Clean, Light, Simple, UNBENDABLE Flybar
#1
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 1,325
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: GARDEN CITY,
KS
http://image2-6.rcuniverse.com/e1/ga.../lg-119081.jpg
http://image2-6.rcuniverse.com/e1/ga.../lg-119079.jpg
I want to share this with My Friends, here at R/C Universe.
Order the XTREME Aluminum Flybar Hub from an XTREME dealer. Finally, we can get just the hub! !
Get some Carbon Fiber rod that fits snugly into the threaded ends; it is .060 or 1.5mm.
Rough cut two rods; epoxy inside the hub and press the rods as far as they will go. They fit nicely and will go in deep! I used 5 minute epoxy.
After glue sets up; Use calipers or a ruler to measure and scratch where to cut at the outer ends, and cut them to exactly the same length.
Add weights and You are done. (You may need to sand the outer area where the collars, etc. will go).
Mine is 1 Gram lighter than stock with 3 weights on them!
It is 4 Grams lighter than what I had, in order to get the same stability as the stock, using 3 collars on a chopped stock steel and plastic flybar, and the c.f. tubing re-inforcement.
It is UNBENDABLE, and will flex and snap back; it's definately rigid enought, but will flex when it needs to.
It is self aligning! Because it flexes slightly, even if it isn't 100% perfectly straight (and nothing is) the centrifugal force will do it for You!
Mine flies like a dream being just 5mm shorter each end and with 3 collars; and 4 Grams is ALOT to drop!
Oh, Yea,
Looks very nice. Great low profile !
http://image2-6.rcuniverse.com/e1/ga.../lg-119079.jpg
I want to share this with My Friends, here at R/C Universe.
Order the XTREME Aluminum Flybar Hub from an XTREME dealer. Finally, we can get just the hub! !
Get some Carbon Fiber rod that fits snugly into the threaded ends; it is .060 or 1.5mm.
Rough cut two rods; epoxy inside the hub and press the rods as far as they will go. They fit nicely and will go in deep! I used 5 minute epoxy.
After glue sets up; Use calipers or a ruler to measure and scratch where to cut at the outer ends, and cut them to exactly the same length.
Add weights and You are done. (You may need to sand the outer area where the collars, etc. will go).
Mine is 1 Gram lighter than stock with 3 weights on them!
It is 4 Grams lighter than what I had, in order to get the same stability as the stock, using 3 collars on a chopped stock steel and plastic flybar, and the c.f. tubing re-inforcement.
It is UNBENDABLE, and will flex and snap back; it's definately rigid enought, but will flex when it needs to.
It is self aligning! Because it flexes slightly, even if it isn't 100% perfectly straight (and nothing is) the centrifugal force will do it for You!
Mine flies like a dream being just 5mm shorter each end and with 3 collars; and 4 Grams is ALOT to drop!
Oh, Yea,
Looks very nice. Great low profile !
#2
Gary,
Very nice job as usual. I like it.
I've been PMing Michael about the Xtreme flybar parts; hub, shafts and linkages.
Is there any way for you to determine if that hub will work with a MicroHeli upper head?
If it will fit on the stock upper it will probably work. Although I will have to use, at least, the stock lower part of the linkage to fit the stock blade balls.
Expect a PM from me soon.
Very nice job as usual. I like it.
I've been PMing Michael about the Xtreme flybar parts; hub, shafts and linkages.
Is there any way for you to determine if that hub will work with a MicroHeli upper head?
If it will fit on the stock upper it will probably work. Although I will have to use, at least, the stock lower part of the linkage to fit the stock blade balls.
Expect a PM from me soon.
#3
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 1,325
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: GARDEN CITY,
KS
Wolf,
All I can tell You is that it fits very nicely in the XTREME upper head, but it looks stock dimensions, and the stock set up I had before this fit as well. I'll measure and edit this post.
UPDATE: Measures the same. I will tell You that the XTREME ball linkages WILL NOT work with the XTREME blade grips; too tight of fit, but You could mate the stock LOWER ball link to the XTREME upper ball linkage.
The Stock flybar linkage works fine with this aluminum hub.
It was designed for the lighted flybar.
Gary
All I can tell You is that it fits very nicely in the XTREME upper head, but it looks stock dimensions, and the stock set up I had before this fit as well. I'll measure and edit this post.
UPDATE: Measures the same. I will tell You that the XTREME ball linkages WILL NOT work with the XTREME blade grips; too tight of fit, but You could mate the stock LOWER ball link to the XTREME upper ball linkage.
The Stock flybar linkage works fine with this aluminum hub.
It was designed for the lighted flybar.
Gary
#5
http://www.ushobbysupply.com/index.p...sort=2a&page=1
http://shop.boomtownhobbies.com/main.sc
Both companies have grade A service.
#6
Member
My Feedback: (5)
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 60
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Brisbane, AUSTRALIA
Many thanks for sharing that with us Goldslinger... you could easily have made money from that... I'm certainly going to make one for my cx-2, tired of replacing everso slightly bent fly bars....
cheers,
brett
cheers,
brett
#7
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 149
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Valencia,
CA
Regarding the Xtreme Aluminum Flybar hub, I spoke to Jamie at Boomtown and they have them in stock. They are also now on the website. Thanks eat2muchrice!
For those of you that haven't purchased from BoomtownHobbies.com, check out their site. Jamie the owner answers the phone, is very knowledgable about the CX2, and will help you a great deal as far as parts and setup. They are very quick at shipping orders as well. They also have lots of parts that aren't listed so give him a call if you need something that you don't see.
For those of you that haven't purchased from BoomtownHobbies.com, check out their site. Jamie the owner answers the phone, is very knowledgable about the CX2, and will help you a great deal as far as parts and setup. They are very quick at shipping orders as well. They also have lots of parts that aren't listed so give him a call if you need something that you don't see.
#8
Goldslinger, your flybar "rocks"! I'm loving the tunability afforded by this upgrade, thanks for sharing it's design with all[8D]
#9
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 1,325
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: GARDEN CITY,
KS
Wow!
An old post revived! Thanks for the kind words.
You can see what My excitement was all about then.
I've had people ask Me to sell them to them, but they are so ridiculously simple to make that I would feel guilty.
I can only speak for Myself, but I haven't broke Mine yet; still on the original.
Enjoy the savings and Freedom!
Gary
An old post revived! Thanks for the kind words.
You can see what My excitement was all about then.
I've had people ask Me to sell them to them, but they are so ridiculously simple to make that I would feel guilty.
I can only speak for Myself, but I haven't broke Mine yet; still on the original.
Enjoy the savings and Freedom!
Gary
#10
Member
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 90
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Charlotte,
NC
Is it nessesary to drill thru the hub to use a 1-piece rod? I believe someone here did this. Also, will the flybar hub work with the E-Flite alum blade holder?
#11
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 1,325
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: GARDEN CITY,
KS
Not necessary at all, but a fellow did. You have to drill VERY straight, and the holes that are already there are.
I did the 2 piece method and used 5 minute epoxy to give Me a couple of minutes to get each one perfectly straight. If You bought the right size rod; it will fit rather snugly and mostly if not fully True itself. Hold a straightedge against the hub while the glued half is in place, rotate the assy. around looking at the parallel of the rod and the little air between the ruler and c.f. rod half and make minute adjustments and as the glue gets stickier, it will hold where You adjust it.
Then, ready to fly in about 20 minutes. Since the openings of the aluminum hub are threaded, it really gives the epoxy something to grab onto, and epoxy really sticks good to carbon fiber.
The beauty of it is that even if it isn't PERFECTLY straight, it flexes the tiniest amount enough to straighten itself when You spool up.
The straighter You get it, the better though.
I cut mine 5mm shorter per side and put the vortex weights on which are slightly heavier than stock making the whole assy. about the same weight as stock, but the shorter length cures You know what and STILL gives You rock solid hovers and good forward manueverability, I've found.
Gary
I did the 2 piece method and used 5 minute epoxy to give Me a couple of minutes to get each one perfectly straight. If You bought the right size rod; it will fit rather snugly and mostly if not fully True itself. Hold a straightedge against the hub while the glued half is in place, rotate the assy. around looking at the parallel of the rod and the little air between the ruler and c.f. rod half and make minute adjustments and as the glue gets stickier, it will hold where You adjust it.
Then, ready to fly in about 20 minutes. Since the openings of the aluminum hub are threaded, it really gives the epoxy something to grab onto, and epoxy really sticks good to carbon fiber.
The beauty of it is that even if it isn't PERFECTLY straight, it flexes the tiniest amount enough to straighten itself when You spool up.
The straighter You get it, the better though.
I cut mine 5mm shorter per side and put the vortex weights on which are slightly heavier than stock making the whole assy. about the same weight as stock, but the shorter length cures You know what and STILL gives You rock solid hovers and good forward manueverability, I've found.
Gary
#12
Member
My Feedback: (2)
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 50
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: , MO
this is probably a stupid ?, but i dont understand how u hook up the linkage to the blades. this sounds fatastic but i dont get that part of it. thanks newone schreydog
#13
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 149
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Valencia,
CA
goldslinger
We seem to have lots of experience with the CX2. I have 2 CX2 versions:
1st version - all Xtreme - Xtreme tail boom, skids, canopy, CNC blade grips, Upper extended rotor, Xtreme blades, and the 180 stock motors, all eFlite aluminum except for the upper rotor hub, vortex fly bar
2nd version - all eFlite aluminum, stock front canopy, vortex plastic grips, Xtreme blades, Boomtown tail boom and unbreakable skids, stock OEM motors (much more agile and quick)
Both fly very well and hover like champs. The swash plate is level with the control rods in the 3rd position. There is absolutely no TBE. I have even move the electronics around have equal weight distribution left to right. However, when I want aggressive forward flight, they both fly a bit sideways and to the left. It looks like they both lean down and to the left when I apply forward elevator. However, I can get them to fly perfectly straight and level with the nose pointing straight if I also apply a little aileron to the right.
Is this normal because of the way the swash plate is set up of can I adjust some of this out with either the proportional mix or gain?
We seem to have lots of experience with the CX2. I have 2 CX2 versions:
1st version - all Xtreme - Xtreme tail boom, skids, canopy, CNC blade grips, Upper extended rotor, Xtreme blades, and the 180 stock motors, all eFlite aluminum except for the upper rotor hub, vortex fly bar
2nd version - all eFlite aluminum, stock front canopy, vortex plastic grips, Xtreme blades, Boomtown tail boom and unbreakable skids, stock OEM motors (much more agile and quick)
Both fly very well and hover like champs. The swash plate is level with the control rods in the 3rd position. There is absolutely no TBE. I have even move the electronics around have equal weight distribution left to right. However, when I want aggressive forward flight, they both fly a bit sideways and to the left. It looks like they both lean down and to the left when I apply forward elevator. However, I can get them to fly perfectly straight and level with the nose pointing straight if I also apply a little aileron to the right.
Is this normal because of the way the swash plate is set up of can I adjust some of this out with either the proportional mix or gain?
#14
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 1,325
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: GARDEN CITY,
KS
My uneducated guess would be that the upper blades catch more resistance being at the leading edge at the FF angle of attack than the lower ones do, thus reducing the r.p.m. slightly allowing the lower blades to govern more and give it it's slight left tendancy.
On the more expensive helis; the CCPM machines like a B400 or T-REX, you have a much higher headspeed and can compensate for alot of things in the TX, and if You have a DX-7 (which is the best upgrade one can do to the CX) then I thinkYou can program some mixing; limited, but some, nonetheless, so that the aileron servo pulls down ever so slightly when the elevator servo is shoved way forward to compensate.
I haven't tried it, as You have to set up the CX as a heli, and it's far easier to set it is an airplane. There's a way to do it, but I haven't tried it yet. I've heard of some people doing it.
Even when You set it up like an airplane, You can set throttle, aileron, elevator exponentials to equalize servo travel or soften it in the middle, etc. That part is easy to do. I believe You can do throttle curves as well; but I haven't played with the CX for awhile now, as I'm still having a blast with the 450 I built a month ago. I'm able to fly circuits and nose in hovering now, so it's getting more and more fun!
If You want to stay in the hobby, then get a DX-7! ! Or purchase a Blade 400 which comes with a DX-6i which I believe can do most all a DX-7 can, but someone else will have to say for sure. They are SUPER EASY to program and You will love it! !
I say just fly it; even hovers require input, and since it is in Your Concious mind, You know how to compensate already and Your brain is the best and fastest computer. Master Your Aircraft!
Gary
On the more expensive helis; the CCPM machines like a B400 or T-REX, you have a much higher headspeed and can compensate for alot of things in the TX, and if You have a DX-7 (which is the best upgrade one can do to the CX) then I thinkYou can program some mixing; limited, but some, nonetheless, so that the aileron servo pulls down ever so slightly when the elevator servo is shoved way forward to compensate.
I haven't tried it, as You have to set up the CX as a heli, and it's far easier to set it is an airplane. There's a way to do it, but I haven't tried it yet. I've heard of some people doing it.
Even when You set it up like an airplane, You can set throttle, aileron, elevator exponentials to equalize servo travel or soften it in the middle, etc. That part is easy to do. I believe You can do throttle curves as well; but I haven't played with the CX for awhile now, as I'm still having a blast with the 450 I built a month ago. I'm able to fly circuits and nose in hovering now, so it's getting more and more fun!

If You want to stay in the hobby, then get a DX-7! ! Or purchase a Blade 400 which comes with a DX-6i which I believe can do most all a DX-7 can, but someone else will have to say for sure. They are SUPER EASY to program and You will love it! !
I say just fly it; even hovers require input, and since it is in Your Concious mind, You know how to compensate already and Your brain is the best and fastest computer. Master Your Aircraft!

Gary
#15
Member
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 46
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: , NY
This has nothing to do with the post, but I have to say that goldslinger has really put me on the right track for adjusting my cx2, I searched the posts and found the answers to almost all my questions without having to reask the same ones ( I'm sure you don't like to say the same thing over and over). And as far as the cf flybar you should really make a bunch and sell them to Jamie at boomtown I know I would buy one since I'm incompetent in the area of fabrication of such things. So if you would make one let me know I'd buy!
#16
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 1,325
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: GARDEN CITY,
KS
Hey, there Devil.
Now I feel real bad! I remember You P/M ing something to that affect; sorry about not answering You, busy time of the Year for us and Your pm got buried deaper and deaper.
Sorry again. P/M me with Your address again and I'll make one for You.
and thank You for Your kind words. It makes Me want to help; everyone wants to feel appreciated.
Soloboss is another 'Vet' here on E-FLITE, His little inventions, and homemade mods are what spurred Me on!
There were a few regulars here for months, and the phrase 'collective' was born as the ideas flew about madly if You haven't noticed in the older posts. Everything was VERY civil, as well. New people were welcomed with gesto, and We all tiredly answered posts, pasted links. We all tinkered, modified, shared. If someones name was on here, but didn't answer right away, they were flying or modding. Then they'd come back, answer; and fly some more! !
Its alot of fun on here!
Gary
Now I feel real bad! I remember You P/M ing something to that affect; sorry about not answering You, busy time of the Year for us and Your pm got buried deaper and deaper.
Sorry again. P/M me with Your address again and I'll make one for You.
and thank You for Your kind words. It makes Me want to help; everyone wants to feel appreciated.

Soloboss is another 'Vet' here on E-FLITE, His little inventions, and homemade mods are what spurred Me on!
There were a few regulars here for months, and the phrase 'collective' was born as the ideas flew about madly if You haven't noticed in the older posts. Everything was VERY civil, as well. New people were welcomed with gesto, and We all tiredly answered posts, pasted links. We all tinkered, modified, shared. If someones name was on here, but didn't answer right away, they were flying or modding. Then they'd come back, answer; and fly some more! !
Its alot of fun on here!
Gary
#17
Member
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 46
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: , NY
No worries, I'll pm ya, but I hope I didn't start a deluge of people looking for the same, sorry if it happens. I'm sure your life doesn't revolve around answering our noob questions. thx sean
#21
There were a few regulars here for months, and the phrase 'collective' was born as the ideas flew about madly if You haven't noticed in the older posts. Everything was VERY civil, as well. New people were welcomed with gesto, and We all tiredly answered posts, pasted links. We all tinkered, modified, shared. If someones name was on here, but didn't answer right away, they were flying or modding. Then they'd come back, answer; and fly some more! !

You ever thought about our Rex's with this flybar idea ? I'am thinking there is a disadvantage, or you would have...
#22
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 1,325
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: GARDEN CITY,
KS
You know. . .
Believe it or not, I have ! !
HOWEVER, I don't think anything could survive a hit with that much force, but more importantly, I believe that there would be too much flex in that length when the paddles are working hard in cyclic. Now I could be DEAD WRONG.
I'm not saying it wouldn't work, Heck; may try it after all.
If I'm not on the forums for awhile; then You know there's been a BAD accident !
Believe it or not, I have ! !
HOWEVER, I don't think anything could survive a hit with that much force, but more importantly, I believe that there would be too much flex in that length when the paddles are working hard in cyclic. Now I could be DEAD WRONG.
I'm not saying it wouldn't work, Heck; may try it after all.
If I'm not on the forums for awhile; then You know there's been a BAD accident !
#23
Gary ~
Yeah, I already weighed the problems also in doing that, but if I told ya it couldn't be done, then you would just go and find a way to make it work and take on another challenge, and I'am sure your plate is full enough, so don't be getting any ideas mister..........

~ Jeff
Yeah, I already weighed the problems also in doing that, but if I told ya it couldn't be done, then you would just go and find a way to make it work and take on another challenge, and I'am sure your plate is full enough, so don't be getting any ideas mister..........


~ Jeff




