The outside diameter of the cardboard tube is 15/16" I will save my balsa scrap from die cut sheets and we can practice on it.
With shipping I probably have $50 in these aluminium tubes, I could have driven two blocks and probably picked them up for $10.

Yes

Thank you! Believe it or not, I built that model 22 years ago. Not shown in the picture are the struts. When I built the model, we only had regular servos, and we had to put them close to the receiver. That changed as i moved them to the tail where they help offset the chunk of metal under the cowling. Also it had a goofy servo placement in the wing. Again, we could not use long leads for the servos due to interference:-) So I repaired some wood, recovered w/21 Century fabric white, added a dashboard and a pilot, and she looks new.

I have a clipped wing that will be turned into a acrobatic demon this winter. I will power it with a 1.6 motor, on 8 cells, for unlimited vertical performance. Yes, I flew the 1:1 scale J-3, PA12 and PA11 and I can fly scale like when I feel like it. And I enjoy it, sometimes:-)

Of course i would not recommend the Q42 for a cub, but it flies great, and it glides great (big wing area). If I would build a gas powered 1/4 scale cub now, I would use a 30 gasser in it. My cub is a "hybryd" looks like a Super cub but has no flaps as it is the J-3 kit "dressed up" as a PA18

Gerry

Tony, thanks, I searched and found your build thread.it is very impressive.
Ron

Gerry, thats pretty cool that you have had your Cub 22 years. When I started this kit thats what I had in mind an airplane I would have for many years.

I did not realize that interferance was the reason that they did not use long servo leads in yester-year. My aircraft back then were simpler and smaller. In the late 80's I built a Carl Golberg anniversery Cub and I thought it was Giant Scale. I think it had an .80 FS on it.

Completed the Outboard wing strut attachment brackets for the left wing. They will set 3/8" below the bottom spar. I taped the metal together and shape sanded the round end. Again the disk sander made quick work of this.

There is alot of hardware for this kit packaged in several bags. In the past I would dump all the hardware into a tupperware bowl and dig through it to find parts. On my last BUSA build I had the bright idea to sort all the parts as I opened the bags. Not sure why I didnt think of this along time ago.
This also allows me to store left over hardware neatly. Which raises the question " why do I always have so much left over hardware? "

I weighed the wing tubes which are not a part of the kit. They have a combined weight of 12 oz. The positive aspect is that the weight is located very close to the CG.
I used my Weight Watchers scale to do this. After the Holidays I think I will need to use the Weight Watchers scale for somthing besides building airplanes[X(]

Here's a couple pics closer up..

Camss69, the rib tape adds some nice detail. I have not scene that paint scheme before. I would like to paint mine so that it is unique as well. After all that work you hate to be asked " Is that an ARF? "

I just did a little experiment with some 1/16th balsa and a 1" forsner bit. The bit cut through the balsa fine but there was one small issue. At the very end of the cut the bit tends to grab the waste from the middle and shear it out of the part, causing some of the wood to be a little jagged (Visible in the second photo, left side)

The problem is solved by boring half way through the part, flipping the part, then boring through the other side causing the waste to shear in the middle of the wood.

The two photos show a hole drilled using both methods. The holes on the left side show the same hole drilled in one continuous operation (Front view and back view). The holes on the right side of each picture show the hole made by flipping the part. The flipping caused a perfect hole but is a little more difficult to do.

I do have a fence on my drill press that will make the flipping and re-drilling a little easier as we will only need to worry about one axis when lining up the parts.

I don't have a 15/16" forsner bit but I could go get one. We can drill your parts and it is a good excuse to buy more tools.

Another issue is dihedral... If the wing has any we need to account for it when drilling the holes. We could just add a scale to the drill press table and the fence will allow use to line everything up via the scale for each rib.

Let me know when you want to do some drilling. I will need to go to Woodcraft to get the bit before hand. (Kinda like a kid in a candy store)

Phil<br type="_moz" />

I just tried another solution, which seems to be a good comprimise between the two methods. If we place some tape on the back of the part prior to drilling the tape holds the waste in place just long enough for the outer portion of the bit to cut the waste free preventing the tearing I had seen in a straight through cut. It is not as perfect as the flip method but there is far less chance of error with a single operation.

Phil

Phil, I will go to Woodcraft and pick up a 15/16 and an 11/16 Forstner bit. After the job you can have the bits, those are both an odd size. The 11/16 is for the Conduit.
There is no Dyhedral but the Cabin Top Plywood Airfoil ribs will taper in slightly near the back of the Fuse. These two Pieces can be drilled 1" to allow for the difference and I can make a Ply doubler with a 15/16 hole to glue after final positioning. I left you a text, I am availible today, I will go to Woodcraft this morning. If you want to go with me Call and I will buy you lunch.
RC
P.S. I know what you mean about that Woodcraft store, went there the other day. Plenty of tools there that would improve my Craftmanship.

Too bad I'm not a little closer to Chandler Ariz., I'd like to go to the Woodcrafter store with you guys.............

Don in Calif.

Don you should have joined us. That place is cool.

Ribs are drilled! Went over to Phil's shop and he drilled out my ribs today. Thank you Phil for the help.

Ron,

That was a great way to spend the day. You are welcome to come over anytime.

Phil

More pics.

Did you drill the ribs to provide proper diahedral (Spelling?)?

Tony, I did not. I thought the wing had little to no dyhedral. How much does it have? I will go back to the plans, I obviously missed somthing.
Ron
P.S. I later went back through the entire instruction Book. I found the word "Dyhedral" One time in the entire book on page 24. I guess that explains how I could have missed it. Dyhedral is not mentioned in conjunction to the Root ribs or Cabin top construction. Glad you mentioned it.

OOPS !!!!!!!! ??????



Denis

My incorrect assumptions were drawn from the Root rib instructions and cabin top instruction that both build at 90 degree. I just found the first mention of dyhedral in the Strut attachment instructions. My bad, missed that.

Page 24 in the manual shows a 3/4 inch wingtip rise over the root rib.
This will require modifying slightly the four innermost ribs per wing.
Tony , thanks for the heads -up, I will scratch my head for a while and decide how to proceed.

Dont feel bad: I just finished the right and left sides of the Fuse crutch. they both build from the same plan, although they came out a little different. Dont know how I do that

there fixed now, would have had a rather crooked fuselage.


Denis

I don't think there will be an issue. The struts truly set the dihedral. There will be enough movement in the wings to allow for a minimal amount of dihedral. If needed we could make an adjustment to the ribs and make some ply rings to glue and permanently set the dihedral, as we discussed today. From all the photos I have seen there there appears to be about one degree of dihedral in most Cub wings.

I put one degree per wing in my Cub just to make sure I don't have the wings drooping. My 1/5th Scale Cub has less than that.

I just saw your post.. 3/4 of an inch over a 140 inch wing is tiny. We cant change the inner ribs, because they set the alignment of the wing to the fuselage, so we would have to make the adjustments to the outer ribs with the wing tubes. Likely open up the hole down towards the bottom of the ribs allowing the wings to rise. You will find this will be minor, like 1/8" to 3/16".

Phil