I went a head and made one of those PVC Portable Ramps that was in the August issue. Thought you guys might want to have a look.

http://www.bigdoubleurc.com/communit...hread.php?t=91

I think you might have to sign up to the forum though.

Full How-To can now be found in Post #5

What a great job! It's laid out much better than in the mag. Also I very much liked the action shot. You said ur from the US but are in Australia. What's up with that? Just curious. Am looking to emigrate to Oz in a few years.

Thanks, I thought it looked cool in the mag so I decided to make it. I'm glad how it turned out.

I just stuffed up the country thing when I signed up, I'll go change it now. (I'm from Aus )

Please post pics here, I can't see them and don't want to sign up for more forums

RC Driver PVC Portable Folding Ramp

Items Needed:

6x T Joints
4x 90 Elbows
1x 1m (1yd) Hook Velcro®
1x 1m (1yd) Loop Velcro®
2x 8.2ft (2.5m) PVC pipe ¾”(20mm)
1x 2x3ft Masonite

Tools Needed:

1x Mitre Box
1x Mitre Saw (Hack Saw)

Cutting:

1: Cut 2 2ft 5” (750mm) pieces of pipe
2: Cut 4 2” (50mm) pieces of pipe
3: Cut 5 1ft (300mm) pieces of pipe
4: Cut 4 2 ½” (65mm) pieces of pipe

The Making:

Step 1:
Place the two 2ft 5” (750mm) on the piece of Masonite, approximately 3”(8cm) in from the long side and 3.5”(9cm) from the short side. Then put the elbows next to the ends of the pipe, this is to give an idea of the size you will need to cut.

Step 2:
Put the four 2” (50mm) pieces next to the elbows, in this picture it looks like the elbows are connected which they are not, they are just sat next to the pipe for an idea of the size of pipe needed, then sit them next to the T joints as shown in the picture.

Step 3:
Sit two of the 1ft (300mm) pieces of pipe next to the T joints along the top and bottom. Now sit two more of the 1ft (300mm) pieces coming down from the top T joints, place a T joint at the end of each of these pieces of pipe (Note which way you have put the T joints as it will save you a lot of time if you get it right the first time). Put the last piece of 1ft (300mm) pipe next to these T joints.

Step 4:
Now get the four 2 ½ “ (165mm) pieces and cut a 45° angle at one end. Place these where the legs will be, shown in the picture.


Step 5:
Now it’s time to start putting it together, you will find it easier to get the pipe into the connectors if you bevel the ends with a file at around 45°. When filing, file away from your body as this is both safer and easier. To get the pipe in tight, using a mallet will make the job much easier and less time consuming. I also suggest that you glue it as you go because the pipe can slip out after jumping it a few times. However don’t glue the pivot points.



Step 6:
Take the backing off of the Velcro® and put it onto the long sides of the structure, take your time here and make sure you make it is straight. I take my time and as you can see the Velcro® is a bit wonky which makes it hard to line up with the jump surface.


Step 7:
Put the PVC pipe structure onto the Masonite and mark out the length of the Velcro® on to it. Do this on the smooth side. Now take the PVC pipe off and put in the Velcro® between the marks you have made.


Step 8:
Now put the Masonite onto the PVC pipe construction. There should be a little bit of flex in it which is okay. Pull out the legs, be careful not to pull them out of the connectors.


You are now finished your very own portable jump. And how does it go?



I chose to use only one piece of Masonite and didn’t bother about hinging it with Duck Tape. I couldn’t really see a point in it because the piece of Masonite was smaller enough to fit in my car anyway. Also I didn’t paint the PVC and I think it looks fine without it. All up it took me around 2 to 3 hours to make.


Thanks to RC Driver™ and David Baker for the original plans