Senior Telemaster "short" kit build
 

Author's Note:

I always hate reading build threads that start, but never finish the build. Either the builder gives up, or moves on, or simply forgets to continue updating the thread.

So....

I started this build a long time ago... and finished the airplane tonight. It's after dark, so I'll get completed pictures in the sunlight tomorrow.

But onto the build....

Date: October 3, 2007

Tonight I started building a Senior Telemaster. This is not a full kit as sold on the internet, but a laser cut "short kit" that I bought elsewhere.

There are some differences between this and what the plans dictate. If I can remember, I will point out these differences.

Now, starting with the wings. The first difference. The original plans dictate a 3/8" by 1/2" balsa spars. The modified version has 1/2" by 1/2" spars. To get this dimension, I glued two smaller spars together. First, I didn't have the larger dimension balsa, and second, two pieces glued together is stronger than one single piece of equal dimensions.

While the first two spars were drying, I took the time to separate all the wing parts from the balsa sheets.

When you look at the pile/inventory of parts, you'll probably realize there are a lot of parts there. Indeed, when I ordered the short kit, I actually ordered two. I have enough for two complete airplanes.

Now, for another difference between the my bird and the stock. The wing is designed to be a two-piece wing. The innermost 3 ribs are 1/8" plywood for added strength. They also have holes cut in them in front of the spars to allow a aluminum joiner tube. You will notice rib #3 has that hole near the bottom, rib #2 has it in the middle, and rib #1 has in at the top. This is to allow some dihedral to be built into the wall. Also, all ribs have a 1/2" hole cut in them just behind the spars. This is for servo wires. Finally, possible the largest difference, the full built wing. Notice the rear of the ribs end in a point. This is for 1/16" sheeting to for the top and bottom of the trailing edge. The TE reinforcements are to be spaced in between the ribs to provide extra strength. Finally, rib #1 as a 1/4" hole near the back. This is for an alignment pin. I will probably glue a threaded wood block to one side, and use a nylon screw to help hold the wing halves together. I may also put another alignment/bolt hole in the front of the rib.

Things to figure out: How to provide a mounting point for the CA hinges, once the wing is completed and the aileron is cut away. I will need a band-saw to do a good job cutting the aileron away from the wing.


#1. Plan taped to building board
#2. Wing plan taped down (stack of wing parts in background
#3. Spars glued and clamped up
#4. Trailing edge reinforcements. 1/8" thick. (count 126)
#5. Front Rib sections. 1/4" thick, (count 50)
#6. 3/16" balsa ribs (count 8), 3/16" Trailing edge reinforcments (count 7)
1/8" ply ribs (3 types, 4 each)
#7. 1/8" balsa ribs (count 63), 1/32" ply center rib cover (count 4)

RE: Senior Telemaster
 

Date: October 4, 2007

Not much work today. I made alterations in the spars so I can later add wing struts.

I contacted Mike Freas, who has a STM ARF. And he pointed me to a picture on the internet of his plane. It was a pretty straight on picture. I knew that the wingspan is just under eight feet. So I simply did a little measuring and calculating based on the picture, and determined the strut was attached to the wing at about 18" from the wing center. I didn't like the looks, I thought it was a bit too close, so I arbitrarily said I'd try to put my strut at about 24" inches.

So onto my work. First, I measured from the wing center and found the rib bay just under 24". (picture 1)

I transefered the outside edges of the rib bay to the spars I glued together last night. (picture 2)

I cut a 1/8" deep area out between the lines I made. (picture 3)

Then glued in a 1/8" thick piece of ply. (picture 4) This will be the bottom of the spar, and make a nice hard surface for the strut mount to set against. After I get the ribs in place, I'll add a 1/8" ply between the ribs on the upper side of the spar. Later, I'll drill mount holes, and put blind nuts in place.

Progress is slow right now. I have only a few pieces glued together. So much is small prep work. I should be able to start adding ribs tomorrow.

RE: Senior Telemaster
 

Date: October 6, 2007

Today I went flying. I took the LT40 on it's maiden flight with it's new motor/prop. It flew great! And I even got a good amount of stick time.

But onto this bird. I contacted Lazerworks and they told me the 3/16" rib was to be laminated with a 1/8" rib. This is to be installed where the aileron will be cut. The extra thickness provides area on both the wing and the detached aileron. When I get to that point in the construction, I hopefully will remember to photograph and document it.

On my wing, I plan to use the plywood ribs for the first three ribs. Then, the fourth rib will be the extra thick rib. I plan on sheeting the bottom of the wing between ribs one and two. I also plan on sheeting over ribs one, two, and three on the top. Before I can install the plywood ribs, I need to cut 1/8" off these pieces before I can put them in place.

So I went on to place the 1/8" ribs. I used q-tips to make sure there was glue at every joint, and to wipe access glue away. I hope to use transparent monocoat on this plane, so all my glue work has to be good.

I finished installing all the 1/8" ribs. Now, I can only install the extra thick rib, then I need to stop. I need to cut the plywood ribs for the sheeting. I am planning on buying a band-saw this upcoming pay-day. I can cut the ribs after I have it.


Picture 1: Laminating the 3/16" and 1/8" ribs together.
Picture 2: Laminating the 3/16" and 1/8" ribs together.
Picture 3: The wing plan.
Picture 4: The 1/8" ribs put in place.

RE: Senior Telemaster
 

Date: October 12, 2007

I stopped at the Local Hobby Shop on the way home and bought a few pieces to help in the construction my telemaster. Some spars, a few bell cranks, and some stock I can hopefully shape into the wing leading edge.

I also bought a second building board. I wanted to be able do work on two things at once.

I also stopped and finally bought a bench-top bandsaw. I've been wanting one for a long time. I need to make nice clean cuts to top of ribs R1, R2, and R3. I also need to cut 1/8" off the bottom of R2 and R3.

When I got home, I went to work and formed up the right wing. With the glue drying, I went to work setting up the band saw.

Picture 1: The right wing ribs glued up.
Picture 2: The right wing ribs glued up.
Picture 3: My new toy

RE: Senior Telemaster
 

Date: October 13, 2007

Work today continued on where I left off last night. First, I fired up the bandsaw and cut 1/8" off the tops of the three plywood ribs. I also cut 1/8" off the bottom of ribs #2 and #3.

Next I fashioned a rip fence, an cut a bunch of 1/8" sheet to a length of 3 - 1/8". The ribs are spaces 3" apart, the extra will allow the sheeting to span the entire width over two adjacent ribs. Next I placed them on the wing under the location of ribs 2 and 3. Once these pieces were in place, I proceeded to glue down the ribs. I took special care to make sure both ribs are securely glued and pressed against the sheeting below it.

NOTE: If building a plane with a standard width fuselage, this sheeting is not enough. See posting of January 8th, 2008. The sheeting between rib 2 and 3 is not enough to reach to the fuselage. An extra balsa rib is necessary, and extra sheeting is needed.

Next I need to start making the trailing edge / aileron front edge stock. First, I marked a vertical line on the end of the wing at the aileron joint. I started looking at the ribs more carefully. I found some 3/8" by 1- 1/2" Trailing edge stock matches the angle of the trailing edge perfectly. My plan is to glue strips on the top and bottom of this stock to make it thick enough. Then glue it between the ribs. I also will need some of this stock between ribs #1 and #2 to provide reinforcement for the wing bolts.

I do not have enough of the trailing edge stock to continue with making the trailing edge. So I will wait. But I did continue building. I went ahead and put the upper spars on the right wing. A few rubber bands were needed to hold the spar tight against the rib. But only in a few places. The spars take a long time to glue up. On each joint, I used a q-tip to wipe away access, or to apply extra to area that doesn't have enough glue. The effect, once complete, will be worth the effort.


Picture 1: Mark where cutting of the bottom of the rib needs to stop.
Picture 2: Use Rib #2 to mark the end of the sheeting. Rib #2 is not glued.
Picture 3: The sheeting in place under rib #2 and #3. Right wing.
Picture 4: Mark the location of wing/aileron on the endmost rib.
Picture 5: Transfer the mark to the top of the rib.
Picture 6: Transfer the mark to the inside of the rib reinforcement.
Picture 7: The lower sheeting and ribs #2 and #3 in place, left wing.
Picture 9: The laminated ribs had a small gab between them, a little glue and clamping.
Picture 10: The laminated ribs had a small gab between them, a little glue and clamping.

RE: Senior Telemaster
 

Date: October 15, 2007

Not much work tonight.

First, I am trying to straighten the warped spar stock I have. I posted on RCU on how to do it, and I got advice on using ammonia. So I tried that tonight. First, I built a container. I bought some PVC pipe about 5 feet long, an end cap, and for the other end, one that I could put on a screw cap.

Once built, I mixed a 50/50 ammonia/water dilution and poured into the tube. I inserted the spar and filled until with it completely submerged, the tube was full. Ammonia has a real kick to it. So don't breath! I screwed on the cap, and let it soak for about three hours.

Once the soaking was done, I remove the spar and clamped it to the inside angle of some aluminum angle stock. I clamped it every 3 or 4 inches. In both directions. I stored both the drying stick, and the tube out in the garage. Like I said, it's got a kick.

My other project for the evening was to start gluing up the trailing edge material. I stopped at the LHS tonight and bought a few more sticks of TE stock. My bandsaw is coming in handy. I ripped some 1/8" stock the width of the TE stock and glued it them together. I need to rip another bunch, and glue it on as well, and I'll have the right thickness material. But I have to wait for the glue to dry tonight.

Picture 1: The right wing half, waiting for the TE stock to be added.
Picture 2: The first stage of TE stock glued and clamped.
Picture 3: The left wing half, waiting for the spar to dry straight.

RE: Senior Telemaster
 

Date: October 17, 2007

I got some good work done this evening. I managed to straighten a spar. The ammonia soaking method didn't work. I tried something else. Simply, I plugged in my coating iron and turned it to high heat. I layed the spar on a flat surface so the center bowed up. Then pressed down with the iron. While holding it down with the iron, I lifted the end about a half inch. I needed to bend the wood a little past where I wanted it to be. It took a few minutes, but I got it pretty close. The wing will help hold it to shape once all the glue is dry.

Next I could start gluing the TE/Aileron moulding in place. I had to wait for all the gluing to finish. Look at picture 10. That has a cross section of the moulding. Before I started cutting, I ran the glued stock through the saw to cut a little off the front and rear edges. This merely evened up the edges of all the glued stock. It wasn't necessary, but I think it will look better. The moulding took time. Each piece had to fit. Actually it was pretty easy. I measured the width between ribs and set a fence on the bandsaw to the widest measurement I found. Then I cut a piece, and moved down the wing until I found a place for it to fit. I cut another, if I didn't find a place it would fit, I went back and cut a little off an end. And fit it again. And so on. Once I had pieces fit for all the bays. I set to work and glued them all in place.

I finished the left wing as far as I can take it. I ran out of glued moulding for the right wing half. Top sheeting will need to wait until I have the wing halves joined. Once I have the dihedral set, I can continue on with the wing joiner tube, then I can finish the sheeting.

I still need to cut the leading edge. To do a good job with that, I will need to buy a router and a router table. But that's OK. I've come to learn the right tools are a good investment. The leading edge goes on after the #1 ribs are in place.

Picture 1: Left wing half. Top spar in place. The TE / aileron moulding set in place.
Picture 2: Left wing half. Top spar in place. The TE / aileron moulding set in place.
Picture 3: Left wing half. Top spar in place. The TE / aileron moulding set in place.
Picture 4: The TE / aileron moulding glued in place.
Picture 5: The TE / aileron moulding glued in place.
Picture 6: The TE / aileron moulding glued in place.
Picture 7: The left wing, the front spars glued in.
Picture 8: A block of TE stock set in place where bolt down reinforcement will be needed.
Picture 9: The TE / aileron moulding glued in place.
Picture 10: A cross section of the TE /Aileron moulding.

RE: Senior Telemaster
 

Date: October 18, 2007

Tonight I prepped for joining the wings together. First I needed to put the #1 ribs in place, and at the proper angle to provide the desired dihedral. My first thought was to place both wing halves on a long board, and push them together along with the #1 ribs. My thought was to insert a spacer between the #1 ribs. That way, the parts of the spars that hung over, would hang over the spacer. Once the ribs were in place, and the glue dried, I would remove the spacer, separating the wing halves. Then I'd cut the excess spar material, and I'd have to nicely matched wings.

This proved unworkable. It was difficult manipulating the wing halves and the ribs. So onto plan "B."

This time, I worked with one wing half at a time. I propped the end of the wing with blocks to simulate dihedral. Then it was only a matter of putting the #1 rib in place. Once the rib was in place, I'd check it to be certain it was perpendicular to the work surface and I would have my rib in place. Here, I broke out the CA. I don't like using it, but in this case, it was the best way to glue the rib to the spars.

According to the plans, I should have 3" of dihedral on each wing tip. I think this is a bit much. I used the TLAR (That Looks About Right) method. My blocks were 1-1/2" high, and holding up the fourth rib from the end. The Dihedral should be about 1-3/4" at each wingtip. This should make it fly with some self-correcting behaviour, but not be too stable. It should be able to roll and possibly fly inverted.

I did run into a mistake I made in the building process. On the left wing half, I didn't put the spar far enough to the center. Hence, it didn't fill the cutting in the rib. I will need to fill the area. I was worried I wouldn't have a very strong joint, but I will sheet the top of the center rib area, and I will be installing shear webbing in the first three bays. This should make the wing plenty strong.

Next step, I need to cut the excess spar material flush with the #1 rib. Then install the shear web pieces in the first three rib bays. Then I need to install everything to mount the wing joint tube.

This is a good place to leave it for tonight.

Picture 1: The two #1 ribs with the spacer
Picture 2: The two wing halves set near one another, the center section in between.
Picture 3: The left wing half, the #1 rib glued in place. Notice the top spar isn't long enough.
Picture 4: The right wing half propped up to simulate dihedral.
Picture 5: The right wing half, #1 rib tentatively positioned.
Picture 6: Use a square to make sure the #1 rib is perpendicular to the work surface.
Picture 7: Use a square to make sure the #1 rib is perpendicular to the work surface.

RE: Senior Telemaster
 

Date: October 19, 2007

Tonights work continued prepping the wing halves for joining. First, I cut the extra spar material away. Then I used a flat file to file the last of the access. A little sanding, and that was done. I noticed the front of rib #1 wanted to move a little, so I double checked the glue joints.

To further increase wing strength, I added the dihedral brace pieces. On a one-piece wing, these would be one long piece gluing/joining the two halves together. I will only use them for bracing the first few ribs. One brace in the front and back of the wing.

Next, I worked on the shear webbing. The modified wing call for shear webbing in the first three bays. These will help strengthen the wing as well. I added webbing to the back of the spars. Webbing will also go on the front of the webbing. But I will wait until after I get the joint tube correctly in place.

Finally, it was time for the joining of the wing halves. First, I put blocks under the end of the wings. Under the 4th rib from the end. Next, I connected the #1 ribs with nylon screws and wooden bolts. I must have put the #1 ribs in with more of an angle than I intended. There was still a gap between the #1 ribs. By adding an additional 3/4" blocks, I closed the gap. This will be my wing.

Picture 1: Front dihedral brace in place, right wing.
Picture 2: Rear dihedral brace in place, right wing.
Picture 3: Shear webbing installed, right wing.
Picture 4: Shear webbing installed, right wing.
Picture 5: Shear webbing and dihedral braces installed, left wing.
Picture 6: Shear webbing and dihedral braces installed, left wing.
Picture 7: Adding bolt reinforcements.
Picture 8: The first wing joining.
Picture 9: A small gap between the #1 ribs. The dihedral isn't enough.
Picture 10: A small gap between the #1 ribs. The dihedral isn't enough.
Picture 11: Adding 3/4" blocks under the ribs increased the dihedral, closed the gap.

RE: Senior Telemaster
 

Date: October 20, 2007

With the wings joined and in position, I needed to measure the wing joint tube holes. The top of the hole in rib #1 is 1-5/8" from the work surface. The bottom of the hole in rib #3 is 5/8" from the work surface. These measurements give me the extremes in which the wing joint tube needs to fit. Lazerworks recommends a 7/8" diameter wing tube. A 7/8" diameter tube positioned at the top of the #1 rib, will have its bottom 3/4" from the work surface. In my mind, that is too close, I will have to use a smaller diameter tube.

Now, to test. I will need to test fit a wing joint tube, and see if it will hold the wing in position. My mount system will include a 1/4" plywood between the wing halves. I will need to keep that in mind when when I cut the joint tube.

I think I've done all I can, for now, with the wings joined. I will need to cut the joint tube, as well plywood mounting pieces. I have it in my head, it's hard to put into words.

First I needed to measure the location of the wing joint tube, in relation to the wing spars. The hole is 15/16" wide, and is located 1/8" away from the edge of the spar. My idea is to cut and drill flat pieces of plywood that glue to the sides of ribs #1 - #4. The first three will be 1/8" thick, and the fourth will be 1/4" thick. I cut eight pieces 1-1/4" wide and 3" I measured 5/8" in from one edge, and 1-1/2" from the end. This should put the hole nearly in the center of the hole in the rib. I cut the reinforcements extra long so they will extend above and below the ribs. I will cut off the excess once I have them all glued in place.

I tried a test drilling. And the drill bit is just the right size for the aluminum tube, but not for the paper tube. I need to figure out if I want to forgo the paper tube, or find a larger drill bit.

Picture 1: A look at where the joiner tube needs to go.
Picture 2: Measure to the top of the hole in rib #1. 1-5/8"
Picture 3: Measure to the bottom of the hole in rib #3. 5/8"
Picture 4: Measure to the bottom of rib #4. 5/8"
Picture 5: Measure the width between the inside edges of #4 ribs.
Picture 6: 16 - 1/2"
Picture 7: Just for a comparison, I set my LT40 wing on top of my telemaster wing. Wow!
Picture 8: Measuring the location of the joint tube hole.
Picture 9: A stack of reinforcements, ready to be drilled.
Picture 10: A stack of reinforcements, ready to be drilled.
Picture 11: A test drilling. Big enough for the tube, but not the paper.

RE: Senior Telemaster
 

Date: October 21, 2007

Work tonight consisted mostly of toying with ideas. I am still not sure how to install the wing joiner tube. Or what I should make the tube of. I took a scrap of plywood, drew a circle on each side, and clamped it onto the rib to see how it looks.

I need to buy a 9/16" forstner bit to drill the holes in the rib doublers. Then I can continue.

Picture 1: The rib strengthener clamped into position showing location of joiner tube.
Picture 2: The rib strengthener clamped into position showing location of joiner tube.
Picture 3: The rib strengthener clamped into position showing location of joiner tube.
Picture 4: The strut mount location. 1/8" ply inlaid into bottom of spar.

RE: Senior Telemaster
 

Date: October 23, 2007

Not too much work tonight. I started construction of the fuselage. I started with cutting and glueing the front of the fuselages.

Cutting was simple, I glued two pieces of stock together using 3M's Scotch 77 adhesive. Then I traced the pattern I wanted onto the stock. Then cut the pieces with my bandsaw. Once cut, I pinned the one side to the building board, and glued and pinned the other piece to it. Now I wait for the glue to dry.

Picture 1: Fuselage pieces, cut and ready for gluing.
Picture 2: One set glued.
Picture 3: Second set glued.
Picture 4: Second set glued.

RE: Senior Telemaster
 

Date: November 5, 2007

I finally got a chance to get back to work on this airplane. For the last week I was working on my LT-40. It is my only flight worthy airplane, and I needed to make a few changes before I took it flying Saturday. Those completed I got back to work on this one.

Tonight I hoped to get the wing joiner tube in place. A small snag prevents me, but I'll get that to in a bit.

First I need two pieces of 1/4" ply to simulate the wing center piece. The first will serve as a template for future pieces, specifically the actual wing center piece. The second piece will be a stand-in without the decending hook. This will make putting the wing together easier. I know that probably sounds vague, but hopefully my pictures and words that follow will make things clear.

I got started by tracing the #1 rib onto 1/4" ply. I included the 1/4" joiner bolt holes, as well as the opening for the joiner tube. (See Picture 1)

Next I bolted two pieces together. (See Picture 2 and 3)

Next I drew a line roughly down the center of the joiner tube hole. (See Picture 4)

Then I marked the top, center, and bottom of the hole the joiner tube will sit in. (See Picture 5)

Finally, I drilled a small hole for the center of joiner tube. At this point the template is complete. The three holes drilled into this wood provide the location of all the holes needed for the actual center piece. So one of these two is the template, the other will become the holder for the wing joiner tube while I position all the reinforcements. (See entry for october 20, pictures 9 and 10)

And here is where I had to stop. I had previously tried a 1/2" hole for the joiner tube. It was just the right size for the aluminum tube, but not large enough for the paper tube. I since went out and bought a 9/16" drill bit. I test drilled a piece of scrap, and found this hole to be a bit too large. So I will stop at the store, and see if I can find a 17/32" bit. If I do not, I will forego using a paper enclosure tube, and use the aluminum tube without it.

Picture 1: Trace the #1 rib onto a piece of plywood, including joiner tube hole.
Picture 2: Cut two pieces of 1/4" ply. One to serve as a future template.
Picture 3: Cut two pieces of 1/4" ply. One to serve as a future template.
Picture 4: Draw a center line in the wing joiner hole.
Picture 5: Mark top, center, and bottome of joiner tube hole.
Picture 6: Drill small pilot hole through both pieces.

RE: Senior Telemaster
 

Date: November 6, 2007

Finally, some noticable progress tonight. I stopped at the hardware store, and sure 'nough, they didn't have bit the size I needed. So instead I decided to go without the paper outer tube. This may be better in the long run, the paper won't be there to fray or jam the area for the joiner tube to slide. During wing assembly, I'll have to be careful to be sure I hit the holes properly.

That issue resolved I could continue on. First, I needed to drill a 1/2" hole in the plywood joiner tube reinforcements. I clamped them all together, making sure I had one side flush, I drilled all of them at once. (See Picture 1)

I also drilled a hole in the 1/4" temp center piece. You can see it between the wing halves in the pictures.

Once the reinforcers were drilled it was time for preliminary fitting. I threaded the joiner tube, the temp center section, and all the reinforcement pieces together with the wing halves bolted together. (Pictures 2 - 5)

Next I braced the end of the wings for appropriate dihedral. (Picture 6) If you look back through previous pictures, you'll notice the dihedral is one block higher. The reason for this is to use a block at the center of the wing. This is to provide working clearance for the extra bit of reinforcers and clamps to clear under the wing. (Picture 7 - 8)

Next I wanted the joiner tube to be roughly level. So I measured the distance from the work surface to the bottom of the joiner tube on the each side. (Pictures 9 & 10)

Finally, time to glue. I glued all the reinforcements to the ribs. I even clamped the bottom of the reinforcements. (Picture 11 - 15) Once the glue dries, I will take the wings apart, and cut off the excess reinforcement pieces, then add sheer webbing, and finally sheet the top of the wings.

The wings have a ways to go, but they're getting there. Still on the list, wing tips, top sheeting for the back of the wing, cutting the ailerons away, building the servo mounts, and making and attaching the leading edge. But all of that will have to wait for another day.. or two or three.

Picture 1: Drilling holes in joiner tube reinforcements.
Picture 2: Joiner tube and reinforcements put into position. No glue yet.
Picture 3: Joiner tube and reinforcements put into position. No glue yet.
Picture 4: Joiner tube and reinforcements put into position. No glue yet.
Picture 5: Joiner tube and reinforcements put into position. No glue yet.
Picture 6: Braced for dihedral. Plus one thickness of wood... You'll see why.
Picture 7: Here's why, the center needs clearance under it too.. for now.
Picture 8: Here's why, the center needs clearance under it too.. for now.

RE: Senior Telemaster
 

Date: November 6, 2007

Part 2.

Picture 9: Measure to bottom or joiner tube on left side. 1 - 15/16"
Picture 10: Measure to bottom or joiner tube on right side. 1 - 15/16"<
Picture 11: Glue it all up.. And clamp, clamp, clamp.
Picture 12: And clamp some more.
Picture 13: And a little more.. Just to be sure.
Picture 14: And still more clamps.
Picture 15: Even clamp the bottom of the reinforcement pieces.

RE: Senior Telemaster
 

Date: November 13, 2007

I got a little time to work on my plane tonight. Yardwork needing to be done before snowfall took precedence this weekend.

Not too much work done tonight. I wanted to reinforce the plywood reinforcement pieces. I cut pieces of 1/16" ply to fit in the holes of ribs 1 thru 3. Then drilled a hole in them. The hole I drilled was larger than the 1/2" hole for the joiner tube holes. These fillers weren't for reinforceing the hole, they were to provide extra glue surface area.

The process was pretty straight forward. I cut six pieces, then fit each piece into the rib. I then traced the holes onto the filler pieces. I drilled the holes and glued the filler pieces onto the ribs.

Once the glue dries, I can continue. Next step, the shear webbing, then sheeting the top of the wing.

Picture 1: Filler pieces temporarily in place in wing ribs.
Picture 2: Filler pieces temporarily in place in wing ribs.
Picture 3: Hole location traced onto filler pieces.
Picture 4: Filler pieces glued in place.

RE: Senior Telemaster
 

Date: November 15, 2007

A bit of work completed tonight. My task tonight is to continue with wing building. First, I added 1/16" plywood sheer webbing to the first three bays. It took some time to make sure each web piece fit snuggly against the spars as wells as the joiner tube holders. (Picture 1 and 2)

After the plywood pieces were glued and clamped, the work got easier. The rest of the sheer webbing would be balsa. And all of the pieces will be identical. I set up the bandsaw to cut the correct width, then cut a dozen pieces the appropriate width. Each piece needed a little tweaking to get it to fit. Then I glued and clamped them into place. (Picture 3 and 4)

But I could only do one wing. I ran out of clamps. (sigh)

Next, the same work on the other wing half. On this wing, install paper tubing for servo wires. Build servo mount for aileron servo.

Some additional news. I was looking on the web, and the camera I wish to buy has a new version out. The new version has the capacity to be activated with a servo. So my plan is to build a second servo bay further out on each wing, just past the strut mount. At that point, I can build a blank cover, or a camera mount plate, or even a bomb or smoke mount. I can then switch the plates for whatever I want to do that day. It should be fun! The camera won't be available until December. I'll order a couple as soon as they are available.

Rhetorical Question of the day: Can anyone ever have too many clamps?

Picture 1: Plywood sheer webbing glued and clamped into place.
Picture 2: Plywood sheer webbing glued and clamped into place.
Picture 3: Balsa sheer webbing glued and clamped into bays 4 thru 9.
Picture 4: Balsa sheer webbing glued and clamped into bays 4 thru 9.

RE: Senior Telemaster
 

Date: November 17, 2007

A little change in procedure tonight. I removed the clamps from the right wing section, and found there to be a bit of a warp. The wing tip is about 1/4" high. I plan on removing the last few sheer webbing pieces and regluing. But from now on, I plan to proceed a bit slower, and make sure the wing stays straight while the glue dries.

Last night I glued plywood webbing into the first two bays, and let it dry overnight. (Picture 1.)

Tonight I continued putting webbing into bays 3 thru 6. On top of that, I elevated the wing onto scrap 2x4s so there was clearance for the clamps underneath as well as keeping the wing lying flat. (See pictures 2 and 3.)

A few hours later, I returned to glue webbing into bays 7, 8, and 9. (Pictures 4 and 5.)

I got lucky, I looked at my first wing half, and it turns out a blob of glue was hanging below the spar, when set on a flat surface, it made the end stick up. Once I cleaned that up, the wing had less than 1/8" bend. I'm not going to worry about such a small amount.

Picture 1: Plywood sheer webbing in bay 1 and 2.
Picture 2: Plywood sheer webbing in bay 3, balsa in bay 4, 5, and 6.
Picture 3: Plywood sheer webbing in bay 3, balsa in bay 4, 5, and 6.
Picture 4: Balsa sheer webbing in bays 7, 8, and 9.
Picture 5: Balsa sheer webbing in bays 7, 8, and 9.

RE: Senior Telemaster
 

Date: November 29, 2007

I got a chance to work on the wingtip tonight. Finally. I've been trying to get some patio work done before it gets too cold. But tonight I wanted to work on my plane.

I started with cutting the bottom spars even with the outside edge of the wing rib. A little sanding to make the cut flush. (Picture 1)

Next, to work cutting the wingtip piece. First I extended the base line of the wingtip. (Picture 2)

Third, I finally cut the extra material off the back of the wing. I measured 9 - 1/8" from the back of the wing spar, then I used a piece of angle aluminum to form a straight edge. (Picture 3) Once the straight edge was securely clamped down. I cut through the balsa with a sharp blade. (Picture 4)

With the chord of the wing figured out, I could then mark the end point of the modified wingtip template. (Picture 5)

Once I had the template length marked, I used scotch 77 to glue three pieces of 3/16" balsa together. I glued the paper template on top of the stack. I fired up the bandsaw and made the cut. I used one of the cut pieces to mark the top wing spars for cutting. I put notches in the wingtip for the spars to fit in. Then put it in place. I marked the spars for cutting. (Picture 6, 7 and 8)

With the spars cut, I filed and sanded them down until I got a good fit with the actual wing tip. I used a file to put a bevel on the bottom edge of the wingtip. I want it to fit flush with the bottom of the wing rib. I used masking tape to hold the wingtip in place while I made sure it was shaped properly. (picture 9)

To make sure the wingtip is shaped properly, I put a ruler along the top of the ribs, and extended it out to the wingtip. Where the ruler touched the wingtip, I put a mark. (Picture 10 and 11)

I rejoined the two wingtip pieces, hand drew lines between the dots, and used the bandsaw to cut the excess away. Once that was done, I dry fitted the wingtip, and checked with a ruler again. (Picture 12, 13 and 14)

Finally, I could break out the glue bottle. I glued the wingtip in place, and held it there with masking tape. (Picture 15 and 16)

Enough for one evening. The other wingtip should go more quickly, now that I have all the templates made.

Picture 1: The bottom spars cut and sanded flush with the wing rib.
Picture 2: Extending the bottom line of the wingtip piece.
Picture 3: With the trailing edge of the wing measured, angle aluminum clamped in place.
Picture 4: Using straight edge to cut against.
Picture 5: Marking the modified wingtip template for the endpoint.
Picture 6: Using notched wingtip piece to mark top wing spars for cutting.
Picture 7: Marking the wing spars for cutting.
Picture 8: Marking the wing spars for cutting.

RE: Senior Telemaster
 

Date: November 29, 2007

Part 2.


Picture 9: Spars cut and adjusted, and tape holding it in place.
Picture 10: Using a ruler to mark points along the wing tip to extend the line of the wing.
Picture 11: Using a ruler to mark points along the wing tip to extend the line of the wing.
Picture 12: Once the wingtip is cut, check again.
Picture 13: Once the wingtip is cut, check again, and again.
Picture 14: Once the wingtip is cut, check again, and again, and again.
Picture 15: Wingtip glued in place, held with a bunch more masking tape.
Picture 16: Wingtip glued in place, held with a bunch more masking tape.

RE: Senior Telemaster
 

Date: December 1, 2007

I was right, the right wing is taking less time then the left did. Now that I have all the templates and jigs cut and I have my methods figured out. But I'm ahead of myself. I still have work to do on the left wing.

First, I need to continue with fill block that forms the trailing edge of the wing and leading edge of the aileron. I took the tape off and did I light sanding on the glue joint. (Picture 1)

My first idea was to cut some pieced of the TE/Aileron stock I had made to the shape I wanted. To do this, I clamped the piece against the top wing spare, above the wingtip. (Picture 2)

Next, I put a small square in place, and used the inside edge to "extend" the angle onto my piece. (Picture 3) I proceeded to cut along the line. But it turned out terribly. No pictures, sorry. The cut would have worked if I had remembered I would need a compound angle cut. I needed to cut the angle matching the wingtip, but also from side to side. I reasoned there was no easy way to do this, so I decided on a simpler method.

I took a couple flat pieces, filed an angle edges so they would be flush to the rib. I glued and clamped them in place. (Picture 4 and 5) Once the glue dried, I made a rough cut to get it close. (Picture 6) I pulled out my favorite tool, my file, and filed down the material until it was flush with the rib. A little sanding, and this is done. (Picture 7)

I'm ready start applying some of the top rib I glued and clamped the first piece in place. Once the glue is dry, I'll contine with the top covering on the back of the wing. I also need to put the servo wire tubing before I completely enclose the ribs. (Picture 8)

With the left wing set aside, I continued working on the right wing. I fitted the wingtip just like I did before. Then I glued the rib covering in place. (Picture 9)

Then I glued and taped the wingtip into place. Now to stop, the glue needs to dry. (Picture 10)

After a few hours, I returned to work. Since the right wing was on my work space I started with it. First I removed the clamps, took my file and filed the covering flush with the edge of the ribs. Then a little sanding to smooth the edges. (Pictures 11 and 12)

Like the left wing, I glued and clamped scrap to fill the Trailing Edge/Aileron area behind the wing tip. (Picture 13)

I set the wing aside to dry, then went to work on the left wing. First I filed and sanded the rib covering. (Pictures 14 and 15)

Finally, for the big moment.. adding the top piece for wing. First, I sanded a bit of a bevel along the trailing edge. This is the 1/16" sheeting on the bottom of the wing. I put a bit of an angle on the trailing edge so when the top piece comes down to it, there will be more surface area for contact. Next, I used the angle aluminum as a strait edge to cut a straight edge on the stock. It was warped a bit. A test fitting to be sure. Then it was time to apply the glue. Here's where the slower drying glue really comes in handy. Also handy, a glue brush. I spread glue over all the surfaces and broke out the clamps. (Picture 16) I used the angle aluminum again to provide a straight edge for the rear of the trailing edge. I noticed, when trying to clamp the top and bottom surfaces together, the weight of the clamp would bend balsa. So I added the angle aluminum. The clamp would clamp the two surfaces of balsa, and the aluminum together. (Picture 17)

Definitely enough accomplished for one day. Tomorrow I should be able to put this same piece on the other wing.

Picture 1: Wingtip glued in place.
Picture 2: Beveled piece clamped to spare.
Picture 3: Small square put in place and line drawn.
Picture 4: Second idea. Scraps glued in place.
Picture 5: Second idea. Scraps glued in place.
Picture 6: Excess rough cut away.
Picture 7: File comes in play to file away until flush
Picture 8: A start on center rib covering. Left wing.
Picture 9: A start on center rib covering. Right wing.

RE: Senior Telemaster
 

Date: December 1, 2007

Part 2.

Picture 10: Wingtip glued in place. Right wing.
Picture 11: Right wing, rib covering sanded.
Picture 12: Right wing, rib covering sanded.
Picture 13: Right wing, scraps glued in place TE/Aileron.
Picture 14: Left wing, rib covering sanded.
Picture 15: Left wing, rib covering sanded.
Picture 16: Wing top, glued and clamped.
Picture 17: Wing top, glued and clamped.

RE: Senior Telemaster
 

Date: December 2, 2007

My work started with removing the clamps. Once that was done, I needed to cut away excess from the trailing edge. To do that, I clamped my straight edge and cut along it. (Picture 1 and 2.)

Once the extra was removed, it was time to admire my work. (Picture 3, 4, and 5.)

But alas, it was not all tickity-boo. I found flaws with my work. The clamps had put dents in the sheeting. This would not do. I want to use transparent covering, and any putty would stick out. I thought I'd try gluing balsa dust into the area and hopefull that would blend in.

I collected some sawdust from around my bandsaw, put some glue into a dent, and put on some sawdust. (Picture 6, 7, and 8)

Foolishly, I decided to fill all the dents in such a manner, then clamped the metal down to help flatten the filler. (Picture 9) And I finished for the night waiting for the glue to dry.

Picture 1: The clamps removed. Preparing to cut away excess.
Picture 2: The clamps removed. Preparing to cut away excess.
Picture 3: The wing from the top/front.
Picture 4: The wing from the top/front.
Picture 5: The wing from the top/front.
Picture 6: Collected saw dust.
Picture 7: Glue in a couple dents.
Picture 8: Dents filled with dust/glue.
Picture 9: Flat metal used to flatten filler.

RE: Senior Telemaster
 

Date: December 3, 2007

Not much work tonight. I removed the clamps to inspect how the filler worked. (Picture 1)

The filler did it's work, but it's very hard to sand. I spent over an hour filing and sanding on a few areas near the wingtip, and it was still bumpy. This would not do. (Picture 2)

Picture 1: Filler dried. It's very hard to sand.
Picture 2: After much sanding, still not done with a small area.

RE: Senior Telemaster
 

Date: December 5, 2007

I thought I'd take a break from the sheeting edge work and install the servo tube wire. I am planning on installing two servo bays in each wing. The inner bay will be used for the aileron, and the outer bay will be used for whatever I want. I use a blank piece, or I can use it for a camera mount, or even use a small servo for a bomb drop. Hence the tubing. I may never use it, but it's easier to put it in now while building. (Picture 1)

To ensure a nice straight cut, I used the side of a rib to guide the razor saw. This cut the tube nice and square. (Picture 2)

I ended the inner most tube just inside the #2 rib. This will open up into the fuselage. (Picture 3)

In this picture you can see the two tubes. Regretably you can see the filler spots as well. (Picture 4)

My first attempt to fix this problem was to replace the lower inch or so of the trailing edge. So I went to work and cut the lower from the sheeting. (Picture 5, 6, and 7.)

Picture 1: Inserting servo wire tube.
Picture 2: Using rib to get a nice straight cut.
Picture 3: Tube ending inside rib #2.
Picture 4: Two tubes so wing can have two servo bays.
Picture 5: Cutting bottom inch or so off sheeting.
Picture 6: Cutting bottom inch or so off sheeting.
Picture 7: Cutting bottom inch or so off sheeting.