Which T-REX?? Too many different ones????
#1
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From: , MA
Hi,
I"m new to RC Helicopters and would like to purchase my first heli. I was originally going to get a Blade CP but this weekend I went to a Heli meet in my area and the T-rex's seemed very stable. Much more than the CP's. Everyone I spoke with said the T-rex's are easier to fly than a CP. I'm not 100% sure if I'll bypass the CP yet but started to look into the T-rex further online.
Here's what I've found. There are several different models.
450X
450XL
450SA
450SE
Which would you recommend for a beginner? Also if this helps I'd like to get the Spectrum radio DX6 since I have a spectrum for my RC car. (love it)
My main priority is durability. I love the SE version, but not sure if that's practical since I'm a beginner. Would it cost more if I crashed an SE or something less expensive like an X or XL? Or would the SE be cheaper to repair since the common damaged parts are aluminum, etc?
Thanks in advance.
Eric
I"m new to RC Helicopters and would like to purchase my first heli. I was originally going to get a Blade CP but this weekend I went to a Heli meet in my area and the T-rex's seemed very stable. Much more than the CP's. Everyone I spoke with said the T-rex's are easier to fly than a CP. I'm not 100% sure if I'll bypass the CP yet but started to look into the T-rex further online.
Here's what I've found. There are several different models.
450X
450XL
450SA
450SE
Which would you recommend for a beginner? Also if this helps I'd like to get the Spectrum radio DX6 since I have a spectrum for my RC car. (love it)
My main priority is durability. I love the SE version, but not sure if that's practical since I'm a beginner. Would it cost more if I crashed an SE or something less expensive like an X or XL? Or would the SE be cheaper to repair since the common damaged parts are aluminum, etc?
Thanks in advance.
Eric
#2
SE if you can afford it, but the XL is nice, but needs a metal swash plate, and a couple other up-grades to keep it flying awesome. And the SA is the ARF slightly up-graded version of the XL, you decide.
#3
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From: , WA
X is an older model, better to go with XL. And yes the XL is all plastic parts that over time you may wish to upgrade....or spend the big bucks all at once and get the SE or the new ARF SA which has a lot of metal parts. As far as the DX-6 goes, I have one in my XL and love it. The heavy duty flyers will quickly comment that it only has 3 point curves instead of 5 for pitch and throttle setup. If you are starting out you probably won't notice the difference. I started with a Blade CP and the TREX XL flys sooo much easier and better. Glad I started with a Blade 'cause now I really appreciate what a nice helo the Trex is.
Another advantage to the DX-6 is its TOTAL lack of glitching and interference from the other components in the helo. Radio interference is a big problem for a lot of people in helos because everything is packed close together. With the DX-6 it doesn't seem to matter.
There is a way to have your cake and eat it to. A JR radion XL6102 will accept the transmitter board from a DX-6 and now you can have 5 point curves and some other nice programming features for helos found in the radio. But that is something for down the road....by then there may be other options.
Watch out for package deals in any of the Trex models. The best basic motor is the Align 430L. The gyro of choice is the Futaba GY401 and the ESC should be rated at 35 amps. Castle Creatons seems to be the one of choice. If you save money by purchasing a package with other than these items you may end up buying these as upgrades to arrive at what you need/want. Read all about others experiences in these matters on various forums.
Other than this one, here is a good place.
http://helifreak.com/
Another advantage to the DX-6 is its TOTAL lack of glitching and interference from the other components in the helo. Radio interference is a big problem for a lot of people in helos because everything is packed close together. With the DX-6 it doesn't seem to matter.
There is a way to have your cake and eat it to. A JR radion XL6102 will accept the transmitter board from a DX-6 and now you can have 5 point curves and some other nice programming features for helos found in the radio. But that is something for down the road....by then there may be other options.
Watch out for package deals in any of the Trex models. The best basic motor is the Align 430L. The gyro of choice is the Futaba GY401 and the ESC should be rated at 35 amps. Castle Creatons seems to be the one of choice. If you save money by purchasing a package with other than these items you may end up buying these as upgrades to arrive at what you need/want. Read all about others experiences in these matters on various forums.
Other than this one, here is a good place.
http://helifreak.com/
#4
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From: Winchester,
VA
I haven't heard of anyone having glitching probs using a JR PCM Rx in the Rex. Interference could still be a prob though.
Until a higher class radio comes out the Spektrum technology is a no go for me. I love my JR 8103 Tx and have retired all my 6 channel radios in favor of it.
Until a higher class radio comes out the Spektrum technology is a no go for me. I love my JR 8103 Tx and have retired all my 6 channel radios in favor of it.
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From: Chicago,
IL, WESTERN SAHARA
Hello, All newbies and intermediate pilots should be starting with a T Rex 450 xl CDE or HDE.
They fly great and the plastic parts are cheap to replace. The bling bling parts do enhance
performance for a PRO heli pilot, only. Aluminum parts are merely a conversation piece
or mental mod for anyone not doing serious 3D. Aluminum parts can actually hinder the learning
curve. In the back of your mind your thinking about all the money you spent while you are flying.
With plastic parts and wood rotor blades there is little regret when you slam the ground, just a big
smile as you pick up the pieces and calculate that it will only cost $40 to rebuild.
2c
Fly it don't upgrade it.
They fly great and the plastic parts are cheap to replace. The bling bling parts do enhance
performance for a PRO heli pilot, only. Aluminum parts are merely a conversation piece
or mental mod for anyone not doing serious 3D. Aluminum parts can actually hinder the learning
curve. In the back of your mind your thinking about all the money you spent while you are flying.
With plastic parts and wood rotor blades there is little regret when you slam the ground, just a big
smile as you pick up the pieces and calculate that it will only cost $40 to rebuild.

2c
Fly it don't upgrade it.
#6
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From: Winchester,
VA
I agree with Ultraviolet until you get passed basic forward flight(FF). My Trex XL HDE would not track properly, it always wanted to climb upright and inverted and it was quite sloppy. Then I found plastic parts breaking/cracking in flight. After going to a full metal head all the slop is gone, no parts are breaking and tracking is very nice.
I am not into bling at all. All I want is good flight performance. Form follows function for me hands down. I had almost $10k in my 78 Bronco and the body still looked like crap, but it would go anywhere anytime in any weather. Hehehe 48" of snow was nothing at all.
I am not into bling at all. All I want is good flight performance. Form follows function for me hands down. I had almost $10k in my 78 Bronco and the body still looked like crap, but it would go anywhere anytime in any weather. Hehehe 48" of snow was nothing at all.




