Thanks for the help guys. I think I'll try it tomorrow.

Has anyone else been seeing the package deals at Target where you get a AH RC Plane (Various Sorts) and a free E-Charger plane as well? Only $29.99.

I got a red AA Channel B. Tried to fly it today, but there are some serious winds. Many long walks to go fetch the plane. I had to ask the park grounds keeper for a ladder to get my girlfriend's channel C from the roof of the park gym. I tried taping a penny to the bottom of the nose to fight the wind, but it didn't help that much. Maybe better luck tomorrow.

I'm still hesitant to bend the tail rod. if I bend the tail rod, is it still necessary to add weight to the nose? After I remove the bottom wings, hopefully bending the tail rod will be all I have to do. I'm not very comfortable with splitting my plane open and moving the lipo forward. Really, I'm trying to improve agility without increasing speed.

Also, which is a better approach in bending the tail; just plain heating it up and bending it down 1/4 inch or bending it into a "Z" shape like I saw someone else here do? Any help is appreciated.

I've been having porposing problems also but find that using the little silver tas to hold the elevators down did the trick. I also had seriouse left turn troubles with one of mine even at full right turn on the tim. But using the silver sticky piece on the rudder and bending it almost full right did the trick. Flying in wind is a loser (literally). These things really need dead calm they are so light. I'll be removing the lower wing from one of mine. Hope all goes well. Earle

BrokenMachines,

On your AA, the different mods do different things. To give more agility and get rid of porpoising without increasing the speed (which is really a lot more fun) ONLY bend the tail boom or move the LiPo forward. To get rid of porpoising and give more speed but sacrifice a bit of agility, remove the bottom wing or stick a penny/dime in the nose where the seam is...this method will add extra weight that the plane really doesn't need. Removing the wings is fast and easy, and I've been using them as resuable- I put them on or have them off depending on wind, surroundings, and light. At the bare minimum tape the coin to the nose and remove the wing struts. They go as easy as the wings do and reduce un-needed drag...


PB_2

edit: I said "without increasing the speed (which is really a lot more fun)"
what I meant was more speed is more fun...

Raining so I drew up some plans for my next conversion. The wing
works great on the stock AA body and provides plenty of lift as well
as stable tight turns. This is the original dimensions to Guillow's Arrow
wing reduced down to an 18 inch wingspan.
The full size plans fit on an 8.5x11 sheet of typing paper. If you can't
print it from here and want a copy let me know.
[email protected]

*sigh* Reading about all your fun makes me depressed. I have bought two Aero Aces in the past month. The first was caught by a breeze (haha) and taken above the palm trees and gone forever. So I replaced it. So I was having so much fun with the next one, the left engine died yesterday. I'm 17 and can't afford to keeping pumping money into this thing. But i can't live without it either!

I know about the replacement engines, but that's 12 dollars on aeroacemods.com and I'm hesitant if they'll just burn out again.
I bought this last one from Toys R Us (TRU? It took me a while to figure that out ). So help, empathy would be appreciated. Once again, I'm in mourning. So please be encouraging that I will make it through this tough time. Haha

Ian

Well actually, after more thought, is the problem actually with my engine or the wiring? It's not dead, just really slow and the plane does spirals downward because of it. I'm sure that's what it is, but hmm, any insights?

Try a some WD-40 on a cue tip or paper towel, that fixed my problem with a slow engine.

immrbiggs ,

Mac from AeroAceMods.Com here. If it is just one motor... and you don't mind a used one (that works) go to http://www.aeroacemods.com/aam/contact/ and pass us your shipping address and a quick description of your issue we can send one out to you no charge.

Mac
www.aeroacemods.com

!!!!!!!

!!!!!!! INDEED!

I nearly lost my first one too when the hair like antenna broke off in flight.
It circled around for about 3 minutes until I finally snagged it again. If it had
been trimmed straight it would have been long gone.

One of the first things I do now is solder a slightly heavier wire as close to
the RX as possible and then put a dab of glue on it to keep it from being pulled
out. Also make it about 6 inches longer than the original. I haven't had an out
of range problem since doing this.

you can mod the antenna? man i have never had a range problem. I have had mine 50 or 60 feet in the air 100 feet away in a huge field.

I found the original AA tail boom to be a bit heavy and at first replaced
them with cola straws. I didn't want to take the chance of another antenna
snapping loose so I changed them all to a slightly thicker wire.
When cutting off the tail boom you have to be very carefull not to cut the
wire so close that you can't solder the new wire to it. The original wire does
have a coating of insulation on it so it does have to be removed before
soldering. Usually a little heat will burn it off.
You don't have to solder the new antenna to the RX board. Leave a little
of the exsisting wire and solder to that.
If you don't want to slice open the fuselage you could solder about 4 to 6
inches of wire to the original at the end and then glue it to keep it from
being pulled out.
I know the range seems plenty on the stock AA but all it takes is one swift
wind or thermal to send it packing. I thought the extra length was good
insurance.

Moving the internal weight backwards is the best solution, but nopt very easy to do. It may not be necessary to bend the tail boom, just bend down a portion of the horizontal stabalizer. You will have to cut on the indented lines so that that they will flex easily. Keep in mind that foam will not "remember" the bend and will revert back to near orginal shape in a short time. Sooo--- what I do is cut a small piece of soda can and use as a hinge because it "remembers the bend" and is adjustable. If that is not enough adjustment to fix the nose up condition just add more area to the stab. trim tabs.
Adding weight will fix the stalling condition at the expense of the plane flying faster to gain more lift to make up for the added weight. My way fixes the stall condition by aerodynamics at the expense of using some of the excess thrust that is available.
Porpoising is the same stall problem but not as severe and will be fixed by the above trim tab adjustment.
Don't forget that reangling the motors can over come a slight forward direction problem if rudder trim tab adjustments don't work enough.
To one of the other posts, WD40 is a very bad idea for motors. It works at first but then because it is basically a solvent, turns any oils into gummmy mess later on. Better is penatrating oil or other very light oil such as 3 in one.

On my last post I misspoke-- Should be--To solve the nose up problem the best solution is to move the internal weight "Forewards".

Has anyone heard the new Aero Scout by Flyzone. Maybe looks like a plane worth trying? Heres link http://www.flyzoneplanes.com/airplanes/hcaa1990.html

That looks like a cool plane!

I don't like the TX unit. The plane looks good though. I hope it's built with better wing material than the Ultrix biplane. That thing dents REALLY easily and needs a lot more room than the AA...

Tom

AA is the shiznit!!! Me and 4 others purchased these badboyz and really they are awsome andd you cant beat it for $30. Ive been messing with these 2 i have more then driving my R/C 3.3 jato and 3.3 revo!!! Trust me those are some fun too but just gliding way up there in the sky with the AA is awsome. The range on these things are great. People are like.. Is that a gas plane! Duh~ HEHE awsome recommended to any age person!

Hi. I'm thinking about stacking batteries. I will need a soldering gun. Has anyony tried that cold heat thing? I have my old style soldering gun one from my auto tech days, but am wondering if the cold heat is faster and easier. Also, what flavor of solder?

Mac from AeroAceMods.Com here,

We have busier than ever at AeroAceMods.Com and a lot of that is because of you folks and your crazy love for the Aero Ace! We have a new affiliate program and we are introducing the program to this group and another group/thread on RC Groups first, so that you can have first crack at it and get your links out there.

Our affiliate program pays you for every plane or part that is sold because your referral, up to 13%!! Plus we have a 5% customer for life commission opportunity when in tier 2. We know, you know that this plane practically sells itself in the parks, so we are not doing the typical web affiliate program! Well we are doing that too, but we are also offering you the ability to provide customers with your affiliate id to enter in the Promo Code area during check out. This promo code will insure that you get the correct payout and the NEW customer will get a free AA Clip (worth $5.00). So you might as well bring your affiliate ID to the parks with you and make some money while you fly. Like I mentioned, we also offer the typical web based affiliate program that allows you to link to our site via a text link or banner ad. You still get up to 13% commission on the links. Even links posted here in the forum.

The average order is $75.68. That means you can easily earn $8 while in tier 1 and $10 on each sale while in tier 2. Oh and yes, you can buy from yourself. So if you don't have an AA clip, now is your chance to get one free.

There is also a web based Affiliate Sales Manager area where you can see current commission earned, monthly reports and referral stats.

Recap:
Free to join.
10 to 13% Commission
5% customer for life commissions while in tier 2
30 day tracking cookie.
Monthly payment via PayPal or check
Buy from yourself.
We based tracking interface.
Make some money while you fly with your affiliate ID by pointing customers on to us.
We handle all the details, we ship the product, me make the kits & we handle the customer service.

Here is the link, it is not yet available from the website menu because, like I said we are releasing it to you folks first. If you have any questions, please contact us at [email protected] or 1-877-AEROMODS

http://www.aeroacemods.com/affiliate/

Mac M.
www.aeroacemods.com

All right, I'm also thinking about canards on the monoplane version. Flexed balsa.

All right, I clipped the tail of a balsa model and taped to the front of my 06 AA monoplane. I had better control, less diving, and maintained climb speed. I did not wire the canards to the body. I will do that tomorrow. So far canards look good. Tim

WD40 does have a great lubricant in the form of a silicone based product.
Any type of oil attracts dirt and is not good for electric motors. I've used
liquid silicone on wheel bearings and axles and it does not attract dirt.
[link=http://www.usahardware.com/inet/shop/item/04110/icn/20-683235/wd-40/10041.htm]silicone spray[/link]

since I know a bit about bikes, I can tell something about lubes...if you go to any decnt bike shop, somebody can help you with what you're looking for. In mine, WD-40 is the enemy to bikes mainly because it is water based. It really doesn't attract dirt much because of the silicon but is not the best of lubes. Makes a good flamethrower, however, with the straw and a match...in bike lube, you want stuff that is either wax or teflon based. The best lube I've ever used that is teflon based, lubes great, and repels dirt is called T-9. You can't find it everywhere but we sell it at Criterium Bikes and I've seen it a Sears!. The next best lube I would say is Tri-Flo. This stuff is also teflon based and repels dirt but doesn't quite have the lubing abilities of T-9. The best wax based product is either White Lightning or the Kry-Tech stuff that I have. Find these only in bike shops. They work well because they dry to a hard coat, just like wax. Only downfall is that the coat is kinda thick. Another fine lube is dry, powdered graphite. This is good for bearings and such...I can only find it in hardware stores. I know I sound like some bike geek, which I guess I am, but I don't mean to come across that way...


PB_2

nothing really to say, but you can't blame me for wanting the 1,000th post can you?!


PB_2