TF GS P47 Build - yeah another bloody one!!
#601
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From: Brisbane, Queensland, AUSTRALIA
Hey Craig,
mate those rivets looks exceptional. Neat work on the panel lines as well. I will be using a different approach for panels lines, no tape but will use a straight edge and a little tool to score the lines into the primer. works very well and give a nice crisp but thin line.
Need to experiement with the rivets to get a good technique going. As I have a Royel temp controlled soldering iron I will play with brass tubing of various sizes to "burn" rivets into the paint.
cheers
Peter
mate those rivets looks exceptional. Neat work on the panel lines as well. I will be using a different approach for panels lines, no tape but will use a straight edge and a little tool to score the lines into the primer. works very well and give a nice crisp but thin line.
Need to experiement with the rivets to get a good technique going. As I have a Royel temp controlled soldering iron I will play with brass tubing of various sizes to "burn" rivets into the paint.
cheers
Peter
#602
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From: ft.myers,
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Invasion? Oil ? I know for a fact that we did use some of your oil some decades back when my Dad's submarine was in Fremantle between patrols. But that was just so he could go on shooting Japs off your front
yard.
yard.
#603

Canuck really nice job. Keep the pic's comming. I am just south of you in Billings, MT. Not quite as far along as you are but maybe by summer she'll be ready to fly.
Again great looking 47.
Again great looking 47.
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From: shreveport,
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Peter,
My job has kept me away from my favorite hobby of RC building too long. Your site has built a fire under me to dust off the TF GP47 and complete it. She will be powered by a G62.
I am building the P47N-1-RE, 44 - 24456, "Sack Happy" that belonged to the 73rd Ftr Sqdn operating out of the Ryukyu Islands May 1945.
I am attaching some pictures of acouple of drawings by Republic Aircraft that Dennis Oliver graciously showed me while visiting the Restoration Section of the Warner Robbins AFB Museum.
They show insignia, stencils, by size and location, and some color codes. The drawings were very worn. I will attach the pictures as I make them readable. I also have the P47N stencils for
those that would like.
I hope this helps as I have received great info from here. Keep it coming.

My job has kept me away from my favorite hobby of RC building too long. Your site has built a fire under me to dust off the TF GP47 and complete it. She will be powered by a G62.
I am building the P47N-1-RE, 44 - 24456, "Sack Happy" that belonged to the 73rd Ftr Sqdn operating out of the Ryukyu Islands May 1945.
I am attaching some pictures of acouple of drawings by Republic Aircraft that Dennis Oliver graciously showed me while visiting the Restoration Section of the Warner Robbins AFB Museum.
They show insignia, stencils, by size and location, and some color codes. The drawings were very worn. I will attach the pictures as I make them readable. I also have the P47N stencils for
those that would like.
I hope this helps as I have received great info from here. Keep it coming.


#606
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From: Brisbane, Queensland, AUSTRALIA
wow those are great thanks very much WBL - good luck with your build too, seems this thread has kicked a few of us along to get stuck into it!
I'm getting closer to being back on the 47 - finished priming the 51 wing and pencilled on the panel lines on top of the wing.
Craig: have posted the pic of the 47 pylon showing dimensions - as per PM the max width would appear to be 10mm
cheers
Peter
I'm getting closer to being back on the 47 - finished priming the 51 wing and pencilled on the panel lines on top of the wing.
Craig: have posted the pic of the 47 pylon showing dimensions - as per PM the max width would appear to be 10mm
cheers
Peter
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From: Edmonton, AB,
Thanks Peter. Now I can check the ones that I have built just to see how close I am. All panel lines on the fuselage have been painted. When dry I wet sanded the fuselage with 400 paper to clean up the roughness and clean up the tops of the panel line tape. I also have done the rudder.
Craig.
Craig.
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I have removed the panel line tape. Looks great. I will let it sit over night and hit it with some 400 grit paper, just to clean the lines up. You can still smell a bit of primer after the tape has been removed.
Craig.
Craig.
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From: Edmonton, AB,
The rudder is complete with panel lines and rivets. All I need to do is apply the trim tab push mechanism to the port side.
Craig
Craig
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From: Stockholm, SWEDEN
Nice thread, being folowing it for some time. Heres some pics of my oneoff droptanksolution. Using hitec 55.
Regards Tobbe
Regards Tobbe
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From: Edmonton, AB,
That looks great Tobbe.
I have been burning in the main fasteners on the fuselage. I have been using a piece of brass tubing and a candle. Lots of work but they look great. Next I have to apply either the standard top, or the philips. I will burn these in with a small standard screw driver and criss cross the screw driver for the philips head. I will post some pics of the finished screw heads once I get them done.
I have been burning in the main fasteners on the fuselage. I have been using a piece of brass tubing and a candle. Lots of work but they look great. Next I have to apply either the standard top, or the philips. I will burn these in with a small standard screw driver and criss cross the screw driver for the philips head. I will post some pics of the finished screw heads once I get them done.
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I have completed all the standard screws for the access panels. I am now in the process of doing the philips style fasteners. There is a pic of both the standard and philips heads. The black in the photo's is soot from using a candle. After these are done, I will begin to work on the very small rivets that hopefully will be slightly visible. I am trying to ensure that the rivets are just noticeable. Some wet sanding after should help this effect that I am looking for.
Craig.
Craig.
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From: Brisbane, Queensland, AUSTRALIA
Criag,
superb mate!! Does OCD mean anything to you? hehehe

Now I'm assuming you use the candle to heat the tubing enough so it will etch into the primer?
I have been playing with a pice of control rod on a small handle to create flush rivets that have the slightly sucken look. Light pressure, a few circular movement and voila! a flush rivet is born. Looks quite good on the 51 flaps
cheers
Peter
superb mate!! Does OCD mean anything to you? hehehe


Now I'm assuming you use the candle to heat the tubing enough so it will etch into the primer?
I have been playing with a pice of control rod on a small handle to create flush rivets that have the slightly sucken look. Light pressure, a few circular movement and voila! a flush rivet is born. Looks quite good on the 51 flaps
cheers
Peter
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From: Edmonton, AB,
That is exactly how I did it. The candle and brass work great. As soon as I get the philips heads done I will post some pics.
Craig.
Craig.
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From: Brisbane, Queensland, AUSTRALIA
again, exceptional work with those rivets, best I have seen in a long time. Looks like the standard has been set. Man I am going to have to practice a lot to get close to your workmanship.
Still no progress here, work is keeping me very busy and still trying to get the 51 ready. I ran into a major problem with that. When I was wet sanding the primer on the wing it left a lot of sanding sludge behind as you will be aware of from your work. anyway I though I will get the garder hose and wash it all off. Yes it washed it off alright but the water got inside the wing structure and caused swelling and distortin with major ripples on the sheeting apearing. As this is an old wing, approx 20+ years several ribs let go from the sheeting so had to cut little holes in the spar shear webbing so I could dribble CA through then clamp the surface down onto the ribs again. also had to cut a few small holes in the sheeting on top of the wing and do same thing. Got most of it fixed but there is still a noticable ripple present. Not sure if it will settle down or not but I can not get rid of it worst luck [
]
anyway nothing more I can do. Word of wisdom, dont wash your wing down!!
ciao
PEter
Still no progress here, work is keeping me very busy and still trying to get the 51 ready. I ran into a major problem with that. When I was wet sanding the primer on the wing it left a lot of sanding sludge behind as you will be aware of from your work. anyway I though I will get the garder hose and wash it all off. Yes it washed it off alright but the water got inside the wing structure and caused swelling and distortin with major ripples on the sheeting apearing. As this is an old wing, approx 20+ years several ribs let go from the sheeting so had to cut little holes in the spar shear webbing so I could dribble CA through then clamp the surface down onto the ribs again. also had to cut a few small holes in the sheeting on top of the wing and do same thing. Got most of it fixed but there is still a noticable ripple present. Not sure if it will settle down or not but I can not get rid of it worst luck [
]anyway nothing more I can do. Word of wisdom, dont wash your wing down!!
ciao
PEter
#620
Peter,
Sorry about the wing! I did something similar and in hind sight not to smart either. I sheeted a wing on my Yak using the "white glue" method where once tacky, you iron down. Worked great, until I decided to float the wing with light spackel for sanding out imperfections. Set it on the bench and called it a night. Well the next morning the wing was all swelled up like a rissen loaf of bread. Holes and CA all over did fix it so I ended up striping it and started again.
This thread has been awsome and I have learned so much. I've been shopping for the perfect candles for my bench!
---- CANUCK1 ---- you are the man! Those have got to be some of the best panels, rivets and screws I have ever seen. My practice on rivets will start with me trying not to burn myself.
Sorry about the wing! I did something similar and in hind sight not to smart either. I sheeted a wing on my Yak using the "white glue" method where once tacky, you iron down. Worked great, until I decided to float the wing with light spackel for sanding out imperfections. Set it on the bench and called it a night. Well the next morning the wing was all swelled up like a rissen loaf of bread. Holes and CA all over did fix it so I ended up striping it and started again.
This thread has been awsome and I have learned so much. I've been shopping for the perfect candles for my bench!
---- CANUCK1 ---- you are the man! Those have got to be some of the best panels, rivets and screws I have ever seen. My practice on rivets will start with me trying not to burn myself.
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Sorry to hear about your wing Peter. That sucks. Thanks for the comments mcarleno. Not to sure about being the "man". I just like trying new things. I find with this scale stuff, if you think about things for a while, they jump right out at you. I am new to the rivet burning, was not to keen on melting away some primer, but it has turned out well. The Standard, and Philip type screws are done. I think I will move to the tail area and rivet the flange that is between the vertical and horizontal stab. After that I will start on the very small rivets.
OCD, Peter!!! I think you are right and my wife agrees.Craig.
OCD, Peter!!! I think you are right and my wife agrees.Craig.
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Well I got busy and finished up the flange on the tail. I used a smaller dia piece of alum tubing for the rivets. Took about an hour to do. I am happy with it.
Craig.
Craig.
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From: FleetHampshire, UNITED KINGDOM
Hi guys, Canuck1, I must add my congrats on your work awsome.
can anyone help me I need to get some ideas on how to do the mechanism for the rear wheel doors, I have built the doors hinged them and all but need some ideas on how to get them to open c;ear of the wheel etc any ideas?
Also Peter going up to Duxsford soon probably next weekend will take some picks for you, just let me know again what area you want. and anyone else that requires some photos let me know.
also I am about to start the panel lines soon, can you let me know where I can get the draawing shoeing me where they go, from can they be doenloaded or where can I buy them from, this is my first scale so still new at this.
Thanks
Simon
can anyone help me I need to get some ideas on how to do the mechanism for the rear wheel doors, I have built the doors hinged them and all but need some ideas on how to get them to open c;ear of the wheel etc any ideas?
Also Peter going up to Duxsford soon probably next weekend will take some picks for you, just let me know again what area you want. and anyone else that requires some photos let me know.
also I am about to start the panel lines soon, can you let me know where I can get the draawing shoeing me where they go, from can they be doenloaded or where can I buy them from, this is my first scale so still new at this.
Thanks
Simon
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From: Brisbane, Queensland, AUSTRALIA
Marc,
thanks for that. Mate it realling pisses me off that I did that, anyway will never do it again.
So many great ideas have been posted on here it is tremendous. Craig and his workmanship have really set the standard, especially those rivets.
Anyway time to choof
cyas later
PEter
Simon: pics below as promised, courtesy of adsala
thanks for that. Mate it realling pisses me off that I did that, anyway will never do it again.
So many great ideas have been posted on here it is tremendous. Craig and his workmanship have really set the standard, especially those rivets.
Anyway time to choof
cyas later
PEter
Simon: pics below as promised, courtesy of adsala


