I did a search on these engines and can not find anything. Does anyone here have experience with these engines?
I have a HB .40 and am not familiar with the needle configuration and how to set it.

www.mecoa.com

http://www.mecoa.com/hb/guide.htm

Thanks w8eye!

I've got a bunch of these engines, which carburetor do you have, the HB or the Perry?

According to the manual descriptions, I must have the Perry, it has a dial with a slot mark behind the hs needle knob.

They're good carburetors. I use a small flat blade screw driver that fits in the slot to adjust the disc. It's very sensitive so you don't need to move it very far at all to make a change in the low speed adjustment which is usually not very far from center.

From the manual:

PERRY CARBURETOR: Idle adjustment by means of the idle disc.

The idle disc is equipped with two O-rings which may stick in a new carburetor. Before you attempt adjusting the carburetor, let a generous amount of fuel run into the carburetor; then use a screw driver to turn the idle disc to the right and left to permit some oil to cover the O-rings. Reposition the slot of the disc on the center mark. Proceed now to adjust the carburetor for full throttle. Open the barrel completely, and adjust the mixture by turning the needle valve. Turning it clockwise leans out the mixture, turning it counterclockwise enrichens it. To insure that the engine runs properly when the model climbs vertically, you must hold it vertically with the engine running. If needed, you slightly open the needle valve until the engine runs smoothly in this position.

After this is done, you adjust the "idle speed" by setting the screw which is located by the air intake. The carb barrel stop screw on the top.....

The idle mixture is adjusted by turning the idle disc with a screw driver. If you turn the disc towards (-) the mixture becomes leaner, and in the opposite direction towards (+) it becomes richer.

"IF THE ENGINE SPEEDS UP WHEN IDLING, AND THEN STOPS, THE MIXTURE IS TOO LEAN. IF THE ENGINE SLOWS DOWN AND STOPS, THE MIXTURE IS TOO RICH. THE ADJUSTMENT IS VERY SENSITIVE. IN MOST CASES, MOVING THE DISC A COUPLE OF THOUSANDS OF AN INCH SUFFICES."

If the carburetor is properly adjusted, the engine runs smoothly even at the lowest idling speed. Also, it must pick up speed even after lengthy idling smoothly without bucking.

These are extremely well made engines. I bit heavy, but sturdy.

I have a few. Three of them have PDP, all have Perry carbs.

Here are links to my .21 PDP and .40 PDP tests:

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_8242211/tm.htm

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_8175602/tm.htm

David

I own a bunch of them as well. They're great engines and run very well...

The two Black Heads are PDP Blitz models. I've got a couple regular PDP's with both Perry and HB Carburetors and a couple of the Old Red Heads.

@Broken Wings

The ones you got there are really made in Germany...in Bavaria (You see the flag of Bavaria in the box)

The engines are originally German, then wer produced in Austria and then are/were made under license by Mecoa??

I'm living in Germany, and I had the oportunity to visit a modeler friend hier (in Munich), he has there old engines from his father, and one of them is a HB, with the made in Germany words...and they explained me that they were first made there... the engine looks just like those ones, it was more than 20 years old....

Saludos

Jorge

Thanks for the response guys. This particular engine is on an OLD military plane that a neighbor kid brought to me. It belonged to his late grandfather and has been in an attic for at least 15 years. He only has the plane and engine and he wants me to get it flying for him, so I've put in hardware,servo's, radio gear, etc and have got it just about ready to fire up. I was unfamiliar with the engine and carb so thanks for the info.
I'm also going to post a pic of the plane in the begginners forum because I can't identify the plane. It looks to be a replica of some low wing USA jet similar to a U2. The word Komet is written inside it but I can not find any aircraft pics that match it. Its wings are stryrofoam covered with balsa sheeting and the whole plane has some kind of hard enamel type coating. It has "SFA 14252" in big letters on top of the right wing which I think might be a registration from some old model club. Any how, thanks again for the info on the engine and carb.

Here's a Sig Komet from back in the 70's. They were a popular pattern type plane. They had a sheeted foam wing. Your plane is probably painted with Hobbypoxy which was popular back then before Monokote really took off.

To me, the only HB engine that I know of that is portly for its displacement is the .40, since it is built in a .50 sized crankcase.

Of course, the .12 thru .20 use the same basic size crankcase, IIRC, and all have the standard beam lug mounts in addition to a radial mounting system. I love the .15 sized version of this engine and have collected quite a few of them. They really scream when using a 7x4 prop and average 10% nitro fuel and they throttle beautifully. Yes, this info was derived from personal experience and lots of it.

Personally, I've never noticed an outstanding difference in power ouput between the .40 PDP and non PDP version. The .61 PDP is a tad noticable having increased power output over the non PDP version. Please realize that this was a very small sample and my observations are far from conclusive.

I installed an Edson Universal Adjustable Engine Mount (now sold by MECOA) on my RCM Trainer 60 back in the very early eighties along with Edson's tricycle nose gear mount. I flew that model with many, many different engines, including the HB .40 PDP R/C engine. The schneurle ported sixties were too much power for a good trainer experience, but the HB .40 PDP swinging a 10 or 11x6 prop was the perfect power plant for the RCM Trainer 60. It was not the slightest bit underpowered with the HB .40 PDP pulling it around. It was a very nice combo.


Ed Cregger

Bingo!!!! That's the plane!! Thanks W8eye.

This one is painted up in a blue and grey Navy scheme.
I've converted it to tail dragger since the nose gear was broke. I'll post some pics as soon as I can.

Here's the plane the night he brought it to me. I'll post more pics when I maiden it for him.

I decided to weigh some engines to see if HB's are, in fact, chunky.

All engines are cross flow, baffle-piston engines. All were weighed with muffler, prop washer and nut.

The .40's:

OS Max-H - 11.8ozs (335grms)
Webra Blackhead - 13.4ozs (380grms)
K&B - 13.6ozs (385grms)
HB PDP - 17.4ozs (495grms)

The .60's:

OS Max-H - 17.4ozs (495grms) same as HB .40!
K&B - 17.8ozs (505grms)
Enya 7033 - 18.0ozs (510grms)
Webra Blackhead - 18.6ozs (525grms)
HB PDP - 20.2ozs (570grms)

There's a 5.6oz difference between the Max and HB .40's, and a 2.8oz difference between the Max and HB .60's.

David

I found this listing in a Tower Hobbies ad from the Feb. 1984 RCM. It looks like a pretty complete list of HB's available at that time.

I'd like to have one of those PDP heli .25's and put an aero head on it. I've never even seen one.

David