jstanton

My Feedback: (14)

I have a 4 star 60 I am building and I want to use a polyester material for a coverining. I plan on using sig stix-it with Nitrate dope to get the ployester material to stick to the plane and seal it. I want to use Rustoleum paint because of the ease of use and all of the color options. I have been to Home Depot to look at the Rustoleum paint and there are different types of Rustoleum. Are all types fuel proof? If they are not all fuel proof will a good brand of polyurethane be good for a clear cote to fuel proof it? I can use all of the help I can get.

Thanks

NJ Georgee

My Feedback: (3)

I was hoping some one had the answer to your question,Funny I was doing the same today looking in Home depot for paint...lol I want to paint the frame a light green color like the ww2 Hellcat had.I already used regular model paint on the cowl and if I could find a clear coat that was fuel proof it would help me too.I dont know why its so hard to find war bird flat colors in fuel proof.Spray cans would realy help.

jstanton

My Feedback: (14)

I know some of the rustoleum paints are fuel proof and I was hoping someone could tell me if all types of Rustoleum where fuel proof or just curtain types. I have been reading a lot of post about this and I know Polyurathane is fuel proof so I am just going to us the colors I like and seal it with a clear flat polyurethane.

Rustoleum does have camouflage flats and I am going to do mine in a Desert camoufalge of a WWII ME-109. I am going to do Hans Marsillie yellow 14 color markings. I will have my computer generate all of the decals and seal everything with the Polyurethane.

Thanks

DBCherry

My Feedback: (4)

Try doing a search for Rustoleum in a couple of the forums.

I've read about the different colors and which are fuel proof (some aren't) but don't remember which ones are. Many of the clear "urethanes" will yellow when applied over paints too, so be careful.
Dennis-

GrnBrt

My Feedback: (5)

from memory here. the plain everyday colors are usually fuel proof but the metalics are not. The best thing to do is get a can of what you want, prep a test piece and shoot it and let it dry real good. Put some raw fuel on it and see what happens.

Patriot

From what I know about Rustoleum is that it is relatively fuel proof up to about 15% nitro. Use the regular kind of Rustoleum enamel. The Camo colors, I believe won't be fuel proof. However, their is no reason why you still cannot use them. You just simply have to cover the plane with two coats of clear coat to cover the camo paint and keep it from breaking down. Some guys even paint their WWII planes with latex, then use clear to fuel proof. I have found that one of the best clear coats is two part automotive type. Most auto shops can premix it and put it in a spray can for you. Just tell them you what you want. I believe you can also get them in semi-gloss or even a satin finish if you like. Just remember you need to have a flex additive added to the clear coat so it won't crack, and once it is mixed with hardener it will harden even when they put it into a can, so it needs to be used within a couple days.

Patriot

Bruno Stachel

My Feedback: (4)

I had a Super Stick 60 ARF I bought from a friend at my club. He had painted it with Rustoleum enamel. It was painted Red on top and yellow on bottom. I think he had the plane for a year. I had it for nearly two years, and sold it last summer. I never found the paint to peel anywhere. It did chip off in a few small places on the horizontal stab leading edges. Otherwise it held up real well. The aluminum landing gear was a different story. It was painted also. With time, the paint began to wrinkle then peel off. So I wouldn't bother with that. Then again, a different type of Rustoleum might work there.

jstanton

My Feedback: (14)

Thanks for all of your replies. I think I will use the camouflage Rustoleum paints and then cover it with the Rustolum satin clear cote. I will test this this week end and let you all know what happens. I run 15% fuel in my magnum 75 so I will be testing with the fuel. If it holds up on the test panel I should be done with my 4 star 60 painted as a WWII ME-109 in desert camouflage.

Thanks

Bruno Stachel

My Feedback: (4)

I'm not sure if it's absolutely necessary. But you might want to give the Rustoleum at least a couple of days to cure before you get any fuel on it.

jstanton

My Feedback: (14)

Thanks for that info. I well give it at least 48 hours to cure before I try any Fuel on it. I plan on building two test panels. One with the satin clear cote over the camouflage paint and another without. This way I'll know for sure if the camouflage paint is fuel proof.

Thanks

kdheath

Remember too, that raw fuel will do more damage than exhaust oil. We have used Rustoleum with nitro up to 25%, but any raw fuel spilled on the nose took it right off. Seems to do OK with 15%, but clean off any raw fuel ASAP. Most "fuel-proof" paints are only fuel resistant at best.

Rodney

48 hours is not enough cure time, it takes at least a week--longer is better to get maximum fuel resistance.

Mr_Scale

My Feedback: (7)

Rustoleum is NOT fuel proof in all colors and/or types. Be very careful. It would be a shame to ruin a nice plane with rattle can paint that will not hold up to raw fuel.

RCFly

I have used the Rustoleum plain everyday glossy colors with good luck. Also, I have used their Satin colors also with no problems. However, I found that the metallic colors, gold and silver, will turn to goo when exposed to 5% fuel. I have nerver used a clear cote to protect it. As for the camo paint, I haven't tried it, so I have no knowledge of it.

I have used Rustoleum paints on Sig Coverall, Silkspan and Ultracote and they worked very well. On fabrics and silkspan, make sure that you fill the weave / fiber voids with some kind of filler and sand smooth.

RCFly

jstanton

My Feedback: (14)

RCFly

Thanks for your input. I will be using the Rustolelun Flats for my plane. I will be testing this weekend and will let you know. I will be using nitrate dope to fill the weave of my Ployester material and using a Clear Cote to seal everything.

jstanton

My Feedback: (14)

I set up three test panels of different types of Rustoleum.

1. Standard Gloss white
2. Auto Primer - Flat Gray
3. Home Accents - Flat Brown

I sprayed each panel with two cotes of paint and let dry for 48 hours. Than I put a teaspoon of 15% fuel on each panel and let sit over night. All three panels were fine the next morning. There was no peeling or bubbling of the paint on any of the three panels.

I now have a teat panel sit up with polyester material and covered with two cotes of nitrate dope and painted with another two cotes of Rustoleum primer flat gray. I will let you know have this works out in 48 hours.

Richard L.

My Feedback: (24)

Great! I'm interested in hearing the results. Will you be testing Rustoleum satin clear or gloss clear also?

jstanton

My Feedback: (14)

Richard

I have the Rustoleum Home Accents Satin Clear I will be testing on my polyester test panel. I believe this clear cost will be fuel proof also because the Home Accents flat brown I used was. I do not have the Rustoleum gloss clear coat because I am painting my plane in Military flats. As it looks like now with using 15% fuel you my not need to us a clear cost, but I will be using one more for protecting the paint than fuel proofing. As my results show that the three types of rustoleum I chose to use seems to be fuel proof if using 15% or lower fuel.

Azcat59

I have used the Rustoleum primer and colors with decent success as noted by others above, but you might want to be careful of the clear coat, I seem to recall that it is not fuel proof. However, you can buy Varathane poly-U in a spray can, either gloss or satin finish, and it is fuel proof. Like most poly-u clears, it will slightly yellow as it ages if it is put on very heavy and over a white surface.

Let us know if the Rust. clear works or not....

Clair

lazyace

My Feedback: (126)

how will this paint hold up to 32 to 1 gas oil mix ? anybody know?

jstanton

My Feedback: (14)

Lazyace

I fly a 31cc Ryobi conversion engine in my Balsa USA Stingray 120 and I use a 32 to 1 gas oil mix. The Rustoleum paint stands up to a gas oil mix with no trouble. I have about 6 hours of run time on my Ryobi engine in my plane and the Rustoleum paint still looks like new.

Richard L.

My Feedback: (24)

Interesting. I recall someone saying that Varathane Poly-U is not fuel proof. What about Varathane water based Diamond Wood Finish? It's designed to provide maximum protection against sun, water, weather, sea spray, and chemicals. I guess there is one way to find out.

Azcat59

I have used the Varathane Satin finish (spray cans) on several warbirds, and they are at least serviceably fuel proof......but then I don't dump raw fuel on them. The Varathane is a tough, alcohol proof finish recommended for bar tops, etc. As to the water based variety, I don't know.

Clair

beepee

I will add that Rustoleum does not stand up to the carrier liquid in Lock-Tite. I always think I get that stuff wiped up completely, but it easily gets under the paint.

Bedford

jettstarblue

Flats, primer, gold, and silver NOT FUELPROOF!
Gloss colors: fuelproof, and gas/oil proof. Let dry for a minimum of 48 hours.
Rustoleum "painters Touch" is really good spraycan paint.
Virtually no paint is fuelproof over 15% nitro raw, especially if it sits more than a few seconds.

Jetts