I just recently did a complete tear down and rebuild with all new plastics, thread locked screws, new parts . A couple problems I came across are the tie rod ends rubbing and occassionally getting stuck on the c-hubs . If I turn my steering to fast or all the to the right it gets stuck on the c-hub . I’ve put the tie rods spacing to factory length but that’s makes it even worse, undriveable . I have the tierods set so the wheels are as straight as possible now but continue having the same issue. I did go down to a single steering servo but I put it in a protek 150t. That thing is fast, moves the wheels with ease. Could using a single servo be the reason? is it allowing to much play in the steering, and over turning? That servo was expensive I would like to be 100% sure before buying another one. Iv read people switching to a single servo and not having any issues . It’s getting almost too frustrating to continue on with this lst. When I first got it it was totaled chassis snapped in half, a few broken pieces, and completely rusted over. I decided to see if I could rebuild it and get it running again. Its my first nitro fueled rc iv ever owner but I’m always up for a challenge. From the visual side of it, it’s night and day, a lot of new parts, looks brand new but on the mechanical side of it I have not been able to run it more than a handful of times since I’ve acquired it about 3-4 months ago. I work on it almost everyday, it’s really frustrating not being able to use something you put so much time and energy into. It has an axial .32 spec 1 in it. I’ve had to replace a stripped head button for a turbo head button, being the only one I could find, And I’ve had to custom Fab 2 new head shims, can’t find a replacement set anywhere. The old ones were really bad. Before with the stripped head button and the bad head shims I had it running, it was leaking nitro all over the place but it ran never over heated, a nightmare to clean after the each time I ran it tho. now with the new head button and new shims. I can’t get it to even turn over . I think part of it has something to do with the type of turbo plug I’m using. I started with a cold plug it would turn over occassionally but couldn’t keep it running. I tried a hot plug, only one they had at my local hobby shop and no chance of turning over at all . Im running Byron’s race 2500 25/11. If anyone can help me out with any of these problems I would be more than grateful. Thx
i would post some pics but it’s not allowing me too

So I figured out what the problem was with my stock arms. I Was using the pivot balls with threaded ends and It was stripping out the connector point on the spindle causing my arm to be loose and getting caught up on the carrier so I Used a regular pivot ball and put a long screw through it With a nut on the end Works perfect.
so what I figured out so far that’s going on with the engine first the one-way bearing is starting to wear out it’s slipping I take it out pull the pin clean it with WD-40 put the pin back in even scraped it up A little bit with a fine grit it’ll work for a short time and then it’ll start slipping again. Super frustrating and I can’t find a replacement anywhere. I also noticed that the engine is not pulling any fuel to the carB. I checked all my gaskets all my springs are attached Not sure What’s going on with that my high speed needle I rich in to get the gas flowing along with the low-speed need all my idle speed screws set so I have a 1 mm gap In my carb opening and I’m running a CT 07 nova Rossi turbo cold plug. I think I’m just gonna have to pull the trigger on a new engine. I can tell there’s not much compression there’s some but it’s obvious it’s time for a new one . Im getting a lot of recommendations for the nova Rossi 28-8. I can’t find a roto start Version only bump start and pull start so I’m not too sure which direction to go now . Any advice or input would be greatly appreciated thanks a lot .