i tried the AA without a top wing and the motors on the bottom wings. with no dihedral, the turns were tricky sometimes, but you could pull barrel rolls sometimes if the motors were close enough to the ends of the wings. i had pleanty of empty AA frames, so i just cut the top off of one. it was quicker than the AA, not quite as nimble, but fun for a while (winds kill it!).

thanks for the link, neurotex

nick

Ferndale,
Now I understand what you meant. I didnt understand that the canard was on a Bipe fuselage. As bad as the stock AA porpoises, 1-2 degrees down on the canard and or changing its area may level it out preventing the porpoising from starting to occur. You might be onto something. The undercambered wing will still lift it. Its deff. a high wing, canard plane.

Neurotex;
Sounds like you have it trimmed out just the way I like them. 1/2 throttle gives good flying times and you have the rest to climb out when needed or , if you just want to!
You should draw the plans up and submit them to the AA ToolBox for people to download. I like the looks of it. Right now I'm desiging a high wing 1.5mm Depron, 4-5" winspan for the AA gear. Wing area is killing me on loading!!!!!!!! I'm not sure I can do it.
I got my last one to fly, a 6" F16C. AUW was 8.75gm with a 90ma lipo. I just got 2 30ma lipos! I thought it was posted here. If not, here's the link to the pic, vid & specs.
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=556283 That is the Guest address so you don't have to register to see it.

Jonny,
I made a 7.5" YF-102 Delta Dagger 2mm Depron. Trimming????????? I spent 2 weeks just trimming and rebuilt the nose at least 5 times before I got it right. It looked good (at first). Pretty planes don't always fly. A poorly trimmed plane isn't fun. You are just guiding it around to keep from crashing. Been there done it.
Glad to see you stick it out.

Tony
ARS Software & Innovative Solutions
http://www.falcon1.net/~ars/rcmodels.html

Hey guys, I'm thinking about getting another Aero Ace. Is there any difference between the older models and the ones in the "new" box? Do any of you have any pics of the newer ones? and also, is there a b channel for the new AAs?

The jet/bipe is out of the tree and now is a mono with canards. Pics included.

I stripped down the titan yesterday, taking notes, with the carcass I decided to make a plane the kids can play with. Then I pulled out the carefully stripped out AAjet. If you were careful in taking the jet apart two pennies in the battery box will make this an awesome glider. I just stuck the pennies in loose. For the titan I put 4 nickels in the nose area. If an adult throws it the wing loading puts it into loop. But with the additional 20g it should let the kids launch it from upstairs and get some glide. If you want to demo wing loading on a 4' scale this works well. I had to put some tape running the length of the wing becauce I didn't want to see that anymore.

Ok here are the pics. Is anyone other that Djstinger and myself running this mod? I mean the jet/bipe switchover. Dj's has lights and wheels, mine just has canards[], but I will persevere. Tim

I was flying my modded AA yesterday and i found the perfect way to make it barrel roll. I just made a wide turn and after the turn it would stall a little bit and at the top of the stall, i just turned the oppisite way. it would make it do a sweet barrel roll. I was flying over pavement and i crashed and it fliped with the throttle on and it broke one of the props. I guess illl just return it.

A new product for AA modifieds. That sticky green stuff that you can use to hang stuff on walls, It works great for fill/glue for the canards. Should Djstinger and I assume no one else has this mod? Should we not discuss it on this forum?

Megabyte, I'll try to put the instructions on how to switch the jet gear into the bipe on the AA toolbox site. Tim

My apologies, the mod I am refering to is the total switch out from jet to bipe.

Ferndale, My mono/jet guts has the 1 motor syndrom. I just ordered 8 mosfets and resistors from mega-byte2 so I can fix both of my dead rx's and have extras for my other planes. So was I right or was I right about how fast these thing fly with jet guts. It climbs like crazy and it will stay afloat with the throttle in the 1st position.

If anyone else wants to do this mod it is very easy you just need to take out 1 screw and the rx comes right out of the holderand do the revercr to install. Oh ya, you also have to tear apart 1 jet and 1 bipe but its worth it.

Mono/Jet #1

Djstinger, I am going to do the switchover again. With 2 jet/bipes I can attempt to find the best optons for flight.

Megabyte a bunch of rx's are coming your way.

There are 2 screws, they are on the board. Take the tail of the jet and peel it back. The antenna wire is wrapped around a stop... If someone wants to do this let me know. Tim

Djstinger,

I'll have to see your creation fly sometime. Been thinking of going mono myself without the jet guts.

Do you know of any indoor flying around here? This wind is killing me. The best flight I had around here lately was at night. The lights at the Dayton Mall are bright enough as long as you don't get above them.

Chris

I've got one for ya. I've been looking at my AA and trying to find the reason for all the porpoising. Also, I have my elevators slightly down to get it to climb but if I let it glide, It has a pretty steep descent with no tendency to stall. In fact, it has actually flipped over a time or two. I think the reason for all of this may be the angle of the motors. I think the downward angle forces the nose up. Has anyone tried shimming the motors so they don't point down as much? If anyone has a chance to try this out, let me know what happens.

Chris

Chris,I have to agree with you. That is why I had to put lights on plane. I ordered my lights before I got my 1st AA, I had to find a ( B ) channel because of what I read here. I just exchanged an '05 "C" channel for an '06 "C" red/black very cool looking plane. I was going to get the '06 "B" green/yellow but it was ugly it looked like a "John Deer Tractor"

The lights I have are from aamods.com and are 3mm. What does anyone think might happen if I hooked up (2) 3.7v/30ma(V) 10,500mcd bright white LED's to my '06? I don't want to fry my new AA. I wish I knew what the lights values are for lights I bought...

Djstinger

If you put the light on the power switch its not a problem. Just a little extra power draw on the lipo.
If you put them on the motors..........thats another story. Putting them there they draw their power from the AA output transistors.
The transistors fail enough on their own. 30ma isn't much, but no sense adding to the transistors load.
If the transistors have been upgraded or replaced with the IRLML6401 Mosfets........doesn't matter where you put them.

Tony
ARS Software & Innovative Solutions
http://www.falcon1.net/~ars/rcmodels.html

MY AA seems to be a bit underpowered lately. I've had it about a month and use it quite a bit. Could the lipo battery already be wearing out?

Megabyte-2,My set of lights that I have now is wired to the battery with the jumper switch from aamods. I would never hook lights to the motors. The only reason I asked is because the 1st time I tried using one of the lights I flew it into a tree and it fell to the ground,my bad,when I picked it up one of motors was running very slow all the time. I just wanted to make sure that it happened because of a cheaply made rx , not me adding a light.

Did you get my order for the 8 mosfets/resistors? I sent you a payment through paypal. I NEED MY MONO/JET BACK IN THE AIR "ASAP". Flying my stock AA's just isn't the same.

Hi, I'm back with another stupid idea. Has anyone pulled off the top wing, cut it in half, and taped it lower on the fuse? The motor wires may need X-tra length, though. This mod might give better rolling abilities, but less stability. I thought of this after I finished painting my AA with my new airbrush set. The left motor stopped working, and I thought some paint was in it. Eventually, the motor got cut off, so I turned to my large, cumulative supply of small motors. I hooked one up,.......nothing. So I (carefully) ripped it open, absorbed the amazing sight of the tiny Rx, and resoldered the offending wire. I closed up my victim, flipped shut my "scalple"(is that how ya spell it?) and connected a motor. It worked. I had to move the new motor 8mm to the left, but it works. So will someone try the new mod, or will I have to be the first to try?

just had an idea... does the coil in a ear bud could be used for an actuator?

Guy with a scale wasn't in today, so I was diverted to a lame postal scale, to weigh my 1' square eps & also weighed my plane. Both weighed .8 of an ounce. I'm sure it's rounding up. Hard to believe my circle wing plane weighs 22.7 grams. Better figures tomorrow, I hope.

built out the second jet/bipe. I moved the motors out 1/2 inch and added 1 1/2 inches to the tail. Here are pic's. the plane is just mocked up right now. If it flies well it will stay like this. Otherwise I will have to keep trimming it, literally in the case of the tail, out. In the time it took to upload the pic I gave it a first flight. 1/2 inch off the tail boom immediately. If anyone else has gone down this path before, feel free to enlighten me. Tim

The jet/mono with the motors out 1/2" from the original mounting points is amazing, for straight out speed. I'll do more testing for turns. With the power up it has a natural 15-20 degree climb. I accidentally seem to have solved the porpoising issue. I seem to have found a really good CG for the plane. I have to fly it more to see if what I found is true. For example I need to get in a high glide. But, it glides well indoors. I'll have to reinforce the airframe before I try the high glide test. The extended tail may have worked, but I didn't think to properly counterbalance it. I used a product called poster tack to balance the plane with the shorter tail(1/4" shorter). I'll post a pic shortly. Tim

could my charger/charging issues be caused by worn out tx/chargers? I think I have the jet/bipe/mono trimmed out and will fly it shortly. Then post some pic's. My goal at this point is to make it a stealth aa mono. I.E. if your not looking you'll think it's just another modified AA. Tim

DJstinger, this is the end product of my experiments. At this point. I have put a carbon fiber rod in for the tail boom, I had to grind it out to put the stock tail ass'y in it. I moved the motors out 1/2 inch. The tail ass'y is 1/4" shorter than stock. To achieve a similar CG as stock, I put 1.4g of poster tack in the first cut-out inside the airframe. I used tape to lineup and adhere the the tail boom. I used red shrink tube on the cf rod. The motors are held in place with double-sided tape. The end result is a rocket of an airplane. I may have to adjust it some tomorrow, heavy fog tonight, but it is close. Pic's included. Tim

Djstinger
If your LED's wire to the lipo via a switch, no that didnt cause the problem.
In nsome other threads, they were wiring the LED's to the motors since they were closer to the wing tips. Not the best place to wire them.
I'd say when your plane went in the tree, a branch stopped the motor while the throttle was still on. This causes a spike in the current draw and will fry the output. Same as letting the motors run when in tall grass. The extra drag is a killer. The throttle should be killed first thing when "entering" a tree landing in tall grass....ect.......
The outputs will last longer.

I prefer not discussing business in the forums. Have you checked your email?
I sent you a payment confirmation 1 1/2 hr after it was received and a shipping confirmation yesterday. You should have your order Thurs. as close as I can figure.

Tony
ARS Software & Innovative Solutions
http://www.falcon1.net/~ars/rcmodels.html

novielo
I dont have a clue as to what an "ear bud" is.....
The AA Rx uses 2 positive voltages, changing, to speed up or slow down the motors.
Unless the coil has 3 leads, it won't work. That's what makes my coil design so unique. Its actually 2 coils in one.
If the coil on the ear bud is 20-50 ohms, its possible to use 2 of them if wired correctly in a bifilar configuration.
Measure the coils and if they are in the ohms range, I'll send you a drawing on how to make them work. The may not be as efficient as my design, but it is possible.

Tony
ARS Software & Innovative Solutions
http://www.falcon1.net/~ars/rcmodels.html