BioRev

Ok, I've had my AfterShock for quite a bit and had nothing but trouble getting that dam engine to work properly, It does, but i had to basicly rebuild the dam M26SS from scratch. So, to save me trouble of trying to tune it again, also my throttle servo has just about had it and doesn't bother to move all the way. So, what is the best in store engine i can get?

twomanytoys

You want it for bashing with good top speed? The Axail .28 is a great bashing engine. It has tons of torque. Not sure what yuo mean by instore. You mean something your hobby shop carries or something like what tower or Amain carries. The Sportwerks.26v2 is great. Same as the mach 427 but with better and larger carb.. How much you looking to spend.

BioRev

Yea, I want nothing off the internet ( Bad experiances ), I want it for good speed and lots of torque. I'm willing to spend no more then 300 bucks on a engine.

Sugafree

LRP Spec 3

IL2mSturmovik

Agreed

BioRev

Ok, i atleast know what to look for next time i stop by the hobbie store, Thanks, Now for a good waterproof servo for throttle and brake

twomanytoys

LRp Spec3 or Picco p3 for all out power.

[email protected]

lrp

HerrSavage

LRP!!..

dominic magri

i got the lrp z.28r spec3 and have been super happy. its fast, strong, and very easy to manage. im not sure about your lhs, but the one near me doesnt really cary many things, but they are more than willing to order it which usually takes like 2-3 days. i got mine for like 160. so ask if they can order it for you.

nicotram

LRP all the way.

2DMaxLST!!

Teal Headed Mach427.

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I have the LRP and it is a power house. Now the mach is a great engine and only a tad slower then the lrp so I was looking at this http://www.dynamiterc.com/Products/D...rodID=DYNP5232 so it's bigger then the mach and same design and all this must be a good engine? i was thinking of this engine and put the mach in my savage but IDK

2DMaxLST!!

The LRP Spec III would be better than the DPS.

The LRP has some mild port work done to it.

heartofmadnes

And if you do go get a new motor, you can now take apart your M26ss and mod it.. When done right the motor runs like a raped ape. I have picks of a job I did on mine if you need them.

BioRev

Ok, thanks for all the help, But i think i'll just keep the M26 for spare parts, I'm done with that egnine, I tryed to get it started this morning and i couldn't even get the fuel into the carb, I'd prim it, Nothing, I'd plug the exhuast and turn it over, The fuel would move thro the line but as soon as i unpluged the muffler the gas would shoot back into the tank. So i don't even wanna bother. And shure, i don't mind pics of the job you did, Maybe it will give me an idea of what your talknig about.

HerrSavage

2D, are you regularly running a Mach for racing now, INSTEAD of a Spec 3?? How would you compare the two(teal Mach)?

Secondly, and a bit off-topic, have you run the teal Mach in your truggy? Would it be a viable race engine for a truggy?

heartofmadnes

BIO,

I had that issue once before..Easy fix unplug the fuel line from the tank..don't ignite the glow plug or anything..spray wd down the line into the carb with it wide open...It will blow out any garbage in there...crank it over a few times, again dont ignite the plug but flood the engine, then dump out excess...After that try to fire it up...BTW check for air leaks anywhere.

BioRev

Ok, so spray wd40? or just wd down the carb with it open all the way, So do you want me to drain all the fuel out of the tank befor i do that?

2DMaxLST!!

I think in the end I will be faster with the Mach427, more consistent. I run a bumpstart Mach427 in my Muggy and it worked out well!! It would not be my first choice as far as fuel mileage but it has enough power and topend.

Big-Bird-VA

I've got a Picco P3 coming to go in LST2 I'm building. About the last thing I need to get it going. Have a 427 in another one and it does well for bashing.

heartofmadnes

Your gonna unplug the line from the fuel tank, so I did not drain my tank, spray it through the fuel line with the line still connected to the carb, you can even use gum out. Have the carb wide open so it can blow any junk(even old fuel out of there. I was just as frustrated as you. The fuel would go all the way to the carb when I had my finger plugging the exhaust, but as soon as I let my finger off the fuel would go right back to the tank. I actually had old fuel clogging the line.

BioRev

Well maybe thats the problem, Thanks for the tip.

NitroDemon18

Yep, I agree.

BioRev

Hey, thanks for the great tip, I've sprayed out the intire carb and its alot smoother, I also relined the fuel filter behind the shock tower like many said. Now i found out its mostly the poor compresion my fuel tank is getting. When i blow into the tank and pinch the line with my fingers the engine springs to life and idles fine ( Factory Settings ) When i put the line back on the muffler and then let go the engine stutters and dies. So, how can i Fix this compression problem?