Ripping up my diffs
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Ripping up my diffs
I dont know if anyone else has had this problem, but here it goes... In the last 3 weeks i have ripped up 2 rear diffs, and i have only ran my truck 3 times. I am running a modded Sportwerks .26 v2 that has some insane power but with the diffs shimmed properly and the slipper set at 1 1/4 turn out i dont know that could be happening. This is really annoying me and if i cant get this truck to be more reliable i might have to sell it
#2
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RE: Ripping up my diffs
Be ready for people to post that the problem is you. I had the same problem with a Losi XXL and all I got was criticism on how I was running my truck. Hope you can figure it out. For me I now that when I ran it in four wheel drive I would blow the rear diff. When I removed the rear diff the first time to fix it I put the front one in the rear and ran it in two wheel drive and it was fine. When I rebuilt the diff and put it back in the front I blew the rear again. So again I took out the rear diff a second time and replaced it with the one in the front. I didn't replace the front diff and I've ran 2 gallons through my truck in rear wheel drive and I've had no problems with my diff's since. Figure that one out. Others responded with the cause being the tires ballooning in the front but not the rear because of the power and down force on the rear tires. Good luck to you though!
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RE: Ripping up my diffs
try this http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ferential-Case have you inspected to see if the pins are eating into the case ...this will fix that problem
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RE: Ripping up my diffs
i might try ordering that part but for now i think im just going to try rear wheel drive. i have a diff from an xxl on order which will be here next week so im going to use that when i get it. the only thing im worried about is not having as much in air control with rear wheel drive only...
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RE: Ripping up my diffs
ORIGINAL: full maxx
try this http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ferential-Case have you inspected to see if the pins are eating into the case ...this will fix that problem
try this http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ferential-Case have you inspected to see if the pins are eating into the case ...this will fix that problem
This.
I had the same problems on my LST2. The housing would give way where the pins sit and that throws the mesh completely out of whack. This would happen as often as just one 5 min qualifier. I ended up buying some aluminum housings, but they never sealed perfectly so when the HD ones came out I jumped on them. They are perfect, perfect, perfect. I almost forget about my difs now.
#8
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RE: Ripping up my diffs
ORIGINAL: bigairlife
The only thing im worried about is not having as much in air control with rear wheel drive only...
The only thing im worried about is not having as much in air control with rear wheel drive only...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rhFpmd4IbOQ
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e2Z2i...eature=channel
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xm6QA7yVB_8
#9
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RE: Ripping up my diffs
ur trucks looking great! Glad to see that even on the loose dirt its still pulling wheelies with rwd only. I might just have to try that out
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RE: Ripping up my diffs
I had the same thing happen on my diffs, HD Diff Cups are a much stronger design. The metal inserts disperse the stress from the pins much better. http://www.overdriverc.com/proddetail.php?prod=LOSB3528
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RE: Ripping up my diffs
You shouldn't be stripping LST diffs under ANY circumstances. Every LST owner on this forum has told me that they don't break, so I don't know what the problem is???????????
Maybe you should try using Savage diffs. They use aluminum cases and hardened steel cross pin supports after all.
Maybe you should try using Savage diffs. They use aluminum cases and hardened steel cross pin supports after all.
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RE: Ripping up my diffs
hey HPI Salvage RC here is one for ya... http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_7881536/tm.htm
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RE: Ripping up my diffs
ORIGINAL: HPI_Savage_RC
You shouldn't be stripping LST diffs under ANY circumstances. Every LST owner on this forum has told me that they don't break, so I don't know what the problem is???????????
Maybe you should try using Savage diffs. They use aluminum cases and hardened steel cross pin supports after all.
You shouldn't be stripping LST diffs under ANY circumstances. Every LST owner on this forum has told me that they don't break, so I don't know what the problem is???????????
Maybe you should try using Savage diffs. They use aluminum cases and hardened steel cross pin supports after all.
The real issue came about sometime around 2007 or so when Losi parts either were made by a new company or a different plastic formula was used. Parts looked different - the color was a shade or two off from what they used to be and some parts started coming on trees when they didn't used to. That was when I started having problems with the diff housings. The plastic used was not as durable. Or at least that's the way it seemed to me.
One of the reasons that the Savage is able to withstand heavy abuse is that it is good at flexing on impact. This is a purposeful design that mitigates the stress from the impact across multiple parts. However, the trade off is gear mesh. Flexing changes the mesh and can propagate the demise of different gears in the drivetrain. Like everything in R/C (and life for the most part) its a trade off. Making sure not to hit the brakes or the throttle on impact will help in the longevity of any drivetrain, but especially so on the Savage.
Finally, it is not copacetic to go into any particular forum and antagonize the users therein. I have no idea why it is you feel the need to be so confrontational, but it needs to stop. And this goes for anyone here that might feel like retaliating in the Savage forums. This is just not acceptable behavior. As an MT racer, I feel like we should all be supporting each other. Our class is dying a quick death and it is my biggest disappointment in all of RC. So to see this useless bickering really pushes my buttons.
I'll be happy to lock the thread if people feel like they cannot refrain from antagonizing each other.
Rob
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RE: Ripping up my diffs
I have never had a diff fail on me yet, however Bigblock454 had several. So I upgraded mine to the HD diff housings, and I think that using a good heavy diff fluid may also help dampen the shock on the internal gears of the diff itself. But also make sure that your diffs are shimmed properly without excessive slop in the ring and pinion mesh.
#18
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RE: Ripping up my diffs
If you're blowing LST diffs, it can really only be one of three things:
1.) Something is not lined up right somewhere. I.e., something needs to be shimmed, or something is binding in the linkage or elsewhere, etc.. I.e., your setup.
2.) There is a quality issue somewhere. Whatever brand in RC, I find quality to be inconsistent. I've had a tough Savage, and a completely useless lemmon(not "tough" by any means - in fact the weakest, lamest RC I've had to date, and having proved unequivocally IMO that the bendier-is-tougher argument is simply, indisputably false. Seen way too many XSS plastic parts bend - then break - for that to hold up... And yeah, just because a truck has a TVP chassis, doesn't mean it's tough or reliable. The only thing really on a Savage that is tough are the lower a-arms. The rest is a c.rapshoot at best. There is NO comparing Losi to Savage drivetrains.) My first LST2 is a tank, my second one has had an issue or two(mostly the stupid 2-speed and slipper.. Fixed now with a new internal 2-speed part - 3 bucks - and the truck is running flawlessly as you'd expect...) I also sometimes wonder if the plastic or chassis plates can warp a bit and bend the chassis. I hear of guys having problems with their drive-shafts not staying in the center cups for ex.. If the chassis has gone concave, that would explain why. My theory is the New Era roll-bar goes a long way to preventing all kinds of problems - makes the chassis stiffer.. But I don't know, back to diffs. How exactly are they getting "ripped up"?? If the gears are just falling apart, maybe it's a bad quality batch or something..
3.) You're driving like a madman, landing jumps at WOT, doing lots of donuts, etc etc..
My basher LST2* is 2 1/2 years old and has never had a diff issue til after my last bash, when an internal pin broke. Replaced that, all is good.. I also had a Muggy, which I bought used, ran several engines in, including a Nova 528XR, and then re-sold after a good eight gallons of abuse. I never opened a diff. The guy with it now is running an RB 928 on the same diffs I believe. Point is, it's not normal to be blowing Losi diffs. Compared to say, HPI, Losi diffs are set and forget and not something you should even have to think about. So it's got to be one of those three abnormal things.
* My racer only has a couple gallons on it at this point, but no diff issues.
1.) Something is not lined up right somewhere. I.e., something needs to be shimmed, or something is binding in the linkage or elsewhere, etc.. I.e., your setup.
2.) There is a quality issue somewhere. Whatever brand in RC, I find quality to be inconsistent. I've had a tough Savage, and a completely useless lemmon(not "tough" by any means - in fact the weakest, lamest RC I've had to date, and having proved unequivocally IMO that the bendier-is-tougher argument is simply, indisputably false. Seen way too many XSS plastic parts bend - then break - for that to hold up... And yeah, just because a truck has a TVP chassis, doesn't mean it's tough or reliable. The only thing really on a Savage that is tough are the lower a-arms. The rest is a c.rapshoot at best. There is NO comparing Losi to Savage drivetrains.) My first LST2 is a tank, my second one has had an issue or two(mostly the stupid 2-speed and slipper.. Fixed now with a new internal 2-speed part - 3 bucks - and the truck is running flawlessly as you'd expect...) I also sometimes wonder if the plastic or chassis plates can warp a bit and bend the chassis. I hear of guys having problems with their drive-shafts not staying in the center cups for ex.. If the chassis has gone concave, that would explain why. My theory is the New Era roll-bar goes a long way to preventing all kinds of problems - makes the chassis stiffer.. But I don't know, back to diffs. How exactly are they getting "ripped up"?? If the gears are just falling apart, maybe it's a bad quality batch or something..
3.) You're driving like a madman, landing jumps at WOT, doing lots of donuts, etc etc..
My basher LST2* is 2 1/2 years old and has never had a diff issue til after my last bash, when an internal pin broke. Replaced that, all is good.. I also had a Muggy, which I bought used, ran several engines in, including a Nova 528XR, and then re-sold after a good eight gallons of abuse. I never opened a diff. The guy with it now is running an RB 928 on the same diffs I believe. Point is, it's not normal to be blowing Losi diffs. Compared to say, HPI, Losi diffs are set and forget and not something you should even have to think about. So it's got to be one of those three abnormal things.
* My racer only has a couple gallons on it at this point, but no diff issues.
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RE: Ripping up my diffs
ORIGINAL: RCtruckRacer
I certainly do not remember telling you this. And I bought an LST back in July of 2004 (2005? mr memory here...) when they first came out. Talk about diff problems - the plastic cases failed almost immediately. But today I realize that I had the brakes adjusted so it would do stoppies. If I had the brake dialed back a bit, no doubt the cases would have lasted a bit longer. But still, the aluminum cases are a must and that was one of the upgrades on the LST2.
I certainly do not remember telling you this. And I bought an LST back in July of 2004 (2005? mr memory here...) when they first came out. Talk about diff problems - the plastic cases failed almost immediately. But today I realize that I had the brakes adjusted so it would do stoppies. If I had the brake dialed back a bit, no doubt the cases would have lasted a bit longer. But still, the aluminum cases are a must and that was one of the upgrades on the LST2.
The real issue came about sometime around 2007 or so when Losi parts either were made by a new company or a different plastic formula was used. Parts looked different - the color was a shade or two off from what they used to be and some parts started coming on trees when they didn't used to. That was when I started having problems with the diff housings. The plastic used was not as durable. Or at least that's the way it seemed to me.
One of the reasons that the Savage is able to withstand heavy abuse is that it is good at flexing on impact. This is a purposeful design that mitigates the stress from the impact across multiple parts. However, the trade off is gear mesh. Flexing changes the mesh and can propagate the demise of different gears in the drivetrain. Like everything in R/C (and life for the most part) its a trade off. Making sure not to hit the brakes or the throttle on impact will help in the longevity of any drivetrain, but especially so on the Savage.
Finally, it is not copacetic to go into any particular forum and antagonize the users therein. I have no idea why it is you feel the need to be so confrontational, but it needs to stop. And this goes for anyone here that might feel like retaliating in the Savage forums. This is just not acceptable behavior. As an MT racer, I feel like we should all be supporting each other. Our class is dying a quick death and it is my biggest disappointment in all of RC. So to see this useless bickering really pushes my buttons.
I'll be happy to lock the thread if people feel like they cannot refrain from antagonizing each other.
Rob
I'll be happy to lock the thread if people feel like they cannot refrain from antagonizing each other.
Rob
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RE: Ripping up my diffs
ORIGINAL: RCtruckRacer
I certainly do not remember telling you this. And I bought an LST back in July of 2004 (2005? mr memory here...) when they first came out. Talk about diff problems - the plastic cases failed almost immediately. But today I realize that I had the brakes adjusted so it would do stoppies. If I had the brake dialed back a bit, no doubt the cases would have lasted a bit longer. But still, the aluminum cases are a must and that was one of the upgrades on the LST2.
The real issue came about sometime around 2007 or so when Losi parts either were made by a new company or a different plastic formula was used. Parts looked different - the color was a shade or two off from what they used to be and some parts started coming on trees when they didn't used to. That was when I started having problems with the diff housings. The plastic used was not as durable. Or at least that's the way it seemed to me.
One of the reasons that the Savage is able to withstand heavy abuse is that it is good at flexing on impact. This is a purposeful design that mitigates the stress from the impact across multiple parts. However, the trade off is gear mesh. Flexing changes the mesh and can propagate the demise of different gears in the drivetrain. Like everything in R/C (and life for the most part) its a trade off. Making sure not to hit the brakes or the throttle on impact will help in the longevity of any drivetrain, but especially so on the Savage.
Finally, it is not copacetic to go into any particular forum and antagonize the users therein. I have no idea why it is you feel the need to be so confrontational, but it needs to stop. And this goes for anyone here that might feel like retaliating in the Savage forums. This is just not acceptable behavior. As an MT racer, I feel like we should all be supporting each other. Our class is dying a quick death and it is my biggest disappointment in all of RC. So to see this useless bickering really pushes my buttons.
I'll be happy to lock the thread if people feel like they cannot refrain from antagonizing each other.
Rob
ORIGINAL: HPI_Savage_RC
You shouldn't be stripping LST diffs under ANY circumstances. Every LST owner on this forum has told me that they don't break, so I don't know what the problem is???????????
Maybe you should try using Savage diffs. They use aluminum cases and hardened steel cross pin supports after all.
You shouldn't be stripping LST diffs under ANY circumstances. Every LST owner on this forum has told me that they don't break, so I don't know what the problem is???????????
Maybe you should try using Savage diffs. They use aluminum cases and hardened steel cross pin supports after all.
The real issue came about sometime around 2007 or so when Losi parts either were made by a new company or a different plastic formula was used. Parts looked different - the color was a shade or two off from what they used to be and some parts started coming on trees when they didn't used to. That was when I started having problems with the diff housings. The plastic used was not as durable. Or at least that's the way it seemed to me.
One of the reasons that the Savage is able to withstand heavy abuse is that it is good at flexing on impact. This is a purposeful design that mitigates the stress from the impact across multiple parts. However, the trade off is gear mesh. Flexing changes the mesh and can propagate the demise of different gears in the drivetrain. Like everything in R/C (and life for the most part) its a trade off. Making sure not to hit the brakes or the throttle on impact will help in the longevity of any drivetrain, but especially so on the Savage.
Finally, it is not copacetic to go into any particular forum and antagonize the users therein. I have no idea why it is you feel the need to be so confrontational, but it needs to stop. And this goes for anyone here that might feel like retaliating in the Savage forums. This is just not acceptable behavior. As an MT racer, I feel like we should all be supporting each other. Our class is dying a quick death and it is my biggest disappointment in all of RC. So to see this useless bickering really pushes my buttons.
I'll be happy to lock the thread if people feel like they cannot refrain from antagonizing each other.
Rob