grompix

Hi
For some time I've wanted to replace the ugly Tamiya TBU 'Apples' on my tanks with separate sensors installed more discreetly on the turrets and/or cupolas. Nick C's very useful website shows the TBU schematic and how extra IR detectors can be wired.

http://home.comcast.net/~chioc/TBU.htm

But can anyone advise me on the right type of IR detectors that will work with the TBU?

It's my intention to strip down the TBU 'apple' and wire in extra sensors. I'll probably leave the LEDs as they are.

Many thanks

Chris

Tankhobby

Chris,

You can use any inrared receiver module that's specified for 38kHz. Actually 36kHz and 40kHz units will also work as they fall within the bandwidth of the 38kHz units. Be careful in that the pinouts differ, be sure to check the datasheet on the part you use. The connections are power, ground and output.

Check sites that sell stuff for infrared remote controls.

Here is a 36kHz unit (TSOP2836), the datasheet can be found online (the TSOP2838 is for 38kHz):

http://www.goldmine-elec-products.co...p?number=G6042


Radio shack (#276-640) a bit pricey and you need to remove the metal housing:

http://www.radioshack.com/family/ind...032058.2032230

If you are really stuck and can't find anything over there (UK) let me know and I can buy a few extra on my next purchasing spree.

grompix

Hi Nick

Many thanks for your prompt response. I've had a look to see what I can get hold of on this side of the pond. Here's a link to a product stocked by RS which looks about the same as you describe :-

http://rswww.com/cgi-bin/bv/rswww/se...0&cacheID=ukie

Will this work do you think?

Failing that, I found a TSOP4838 and TSOP1738 at Rapid Electronics.

http://www.rapidonline.com/productin...moduleno=77753

Any of those any good?

Many thanks for your help.

Chris

Tankhobby

First link I had a problem but the second link looks good. The other parameter is that it is active low, meaning the output is high until it receives a valid signal. I haven't come across one that wasn't active low yet.

Double check the pinouts and I suggest twisted wire or even better, shielded cable from the module to the TBU connection.

Keep in mind these can still be saturated by external light where they will not receive a signal, especially outdoors.

grompix

That's great. I'll order a half-dozen or so to try them out (and some shielded cable).
Many thanks for your help Nick.
Chris

darkith

Those are 5V units. The TBU only provides 3.3V to the sensors, and only expects a 3.3v signal. I'd look around some more. I use GP1UE281YK0F in my DBUs.

David

Tankhobby

Oops, sorry I should have checked. The 3V units should be used for replacement in the TBU. I generally use 5V on stuff I make and made a rash assumption.

grompix

OK. I'll change the order. Thanks again chaps.
Chris

TXtanker

Hey while we are on the subject what are the specs for the IR led ..could you imagine replacing the led in the tamiya machine gun with a IR led that would be coooool the bad guys wouldnt have a chance at close range..

darkith

Not quite that simple...the IR LED for the battle system is sending a coded signal. But with a little programming and/or circuit work it can be done.

But, most tankers would consider that cheating....and I don't imagine it would be much fun to battle alone.

D.

heavyaslead

I have experimented with 5 or 6 different LED manufacturers and specs for the IR LED ranging from high output to ordinary TV remote LED's.

Basically the LED largest contribution is the angular field of disperssion but beyond that, there is little operational difference.

Indeed the IR LED emision characteristics are more determined by the circuitry than the LED. There were a couple of maufacturers that (probably from better optics) were able to extend range by 10-25%.