MICK REEVES SUPER REAPER BUILDING
06-16-2004, 02:29 PM
#1
MICK REEVES SUPER REAPER BUILDING
well,
after 20 years in modeling I decided to make my first jet aircraft. First I builded a wren mw54 mark 2 from a kit and now it's time to build my airframe. My first idea was to build a reaction 54 when it will be available (BTE next kit), but I couldn't wait and decided to go with a super reaper.
This kit is the way I want my airplanes to be, it's a builder kit.........
In order to keep my first jet experience as simple as possible, I decided to build it fixed gear. I duno yet if I will make rudders. the integration of a speedbrake is also an option, because this airplane is known for refusing the ground due to the residual thrust of the turbine. it's a light large design......
I will post here step by step assembly pics and will apreciate your coments and experiences with that airframe.
after 20 years in modeling I decided to make my first jet aircraft. First I builded a wren mw54 mark 2 from a kit and now it's time to build my airframe. My first idea was to build a reaction 54 when it will be available (BTE next kit), but I couldn't wait and decided to go with a super reaper.
This kit is the way I want my airplanes to be, it's a builder kit.........
In order to keep my first jet experience as simple as possible, I decided to build it fixed gear. I duno yet if I will make rudders. the integration of a speedbrake is also an option, because this airplane is known for refusing the ground due to the residual thrust of the turbine. it's a light large design......
I will post here step by step assembly pics and will apreciate your coments and experiences with that airframe.
06-16-2004, 02:47 PM
#5
RE: MICK REEVES SUPER REAPER BUILDING
here are my first coments.
-there are no plans at all!!!
-there is no part list
-the assembly manual consist of 4 sheets
-all the hardware is included
- the quality of the wood and part cuting is above average
-there are no plans at all!!!
-there is no part list
-the assembly manual consist of 4 sheets
-all the hardware is included
- the quality of the wood and part cuting is above average
06-17-2004, 08:04 AM
#7
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RE: MICK REEVES SUPER REAPER BUILDING
One thing I found on mine was be sure to have the wings installed before you mount the fins. It is easy to get them too low. Also, wing blind nuts should be in while it is still easy to get to them. Figure on it it coming out nose heavy. Great flying airplane, and very gentle. Hope that helps.
06-17-2004, 05:14 PM
#9
RE: MICK REEVES SUPER REAPER BUILDING
I am drawing some ref lines, please can you confirm me the recomandes position for the thrust line one inche above the cam.
do you have good results with that position ?. I will fly it with a 12lbs thrust turbine (mw54)
do you have good results with that position ?. I will fly it with a 12lbs thrust turbine (mw54)
06-17-2004, 07:44 PM
#10
RE: MICK REEVES SUPER REAPER BUILDING
ORIGINAL: SALMONBUG
I am drawing some ref lines, please can you confirm me the recomandes position for the thrust line one inche above the cam.
do you have good results with that position ?. I will fly it with a 12lbs thrust turbine (mw54)
I am drawing some ref lines, please can you confirm me the recomandes position for the thrust line one inche above the cam.
do you have good results with that position ?. I will fly it with a 12lbs thrust turbine (mw54)
Not sure what you are referencing too; when you say, "One Inch Above the Cam", but my mounting rails are 1 1/8" below the top side of the fuse. I have even seen the rails mounted flush with the top of the fuse sides, with what seems no adverse affect too flight characteristics.
I think there have been some changes to the Reaper since it's introduction. Not sure how old your version is, but mine was one of the late first or early second batch. I did have a problem with the wing spars not wanting to engage the fuse sides... had to elongate the front hole. A friend of mine also had the same problem, and his too was an early version. This may not be an issue with yours.
If you have read all the info in the Jets forum, then you know about the potential problem of the verticals fluttering, and some even parting company. The method Mick Reeves showed in his early versions; was simply not adequate. I have installed four dowels completly through the verticals, with bolts and washers to secure. Attached are a few pics that may help give some insight.
06-18-2004, 03:23 AM
#12
RE: MICK REEVES SUPER REAPER BUILDING
ORIGINAL: Countryboy
SALMONBUG,
Not sure what you are referencing too; when you say, "One Inch Above the Cam", but my mounting rails are 1 1/8" below the top side of the fuse. I have even seen the rails mounted flush with the top of the fuse sides, with what seems no adverse affect too flight characteristics.
I think there have been some changes to the Reaper since it's introduction. Not sure how old your version is, but mine was one of the late first or early second batch. I did have a problem with the wing spars not wanting to engage the fuse sides... had to elongate the front hole. A friend of mine also had the same problem, and his too was an early version. This may not be an issue with yours.
If you have read all the info in the Jets forum, then you know about the potential problem of the verticals fluttering, and some even parting company. The method Mick Reeves showed in his early versions; was simply not adequate. I have installed four dowels completly through the verticals, with bolts and washers to secure. Attached are a few pics that may help give some insight.
SALMONBUG,
Not sure what you are referencing too; when you say, "One Inch Above the Cam", but my mounting rails are 1 1/8" below the top side of the fuse. I have even seen the rails mounted flush with the top of the fuse sides, with what seems no adverse affect too flight characteristics.
I think there have been some changes to the Reaper since it's introduction. Not sure how old your version is, but mine was one of the late first or early second batch. I did have a problem with the wing spars not wanting to engage the fuse sides... had to elongate the front hole. A friend of mine also had the same problem, and his too was an early version. This may not be an issue with yours.
If you have read all the info in the Jets forum, then you know about the potential problem of the verticals fluttering, and some even parting company. The method Mick Reeves showed in his early versions; was simply not adequate. I have installed four dowels completly through the verticals, with bolts and washers to secure. Attached are a few pics that may help give some insight.
thanks for the infos from what I can already see, I have the latest version. (Normal, I ordered it direct to reeves 1 month ago). If uou look my fuselage side, you can also see that my fuselage ends up in a diferent shape than your.
please show me more details of your speedbrakes and rudder servos instalation
you made a wonderful job on that one, retracts, speeedbrakes very complete !!!
I should have wrote MAC (mean aerodynamic chord) instead of CAM (the french "corde aerodynamique moyenne")
I mean what is the position of your thrust line above the center of the fuse (who is also the CAM position on this design)
06-18-2004, 05:13 AM
#13
RE: MICK REEVES SUPER REAPER BUILDING
thanks for the infos from what I can already see, I have the latest version. (Normal, I ordered it direct to reeves 1 month ago). If uou look my fuselage side, you can also see that my fuselage ends up in a diferent shape than your.
please show me more details of your speedbrakes and rudder servos instalation
you made a wonderful job on that one, retracts, speeedbrakes very complete !!!
[/quote]
SALMONBUG,
My rudder servos are mounted as far forward in the engine bay as I could get them. I simply made a servo mount that is epoxied too the top side of the turbine mounting rails. The rudder push rods are hollow carbon fiber rods with the threaded ends set in with JB Weld. At the rudder side, I used Robart control horns and hinge points.
On the speed brake, it is full span of the top hatch and 2 3/8 inch's wide. It is operated by a Robart 1 1/2 inch stroke air ram. The hatch is framed with 1/4 sq. spruce to give it some rigidity.
They say a picture is worth a thousand words... so here are a few more.
please show me more details of your speedbrakes and rudder servos instalation
you made a wonderful job on that one, retracts, speeedbrakes very complete !!!
[/quote]
SALMONBUG,
My rudder servos are mounted as far forward in the engine bay as I could get them. I simply made a servo mount that is epoxied too the top side of the turbine mounting rails. The rudder push rods are hollow carbon fiber rods with the threaded ends set in with JB Weld. At the rudder side, I used Robart control horns and hinge points.
On the speed brake, it is full span of the top hatch and 2 3/8 inch's wide. It is operated by a Robart 1 1/2 inch stroke air ram. The hatch is framed with 1/4 sq. spruce to give it some rigidity.
They say a picture is worth a thousand words... so here are a few more.
06-18-2004, 06:14 PM
#18
RE: MICK REEVES SUPER REAPER BUILDING
ORIGINAL: SALMONBUG
as per B58 recomandation, I will position the wing fixation blind nuts now
as per B58 recomandation, I will position the wing fixation blind nuts now
Salmonbug,
Something to think about!!! If you drill for your wing spar bolts now, once the wing and fuse are covered... "even with film", are your wing bolts still going to align properly. It would be my suggestion to leave that task until after the wing and fuselage are covered. If your set on doing this task now, allow for the thickness of the covering material.
06-18-2004, 07:02 PM
#19
RE: MICK REEVES SUPER REAPER BUILDING
you are right.............
I should be able to manage the blind nuts insertion trough the holow holes in the front former of the rear spar older (I hope u see what I mean).
country boy, your retract instalation disturb me, I think I will go with a retract also.
I should be able to manage the blind nuts insertion trough the holow holes in the front former of the rear spar older (I hope u see what I mean).
country boy, your retract instalation disturb me, I think I will go with a retract also.
06-19-2004, 05:44 AM
#20
RE: MICK REEVES SUPER REAPER BUILDING
Salmonbug,
Here is a link showing some of the work I did on installing the main gear retracts.
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_95.../tm.htm#952902
This does add considerable time/complexity to what is supposed to be a simple turbine trainer airframe... but in my opinion, well worth the extra effort.
By the way, nice job on your turbine build.
Here is a link showing some of the work I did on installing the main gear retracts.
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_95.../tm.htm#952902
This does add considerable time/complexity to what is supposed to be a simple turbine trainer airframe... but in my opinion, well worth the extra effort.
By the way, nice job on your turbine build.
06-19-2004, 06:04 AM
#21
RE: MICK REEVES SUPER REAPER BUILDING
custom instalation of retracts on planes who are not suposed to have one is one of my specialities. do you recognize the bruce tharpe delta vortex on that one ?
building that delta vortex took me 3 more times than a stock build but what a result.........
seriously, your technique of retract insertion in a foam wing is a example for all of us. thanks for having shared it on RCU.
I am definitly with the retract bug on the reaper
the retract instalation allow also to make a speedbrake nose gear door........
building that delta vortex took me 3 more times than a stock build but what a result.........
seriously, your technique of retract insertion in a foam wing is a example for all of us. thanks for having shared it on RCU.
I am definitly with the retract bug on the reaper
the retract instalation allow also to make a speedbrake nose gear door........
06-19-2004, 06:25 AM
#22
RE: MICK REEVES SUPER REAPER BUILDING
Here are a few more pics. One shows the relative thrust line of the turbine in relation to the wing. Second shows the vertical fin to wing joint. The key to a nice fit here is to place the wings on the fuse & clamp the spars. Install a couple of strips of 80 grit self adhesive sandpaper to the top side of the wing so that it is fitted against the fuse side.
Once you have your verticals built and the balsa wedge glued to the vertical.... you can place the vertical against the fuse and sand back & forth while holding the vertical tight against the fuse side. Do this while making sure to keep the top side of the balsa wedge parallel to the top edge of the fuse.This will give a perfect bevel on the outside bottom edge of the vertical at the point where it meets the wing.
Once you have your verticals built and the balsa wedge glued to the vertical.... you can place the vertical against the fuse and sand back & forth while holding the vertical tight against the fuse side. Do this while making sure to keep the top side of the balsa wedge parallel to the top edge of the fuse.This will give a perfect bevel on the outside bottom edge of the vertical at the point where it meets the wing.
06-19-2004, 06:41 AM
#24
RE: MICK REEVES SUPER REAPER BUILDING
Salmonbug,
I am familiar with the BT Delta Vortex. BT kits are about as good as it gets for quality. Your first choice for the Reaction 54... well, just let me say that it is one sweet looking airframe. I had a chance to see the proto at the Toledo trade show.... very nice.
I am familiar with the BT Delta Vortex. BT kits are about as good as it gets for quality. Your first choice for the Reaction 54... well, just let me say that it is one sweet looking airframe. I had a chance to see the proto at the Toledo trade show.... very nice.