miamiflyer

My Feedback: (1)

Howdy,
picked up the wrong clevis today, the threaded steel clevis
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXK079&P=ML
instead of the solder clevis.
Can i still solder them with silver solder and flux using my propane torch?
thanks. pat

MinnFlyer

My Feedback: (4)

If you can get the pushrod all the way inside the clevis I see no reason why it can't be soldered in place.

Crash Master

That's how I did my flying wires. I use some 600grit sand paper on the control rod, fluxed both the rod and the clevis. I actually found that my soldering gun worked better than the torch.

Just my .0000002,

miamiflyer

My Feedback: (1)

the rod fits good over the thread, not much slob. pretty oily though.
and it's not nickel plated like the solder clevis are advertised for easy soldering.
do you think the solder can wick through the thread?
I guess i'll just have to try one, right?

MHall

My Feedback: (7)

Go for it. That works just fine. The threads help lock in the solder. I have been building planes that way for years, never had a failure. [8D]

JNorton

My Feedback: (2)

CLEAN OFF THE OIL!!!! Clean, it will solder just fine. Any oil and you're toast - the solder will just ball up. I always use an iron for soldering torches are too easy to get the joint too hot. Just my .02.

John

miamiflyer

My Feedback: (1)

nope !
didn't work.
the solder just pearls off or sits there not matter how much heat.
i cleaned the oily clevis with a dawn bath and alcohol, sanded the rod
and applied flux.
what am i doing wrong?

Crash Master

Try tinning the rod first and see if that helps.

Lee Belew

My Feedback: (2)

You will need to use an acid flux first to etch the surfaces and then they will solder.
Clean the surfaces thoroughly when finished to eliminate corrosion.

I bought this from Walmart about 10 yrs ago. They don't carry it any more. Don't know where to buy it.

Lee

dr_wogz

My Feedback: (3)

You can pick up a 'tin' in the hardware - plumbing' section of the "home depot' store.. Flux that it, plumber's flux..

Flypaper 2

Another good flux is STAY BRITE. A silver solder kit that works on piano wire also. Slosh it off with water afterwards to get rid of the acid.

jaka

Hi!
Yes STAY-BRITE is what you should use ...Great Planes sells it!
The best soft solder there is! And the acid included is superb...just drop on one drop and heat and solder...the result ...bright as a mirror and you don't have to clean the piano wire before soldering. I have been using this stuff for the last 25 years and I'm very pleased with it.
I use a 50W "Weller" soft soldering iron.

Never use a torch and hard solder those quick links! You will damage the spring steel tension if you do...too hot!

Regards!
Jan K
Sweden

miamiflyer

My Feedback: (1)

Thank You for so much info,
i went to get the stay brite today but couldn't find it. homedepot, walmart, pepboys etc , no luck.
I still wonder why the "Great Planes" silver solder kit didn't work.
Is it possible to apply too much heat? Is the steel clevis harder to solder
than the solderable ones?
[]

JNorton

My Feedback: (2)

Like Dr-Woz said try tinning the parts first. Balling of solder is caused by contamination. Make sure your iron is tinned first. Clean the tip and apply a small amount of solder. It should have a liquid silver appearance. This tinning of the iron allows for much better heat transfer to the parts. Tin the outside of the rod first. All you are looking to do is apply a thin coating. Solder sticks to solder. Wipe off the excess with a cotton rag. Next apply some flux to the inside of the clevis. Tin a portion of the outside of the clevis. Apply the iron to the tinned outside portion and allow the part to heat. Now apply the solder to the inside of the clevis. It should coat and not ball. Now you should be able to apply heat to the outside part of the clevis you've previously tinned and insert the rod end that was tinned into the clevis. Apply a small amount of solder to make a fillet around the end of the clevis. Remove the iron. Don't move the parts while they are cooling. If you do move the parts it will result in a cold solder joint whose appearance is gray and wrinkled rather than smooth and shiny. Just re-tin your iron tip and reheat the joint adding a small amount of solder. If you get too much solder wipe off the excess with a cotton rag. Alway have your iron tip tinned.

John

miamiflyer

My Feedback: (1)

great instructions, thanks so much.
it worked much better with tinning first.
cheers!

JNorton

My Feedback: (2)

YES. Glad to hear you got it. It is so hard to write instructions. So easy to simply show someone. All we need to do is invent some Star Trek Transporters!!

John