Eracer76

Some of you may know that a while back I started a thread about steering, upgrading the servos, bell cranks and so on were talked about.

So.......I bought the Dynamite bell cranks to upgrade my steering and after some use, I bent/bowed the Dynamite connecting rod [:@]
It was when I took it apart to fix it, when I found this "problem" with the tie-rod ends hitting the diffs and I thought, WOW, I found a good mod that I can do that will give the truck a tighter turning radius

To see for yourself,
If you look at the steering bell cranks & tie-rod area on a stock truck, you will see that when fully turned, the tie-rod ends will hit the diff housing, limiting your turning ability. You might also see that the spindle and carrier can actually turn more if it wasnt for the tie-rods hitting the diffs.

So, I made my own bell crank connecting rod/plate out of aluminum flat stock that was longer then the Dynamite and stock length connecting rods.
All I had to do was adjust my tie-rods to pull the wheels back into alignment and what do you know, it turned MUCH sharper!
I made it just the right length so when fully turned, the spindle arms just touch the carriers and thats as far as the truck will ever turn.

Anyway, after one night of racing, I bent/bowed this connecting rod just like the Dynamite one, and the bolt holes that connect it to the bell cranks were getting elongated, making the steering sloppy again [] but it still turned good.

I then put back the "fixed" Dynamite one until I could come up with something else that would last, stay tight and not get sloppy via the elongated holes.

So....I also found a great deal on some Hitec HS-5945MG digital high torque servos, used for $100 for both!
http://www.servocity.com/html/hs-594...al_torque.html

As I replace the servos, I figured I give my mod another try.
I made the same length connecting rod as before, but this time I made it out of stainless steel!
Now it has lasted for 1/2 gallon and still working great, no bending/bowing or elongated holes, and turns nice and sharp!
The addition of these servos also made it much stronger and faster turning. Its like whole different truck now, it took me about 1 tank to get used to the new feel at the track!

So........enough of the talk......here are some pics!

aahwhatever

Nice mod!

Be willing to make a few more to sell??? hehe

I am curious....what ti-rods are you using?

Jonathan

ringneck

finaly a steering mod. ive been waiting for someone to figure it out. it looks like the home made rod you made kinda looks like a chassis hinge pin brace. thats what i thought you used at first. how long is the new rod you made?

worldsfastessupra

My Feedback: (9)

Where can I find the Blue alum. steering arms and alum. hinge pin holder? Like the ones in the pic?

Eracer76

Well, it took me some time to make that one, cutting, grinding, drilling the wholes and so on. Its not super easy, or I would make some and sell them for a reasonable price, but........it wouldnt be worth it.
Now if I had some kind of CNC machine, then it would be a different story

That, and you have to have the Dynamite bell cranks for this to work, because the bolts that hold my custom connecting rod/plate to the bell cranks are threaded into the bell cranks, with a nylon lock nut on the back side tightened down to keep the bolt from being too tight, or too loose. So with the bolt threaded into the bell crank, the nut acts like a jam nut to keep the bolt in position.

If it were just the stock bell cranks drilled out to accept a bolt, there would be no way to keep the bolt in the perfect position, not too loose, and not too tight, so they can pivot freely.
I hope you understand what I mean.

Im using the New Era tie-rods, they are nice, but now with my mod, I have them turned in as far as they will go as you can see.

There is usually a gap between the aluminum tie-rod and the plastic ends for adjustment, the rods have threaded studs that stick out for the plastic end to screw on.

The stock ones or Lunsfords probably wouldnt have that problem, but with mine turned in as far as they will go, my wheels are aligned perfectly straight

Eracer76

The stock connecting rod is 2 1/2"
My new connecting rod/plate is 2 3/4" center to center on the holes, so its a 1/4" longer then stock.
This means you would need to turn in the tie-rods an 1/8" per side to make the wheels straight again, then just adjust the servo savers and you'll have sharper turning truck

aahwhatever

it would be nice if new era or another aftermarket company would make a mod like this.......Maybe you should email your idea to them and they can incorperate it!

Wishful thinking at least. [8D]

Jonathan

Eracer76

Yeah, you would think someone would have seen this and made the connecting rod/plate longer.
I cant believe Losi just let the truck go out the door with the diff acting as a steering stopper.
If the EPA isnt adjusted just right, you could actually see the diff move alittle when the tie-rods hit it.

dschaening

What about finding a hinge pin or turnbuckle from another vehicle that is the right size? I know there are some guys out here who know all the sizes and weights.

MAD6MAC

I will give them a shot later this week I can run 50 of them in about 3 hours CNC'd draglinks are coming!

PM me

MAD6MAC

how thick of stock are you using.

Generalg

MAD6MAC, let me know when you have made some links. I will be the first to buy them.

MadRCPilot77

Same here - I'll gladly pay 5 bucks for one!

dschaening

I am in for that price as well. Let us know.

Monster T

Ram

you said that you could not get full turning with the dynamite draglink. I checked mine today and I get full turning both ways. The spindle just touchs the axle carrier. If you make the drag link 1/4" longer then bring in each wheel an 1/8" don't you still have the same amount of travel? I was just wondering.

Eracer76

Are you sure? Thats strange.
My spindles arm that the tie-rod attaches to, will not lay flat against the side of the carrier with the stock tie-bar or the Dynamite one.
The other end of the tie-rods were hitting on the diff housing. Maybe the aluminum diff housings are thicker, but I dont remember.

When I put in my newly made tie-bar, it spreads the tie-rod ends apart farther, so they dont hit the diff, which allowed my spindles to turn farther and touch the carriers.

Eracer76

Im using 1/8" stainless steal stock now with good results.
I tried using cheap aluminum stock from my local hardware store, and the bolt holes got elongated pretty quick, which made the steering sloppy.

Monster T

I guess I don't know what I am talking about. I took mine apart and it does run up against the diff case. It has about an 1/8" on each side before it hits the carriers. I can move it by hand and make it touch but not with the radio even when I change the epa. sign me up for one of the ones that you are making mad.

Eracer76

Cool, so its not just mine
It was just hard to explain it so that people knew what I was talking about.
I guess its just one of those "You have to see for yourself kind of thing"

MadRCPilot77

The steering drag link only really hits the diff carrier only when the shocks are at full extension - if you compress the suspension a bit the rod ends have enough room to move without binding.... no clue why, but I never noticed the problem until I tore mine down for the Carbon Fiber/Hard Anodized treatment.... when I was putting it back together I notced the niding, but compressing the suspension made it go away.

irobotix

I have to vouch for this mod - why you ask? I bought the truck from RAMSAVAGE....this thing HANDLES!!!!
I am selling because I am going to focus on buggy racing, but the little time I had this LST - it handles better than my buggy!!!

benifur

My Feedback: (4)

Todd@bluegrasshobbie has been selling SS drag links for the allum. bell cranks for awhile they come in 3 sizes stock, 3/16ths over and 1/4 over (I think thats rite anyway 3 sizes)