Air Hogs Aero Ace!
#1452
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From: lost coast,
CA
What is the battery mod? Did I miss something? My red plane came down today and has a new issue. I was flying in 8-10 mph winds, loops, snaps, rolls, all good. The being blown onto the roof not so great. But, what I found when I recovered the plane is astounding. I managed to dig a hole almost through the lower wing on both sides. This makes me think that, perhaps, they did alter the foam composition. That would explain the much improved glide ratio. Any other ideas? Anyone elses props eating wings? Tim
#1454
ORIGINAL: FERNDALE AIR FORCE
What is the battery mod?
What is the battery mod?
at the front. Gently remove the battery from the top of the fuselage
and bring it down into the nose section. Some foam must be cut out
first to make room for the battery up front and stitch her back up!
Quite painless actually.
#1455
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From: lost coast,
CA
Better nose weight is the objective? I guess I'm at the why question.
The reason I wanted to post this time, is that I have noticed that the mono mod is not as aerobatic as my last two Bipes. I just took out my mono with canards and did not seem to out perform the new bipes. It may be wear and tear, the mono in question has probably 10-15 hours flight time. And I think that is a low estimate.
However, my last two new planes flew better out of the box, stunt better in or out of wind, and have better better glide ratios. I guess until the props drill holes in the bottom wing, they will continue to be bipes.
The reason I wanted to post this time, is that I have noticed that the mono mod is not as aerobatic as my last two Bipes. I just took out my mono with canards and did not seem to out perform the new bipes. It may be wear and tear, the mono in question has probably 10-15 hours flight time. And I think that is a low estimate.
However, my last two new planes flew better out of the box, stunt better in or out of wind, and have better better glide ratios. I guess until the props drill holes in the bottom wing, they will continue to be bipes.
#1456
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From: Overland Park, KS
ferndale, if you don't want the holes in the bottom wing then just put packing tape over the spot where the motors will hit. it's clear and it protects it some.
#1457
ORIGINAL: FERNDALE AIR FORCE
Better nose weight is the objective? I guess I'm at the why question....
Better nose weight is the objective? I guess I'm at the why question....
#1458
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From: lost coast,
CA
well I'm using scotch tape, same result, and I think less weight. Thanks for the tip. Can I assume that you are having the same thing occuring on your planes?
A bit of nostalgia, if in so short a period it could happen, go back and read some of the early posts about flight times. I just flew for 15 minutes with my new plane, no mods. I think some of those posters were extremely proud of 5-8 minute flights. AA's have come a long way, baby. Tim
A bit of nostalgia, if in so short a period it could happen, go back and read some of the early posts about flight times. I just flew for 15 minutes with my new plane, no mods. I think some of those posters were extremely proud of 5-8 minute flights. AA's have come a long way, baby. Tim
#1459
ORIGINAL: micro_builder
here ya go. i drew this up a while ago cause i knew i'd need it at some point, its proven itself worthwhile more than a few times!
nick
here ya go. i drew this up a while ago cause i knew i'd need it at some point, its proven itself worthwhile more than a few times!
nick
That's a pretty tight space to get the wire in. I may have to get a smaller soldering iron.
#1460
ORIGINAL: Neurotex
GTX, can't you take a peek at one of your other planes?
GTX, can't you take a peek at one of your other planes?
#1461
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From: North Yorks, UNITED KINGDOM
Hey all! 
This is my first RCUniverse post! I haven’t checked all 59 pages (!!!!!) about the X-Wing Mini Bipe – I got mine for just £15 from Maplin Electronics here in the UK.
My contribution is this – to bend the plastic tail-boom for glide control, hold it in the steam from a kettle for a few seconds, then bend a TINY amount and try the glide. It’s very easy to over-do it. Obviously keep the steam away from the electronics.
Now my question is this – (probably answered somewhere in the 58 pages above!!) – has anyone tried NiCads/ NiMhs in the Tx on the X-Wing? I’ve got through quite a few Duracells since I got mine – the little sucker seems to eat them!
Cheers
AyrtonS

This is my first RCUniverse post! I haven’t checked all 59 pages (!!!!!) about the X-Wing Mini Bipe – I got mine for just £15 from Maplin Electronics here in the UK.
My contribution is this – to bend the plastic tail-boom for glide control, hold it in the steam from a kettle for a few seconds, then bend a TINY amount and try the glide. It’s very easy to over-do it. Obviously keep the steam away from the electronics.
Now my question is this – (probably answered somewhere in the 58 pages above!!) – has anyone tried NiCads/ NiMhs in the Tx on the X-Wing? I’ve got through quite a few Duracells since I got mine – the little sucker seems to eat them!
Cheers
AyrtonS

#1462
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From: Overland Park, KS
ayrtons, welcome to RCU!!!! yes people do use rechargable batteries (nimh) i don't think anybody uses nicds but nimhs would probably be better anyway. there are a lot of people that use them including me. they work great and when they die you just recharge, its easy and cheap
. i use rechargable batteries in everything i have except for robosapien.
. i use rechargable batteries in everything i have except for robosapien.
#1463
I've finally found a way to mount these motors to be able
to adjust them in the field in just seconds. I could kick myself
for not thinking of it before.
Hot glue the motor to a hard balsa stick, notch the stick at the
ends, and then mount it to the wing using a rubber band. Much
the same way they mount wings to a fuselage.
Now you can easily move the motors to any spot along the wing,
at any angle and adjust the steering in an instant. Shims can be
cut and tested without gluing or taping to move the motors up
or down. All done without a tear down in just seconds.
Should have some pics of it later.
On foam wings care should be taken not to notch the wing but
scotch tape could be applied to the trailing edge to prevent that.
Like Ted Nugent says, "it's so simple it's stupid!"
to adjust them in the field in just seconds. I could kick myself
for not thinking of it before.
Hot glue the motor to a hard balsa stick, notch the stick at the
ends, and then mount it to the wing using a rubber band. Much
the same way they mount wings to a fuselage.
Now you can easily move the motors to any spot along the wing,
at any angle and adjust the steering in an instant. Shims can be
cut and tested without gluing or taping to move the motors up
or down. All done without a tear down in just seconds.
Should have some pics of it later.
On foam wings care should be taken not to notch the wing but
scotch tape could be applied to the trailing edge to prevent that.
Like Ted Nugent says, "it's so simple it's stupid!"
#1464
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From: Poughkeepsie,
NY
ORIGINAL: Neurotex
I've finally found a way to mount these motors to be able
to adjust them in the field in just seconds. I could kick myself
for not thinking of it before.
Hot glue the motor to a hard balsa stick, notch the stick at the
ends, and then mount it to the wing using a rubber band. Much
the same way they mount wings to a fuselage.
Now you can easily move the motors to any spot along the wing,
at any angle and adjust the steering in an instant. Shims can be
cut and tested without gluing or taping to move the motors up
or down. All done without a tear down in just seconds.
Should have some pics of it later.
On foam wings care should be taken not to notch the wing but
scotch tape could be applied to the trailing edge to prevent that.
Like Ted Nugent says, "it's so simple it's stupid!"
I've finally found a way to mount these motors to be able
to adjust them in the field in just seconds. I could kick myself
for not thinking of it before.
Hot glue the motor to a hard balsa stick, notch the stick at the
ends, and then mount it to the wing using a rubber band. Much
the same way they mount wings to a fuselage.
Now you can easily move the motors to any spot along the wing,
at any angle and adjust the steering in an instant. Shims can be
cut and tested without gluing or taping to move the motors up
or down. All done without a tear down in just seconds.
Should have some pics of it later.
On foam wings care should be taken not to notch the wing but
scotch tape could be applied to the trailing edge to prevent that.
Like Ted Nugent says, "it's so simple it's stupid!"
Good job! Oh, Uncle Ted is great!
Tom
#1465

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From: ballard, WV
DO NOT BUY THE B2 STEALTH DO NOT BUY THIS THING IS JUNK
ORIGINAL: Neurotex
Saw this [link=http://www.flyingtoys.co.uk/planes.html]A6 Intruder[/link]
at K marts the other day. 2 channel, ducted fan, flys 10 mins on a charge
but takes 15 mins to charge. No price on it and I didn't ask.
They also had some old AA's there.
GTX, can't you take a peek at one of your other planes?
Saw this [link=http://www.flyingtoys.co.uk/planes.html]A6 Intruder[/link]
at K marts the other day. 2 channel, ducted fan, flys 10 mins on a charge
but takes 15 mins to charge. No price on it and I didn't ask.
They also had some old AA's there.
GTX, can't you take a peek at one of your other planes?
#1466
ORIGINAL: Tommyr
Oh, Uncle Ted is great!
Oh, Uncle Ted is great!
The new motor mounts work great. I could have used a thinner rubber
band which I think would help especially on a foam wing. It's very
stable and won't move around while in flight. Also add a small brace
to keep the motor in place and the prop from being pulled into the wing.
#1467
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From: lost coast,
CA
The AA's on amazon with no pic's are apparently jets. I took a guess and I recieved the jet today. Mine is the black/gold b channel. It is charging now. More info later.



#1469
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From: lost coast,
CA
it flies crappy. It has new motors, and it sounds like they turn faster. But the plane takes a hard left no matter what I do. I am going to try the controller that came with it and see if that helps. If that doesn't work I'll fly it again later when the breeze has died down. However, I might just have a bad one. When I first spun up the motors the left motor stalled. I switched the trim around and got them sounding equal, but I don't know if that solved the problem or exaccerbated it. There are no manual adjustments built in. I know I can cut the rudders and add some, but I have to decide if that is what I want to do.[
][
]
If there is a company rep reading this: I am deciding whether or not to return this product. It appears that amazon is watching your product to see if they will continue to offer it. If there is a way to fix this without going to amazon let me know. No names will be divulged.
Tim
][
]If there is a company rep reading this: I am deciding whether or not to return this product. It appears that amazon is watching your product to see if they will continue to offer it. If there is a way to fix this without going to amazon let me know. No names will be divulged.
Tim
#1471
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From: lost coast,
CA
Update on the jet. I used the controller in the box and it flew well. My other b controller is my oldest, and perchance the batteries are getting low.
This airplane flies and launches differently than the bipe. A low to mid throttle will get it up and it needs more airspace. Maybe a third again as much as the bipe. This is all preliminary, by the way. Once it is up it has similar flight characteristics to a mono with canards, but is faster. It seems to be a bit heavy and needs more room to turn. I have one more trick to try, but I think it is a keeper.


Also makes me think I should check the batteries in my c controller. Maybe the other plane isn't worn out. Tim
This airplane flies and launches differently than the bipe. A low to mid throttle will get it up and it needs more airspace. Maybe a third again as much as the bipe. This is all preliminary, by the way. Once it is up it has similar flight characteristics to a mono with canards, but is faster. It seems to be a bit heavy and needs more room to turn. I have one more trick to try, but I think it is a keeper.



Also makes me think I should check the batteries in my c controller. Maybe the other plane isn't worn out. Tim
#1472
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From: lost coast,
CA
rc these motors are longer and thinner and sound like they have more rpm's. I think it is a pilot/controller issue. I have not yet flown out my initial charge and as I learn I am posting. So far: needs more room to manuever, flies similar to a mono mod, flies completely different compared to a bipe. more inf to follow. Tim
#1474
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From: lost coast,
CA
I apologize for posting so often, but I'm finding things out quickly tonight. My old b controller would fly my new b bipe. But when I used the new controller it flew better. Perhaps the controllers were also updated. I have been flying with my older controller because the batteries were already in them. It appears to have been a mistake. Tim
#1475
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From: Fort Worth,
TX
the jets have a wider turning radius because of their delta wing design coupled with the thrust differential steering. you could take out some of the dihedral in the wings and it would probably turn quicker, but it would also be easier for it to spiral in. as for the motors, i havent seen them yet, but if they're just a bit bigger than the AAs, they're probably 7mm motors, like those in the Super Slick cars sold at Toys R Us. those motors are great, btw, i wonder what the ohm rating is on the ones in the jets...
anyway, i flew this little thing today, a B2 Bomber, made by the company ITC (they make the BladeRunner heli). it was just a FF plane, but i gutted it and slapped in the AA guts. getting the CG was tricky, as was launching it, since i had to toss it from the wing tip (there's nothing to grab under the plane). 16.9 grams with everything installed, and it would climb like mad if i give it full throttle. fun little plane. i got one for 10 bucks at K-mart on sale (i knew that store was good for something). i dont have any pics with the AA electronics installed, but the motors are mounted in front, as is the RX, and the lipo sits quite a ways towards the back.
nick
anyway, i flew this little thing today, a B2 Bomber, made by the company ITC (they make the BladeRunner heli). it was just a FF plane, but i gutted it and slapped in the AA guts. getting the CG was tricky, as was launching it, since i had to toss it from the wing tip (there's nothing to grab under the plane). 16.9 grams with everything installed, and it would climb like mad if i give it full throttle. fun little plane. i got one for 10 bucks at K-mart on sale (i knew that store was good for something). i dont have any pics with the AA electronics installed, but the motors are mounted in front, as is the RX, and the lipo sits quite a ways towards the back.
nick


