paul_TAB4

I am tearing down my mach 26 tonight. I haven't done this before, so I was wondering if anyone had some advice for me?

it is from an aftershock (used). only one gallon of fuel threw it. I picked up some nitro cleaner, green slime for the O rings, rc one after run oil and some o'donnell o'lube on the advice from my LHS.

any advice on the order of dis assembly and or assembly, cleaning and wear indication would be greatly appreciated.

thanx for any help..

full maxx

clutch works, pull/roto start, carb, backplate , head, put a zip tie through the exhaust then rotate the piston up to get the sleeve out, then the piston /rod then the crank shaft....assembly is reverse just pay attention to how it comes apart esp the fitment of the start shaft to the crank shaft ...here is the breakdown of the whole truch, motor is at the bottom http://www.losi.com/ProdInfo/Files/L...plodedView.pdf

HerrSavage

If it's only got a gallon through it and no obvious problems running, why in the heck are you tearing it down?

iceracer65

i will be rebuilding mine soon too...

will this work in it? http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...rodID=LOSR1063 'be sweet if it did

full maxx

not sure as that is for a 427 and the shock is a 26 but someone that knows for sure will key in shortly

paul_TAB4

I am tearing it down because I broke the spin start. I have one on order, so I figured I would tear it apart and check for wear.
also it is a crappy motor anyway, I figured it would be good practice.

thanx full maxx.

iceracer65

i know... i was hoping the cases would be the same...that would be a CHEAP 427 lol. they make an "m"427 p/s set too.

do they come with a connecting rod or do i have to re-use?

full maxx

you can get a new one ... might would use the old one depends on how many gallons are on it

iceracer65

right on...

i havent looked at the wrist pin area on how it comes apart, i will wait till the new stuff comes. do we need any other parts, ie. circlips?

paul_TAB4

so I tore down the motor and cleaned her all up nice e nice. the problem is now when I tighten up the back plate, the motor won't turn over.[&o] also I noticed that it was way loose when I took it off. I think the guy I bought it from lied about how many gallons he had run threw it. I think that the piston head looked kinda worn. also the gasket between the back plate and the block was missing.

should I turf this motor? I have an OFNA .26 that will fit if I shave the chassis a little, where the fly wheel sticks threw.

will the OFNA motor work? I dunno, what do you guys think?

iexion

Im going to contest that statement. If your not running that mach with a "HT" pipe then your not even touching the real power of that engine. And with only a gallon ran thru it, it should be able to flip a 1/8 MT on its ass. I don't know why people bash the mach.26 and mach .26ss engines so much. being you can get a new M26 off ebay for $80, its a great engine for the price. Much better then the Axial .28 Spec 1s

If you can post pics of the cylinder and inside the sleeve, we can get a better idea if the engine was ran hot or not. As for cleaning. REGARDLESS of what people say, WD40 is great for cleaning out a engine. I have NEVER had a problem with WD40.

iexion

Won't work. Both engines are designed differently, Different timing etc...

dgz69er

They are the exact same size, the only diffecence is the sleeve, it is more aggressively ported. I have rebuilt m26ss's in the past with a 427 sleeve.

dgz69er

also if the motor only has a gallon throught, there is a chance you won't need the zip tie, sometimes they will pop right out.

As for all the other stuff the hobby shop sold you, they took you. I've never used after run oil, and I don't know anybody who does. There are plenty of sponsored racers here in colorado. Just make sure you burn all the fuel out of your engine after you run. Start it a few times, you will know when its empty. After run oil from a hobby shop is a joke. It is transmission fluid. If your gonna use it, then go by some tranny fluid. Much cheaper.

Another thing on the engine. Set your oven to 350, let it warm up, and put your crank case in there for 10-15 minutes. Use pot holders when you take it out. That should make the sleeve come out easier, or use a hair dryer. The sleeve lets go much easier when the crank case has been heated up.

dgz69er

No there not. I have used them before.

iceracer65

is this how you get the inner bearing out too?

are we sure about the 427 fitting in the m26? i need to order a piston/sleeve pronto...

what else do i need besides the piston/sleeve? clips for the wrist pin? anything else i should look for?

thanks!

iexion

The 427 is a .26?!?!?
Well I stand corrected

dgz69er

yes the 427 is a .26

4.27cc = .2605713872845 cubic inches.

dgz69er

I've never pulled the inner bearings out of a motor. The longest I've had a motor is for about 15 gallons. It was a mach 4.27. Never had any problems with the bearings. Honestly, if the motor is that trashed that you are wanting to buy a new piston and sleeve along with bearings. Then you might as well spring for a new motor. the m.26ss is a good motor, but its not that good that I would completely rebuild it from scratch. If your gonna do all that, spend an extra hundred or so and get a lrp, or something else that is more powerful. If you don't want to spend that, then buy a tuned pipe.

The clips for the wrist pin. I just reuse the ones that are in the motor. Not to say that they can't, but they don't go bad. The biggest thing to watch for when rebuilding a motor. Make sure the crankshaft isn't compromised. That can cause you problems. Also, some people don't agree with this, but I say seal the motor, seal the backplate, and the carb. The biggest problem with motors, is that many of the cheaper ones. Have a ton of air leaks. So you don't get maximum performance from the motor.

Yes I am sure the sleeve will work. I have crossed them many times, the back plates are compatible too. They are an exact match. The backplate from a mach with also fit on a lrp z.28r. I don't have any proof other than my word. If you have any doubt, then just order the m.26ss piston and sleeve. the mach sleeve is just more aggressively ported. The only motor I have right now is a mach 4.27, and its a crappy gold headed one. Btw there is a difference between the gold headed mach and the teal headed mach. The teal headed mach has a larger carb, intake hole on it. In case you wanted to know.

full maxx

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_6451057/tm.htm difference in the machs

iexion

I should of realized this. Being I had both engine, i never thought to see if they we're interchangeable. But now that i think about it, thats why I could still use the M.26ss H.C. head button on my teal 427

paul_TAB4

I installed the ofna motor tonight. I'll drive it tomorrow. sorry if I offended any mach .26 fans. I just found that it didn't have enough torque for my liking ie. no wheelies. and I was running an HT pipe. I know that the ofna motor won't be better but at least I'll be running! I only ran the truck twice and the mach spin start broke.

I am interested in this mach 427 though. perhaps Santa will put one in my stocking.hehehe.

iceracer65

well im ordering a 427 piston sleeve kit as we speak

should make the "old" .26 feeble....


thanks for the help!

Sugafree

Mach"s are Not worth Rebuilding IMO......Can Find them On Ebay for a C Note (most days) and they're not much more than that New Anyways......

HerrSavage

My sentiments exactly..