Jim: found some better Kodak images of the STARS WW1 fleets, circa 1980-82.
What was outstanding about the STARS is how many other RC clubs have you seen build fleets of giant scale WW1 and fly them in formation? None that I have ever heard about! Ah, for the good old days before the ARF generations took to the fields.

My memory says that the STARS D8's were 30% scale which made them even heavier to fly with a Quadra 35 than if they had been designed at 1/4 scale. My STARS built D8 has the Koritz 2.4 which gives more power than the Q35 but also heavier. I also have the "scratch-a-plane" built 1/4 scale D8 which is powered with the Cheetah 42 (Q42) which has plenty of power and much faster than with the Koritz 2.4 on my 30% D8. One drawback with the D8 is with all the wing weight acting above the CG, in this parasol design, I always found it difficult to land without a "nose-over"! Does someone in the previous respondents know how to prevent this
from happening, like Tom Crump

Hi Flicka , As you know I was the original buider of the D8 you have , it is the same color scheme as the Tom Crump one above . When I had it I had a q42 in it & honestly never nosed over on me . But hen I got a Q52 , sold the Q42 & put the 52 in the D8 . well it nosed over a lot then , it is like you said the eng; weight I guess .
Jim Messer is right about flying shots the best , but a lot of times its getting a good photo man to take them .

flicks5,
I can honestly say that my DVIII has never nosed over on landing. Of course this is because I haven't flown it yet. Taxi tests have indicated that the tail gets real bouncy. When I do land it. I hope to keep it straight as possible and let it roll(hopefully) to a stop.

Tom: don't know if you will have the same nose-over problem as my STARS built 30% D8 but I found the best approach was to land at high speed with wing level and tail up and then let friction slow it down as you closed the throttle and stayed on the elevator. My 30% STARS built D8 has a real heavy wing and with all that weight acting above the CG is what I think makes it nose over easily. Hurri has sent me two images today of the 1/4 scale D8 that he built and that I now own. Didn't have digital images of my own available and you may like to compare color schemes. Look Familiar?[[

Bud,

Thanks for the advice on landing. I know my model is very top heavy. I'll keep what you said in mind when the time for the maiden flight arrives.

Thanks, too, for posting the pictures of the hurri/flicka DVIII.

some of my 14 scratch Giants hanging from my fantasic's living/dinning room ceiling. another 10 in shops. 3 more in process. retirement is fantastic with a forgiving wife. dick

They must all be stealthy designs???????????????? Both invisible to radar and the eye!

as I said 'I'm a scratch builder--not a computor jock. will keep trying to post the photo's. dick

jm. does this look ok? 1912 French Duperdussin Racer, 81" ws, gas engine. 3 scary flights. will send more if this one comes thru. dick

Dick: don't take offense just a good spot for a little humor and you are not the only one who has trouble making their images appear on RCU. Let me know if you need some help and I will outline the method that works for me. Just email me for the instructions.

Here is a few shots of my Airco DH2, 1/3 scale, 114" span Z62 power, with belt reduction to swing a 30"x 10 prop. Ian.

To Idigbo: I always thought that my friend, Hank Iltzsch was the only one that built WW-I models that couldn't be recognized from that of the real airplane, but you are definitely in the same league. Those photos of your DH-2 are magnificent. Way back in 1976, my friend George Privateer built a DH-2 and we powered it with a Quadra 35. Had to add a couple pounds of lead to the nose to make it balance. George hand carved the pusher prop, and I assume you did the same for your 30 incher. How does the belt drive perform? What pulley ratio did you use?

Ditto on Idigbo's DH2 as what a great giant WW1 scale model. Had to include this image of a Pup with "injured" pilot after a "shoot down"!

Hi again,
The belt reduction is an off the shelf item, from Mick Reeves Models here in the UK, and it is geared to 1.75 to 1, with the prop turning at 4200. It seems to run OK, without overheating too much as the motor is just behind the cockpit, running an extention shaft (9 inch) which keeps the motor infront of the C G, and lessens the need for noseweight, although the batteries are right up in the nose. The shaft was designed by me, with lots of input from people who know more than I, but was made by a local, and excellent, engineer who knows his onions! The shaft runs in bearings, in an aluminium housing which bolts into the airframe, and there is also another bearing near the rear end of the shaft, which spins the dummy rotary at a much reduced RPM. The prop was made in the UK by EAT Props, although at first it was very heavy, too much material at the hub mainly, so I recarved (hacked!!) it and rebalanced it. The prop weighs about two thirds its original wieght. The model is due for its final LMA inspection at the weekend and, if it passes, test flights can begin. ROLL ON WEEKEND!!!!

Cheers, Ian.

Looks like Top Gun effort to me! Amazing detail and attention to authenticity! Clever, those English chaps!

Ever thought about taking that DH-2 to the Dawn Patrol Rendezvous in Dayton, Ohio? Or Rhinebeck? Wow! That DH-2 is awesome!

First he would have to get it across the ocean? But, it would blow the competition out of the water!

help!!! lost your address about posting photos. dick

AWESOME DH2!
(There were two guys from Thailand at the Dawn Patrol Rendezvous in Dayton last year btw.)

I have been wanting to post here for a while, but I just found the pictures of my Balsa USA Pup from a few years ago. Can also be seen in modelSPORT Video magazine number MS0502.

Nice job in Snowhill(snow ?), NC. What do you think of the idea of cutting the fuse in two behind the cockpit and leaving the whole front intact as one assembly and the tail with rear fuse as a second unit? This is discussed in the newest RCM magazine for a 1/4 size WW1 bipe. I have the 1/3 size BUSA kit in the basement like yours and wondering if this method would have a lot of merit before I build it someday?

Oh--I get it now. You must be talking about AFTER the landing

AJF, we are talking serious stuff here before the take off. Please note the scanned 1/4 Sopwith Camel from page 12 of this months RCM magazine. A new concept for reducing assembly time at the air strip. Now, if it takes you the good part of the day to put your 1/3 Pup together with all the inter-plane struts, flying wires, etc., maybe I should use this fellow's method of assembly of the fuse behind the cockpit? This method leaves all the struts, wires and landing gear intact with the front fuse as one piece! Now, one should be able to build the BUSA Pup the same way!!![[

Jim Messer started this thread so Hank Iltzsch could display some of his great WW1 models. However, since none seem to be forthcoming, I will take the license to display one of his (Hank's) great 1/4 scale WW1 models from over 10 years ago. He sent me the 35mm prints of this model back about 1993? Maybe someone can identify it? He seems to model some of the rarest!

Well I see the word is out that I have not followed all of the posts. I started following the thread wishing I had the photos of my 1/4 Pup that I sold last year. I was so excited to find them that I just posted the pictures without catching up on all of the posts. As for my 1/4 scale, I left it assembled and carried it in the trailer with no problems. My buddy who built it for me also built one for himself and it is a true pain to assemble. He swears it would be much easier to put the 1/3 scale together. I do not get the magizine so I am not familar with the article, but it seems to make sense to me.