gagallagher04401

My Feedback: (20)

Hey everyone!!

I got my plane, came yesterday. Great planes Giant big stik. Took me over an hour just to get it unpacked. This thing is huge! Looks awesome!
Well I got the 40cc engine mounted up. I cleaned up the wiring etc... Got prop on, got my radio binded, throttle hooked up. Everything seems to be going well.

The prop is a 18x8, is there a better size prop I should be using for this plane? The engine is a CCRC 40cc engine, all broke in and ready for action.
What would be the best ratio of oil for this plane? I have fully synthetic oil ready to be mixed.

I have two 2150mah Nimh 4-cell Rx packs, one 2000mah 5-cell nimh ignition battery (with 6v regulator installed) The three switches all have the charging jacks also. I need a charger to charge all of these. What is the best, easiest and most efficient way to do this?
I do use a DX7 and have the charger that will charge the two 4-cell packs but I assume would take quite some time. Still would need something for the 5-cell ign. pack.

Thanks
George

chris923

My Feedback: (53)

I sure you are a great guy but, take my advice, before anything else, read the gas threads, battery threads and the oil threads. Than ask your questions.

Chris923

ahicks

My Feedback: (2)

It never fails to amaze me why people that don't want to/have the time to help have to post anyway? Do you REALLY think you're being helpful?

Prop, You're probably fine with the 18x8, but with that plane I'd be tempted to go with a prop that has 6" of pitch. More power (vertical), and easier to control speed. Not sure how much power you have available, but maybe a 20x6?

Oil ratio - I'd suggest 40/1 or 50/1 for an engine that's broken in. 40/1 is obviously safer, more bearing friendly.

Charging - Realizing I might be stepping into some deep stuff here. Regarding identical packs - a Y harness on a single charger will work. I use the same 4 cell charger on the 5. You're right. It takes longer (in both cases), but I'm usually charging overnight anyway. I'm only stating that it works. I will not argue the fact there may be better ways of doing this.

BarracudaHockey

My Feedback: (11)

I'd personally run 5 cell packs on the reciever, and a 4 cell on the ignition and do away with the regulator or diode, whatever you're using.

karolh

Excellent suggestion, as I have never been able to fathom why some many people use higher voltage batteries than required and then use regulators or diodes to bring it back down, and then when one fails all hell breaks loose.

Karol

K-Bob

My Feedback: (1)

One reason I do, and I'm sure there are others, is becuse I want to use 2300MAh A123s. I'd rather knock down (in the case of Chinese ignition systems)a 6.6V pack than wait for a heavy 4.8V NiMh or NiCd to charge.

BarracudaHockey

My Feedback: (11)

A123 no problem, but if he's going to run Nicad's, might as well just use a 4 cell to begin with, its lighter and has one less component in the mix.

gagallagher04401

My Feedback: (20)

Well.......... I have been reading and writing. The 5 page thread on"I want a gasser plane, I have questions" is mine. I started this new thread because that one was getting to long and no one was responding. I have done my reading, and learning, and researching, I have searched, and read. Now I am asking. Just like shopping, after looking around in a store for a bunch of time, sometimes it is just easier to ask, then to wander and waste tons of time.

Well as far as the prop only one I have is the 18x8, and that is what the guy was flying it with so I will start with that. Then you all vote 18x6?

Oil 40:1 is easy for me, the little bottle I got mixes 40:1, it is fully synthetic also.

The plane was flown with the batteries in it I mentioned. The ignition on this plane is 4.8v-6v (if I remember right) The previous owner opted for the 5 cell ign. battery, versus a 4 cell (4.8V) to be safe, but put the voltage regulator in to be safe not to go over the 6V rating of it Am I making sense?

My concern is, the only charger I have that can plug into each switch jack is my DX7 spektrum charger. So I should get a Y-harness so I can charge the two RX packs at once?
How about the 5 cell pack? just use my spektrum charger and charge it over night?

Thanks everyone!
George

rstearman

My Feedback: (185)

All the ignitions I use (3w, ZDZ, CH, RCexl) work better at 4.8 volts. Believe it or not, but a 4.8 volt battery has a longer run time than a 6 volt and is easier on the ignition. Usually a 4.8 volt 1000mah to 1500mah battery on a single cylinder engine is fine. I just checked my Ignition battery on my Extra and after flying it for 28 minutes it used only 184 mahs.

Oil ratios depend on the oil manufactures requirements. Some oils are made to run at 20 to 1 while others are at 100 to 1. If you run a 100 to 1 oil say at 32:1 you'll stick the ring and burn up the engine. A 20 to 1 oil mixed at 100 to 1 you'll toast your engine.
I would suggest using Stihl chain saw oil. They make a full synthetic and a semi synthetic available in 2.6 oz bottles.
For your Nicad batteries buy a HOBBICO ACCU-CYCLE ELITE CHARGER. It's simple to use and will charge two packs at the same time.

gagallagher04401

My Feedback: (20)

Well I guess I should take out the 5 cell at the ignition, and put in a spare 4.8V spektrum Rx pack I have?
I have a multi chemistry charger, and my spektrum DX7 charger. I can use my DX7 charger for now, and I need to get the right lead so I can also use my multi chemistry charger as well.

My engine is a CCRC 40cc engine all broke in, need to find what the manufacturer recommends Grrr.....


Thanks
George

ahicks

My Feedback: (2)

As mentioned, what you have will work. The guys are supplying ideas, not instructions. You can use them or not as you see fit?

Just another idea, regarding that 5 cell NiMh, if you can solder you could remove that 5th cell and not use the regulator as well?

If you are using a synthetic oil designed for an air cooled engine, normally they list a range of suggested ratios they're designed to work with on the package. Pretty sure 40/1 will be safe.

An 18x6 isn't going to supply enough load for a good running 40cc engine. It may allow it to over rev. All else being equal, a 20x6 should provide about the same load and should turn about the same rpm's that the 18x8 is turning. Again, the prop you have will probably work. You could try the different size if you're looking for an extra prop, or break the 18x8?

Hang in there, you'll figure more of this out as you get further into it. It does get easier!

gagallagher04401

My Feedback: (20)

Yeah I know, I am just double and triple checking I have alot of money in this plane, and just want everything to go "right" I do not want to destroy it the first time I try to take her up. I want this to be a good and happy experience Very nervous and will be until I get it off the ground and "just do it" LOL
Maybe I am being way to fussy and just need to fly the damn thing. LOL

The oil I have is from sears 2-cycle fully synthetic says 40:1 on the bottle.

Thanks
George

captinjohn

If you live in Main....because of the extreme cold weather...I would wait some time for a real nice day before you fly. Things do not work so good in very cold weather. If you are New to this....cold weather is not the time to start. Capt,n

gagallagher04401

My Feedback: (20)

LOL I know, been DAMN cold here!! negitive numbers, and windy. Plus everything is more brittle in the cold. I will defintly wait until it is much warmer.

Thanks

George

gagallagher04401

My Feedback: (20)

Ok well started the plane for the first time today.

Need to get better at starting it. Took alot, but may be because everything was bone dry with no gas also. Seems like it has alot of power. I tryign to find stock needle settings for it, I know right now when I apply throttle to quickly it stalls out. Need to richen the low end a little?

So once I get the engine starting down, and get her tuned I think she will be good to go. I am using fully synthetic oil at 40:1.

Any words of wisdom do not hesitate to post.

Thanks
George

mrbigg

My Feedback: (21)

Try riching the lowend so that it won't die on you. Do a little at a time.

captinjohn

In very cold weather it helps to cut off the top of a heavy sock and slip it over the cylinder. It will warm up faster...but still will not over-heat.Or usevelcro to hold it there. Capt,n

gagallagher04401

My Feedback: (20)

Something I wanted to mention, how about a engine kill switch that can be operated from the radio? Anyone use one? Is it recommended, if so what is a good one?

Thanks
George

BarracudaHockey

My Feedback: (11)

Yes, Yes,
42 percent products, RCExcel, or Smart Fly.

www.planeaddicts.com carries the ones I use in all my gassers.

kmeyers

I think you need a 20in prop on that engine at least. I've been running a 40cc with a 20 x 8 for years.

gagallagher04401

My Feedback: (20)

20x8? alright I will get one. Is the plane flyable with the 18x8 that is on it though? What is going to be the difference?

Also is their a way to put a cone on this engine/plane? Would look a little nicer I think.

Thanks
George

boisebiker

The 18x8 is just fine for that engine. Very popular for the Zenoah G38, very close to your displacment and power. Spinner is totaly personal choice. Need to buy big one like 3" and then cut for prop and drill for hub mounting. If there is not one right now then don't spend time putting one on until you have flown the plane for a while. Don't get in a hurry either. Spend time flying your other planes until the weather is better. I got in a hurry and the plane is now in many more pieces then it used to be. Also making the 48 mile trip to a local club and having an experienced pilot put the plane up for the first time is well worth the trip. Trying to trim out a plane that you have never flown in a size that you have never flown with an engine style that you have never flown with is a bad combo. I just picked up a Giant Sweet & Low that is a low wing version of your plane. Putting a G38 in it with a 18x8. Very excited to put together and fly. I will be following your thread and experience with your stik. Will chime in every now and then.

gagallagher04401

My Feedback: (20)

Thanks boisebiker!

I am very excited, and you are right, it is damn cold here I am in no rush, I want everything to go "GOOD" LOL I am getting better at starting it also, I have started it on the bench a few times. Trying to get it tuned, I think it is good. no hesitation, or sputtering, after running at full thorttle the plug is brown.

I am not sure also but I am using my throttle trim to "increase my idle" I have it so when the engine is all warmed up that if I click the trim down a click or two the plane stalls out. Is that right? I will be adding a kill switch also before I take her up.

How about expo on a plane like this? 30% all around to start? I am not goign to be messing with dual rates right now until I get used to flying it. Should I leave my throws at 100% or put them at 75% or so to start?

I have also noticed the throttle is very touchy, should it be that way or should I need to add some expo to the throttle as well?

Thanks everyone. Sorry for all the questions, want to get everything perfect on the ground, before it heads into the air.

Thanks
George

BarracudaHockey

My Feedback: (11)

25 percent is a good starting point for expo.

I ALWAYS set up dual rates that way you can reduce throw if something is getting ahead of you during a test flight. Depending on the plane I may or may not use them after that. 3D setups I land in low rate and use a mid rate for large loops, 8's, and high rate for hovering, torque rolling, harriers and that. Most everything else including my helis I just leave it in high rate and set the expo for the center response I want.

kmeyers

The differance is RPM. The load of an 18 x 8 is less at a given RPM so the engine will try to spin faster. The heat and friction go up with RPM. The Main Crankshaft bearings are sealed, if they get hot they will outgas their grease and fail prematurely. The CRRC 40 is not a Zenoah.

The bigger prop (20 x 8) will put more power into moving air at a lower RPM then into making frictional heat at a higher RPM.

The spinner is the same as any plane: Spinner backlplate, prop, washer, prop nut, spinner nut adaptor, spinnner and last spinner bolt.