smashn

2d i have been anxiously awaiting your feild report on the clutch set up!!! I have done some reading on that setup i think in extreme rc they did a review got a big thumbs up ! I just was wandering if u got ouot to the track and got some video!!!

2DMaxLST!!

I am approaching the 1.5 gallon mark. At 1 gallon I toook it apart and replaced two of the four Rulon wiht Carbon. I got this idea from a awsome setup link that someone posted here. When I come back to edit out all of my spelling errors I wil post it here. I left the gear cover off and went to a parking lot figuring I would have to dial it in. It was spot on and I have not adjusted it since. All my video in the extreme off road area was taken with this setup. I have been very happy with it but I will start to become impressed when I make it to at least three gallons. Personally I've never had a stock clutch on a Tmaxx last as long as the stock one on the LST. I've had 3 shoe aluminum clutchs on my Tmaxx go bad at less than a gallon.

I did not go into enough detail when I first installed it. I did dremel my chassis plate slightly and more than I should have. I was impressed with the stock mess so the whole time I have owned the LST I have never removed both motor mounts at the same time. When I remove the engine I always remove it from the motor mounts leaving the stock mess intact. When I broke a Motor to Chassis brace while running Tmaxx size wheels I only removed the single motor mount neccesary and maintained my stock mess. (I'm a little weird that way).

I had ordered a bag of shims (LOSA6356) really on accident. We you first get a LST and start using it all you want to do is buy stuff for it, at least I did. I knew that I had needed to shim stuff before and they were cheap so I added them to my toolbox. I didn't read the setup sheet or even the instructions so I started with the heaviest spring, they include three, and I cranked down the adjustment nut pretty tight. I through on clutch bell and the spur gears and it would not engage until almost full throttle and it would throw my LST on it's lid as soon as it engaged. I keep turning out the adjustment nut and basically making it engage earlier (at least 8 or 10 times) but I started getting worried when I got near the end of the nuts adjustment. That's when I decided to find the instructions and realized that I needed to put on the lightest spring. I was able to get it working in three adjustmets after that. When I new where the adjustment nut needed to be, I removed it and put on a light coat of blue locktite from a stick and put it back on. Then as I tightened the clutchbell on I noticed it was getting a little tight and used some shims. I also have noticed that you do not have to tighten the nut down that hold the clutchbell as much as you would think. I use the blue locktite and tighten it down to where the cluthbell rubs the face of the clutch slightly and then back off till the clutchbell moves freely.

I took thses pictures just now.

Here is a picture and it is terrible. but you can see the clutch and the alum gear cover from ebay, it's up there with alum diff housings as a first upgrade.



I'm well over three gallons with these gears........



Here my gears are again. I really like the way they look!!!


It is so easy to take of the spurs. I remove the 1/4 in nut and reach behind the slipper with my fingers and pull the whole spur set/slipper clutch off togeather. When you do this 12 or 15 times in one day you get good at it.



You can see my clutchbell has rubbed the face of the clutch some. I know it was doing it during my initial setup because I was just slapping the clutchbell on with out shimming because I knew it would be coming off again.



I temp the clutchbell sometimes just for my own curiousity and I have only seen it at about 125 which really does not seem believable. I do know that the engament of it is very solid. I have backed off the slipper a bit because of it. Overall I am very happy with it. I ordered mine with Rulon and one a set of Teflon., after reading the setup sheet I realized that you could mix shoes to add another level of tunibility and that you get the most grab with Rulon and the longest life with carbon. That is why I switched to two Rulon and two Carbon shoes.


I still have the stock clutch for a backup and there was nothing wrong with it when I replaced it. When I first saw this clutch almost a year ago I knew if I every had a big block I wanted to give it a try. I'm very happy with this clutch so far.


I forgot to show that I used a dremel (more than I needed) to ensure good clearance.
This is a highres picture...

smashn

Thank you for the thourough reply. I think i will give it a shot b4 spring shows up!

XrayRacer

I am having the same problem with that pressure plate contacting the inside of the clutch bell. 6 losi shims and it still hits the bell! Any more shims and my spur gear will be against the bell and from what I can see there are no adjustments to move the whole engine back. I am using the gold (light) spring adjusted flush with the clutch nut. I was told by Werks (they and 2dmaxx have been a great help!) to use the associated kingpin shims #8425 at the end of the crank so you can tighten that screw properly. Mine would not stay tight with just blue locktite. I have those shims on order and I'll let you all know how they work out.

Everyone that installs this clutch needs to consider that the pressure plate moves outward when it spins up so be sure there is room in the bell for it to do so. Although I am not convinced yet that there is enough room in the LST bell for this clutch.

captanabolic

Anyone else use the GPM slider clutch besides me?

2DMaxLST!!

I would like to see some pictures of that setup.

2DMaxLST!!

LSTCrAzY: If you can give me the most precise measurment you can from the tip of the adjustment nut to the end of the shaft and I will compare it to mine. When I install the clutchbell and crank down the nut tight the bell will bind a bit till I back off a little. I can spin the clutchbell freely after I do this. I'm going to pay careful attention to the rubbing of the face and the clutchbell for the next few tanks.



I hope I am helping here!!

XrayRacer

I will measure that this evening. I am more interested in the distance from the back side of the shoes to the maximum the pressure plate can move outward (shown in green here in your photo). The bell has to have at least that much room inside.

motorpsycho502

I have one of those coming, (along with a .30 when they are available) thanx for the setup info. I ordered carbon shoes at werks recommendation

smashn

Hmmmm is there a aftermarket clutchbell to remedy this problem?? One whould think that werks would have a bell to fit the clucth!!! I am still planning on gettin this set up tho...

XrayRacer

I measured about 11mm from the tip of the clutch nut to the end of the crank before any shims. I am going to try again with 8 losi shims under the bell and with kingpin shims at the end of the crank. Werks said they are going to get hold of an LST and try themselves.

The pressure plate will move over the adjusting nut when it opens up and with the bell just covering the shoes, it barely reaches past the adjusting nut.

2DMaxLST!!

Here is the bolt that holds the bell does yours look like this.





I mean without all of the locktite residue.

XrayRacer

Yup except cleaner and without that black spacer thingy.

2DMaxLST!!

Is that a teflon shoe??

XrayRacer

Yea... I'm mixing teflon and carbon shoes.

XrayRacer

This clutch cannot be shimmed enough to avoid contacting the inside of the LST bell housing when it engages. If anyone is interested in my Werks clutch with a full set of teflon and carbon shoes and damaged pressure plate, msg me.

motorpsycho502

LST Crazy, have you tried removing some of the material from the face of the pressure plate, I am not sure how much as I have not installed mine. I bet the real problem is that the I.D. of the bell is too large, causing the pressure plate to move out further than they intend it to.

XrayRacer

There was plenty of material removed from the pressure the last time I shimmed it to the max and tried again. I think you're correct about the diameter of the bell being the primary problem with this clutch on the LST. I was thinking it was too shallow as well.

Great clutch otherwise. Maybe we'll see a different bell housing come out down the road

4wheelin

My Ofna aluminum are doing fine using the black springs provided....they also give a silver set w/the shoes..

BLKHWK

TTT

BLKHWK

Any new news on this? Was there ever any more info reported from Werks on this?

2DMaxLST!!

I'm finishing up my fourth gallon on this clutch with my first set of shoes. I'm pretty happy. I've never contacted Werks about it.

e-normus-1

Which set-up for shoes is best: rulon/carbon, carbon/teflon or teflon/rulon?

dschaening

Which Werks Part number are you using. There are a few different ones out there, and the one Pine ordered is different and not cheap on ebay like the others.

2DMaxLST!!

I use two Rulon (best grab) and two Carbon (long life). What is cool is that you get the Clutch with Rulon and then buy a extra set of Carbon and you end up with two complete sets of shoes. With the life I am getting out of them I should not have to buy anymore clutch stuff for a long time.