Scott Ellingson

My Feedback: (146)

Another possibility for a problem like that is the need for a static line on the carb. All engines in the right situation can run erraticly in the air, but good on the ground. Many times it is air buffeting in the cowel causing the static pressure to the carb to change, resulting in poor running in the air. A static line usually takes care of it.

srm99

here is my crack

njphil

Ok, glad to see people read my post.

First, the prop is a Master Airscrew 20 X 10 Classic. Tower Hobbies part# LXZ994 $17.19 USD Second, iIf you go to page 10 of this forum post# 228 by me you will see a two photos that I posted of the plane. One photo is one of the three tachs used that day reading 10,500 rpm That reading was within 200 RPM that was read on three different tachs put on the moter that day. Yes, non of us belived it either that is why we used every avalible tach to check. I can only report and photograph what myself and 5 other flyers witnessed. Notice the shadows in the photo. The tachs were all pointing directly into the sun through the prop. Rf interferance??? Three different tachs all reading over 10,000??? Either way right after changing to the Champion 6Y plug I read 7800 consistently on the same tach that belongs to me that is in the photo. As far as 11 hp, noway But you hold onto the tail of this plane when I hit the throttle and it will drag you off you knees. No one at the feild can belive the power of this little 45cc with the 20 X 10 prop.

I still stand behind my post that if the motor runs on the ground it will run in the air. If you use the 4 to 1 air intake to air exaust ratio on the cowl there should be no change in air preasure inside the cowl. As for my planes configuration with the velocity stacks mouth outside the cowl, air turbulance has not caused any problems flowing over or around it. I will bet money that if you check the cubic inches of air intake space on your planes cowl you will not have 4 times that amount of space for the air to get out of the back........If the mixture adjustments are right on the ground it will fly. 100 feet of altitude is not going to make a mixture change. If you have a running problem you will hear it before you get to the end od the runway. Like I said, if it runs on the ground it will run in the air.

I guess I am trying to tell everyone is, go back to the basics and stop over thinking these running problems. Can the ignition be bad from the factory, hell yes... Can the carb be bad from the factory, again hell yes... Can the motor(block, head,piston, rod, rings) itself be bad from the factory, hell yes. But not if it ran at some point. If the motor runs at all I would have to look at the bolt on parts to make it run right... If I am the only person that got one of these motors that works as well as it has out of the box I should have spent the money on lottery tickets that day instead of a dam air plane motor...................Yes I over came RF problems, timing adjustments and carb adjustments. But I exspect to make these adjustments on EVERY motor that I buy and everyone else should also. I have seen guys at the field pulling there hair out over Desert Aircraft, Evolution and 3D motors over a few adjustments. Let everyone get so fead up that they sell you there high dollar motors for a song.(LOL)

Oh, the muffler cracking photo is a good one. Bin there. I taped the back of the cylender for a 1/4 20 bolt and ran a radiator hose clamp around the muffler, made a hole in the clamp for the bolthead. So far it is holding but the steel bolt and alluminum cylender does loosen up even with Locktight on it.

Good Luck,
Phil Tomeo
Mickleton, NJ USA

srm99

.

Scott Ellingson

My Feedback: (146)

I have had engines do that exact thing. A G62 I was running and a couple others. The problem was the battery was low and could not keep up with the EI unit. It would idle fine but at high rpm when the current draw went up it missed like that. I think that is an EI problem if your battery was good and fully charged. Fix--put CH EI on it Seriously though, it sounds like a miss caused by the EI to me. Maybe RCIGN or TKG would take a listen and see what they think.

srm99

.

RichAur

My Feedback: (1)

How about taking the engine throttle control off the throttle servo to eliminate any rf interferance causing the problem. Do you have a switch between the battery and the ignition unit? If so take that out and connect the battery directly to the ignition. A resistive spark plug does not eliminate rf but reduces it to an acceptable level. Are any of your other control surfaces behaving irrattic?

Post some pictures of your setup....Close-ups of the fuel lines complete from the tank to the carby including the breather and how it passes throught the firewall. Also pictures of the ignition position and all the wiring in between including all the connections. A general one showing the receiver position relative to the engine, ignition, throttle servo etc.

RichAur

My Feedback: (1)

The other thing is I notice you are running it inside your garage or shed. Take it outside..... there is a fair amount things that will cause interferance other than the ignition. I notice it a lot on my larger models with servo extensions....inside they are eratic but outside they are fine. I have switched to using PCM but only after I have eliminated the rf interferance in PPM. Again the rf is never really eliminated it is just reduced from effecting the receiving system by seperating it far enough away, shielding components and filtering currupt signals via PCM. Also if you have not extended the length of throttle arm on the carby, the slightest jitter or slop in the throttle linkage is going to have a large effect due to the small arm movement.

srm99

.

srm99

.

srm99

.

srm99

.

RichAur

My Feedback: (1)

I would remove the ignition switch and put the battery directly to the ignition and run a bit of tygon directly from the carby and drop it into a bottle of fuel to eliminate your fuel lines and tank setup. It is hard to tell from the first video if it is fuel or ignition problem. I am leaning towards a fuel restriction or air leak on a gasket. If there is an air leak you will never get it to run properly or hold its tuned carby settings. Check the pressure line from the case to the caby replace this tube and check the fitting into the case. My engine had a stripped head bolt into the crank case this caused it to run spardicly and not hold its tuning. (check them for tightnes but don't strip em). If this does not find some thing, go and grab some gasket goo such as lock tight 518 gasket eliminator and coat all the gaskets on the engine with this. I have done this in the past on all ryobi conversions I have done and it is the only way to get them to run reliably and once i have done them they hardly ever need redoing. It really shouldn't be necessary but if it cures your probs it may just be worth it.

srm99

.

srm99

.

RichAur

My Feedback: (1)

Do you still have the ignition wire shield under the spark plug? If so piss that off from under the plug and put it under one of the intake manifold bolts temporarily. This is another not obvious source of leaking.

srm99

.

RichAur

My Feedback: (1)

The other thing I noticed was that the vacum fitting into the case was different from mine. Mine is a black elbow fitting the same as the fuel and vacum fittng on the carby. The slightest leak around that fitting may affect the carby pumping properly while running. My leak between the head and the case made it almost impossible to prime and when eventually started it ran like crap. If it is hard to prime I would look for a leak.

srm99

.

Scott Ellingson

My Feedback: (146)

Have you tried a 4.8v pack? I believe the Ei is rated to 6 volts, but a fully charged 6volt pack put out way more than 6 volts. If a 6volt pack is used a regulator should be used to keep it a 6v.

srm99

.

srm99

.

Scott Ellingson

My Feedback: (146)

OK. I talked to Terry at CH and he said the same thing. 4.8v is too small fot that EI unit. I am used to CH EI. Just trying to think of things. He has fixed one or 2 of the CRRC 45's that had trouble. He ended up taking the engine appart, cleaning it out. I guess there was silicone and stuff inside of it. Then put it back together and put thier EI on it. It ran very well then I guess. I hope you figure it out. There is nothing more frustrating than an engine that will not run correctly.

One more thing. Terry said that timing that is advanced too far can cause the problem you are having. Maybe check to see if it is at 28-30 deg.

srm99

.

Scott Ellingson

My Feedback: (146)

The timing is suposed to be auto advance on that engine correct? If so it should retard it at starting and 28deg of advance should not be a problem. At startup it should be down around 6 deg. Maybe it is a fixed timing or somthing is wrong with it. That is strange. The engines I do start great, even on fixed timing set at 30 deg. I do know one thing, an EI problem looks alot like a carb problem. They both have the same symptoms. Do you have another carb to try just to eliminate that end of it. Any carb at all that will bolt on.