After reading several posts and wandering through a local hobby store, I had an idea for how to make a rubber track pad for my HL Bulldog. Several folks have already tried the stuff for adding rubber handles to tools without success. I saw a post somewhere where someone made some from foam (like the stuff used to make the big fingers at sporting events). And I started that, but the effort of cutting to just the right shape became very tedious and they weren't hard enough to inspire confidence in their longevity.

So, I found this stuff in the hobby store. It's a rubber-toughened CA glue, [link=http://www.bsi-inc.com/Pages/hobby/ca.html]Bob Smith Industry's IC-2000[/link]. Using a toothpick, I basically painted on the glue to each of the track pads on my Bulldog (clean the tracks first, of course).

It appears to offer some slight improvement in traction with no real change in driveability. The appearance is awesome, though. It looks black and like rubber. It also has a slight rubber texture. I haven't done an extended test on how it holds up against concrete or asphalt, but the initial tests look good. ([link=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vo3-fQVt0vM]Video[/link]Video)

Disclaimers: I'm using a standard HL tank (plastic gears, tracks, etc). I haven't done any metal upgrades yet.

It looks like this might be a good way to add that rubber appearance to all of your tracks. The glue is supposed to work on metal, too; so, it should work on the metal tracks as well. If you want more traction, my other idea is to get some (small can for touch-ups) of the polyeurathane used to coat truck beds and paint that onto the tracks (stuff like Rhino Lining). That may be well-suited for metal tracks. Be careful with the additional torque that you would need, though.

One note: make sure that your work area is well ventilated. Of course, I learned that the hard way.

Here's some pictures of the finished product. I haven't taken any post trial photos yet.

That's a great idea! I have used that stuff to repair holes in inner tubes and it's used for RC tire repairs too. How big a bottle did you need to do it?

nice idea...it does add a little more accuracy in track appearance. Do you have the 2 spare blocks next to the driver's hatch?

A great idea and you can get the metal tracks already Black from RCTankWar.com

Special 70.00 includes drive sprockets!

The Blitz

Thanks for the comments guys.

Swathy, I got a 1 oz bottle and have some (less than half) left over after doing two "coats". I needed the second coat because the hole that was molded into the plastic tracks was showing through after the first one. I read in the manufacturer's flyer that it was good for repairing inner tubes as well. Gotta love versatility!

Pattoncommander, spare blocks...would those be the two track links that I've seen mounted on the two uprights that are centered on the glacial plate just above the star and portside of the driver's hatch? If so, I haven't put anything there. I only have one spare link left since I managed to chip another one (just enough on the edge that the pin wouldn't stay in place). That said, I eventually plan to get metal tracks and then I'll put one there.

Blitz, I like your special. And, I'll be looking for it in the future. But, with Christmas and all, I'm tapped out.

BTW, for you guys that have done the corrections to the Bulldog, does anyone have a template for cutting the driver's periscopes? This will be my first attempt at putting parts under the knife and I was think that if someone has made a cutting template it would help some of us who haven't tried to detail a tank before. Thanks.

I had a bottle of the stuff but it turned solid after about 8 months. It was sealed tight when I checked it.

Spare track went on fender near driver's hatch. There's really no cutting needed for the periscopes, just pop them out, reposition them and reglue. Maybe Bill can chime in if mine look historically accurate or not.

The spare blocks (2) are stored on the track guard (fender) next to the driver's hatch, never on the front slope. Also the pioneer tool rack legs should be cut about 75% and inner headlamps painted dark wine....they are IR. The drivers periscopes should also be straightened up, instead of looking for birds. A tow cable locks down by the spare blocks and rests on brackets along the left fender to just in front of the muffler and the missing gun travel lock should be scratch made behind the left fender.

Got it...I see where the spare links went. I haven't done any cosmetic upgrades yet. But both of your builds are bookmarked for when I do. I'll have to pop my periscopes again to see if I can reposition them. I thought that everyone cut theirs down to size and then glued them back in. I like the idea of an easier way. [8D]

Bill, you wouldn't happen to made any extra travel locks?

no sweat on the driver's scopes...they pull out and you just have to file them down so they sit horizontal. No spares, but here some guides. I have some spare track in 2 link sets. Be glad to send if you need them. Just have to scatch make the flat hold-downs.
Bill

Great photos...thanks.