Ok guys, I have developed a new theory over the weekend. In recent weeks, I have much maligned the HL Tiger for obvious track problems. But now I have come to a different conclusion. I think all radio controlled Tiger models have track problems! (although I can't speak for Tamiya). Is it possible that a scaled down vehicle would inherit all the traits of the full size? Case in point is my new Marui Tiger, which I was excited about, until this weekend. I had been running the tank inside, and everything was great. I took it outside for a bit of bashing, and things went downhill. On the plus side, the tank climbs like a mountain goat -- the Tiger is geared really low. Another positive is, it's not as fast as it seems inside -- speed seems scale, as my VS Leopard will leave it in the dust (as it should be in real life). However, the big downside is -- it throws tracks EXACTLY like the HL Tiger. Does the very same thing. They come off the outside of the front sproket first, and then somehow, they do the same thing the HLs do -- come off the rear idler. Very disappointing. It also makes me rethink the whole HL Tiger thing -- maybe I was too quick to give up. My question is this -- are we just not driving our tanks in a very "scale" like manner -- i.e., are we trying to turn too sharp in high traction areas?

Hi try putting the a extra spare link in the tracks they will get very lose i did this to mine and it worked better.

if it's to lose you may want to take the tank apart and losen the rear tensioner on both sides of the rear axle and push it all the way farward and use the tank with how many links it came with stock.

Look how lose mine our... a hair tighter would be better maybe but i am to lazy to take it apart and adjust it!

Hallo,

You should use a chain adjuster for real scale feeling ...

A problem of the HL is moreover that you have to adjust the "guide wheel" in one line with the middle "running wheels" ... use grommets ...

Happy tank driving !

Tanks, from full scale on down, face similar problems. The newer tanks have fewer incidences of trowing tracks, but still, driven in the right terrain while turning, especially at high speed, the M1A2 and other modern tanks will throw tracks.

To a large degree, if you drive your scale tank to scale speed over scale terrain (yes, scale terrain like finer sand rather than the gravel you might have on a driveway), then chances of throwing a track is reduced.

The other factor is the weight of the track itself. I believe that the original intent of the design for Tigers was to allow the weight of the track to "self guide" along the road wheels. (You can see this in the photos, or at least I hope it's obvious). Thus, the "slack" appearance compared with the appearanc of tracks on tanks that relied on Track Return Rollers (the smaller wheels at the top, like the Sherman and Stuart have -- See attached photo for comparison). However, the faster you drive the Tiger, the less weight you will have for self guiding along the road wheels. Add this phenomenon to the fact that you may have plastic (much lighter) tracks, plus you may be driving out of scale and on terrain that may pick up stones, sticks, leaves, grass, etc. in "off scale" ways, then your chances of throwing tracks shoots to the top of the scale.

Perhaps this is why I prefer the larger scale models (mine is 1/8, KT). Each track weighs around 10lbs and performs like the original King Tiger, laying correctly and self-guiding along the road wheels. Also, I try to limit its driving speed to scale speed, not exceeding about 20 mph (to scale). I can throw tracks if I turn in gravel, which will tend to pick up larger stones, carrying those into the idler, and cause the track to slip from its guide channel.

Anyway, I believe the problem is scale usage more than anything else.

Hope this helped.

I've never thrown a track with mine but I have cracked the track where the pin is secured...

I believe that is from too tight tention on the track...

Good points. I actually think the r/c tanks do depict the real tanks very accurately in performance. For example, my VS Leopard has never had track problems, as I assume the real Leopard has very few problems.

Titan: I think you're right. The newer armor designs have tricked out most of the track problems. Actually, it's because of the old fashioned engineering that I enjoy the WWII RC models. They're more of a challenge.

Cheers....

Titan try the tracks lose it worked for me i think what it does is let the tracks lay on the tops of the wheels and it guids them better ..when they are tight they tend to float and derail.

Correct and accurate track teething is critical to proper running to avoid throwing a track.

Being a Tamiya owner the Tiger is one of the best for keeping its tracks on during rough driving. The tracks and sprocket are well engineered in the Tamiya kit such that aftermarket tracks sometimes get thrown if they are not truely accurate copies of the Tamiya tracks. In general the metal tracks do have more tendancy to throw over the plastic as the metal weight really out-proportions the plastic model wieght.

The high speed tracking of modern tanks requires different engineering than the slower WWII tanks where the track is supported and kept under continuous tension.

That's something I forgot to mention and Eric does a nice job of it.

With the track off, visually check the alignment of the idler track guide channel with the channels of the road wheels. If they don't line up near perfectly, you'll throw tracks pretty consistently.

If the idler shaft is bent or loose, it may not align with the road wheels.

Cheers...