reddogracing

i have a after shock and has a new dynamite .28 ....the blue head version. M28 and i can get it to fire but as soon as i give it gas it dies. If its there running at high idle from the transmitter and i hit the brake it dies almost like if the truck stops rolling it stops the motor. So yeah im not sure what the heck is going on.

1QwkSport2.5r

I'm guessing the idle mixture on the carburetor is too rich. Lean the idle mixture needle (in the end of the carb slide) 1/4 turn and try restarting. Keep the glow driver on it until you can get it to throttle up without quitting. Since its a new engine, keep it a little bit rich (not slobbery spewing oil from the exhaust rich) and run it.

reddogracing

ive also just noticed i have no brakes...all tje parts seem to be there and servo arm is swinging and its adj as far as it can go...any ideas lol. I hate buying used haha

1QwkSport2.5r

remove the servo horn from the throttle/brake servo, center the servo with the radio, and reinstall the throttle/brake control horn on the servo so that it (the servo) will hold the carb at idle when in the neutral/center position. I also suggest having the linkage rod going to the brake mechanism be connected to the outermost hole in the servo horn. If at this point the throttle is held open, adjustments to the linkage rod itself needs to be made. Do not use the transmitter to control your idle speed.

Chances are that if you readjust the throttle/brake linkage to be in the correct orientation, you should be able to get the idle speed set and get some run time on the engine to break it in. Every engine needs a slightly different linkage configuration so adjusting the linkages for a new engine is a must.

reddogracing

1QwkSport2.5r thanks alot. That worked perfect moving it out to the other hole. I think i messed up the same msg im writting now some how i hit report not reply but when admin sees it im sure theyll no it was a mistake but yeah almost all the bugs r worked out. Ive got brakes my truck will idle now ....he had the idle 100% closed but all is good short of i got the motor set to factory but it will run for 30 to 60 sec then die after that it will fire a few times then its done. Almost like a fuel rest, or maybe just my needle settings. When it runs its got great throttle till it dies. I may have it to lean even at break in...it dont help its 20 degrees outside

1QwkSport2.5r

Its important to get the engine hot to break in properly. Wrap some aluminum foil around the head and run it. You will probably have to lean the idle mixture a little to get it to idle, although it might take a tank or two just as it is to get a good idle. I tend not to want to break engines in unless its over 40°F outside. The only exception are ringed engines. Those dont really care what the temp is..

Get some run time on the engine. That engine will break in real nicely. Readjust the idle speed when needed, and after 8-10 tanks of fuel you can lean it down for better power.

reddogracing

this may sound stupid but when i pull the fuel line from tank to exhaust should i be able to blow air though it? Seems like on my traxxas motors i can but on thos one it feel lile its restricted blowing on the tube that run to the exhaust.tje motor just acts like it runs off the primed fuel then when its gone it dont wanna run anymore. But tank and lines ar mew and clear

1QwkSport2.5r

Pull the pressure line off both the tank and exhaust and blow through it. If no air goes through, replace that section of tubing.

reddogracing

yeah the stupid pipe had so much crap inside it,it blocked the pressure zirt coming off the pipe. Got pretty much everythong ironed out on it but trying to swap wheels and tires and the idiot who put the wheels on has the rf on so tight that my socket is starting to click as i have to apply so much pressure it making the socket spin. Jesus ill think long and hard before buying another used truckzilla made up of a scrap yard of parts.

Muskokarc

Ah the fun of used equipment. I went through a good list of replacements on a LST I had purchased used two years ago; from a new main plate to new stearing links. I enjoy the build and problem solving so was lots of fun getting the beast up and running. Unfortunately had to sell it to pay some bills this past fall, even manged to get a new RC boat out of the deal. Would defiantly get another used one may do an electric conversion on the next one.

1QwkSport2.5r

I've bought a few used cars in the last 5ish years. The first LST2 and parts lot was a great bargain... 2 trucks for the price of one. Then the basket case jato and nitro rustler for $40. Wrecked the rustler on a 2.4GHz runaway. Failsafe = no worky. Still working to rebuild it... I love my 3.3 powered rustler.

reddogracing

now my big issue is i need to swap tires and wheels and the rf is sized on there. It flat out wont budge. Ive had it sitting for about a week and i keep spraying pd blaster is it which is the best stuff i know of when it comes to bad nuts and bolts but i can put so much pai on it the socket will just round. I still have good bite on it right now but trying to find a 8point socket thats 1/4 inch drive cuz the wheel is so deep i cant use a 3/8 drive but im thinking either drill it out or leave it be
The tires and wheels are brand new but just wanted to use something different that and when i break something on it ill have to get that wheel off at some point. This sucks

1QwkSport2.5r

Got one of these? If not, you need one. Your aftershock has different axle studs than my LST2's do, but you will likely not get the nut off but snap it off. Someone probably used red loctite on it. If the wheels are not in the "I care about" pile, use a small pencil torch and heat the nut/axle stud up. Thats the only way to break red loctite loose.
http://losi.com/Products/Features.aspx?ProdId=LOSB4603


I have many suspension and axle parts for an Aftershock in case you need them.

BTW: You do know that one side of the truck has Right Hand (RH) nuts and the other side is Left Hand (LH) nuts? Righty Tighty Lefty Loosey on one side, opposite on the other.

reddogracing

yeah i got that tool and ive tried nut drivers and 8mm sockets 5/16 sockets ive tried 6 point and 12 point i need a 8 point but cant find one in a 1/4 inch drive. I thoughy about the pencil tourch but afraid ill melt the wheel. Id post a pic but im doing this from my phone and i cant get it to work. Ill upload the pic in my gallery and thats the only thing i can do from mobile

1QwkSport2.5r

You need a 6 point socket, not a 8 or 12. Its a six pointed nut. Using a 1/4" ratchet, NOT nut driver, heat the socket up as hot as you can, then stick it on the nut and leave set for a minute or so. Then try to remove the nut. IIRC, the 'drivers side' (left) is regular right-hand nuts. The right, or passenger side, should be counterclockwise. You said the RF was the one stuck... did you get the RR off?

reddogracing

yeah got all three off. Ive been using a rachet and i get enough tourqe to spin the socket. If i could find an 8 point id have less rounding. Im a auto mechanic by trade and 8 point is what i use when i have a rounded or rounding nut but cant find one small enough but when i get home i will try heating up a socket and let it sit to see if that helps

1QwkSport2.5r

You must be referring to pounding a smaller socket on a rounded nut. In hindsight, the nut should not round off if using a 6 point socket in the beginning. If it doesnt come loose with that, then you have other problems..

Heat the socket up as hot as you can, and stick it on the nut to heat the nut. With a little luck, it will come loose. If the nut is completely rounded off and you cant get it off by using the above method, you're better off sacrificing the wheel and hit the axle stud directly with the torch.

sparky 25

Are you aware that the aftershock has got left handed threaded axles on one side of the truck?

Perhaps this is the reason the wheel nuts won't come off.

1QwkSport2.5r

Already covered this. He got 3 of 4 wheel nuts off, last one is probably locktited.