stevenmax50

My Feedback: (1)

Ihave built 4 A/C over the years and i have always used monokote. Iam interested in starting a new project but I'd like to paint this one. Ihave read alot from places like the Tower catalog, but Ihavent decided on the best course. It looks like covering the wing and fuse with Sig fabric will allow me to paint on a scheme of my choice. And from what I think Iam reading...that is what is called dope and fabric covering. Iwould greatly appreciate any suggestions you guys can give me regarding covering and paint. Thanks

WacoNut

There are numerous threads that discuss the fabric and dope process, I would do a search and see what you come up with. The process requires more work than the shrink wrap stuff but is far superior IMO. I prefer attaching the fabric with dope and filling the weave with PolyCrylic. Some guys prefer using Stix-It to attach the fabric. Do a search of the different forms here and I am sure you will get the answers you are looking for.
Anthony

stevenmax50

My Feedback: (1)

Thanks Anthony.  I just found this site yesterday and I love it.  I have spent around 4 hours looking at many threads here.  Starting my own with the hope of getting directly to the answers.  I have considered using the Stik It already.  I think I am going to have to buy some and try it on scrap balsa. 

bobferguson

In my case I have found buying a ARF works real well.

stevenmax50

My Feedback: (1)

I read a post somwhere in here that ARFs are the McDonalds of RC.  I prefere to fly something I built myself.  I may buy an ARF someday, but not likely.

Gray Beard

My Feedback: (-1)

And yet you post in the kit building forum??
OP, you can also give any of the fabric coverings a try, they can all be painted. Solartex is an outstanding product, easy to apply, makes you look like a covering pro and holds paint very well. Any of the coverings that have tex in the name are fabric of one type or another.

bobferguson

I dream of one day covering or painting one of my plane. I have a couple of kits that I have build that are waiting to be covered.

Gray Beard

My Feedback: (-1)

Well then, in one of my clubs we had a racing class that was designed for one type of ARF only and most the guys would remove the ARF covering and recover it the way they wanted. Covering isn't very hard, Ken has a how to thread here that is very good.
Stop dreaming and give it a try, several of the guys here will be more then happy to help you out with any problems you may run into. Even if you want to try building a plane instead of assembling them. We don't build them because it's easier, we do it because they are stronger and it just plane fun!!

WestCoastFlyer

My Feedback: (1)

I suggest to the OP and others to give Jerry Nelson a call at Nelson Hobby Specialties, http://www.nelsonhobby.com/

He's a great guy and experienced in both full size aircraft and RC products. I've used his paints with great success and he sells his own brand of iron on fabric.

Fabric and paint is actually easier in a lot of ways than covering with that devil monokote lol. If you don't mind sanding, you'll love the results of fabric and paint.

Edited to add:

Information about his paint is here. http://www.nelsonhobby.com/paint.html

bigtim

My Feedback: (13)

covering type for me depends on the model, I have a nice flying kit I built called a Gizmo and its covered in mono its light and I didn't want to get too fancy with the covering, I prefer to build WWII fighters for the most part and use .56oz fiberglass,it has the feel of silk fabric and is really light weight, and water based polyurathane.

Varathane Diamond finish is what I like to use myself, but there are several brands that work well for the application.

more information can be found in this thread http://www.tompierce.net/SBD/index.htm it has many scale tips and details on covering and paint,its where I read about this covering/finishing method, the products I have been using for years for my work, but had never thought about using them for models.

I have used Dope and silk many times but after the last time I was over the smell and toxic levels of the material, I use primarally water based materials for my projects now,its surprising how well they work, for paint I use www.warbirdcolors.com paints there fairly shiney when used without a clear coat I usually go with a satin clear to dull the finish down a bit, the paint is fuel proof to 15% nitro and when painting with a airbrush there is hardly any noticable smell at all, a major complaint from my wife before going water based.

stevenmax50

My Feedback: (1)

Thanks West Coast....the Nelson Hobby site is great!!!.  From what I have seen in a short 10minutes there, I can recommend that site to anyone looking to paint VS monokote.  Its 2140 local here so I will certainly be calling there tomorrow morning.  Man I am so glad I founf RCU. 

Showtime100

This looks nice and the website seems very informational. I'd be willing to try this.

pmw

My Feedback: (1)

I've used Nelson's paint for years with excellent results. But...when he says his paint will not work over auto primer, he is right! He said some people were having good luck with Rustoleum primer. It does not work for me. The only thing his paint will stick to is water based poly, nitrate dope, or his own primer. If you use the proper base coat, his paint is awesome!

pmw

WacoNut

I use the Nelson clear over latex to fuel proof it when using nitro fuels, you don't have to fuel proof latex for gas.
Anthony

stevenmax50

My Feedback: (1)

I was looking in the Tips & Techniques Forum and read a thread that referenced the following; 
http://homepages.ihug.co.nz/~atong/
 It is a great site with all kinds of info, including covering and painting.  Alot like the Nelson Hobbies site.

planebuilder66

My Feedback: (8)

I've always used monocote in the past, but recently,....I've noticed that the new monocote is absoloute garbage, it's not opaque enough to not show the structure under the skin and to top it off, it can't shrink as well as the old stuff could, I always try to pull it drum tigh before shrinking, but if I do that with the new stuff, the color seperates from the film as I stretch it. So I'm with most of the people here in the fact that koverall and paint is the best method possible, hands down. It's tougher, lasts longer and is less headach if done properly, just my 2 cents.

Andrewmc

I am covering a cub at the moment in an unusual colour - Cub Yellow Solartex.

I agree with gray Beards comments about how easily this product applies - almost invisible seams and no wrinkles - none.

However I have a couple of questions which seem appropriate to this forum too:

The cub has spruce cabin struts 1/16"sq. Obviously this will not be covered in Solartex but will be painted. I bought some Solarlac paint colour matched to the cub yellow fabric, but the thinners for this paint do not seem to be imported along with the paint so i am looking for alternative paint types.

Many people on RCU refer to latex paints. My understanding is that this is any water based emulsion type paint either acrylic or water based enamel. Is this correct? Is one better than the other and how should the wood be primed before application?

Also I have covered the wing and the sheeted section in the centre shows through, should I apply a coat of paint over the covered wing?
Last question, , to prevent this from occuring on the fuselage should I paint the sheeted areas before covering withthe solartex.

WacoNut

I covered this plane with Koverall and painted with Krylon gloss white and true blue. The blue is trimmed out with black 3M 1/16 auto trim tape. You will nee to fuel proof the krylon if using glow fuel.
Anthony

TexasAirBoss

My Feedback: (22)

I just painted my first airplane. I used Sig Koverall and Sig nitrate dope. Then used grey primer , then Lustrekote and Rustoleum paints. The wings and tail are Monokote. The fuselage is paint. If I had to do it over again, i would have painted the entire airplane.

The Koverall and dope method was very quick and easy. I think there are better paints, but I don't have a compressor or gun. I think my Monokote days are over. You can't beat the patina of paint on scale projects.

stevenmax50

My Feedback: (1)

Ijust placed my order with Tower for the Sig Coverall. I havent decided on a dope yet due to all the options Ihave learned about here in this and other threads. Ihave a call in to Nelson Hobbies. They have a paint that is thinned bywater. Cool. I also sawsome incredible building/covering techniques in this tread from another posting. It referred us all to the following site. http://www.tompierce.net/SBD/index.htm . The guy who built the plane on that site did as beautiful a job as Ihave ever seen. Of course, Idont get out much! Everyone definatly needs to see this guys site. The ending will leave you slack jawed.Mr Pierce, Ifeel for ya buddy. But your reaction to your crash is admirable.After all that work ending up like that, Iwould have needed valium for many days.
Ido have a compressorand gun. But theNelsonpaint allows you to use a brush. Look further up in this threadf to get the Nelson Hobbiesweb address.
I will be posting pics once the Sig arrives. Thanks again forall the tips fellas.

Steve

Showtime100

Wow, that is an awesome web site. I love all the pics and little notes on each one. The end result is incredible. I can't blieve that was his first warbird.

WestCoastFlyer

My Feedback: (1)

That website is the exact reason why I'll never be an AMA Scale National Champion. Well, that and the fact my flying will never be good enough. What some of these guys flying U.S. Scalemasters can do is nothing short of exceptional, awe-inspiring flying.

WestCoastFlyer

My Feedback: (1)

I took the liberty of bolding your thinned by water - this is true and it's great paint. Jerry Nelson recommends filtering his paint when pouring from the bottle into the paint reservoir of the spray gun. What my ex-wife didn't realize is that I always used the Krups gold filter out of the coffee maker. As a matter of fact, she probably still uses that coffee maker and filter lol, so this is a testament that you can filter Nelson paint through a coffee maker filter and it rinses out clean with water with no ill side effects! [8D] Or at least none that I've heard of LOL.

planebuilder66

My Feedback: (8)

Except for the fact that the rolling pin will be lodged in your head when she reads that statement,.......at that point, it's probibally better to just go buy paint strainers from any quality paint supplier, they'r like .50 cents each, and I think out of the dozen I bought, I still have 9 left from straining while painting my pica jungmiester with nelson and then changing to dope paints later.

WestCoastFlyer

My Feedback: (1)

You're probably right, it would take a rolling pin lodged in my head to buy throwaway strainers, but due to the effects of drinking coffee along with her ten years ago I'd already developed a numbness in my head region (the effects of marriage) so I wouldn't feel a rolling pin anyway. And also, the fact my hair all fell out and one leg grew shorter wouldn't have anything to do with paint residue, would it?

Seriously, it was always scrubbed and washed meticulously clean. Paint and glue fumes, now that is serious business.