There has quite a bit of discussion about this remarkable ARF. Although technically ARF stands for "Almost Ready to Fly" I treat it as "Almost Ready to FINISH", meaning I am using the prebuilt structures to apply my own finishing techniques. Since the fuselage and cowl are already fiberglass with cast-in panel lines and some flush rivet detail, a simple prep and repaint is really all that is needed. The wing, stab and all control surfaces (flaps, ailerons, elevators and rudder) are all covered with some type of iron on plastic and then painted. In the limited time I had my Hellcat (and other CMP birds - 4 in all), the iron on covering has sucombed to the intense heat here in Southern California, especially in my hobby shack built out back. Quite a few wrinkles and some chipping of the paint occurred. Consequently, I have decided to go with .75 ounce fiberglass cloth and (new for me) Deft brand finish to brush on over the cloth. As I go along, I will not only show how I did it, but what specific products I used. In the beginning, I would strongly suggest that anyone choosing warbirds as their main interest in R/C seriously consider picking up a small compressor and some painting guns - most of this is available from places like Harbor Freight at very reasonable prices. To me, finishing a warbird is probably just as important if not more so than the building part of the project. This is where your model can really shine - the realism that can be had through glassing and painting is second to none. In the first few pics, I show the stripping of one half of the wing - if you look closely, you can see some of the wrinkles and chipping.....

randy

okay.....

both wings stripped and glued together using the aluminum joiner tube. The only thing I would add to this process is to pre-glue (epoxy) the surfaces of both opposing root ribs, let dry and sand with 400 paper. By doing this, you decrease the effect of the epoxy getting soaked up by the wood thus making a stronger wing joint. I also used a larger diameter and longer rear rod than what was supplied in the kit. Once the wing joint had dried, I dry sanded the entire wing using 400 grit paper dry. The wing skins are already very nicely done, but the 400 makes em that much smoother to accept the fiberglass cloth later on....

With the wing sanded, I set about re-enforcing all three joints. Yes, ALL three. The outer wing panels are only held to the main center wing via a plywood doubler spar. The leading edge, trailing edge as well as the wing sheeting is butt-jointed against the center section. For this reason, I used carbon fiber tissue plus polyester resin using a small epoxy/resin brush. Use the brush in a way to force the resin through the carbon fiber into the wood beneath it. For your information, I tested this tissue on some scrap balsa butt joined together and the strength achieved once the resin has cured is phenomenal. As can be seen in the photos, I sanded all three joints, particularly the outer two to create a blended appearance.....

randy

volumes (or is it megabytes?) have been written about applying fiberglass cloth. In the past, I had been strictly an epoxy resin kinda guy. But recently, after testing some of these newer techniques, have come away impressed with the simplicity of applying the cloth. Specifically, I am using the Deft Clear Wood Finish - the lacquer based product and NOT the water based. I had read and personally tested some of the water based product on balsa and found that the softer balsa would warp or distort. So far, this finish has been GREAT - goes on very easily and dries fast. There is no need to rush because it comes straight out of the can and is applied with a brush. I had my usual credit card squeegies and toilet paper to blot up the excess, but found with the right brushing technique, nothing else was needed. Also, I found that after cutting the piece of cloth a bit oversize for the wing panel, that ironing it over the wing helped it to cling better to the balsa allowing me to apply the Deft effortlessly. At first I thought that I would apply a second coat, but realizing that I was using primer, felt that a second coat was uneccessary. As can be seen from the photos, the glass literally becomes part of the wood.....

randy

once all the glass cloth has been applied, I went around the edges to knock off any small burrs, which were very minimal. Initially, I had thought about lightly sanding the cloth itself, but felt this was not needed, and in fact, may damage (ie sand through) the surface. After wiping down the entire wing with mineral spirits (paint thinner), I mixed up my chosen primer, Polyprimer - a high-fill polyester primer that sands equally as well as balsa wood itself. Shown are two brands that I use in my auto hobby - PPG Omni and PCL which is available here in SoCal. I initially use the buff colored PCL primer and once sanded smooth and applied the chart tape for the wing panel lines, I will spray the contrasting gray Omni primer. I thought the wing should have panel lines to match those already present on the fuse. Shown, is one of the small guns I use in spraying primer and colors. This particular gun was bought brand new at the local swap meet for 15 bucks. Spraying is not as difficult as you may think, and I think with a little practice at it, you will never go back to iron on plastic....

randy

How much weight do you figure it will add to the total mass ?

The joint between the outer wing panel and the center section is where mine broke, so it's a great idea to reinforce that joint.

Hi Bossman

I use similar method but I use lacquer which is for the brown paper (don´t have idea about english name for that stuff)
and thane I apply about 2 coats of water based paint with roller. Then just to brush it and you can start with primer...

I like it more then using epoxy - not too messy with similar results

Hey Bossman , when your glassing a wing where did you make your adjoining seams?
Looks great so far keep us posted

LDM,

I cut one entire piece of cloth for each wing panel - the "seam" for the center section just lays onto the already carbon fibered center section. I allow the cloth to overlap at the leading and trailing edges as well as the wing tip - I have found that the top and bottom pieces of cloth "melt" into each other with the Deft product with only a minor sanding of 400 grit to knock off the "nibs"......

One point I would like to make here is that I sanded through (was watching to TV too much while sanding) a couple of small less than a quarter size areas of glass. Deft also offers the same product in spray can and I used it to touch up with a couple of coats and then reprimered. I will post some additional pics today showing the product I used to feather the outer wing joints to produce a smooth, uninterrupted appearance to the wing skin. So far, the wing has turned out magnificently (is that a word?) and is ready to draw the panel lines and subsequent application of chart pak tape. More to follow.....

randy

Thanks BM , I have advoided big fiberglass jobs , this looks promissing

HA!!!

Bet you guys thought I forgot about this thread!!! Actually, I am in the throws of the car show season and between getting cars ready for shows and working on planes, there's not much time left to take pics, crop, upload, post, blah, blah, blah....

At any rate, here are a few more pics, although they are dated - MUCH more has been done to the 'Cat since these pics including choosing a better "interim" wheel for it than the Dave Brown cheapies shown. I picked up a set of the Dubro Treaded Lightweight Wheels (4 inch of course) that I will be using until Robart has their aluminum hubbed 4 inchers available. Shown in the pics is continuation of finishing the wing off in prep for final panel lines and paint. I am not going overboard on the panel lines, just trying to have "something" on the wings and tailfeathers to match the cast-in panel lines on the fuse. As can be seen in the pics, rather than leave the wheel well open, I went ahead lined it with a laminate of 1/16 balse and 1/64 ply, strictly from a strengthening standpoint. If I was building the wing from scratch, I would build internal strengthening mods to allow an open wheelwell. I am, as pointed out earlier, making some inexpensive and easily made gear door covers out of the thin metal roof flashing. You can see my Sierra retracts (thanks Darrell!!!) which only required fabbing up some hardwood mounts and carbon fiber tissue re-enforcement. I hope to have more pics uploaded this weekend showing the bottom of the wing primered and ready for panel lines. I used a two part filler made by Evercoat that is VERY light, and does not shrink like the other fillers. This was used extensively throughout, especially feathering the outer wing joint re-enforcement areas. If I haven't uploaded a pic of it, I will do so shortly to show what I am talking about.....

Jim Jager (Corsair Jock) has been in contact with me and I am trying like heck to get over to Bob Holman's place (he's about 15 minutes from me) to check out the Jerry Bates cowl and canopy, especially the canopy that Jim says more closely matches the CMP outline. I recently bought a Hasgawa 1/32 plastic model of the "Cat and the canopy included in the CMP kit is definitely lacking in the scale outline department. Anyways, check out what I have done and I hope to have more up within a day or two....

randy

p.s. just noticed the pic I posted about the wheels - the one on the left is what is included in the kit, the other is the 4 inch Dave Brown unit. Although I am switching to Dubro's, you can see the HUGE difference in tire size and the impact it can have on this size model....

Bossman--Incredible job!! From the moment I opened the box a year ago, I was afraid I 'd have to cover this wing somehow, and was also concerned on the strength. I never worked with glass on that scale.... Your thread with the pictures is tremendous--great work. I'm always concerned about turning out a smooth (and lightweight ) finish.... I'm concerned about the type of finish paint to use , as well an appropriate primer, however. I'm always concerned on the potential incompatibilites of certain primers with fillers, and then the finish coat--do you then clear coat witha flat (lacquer, other??) Reading this thread you wrote is the turning point of how to do this wing, and tailfeathers. Thank you!! I'm doing mine " late 1943" finsih --Three color scheme off-white. blue/grey/ blue.... Several of The USS Yorktown's Airgroup One , Nine and Five pilots are awaiting the photos---I better get the production rolling. This model is going to the Yorktown in Charleston, SC. A phot- shot on the flight deck. Can't wait. Ed "Sark"

Bossman , so I get this correct
1)prep surface
2)Iron down (not on ) but simply down the cloth (what weight cloth)
3)Brush over cloth ---no base coat on wood --just brush over cloth ?
Thanks , is tha about right ?

BM--To reiterate the prior question---do we or do we >not< pre-wet the surface with resin before we place the 3/4 oz. cloth down?? Sounds like >not< if we are ironing down the cloth. Also, is it > "epoxy resin"<, and not> "polyester finishing resin"<, as I have both from the WRAM show. I'm "told" by some to use the polyester resin for ease of sanding, but . as you said, there is a factor of strengthening the wing's weak-spots in all this, complementing the strengthening the carbon weave contributes.

--so, epoxy resin (not polyester resin??)
--what weight(black) carbon cloth for the wing skin bridging??
-- do not wet the surface placing the glass fabric ??
--fillers?--...I'll wait for a response from the aforementioned questions in an earlier post for those questions .>>>>>>>>>>Bossman : a great great site to view through.. Very educational... Thx---EAS