Before you ask what RC you should buy READ THIS
12-17-2009, 12:00 AM
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Before you ask what RC you should buy READ THIS
What you should know before you ask:
There are daily posts about what car/truck/buggy/truggy/etc et al to buy for someone just getting into the sport .
Most of the threads start out with "I'm new to RC and want to know what car/truck/buggy/truggy/etc should I get?".
This leaves many holes open in the question so here are a few simple guidelines that will help us help you in
answering these questions. These are the basic 10, below them, is extensive information for 1/10th electric.
1. What is your experience level for driving and building RC cars and trucks? Have you ever driven one? Built one?
2. Where do you plan on running yourRC?
3. What is your intention for buying? Are you going to race or bash?
4. What is your budget?
5. What scaleRC are you looking for? 1/5, 1/8, 1/10, 1/12, 1/18, etc?
6. What type of power source do you want? Electric or Nitro?
7. Are you looking for something durable with more support for replacement parts or "hop ups" or are you looking for
an inexpensive car just to have fun with.
8. Do you want a RTR (ready to run with everything but fuel and batteries) or a kit that you would have to build and
add parts manually to?
9. What type of starting system do you want? Bump box, roto-start, pull start, electric-start?
10. Are you comfortable working on your own car for repairs or do you know a LHS (Local Hobby Shop) that can repair for you?
More to come and content will be added to continously with the help of the community.
Terms:
Bashing - Not racing but running your RC recreationally on or off-road, over jumps, in a skate park just having fun.
RTR - Ready To Run Most RTR kits include everything that you need to get your car going minus batteries and fuel for nitros.
Hop Ups - Upgrade parts often replacing an original part with a stronger, lighter or reinforced part.
Bump Box - A box usually requiring 2 7.2v Batteries which you align the car/truck on and push down to start
Roto-Start - Usually a handheld device requiring a 7.2v Battery which has a wand that loads into your backplate of the motor.
Pull Start - Like A weed eater, you have a pull cord that retracts inside the housing
Electric-Start - A device that has an electric start and the car/truck comes set up to use it. This is the least favorite.
Jeremy Z writes:
1) Experience level. This is important because although some folks feel that they want to start with the best, or best they can afford, it is not always preferable to do so. For instance, spending the extra for a brushless motor equipped stadium truck and a 3S LiPo battery that will achieve 70 mph is not the best choice for a new guy. Crashes are more damaging, the cars can be dangerous projectiles, and it is just not as easy to learn when such precise throttle control is required. As for building, a lot of folks feel (myself included) that building one's own car or truck kit from scratch puts one in a better position to repair it when the time comes. These days, nearly everything is sold as RTR (ready to run) and the buyer is deprived of the pleaseure of building it. If you are brand new and have never built an RC car or truck, I recommend starting with one of the Tamiya re-release models: Grasshopper, Hornet, Frog, Subaru Brat, Lunch Box, or Clodbuster.
2) Where will you run it? This is important because there are road cars, rally cars, offroad cars, monster trucks and there are compromises for each category. A true road car, such as a touring car, can only be run on the street, and actually required a clean and smooth street. Many folks search out a freshly paved parking lot, and sweep it clear of stones before laying out their track. In offroad cars, there are a couple of catetories: 2WD buggy, 4WD buggy. 4WD is easier to control, but is more expensive and more complex. 2WD is a bit more efficient and has the capability to be faster on smoother surfaces. But on looser surfaces, the rear end always wants to come around. In trucks, there are several categories too: 2WD stadium truck, 2WD short course truck, 2WD monster truck, 4WD monster truck, 4WD short course truck. Stadium trucks are like buggies, except the body covers the shock towers and they have slightly larger wheels, so they are easier to control and harder to break. Monster trucks have bigger wheels, more ground clearance and can handle rougher terrain. But they have a higher center of gravity, so they can't corner at such high speeds as buggies and stadium trucks without rolling over. Then, there are rock crawlers, which can pretty much handle any terrain, and can conquer huge rocks, but are very slow.
3) Racing vs. bashing - Racing is more competitive and remains exciting much longer than bashing. But it can also be more of a strain on the wallet and will require more driving. Bashing alone is fun, but can get boring for some. Bashing with friends is even more fun, and unofficial racing can be done. Race cars usually have the best suspension and lightest parts, since it is all about better lap times. But they tend to be more expensive and less durable, and they usually do not make good bashers. A really good basher is usually heavy enough that they cannot be competitive in racing. (the exception is spec. classes, such as the Slash class where everyone has to run stock equipment and has the same motor) My opinion is that usually, monster trucks are best for bashing, because they give more options for places to run. But if all your places are gravel lots or smooth dirt, this may not be the case. Monster trucks and 4WD 1/8 scale buggies are the only ones that can really handle taller grass with any grace.
4) Budget is an important factor. For $100, you really can't get anything decent unless you already have batteries and a charger. $150 is on the ragged edge. I believe a Duratrax Evader can be had ready to run at that price point, but these are not the most durable buggies. (or so I've read) But they do have a huge following here and can be made better. For $200, you can get a very rugged and good-performing 2WD car or truck outfit, complete with a battery pack or two and an overnight charger. (or with one pack and a 1 hour charger) Examples here are Traxxas Stampede, Rustler, Bandit, or Slash. For $50 more, one could also get an entry level Tamiya kit as mentioned above, along with a battery pack, charger, and basic radio system. For around $300, one could get a 4WD buggy or monster truck ready to run. For around $400, one could get a nice 1/8 scale 4WD truck such as a Traxxas E-Revo ready to run. These are big enough that grass doesn't slow them down much, but they use two battery packs at once, so they're more expensive to "feed".
5) Scale. There are all kinds of scales. 1/16 scale and smaller can be run indoors and usually cost less than 1/10 scale and larger. But they have a hard time with rougher terrain found outdoors. A 1/12 scale monster truck is about the same size (but taller) than a 1/10 scale buggy. 1/8 scale has an easier time with rough terrain, but starts to cost significantly more than 1/10 scale, but initially, and for power systems. Larger than 1/8 scale is much less common and are usually run on two stroke gasoline rather than nitro fuel. Gas powered models cost more to get started, usually at least $1000, but gas only costs $4 a gallon or whatever it costs at the pump. (not counting the two stroke oil that must be mixed in) Another thing to consider about scale is that racing classes go by scale. For instance, nitro buggies are nearly always 1/8 scale, and electric buggies have traditionally been 1/10 scale. (there are more 1/8 scale electrics each day, and there are conversion kits to convert a 1/8 scale nitro buggy to electric.
6) Power source: I won't discuss this further than I have above. It used to be that if you wanted top speed and high performance, nitro was the only way to go. Now, with brushless motors and Lithium Polymer battery packs, nitro is not quite as fast. (but it costs less to go fast from the getgo than brushless/LiPo electrics)
7) Availability of replacement parts and aftermarket support vs. something cheap to start with. Here is a good example. The Tamiya Hornet is a fun kit to build and is durable, but doesn't have as good parts support (especially locally in the US) as something like a Traxxas Bandit. The Bandit will outperform the Hornet in every way, has better local parts support, better aftermarket parts support, and has better suspension. But it is only available fully assembled, so some fun and experience is lost there. The Bandit, out-of-the-box is easily twice as fast as the Hornet too, but the Hornet is probably a better starter car because it is not as fast and because it is built from scratch. (unless you buy the "Xpert Built" package) Just my opinion here, but it is better to stick with a known manufacturer with good parts support for one's first vehicle. Examples are HPI and Traxxas for bashing, and Associated and Losi for racing. Tamiya has good parts availability, but is not as well supported locally as it used to be in the 80s.
8) RTR vs. kit - This was somewhat discussed earlier. RTR means you can run the vehicle within an hour or two of opening the package. A kit will take a day or two, minimum. You'll know your vehicle better with a kit, and repairs and hop-ups will be easier for you. Not only because you have put it together yourself, but also because the manual has every detail pictured. Sadly, RTRs is where the market is heading. Lots of folks want the ease of a toy-grade car, but with the performance of a hobby grade car. Folks nowadays (in general) seem not to enjoy modeling as much as driving.
9) Starting sytem. This is a moot point for electrics, so I won't comment here.
10) Who will repair it? This is something to think about. Some folks do take their vehicles to the local hobby shop (LHS) for repairs. This is lame in my opinion, but not everyone is mechanically or electrically inclined. Building one's own vehical from parts will help to develop the skills to repair or upgrade one's car. Some folks just don't want to deal with it and have more money than spare time. We can help to some extent here on the forums as far as repair.
Now I will make a couple of blanket recommendations for starting in electric cars:
First car should be either a Tamiya Hornet or Lunch Box/Midnight Pumpkin kit. (Lunch Box and Midnight Pumpkin are identical except for the body) The Grasshopper is also recommended, but only costs $20 less than the Hornet and has very primitive rear suspension and a very slow motor.
Reasons: Starting with a lower-performance kit will give you the experience of building your first car from the ground up. This will give you a very good chance to be able to repair it yourself. Hop-ups will also be much easier. Also, these cars are fast enough to be fun, and slow & rugged enough that they will not easily break. Go on ebay and buy a ball bearing kit, and your run times will be longer and steering will be less sloppy. The Hornet is better for smoother offroad conditions and is faster. The Lunch Box will handle rougher terrain (such as grass) than the Hornet can handle. These models can also be easily hopped up by adding a 21 turn or 19 turn motor and double in speed.
Second car can be something better performing and faster. I suggest 4WD for its superior control and oil-filled shocks at all four corners for better handling on all terrain. If you find yourself driving more on the street, maybe consider a touring car or rally car. Good second cars would be an HPI Wheely King 4WD for more rugged terrain and something affordable. For something faster, an HPI E-Savage or Traxxas Slash 4WD or E-Revo.
or, upgrade the first car with a hotter motor, extra tires & wheels for different terrain, and more battery packs for more driving between charge sessions.
Best of luck and have lots of fun. Feel free to PM me with more questions on the issue. (and reference this thread so I know what you're talking about)
If you have more of an interest in nitro cars & trucks, I'm sure you'll get help with folks who are more into nitro.
There are daily posts about what car/truck/buggy/truggy/etc et al to buy for someone just getting into the sport .
Most of the threads start out with "I'm new to RC and want to know what car/truck/buggy/truggy/etc should I get?".
This leaves many holes open in the question so here are a few simple guidelines that will help us help you in
answering these questions. These are the basic 10, below them, is extensive information for 1/10th electric.
1. What is your experience level for driving and building RC cars and trucks? Have you ever driven one? Built one?
2. Where do you plan on running yourRC?
3. What is your intention for buying? Are you going to race or bash?
4. What is your budget?
5. What scaleRC are you looking for? 1/5, 1/8, 1/10, 1/12, 1/18, etc?
6. What type of power source do you want? Electric or Nitro?
7. Are you looking for something durable with more support for replacement parts or "hop ups" or are you looking for
an inexpensive car just to have fun with.
8. Do you want a RTR (ready to run with everything but fuel and batteries) or a kit that you would have to build and
add parts manually to?
9. What type of starting system do you want? Bump box, roto-start, pull start, electric-start?
10. Are you comfortable working on your own car for repairs or do you know a LHS (Local Hobby Shop) that can repair for you?
More to come and content will be added to continously with the help of the community.
Terms:
Bashing - Not racing but running your RC recreationally on or off-road, over jumps, in a skate park just having fun.
RTR - Ready To Run Most RTR kits include everything that you need to get your car going minus batteries and fuel for nitros.
Hop Ups - Upgrade parts often replacing an original part with a stronger, lighter or reinforced part.
Bump Box - A box usually requiring 2 7.2v Batteries which you align the car/truck on and push down to start
Roto-Start - Usually a handheld device requiring a 7.2v Battery which has a wand that loads into your backplate of the motor.
Pull Start - Like A weed eater, you have a pull cord that retracts inside the housing
Electric-Start - A device that has an electric start and the car/truck comes set up to use it. This is the least favorite.
Jeremy Z writes:
1) Experience level. This is important because although some folks feel that they want to start with the best, or best they can afford, it is not always preferable to do so. For instance, spending the extra for a brushless motor equipped stadium truck and a 3S LiPo battery that will achieve 70 mph is not the best choice for a new guy. Crashes are more damaging, the cars can be dangerous projectiles, and it is just not as easy to learn when such precise throttle control is required. As for building, a lot of folks feel (myself included) that building one's own car or truck kit from scratch puts one in a better position to repair it when the time comes. These days, nearly everything is sold as RTR (ready to run) and the buyer is deprived of the pleaseure of building it. If you are brand new and have never built an RC car or truck, I recommend starting with one of the Tamiya re-release models: Grasshopper, Hornet, Frog, Subaru Brat, Lunch Box, or Clodbuster.
2) Where will you run it? This is important because there are road cars, rally cars, offroad cars, monster trucks and there are compromises for each category. A true road car, such as a touring car, can only be run on the street, and actually required a clean and smooth street. Many folks search out a freshly paved parking lot, and sweep it clear of stones before laying out their track. In offroad cars, there are a couple of catetories: 2WD buggy, 4WD buggy. 4WD is easier to control, but is more expensive and more complex. 2WD is a bit more efficient and has the capability to be faster on smoother surfaces. But on looser surfaces, the rear end always wants to come around. In trucks, there are several categories too: 2WD stadium truck, 2WD short course truck, 2WD monster truck, 4WD monster truck, 4WD short course truck. Stadium trucks are like buggies, except the body covers the shock towers and they have slightly larger wheels, so they are easier to control and harder to break. Monster trucks have bigger wheels, more ground clearance and can handle rougher terrain. But they have a higher center of gravity, so they can't corner at such high speeds as buggies and stadium trucks without rolling over. Then, there are rock crawlers, which can pretty much handle any terrain, and can conquer huge rocks, but are very slow.
3) Racing vs. bashing - Racing is more competitive and remains exciting much longer than bashing. But it can also be more of a strain on the wallet and will require more driving. Bashing alone is fun, but can get boring for some. Bashing with friends is even more fun, and unofficial racing can be done. Race cars usually have the best suspension and lightest parts, since it is all about better lap times. But they tend to be more expensive and less durable, and they usually do not make good bashers. A really good basher is usually heavy enough that they cannot be competitive in racing. (the exception is spec. classes, such as the Slash class where everyone has to run stock equipment and has the same motor) My opinion is that usually, monster trucks are best for bashing, because they give more options for places to run. But if all your places are gravel lots or smooth dirt, this may not be the case. Monster trucks and 4WD 1/8 scale buggies are the only ones that can really handle taller grass with any grace.
4) Budget is an important factor. For $100, you really can't get anything decent unless you already have batteries and a charger. $150 is on the ragged edge. I believe a Duratrax Evader can be had ready to run at that price point, but these are not the most durable buggies. (or so I've read) But they do have a huge following here and can be made better. For $200, you can get a very rugged and good-performing 2WD car or truck outfit, complete with a battery pack or two and an overnight charger. (or with one pack and a 1 hour charger) Examples here are Traxxas Stampede, Rustler, Bandit, or Slash. For $50 more, one could also get an entry level Tamiya kit as mentioned above, along with a battery pack, charger, and basic radio system. For around $300, one could get a 4WD buggy or monster truck ready to run. For around $400, one could get a nice 1/8 scale 4WD truck such as a Traxxas E-Revo ready to run. These are big enough that grass doesn't slow them down much, but they use two battery packs at once, so they're more expensive to "feed".
5) Scale. There are all kinds of scales. 1/16 scale and smaller can be run indoors and usually cost less than 1/10 scale and larger. But they have a hard time with rougher terrain found outdoors. A 1/12 scale monster truck is about the same size (but taller) than a 1/10 scale buggy. 1/8 scale has an easier time with rough terrain, but starts to cost significantly more than 1/10 scale, but initially, and for power systems. Larger than 1/8 scale is much less common and are usually run on two stroke gasoline rather than nitro fuel. Gas powered models cost more to get started, usually at least $1000, but gas only costs $4 a gallon or whatever it costs at the pump. (not counting the two stroke oil that must be mixed in) Another thing to consider about scale is that racing classes go by scale. For instance, nitro buggies are nearly always 1/8 scale, and electric buggies have traditionally been 1/10 scale. (there are more 1/8 scale electrics each day, and there are conversion kits to convert a 1/8 scale nitro buggy to electric.
6) Power source: I won't discuss this further than I have above. It used to be that if you wanted top speed and high performance, nitro was the only way to go. Now, with brushless motors and Lithium Polymer battery packs, nitro is not quite as fast. (but it costs less to go fast from the getgo than brushless/LiPo electrics)
7) Availability of replacement parts and aftermarket support vs. something cheap to start with. Here is a good example. The Tamiya Hornet is a fun kit to build and is durable, but doesn't have as good parts support (especially locally in the US) as something like a Traxxas Bandit. The Bandit will outperform the Hornet in every way, has better local parts support, better aftermarket parts support, and has better suspension. But it is only available fully assembled, so some fun and experience is lost there. The Bandit, out-of-the-box is easily twice as fast as the Hornet too, but the Hornet is probably a better starter car because it is not as fast and because it is built from scratch. (unless you buy the "Xpert Built" package) Just my opinion here, but it is better to stick with a known manufacturer with good parts support for one's first vehicle. Examples are HPI and Traxxas for bashing, and Associated and Losi for racing. Tamiya has good parts availability, but is not as well supported locally as it used to be in the 80s.
8) RTR vs. kit - This was somewhat discussed earlier. RTR means you can run the vehicle within an hour or two of opening the package. A kit will take a day or two, minimum. You'll know your vehicle better with a kit, and repairs and hop-ups will be easier for you. Not only because you have put it together yourself, but also because the manual has every detail pictured. Sadly, RTRs is where the market is heading. Lots of folks want the ease of a toy-grade car, but with the performance of a hobby grade car. Folks nowadays (in general) seem not to enjoy modeling as much as driving.
9) Starting sytem. This is a moot point for electrics, so I won't comment here.
10) Who will repair it? This is something to think about. Some folks do take their vehicles to the local hobby shop (LHS) for repairs. This is lame in my opinion, but not everyone is mechanically or electrically inclined. Building one's own vehical from parts will help to develop the skills to repair or upgrade one's car. Some folks just don't want to deal with it and have more money than spare time. We can help to some extent here on the forums as far as repair.
Now I will make a couple of blanket recommendations for starting in electric cars:
First car should be either a Tamiya Hornet or Lunch Box/Midnight Pumpkin kit. (Lunch Box and Midnight Pumpkin are identical except for the body) The Grasshopper is also recommended, but only costs $20 less than the Hornet and has very primitive rear suspension and a very slow motor.
Reasons: Starting with a lower-performance kit will give you the experience of building your first car from the ground up. This will give you a very good chance to be able to repair it yourself. Hop-ups will also be much easier. Also, these cars are fast enough to be fun, and slow & rugged enough that they will not easily break. Go on ebay and buy a ball bearing kit, and your run times will be longer and steering will be less sloppy. The Hornet is better for smoother offroad conditions and is faster. The Lunch Box will handle rougher terrain (such as grass) than the Hornet can handle. These models can also be easily hopped up by adding a 21 turn or 19 turn motor and double in speed.
Second car can be something better performing and faster. I suggest 4WD for its superior control and oil-filled shocks at all four corners for better handling on all terrain. If you find yourself driving more on the street, maybe consider a touring car or rally car. Good second cars would be an HPI Wheely King 4WD for more rugged terrain and something affordable. For something faster, an HPI E-Savage or Traxxas Slash 4WD or E-Revo.
or, upgrade the first car with a hotter motor, extra tires & wheels for different terrain, and more battery packs for more driving between charge sessions.
Best of luck and have lots of fun. Feel free to PM me with more questions on the issue. (and reference this thread so I know what you're talking about)
If you have more of an interest in nitro cars & trucks, I'm sure you'll get help with folks who are more into nitro.
12-17-2009, 07:17 AM
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RE: Before you ask what RC you should buy READ THIS
All good stuff, but unless this eventually becomes a sticky, no-one will find it with the Search feature. Maybe you cna repost, or a moderator can help and re-title this along the lines of [How to ask "What type of RC should I buy?"].
#2 "which scale do you want", ...perhaps it would be better to know where the person wants to run it. Advice as to which scale is appropriate will come. No point in 1/16 on grass. No point in 1/5th in a small back-yard, etc.
Nice idea though. As advice comes, maybe you can edit your original post as required.
#2 "which scale do you want", ...perhaps it would be better to know where the person wants to run it. Advice as to which scale is appropriate will come. No point in 1/16 on grass. No point in 1/5th in a small back-yard, etc.
Nice idea though. As advice comes, maybe you can edit your original post as required.
12-17-2009, 09:11 AM
#3
RE: Before you ask what RC you should buy READ THIS
This would be a great STICKY. We get this qestion about once a week. Don't mind helping but it would make it easier to have some type of idea what the person is looking for. I think you covered all the proper questions except where do you paln on running. As noted above.
12-17-2009, 10:22 AM
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RE: Before you ask what RC you should buy READ THIS
Good thread, I would maybe change the title a little to include "what car is right for me" so it is a little more specific.
12-17-2009, 10:34 AM
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RE: Before you ask what RC you should buy READ THIS
A sticky? Hmmm... I don't know.
Do you really think this is necessary? The forum is for discussion, so isn't asking questions and awaiting answers just that?
Is the idea of answering questions from new members kind of difficult?
Do you really think this is necessary? The forum is for discussion, so isn't asking questions and awaiting answers just that?
Is the idea of answering questions from new members kind of difficult?
12-17-2009, 01:18 PM
#8
RE: Before you ask what RC you should buy READ THIS
Well we are not syaing dont ask. What we are saying is be more detailed with the question. EXAMPLE: New to the hobby and I want a truck that I can bash with and maybe later on do some off road racing. I have a budget of 200.00 to 350.00 dolars. What truck would be best for me.
Not this EXAMPLE: New to the hobby what should i get? Then we have to start asking what is your budget? What do you plan on running? Off road or on road? ect. ect.
More like a guide line on how to ask the question so that way it makes it easier for us to respond to the new guy with less confusion. I dont think it would be a bad idea.
Not this EXAMPLE: New to the hobby what should i get? Then we have to start asking what is your budget? What do you plan on running? Off road or on road? ect. ect.
More like a guide line on how to ask the question so that way it makes it easier for us to respond to the new guy with less confusion. I dont think it would be a bad idea.
12-17-2009, 01:24 PM
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RE: Before you ask what RC you should buy READ THIS
Lol resistance on making it a sticky to further help the forum and the person asking the question we get weekly. That's counter-productive.
As mentioned, it's to help those that ask the identical questions day in and day out. So Anomie, you're saying that although it would be convenient, we should continue to ask the same questions and fill up nearly half a page in just asking what the person wants?
As mentioned, it's to help those that ask the identical questions day in and day out. So Anomie, you're saying that although it would be convenient, we should continue to ask the same questions and fill up nearly half a page in just asking what the person wants?
12-17-2009, 01:43 PM
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RE: Before you ask what RC you should buy READ THIS
ORIGINAL: rast4man
Lol resistance on making it a sticky to further help the forum and the person asking the question we get weekly. That's counter-productive.
As mentioned, it's to help those that ask the identical questions day in and day out. So Anomie, you're saying that although it would be convenient, we should continue to ask the same questions and fill up nearly half a page in just asking what the person wants?
Lol resistance on making it a sticky to further help the forum and the person asking the question we get weekly. That's counter-productive.
As mentioned, it's to help those that ask the identical questions day in and day out. So Anomie, you're saying that although it would be convenient, we should continue to ask the same questions and fill up nearly half a page in just asking what the person wants?
If you find enough support (and we will keep an eye out) I would be happy to make a sticky. Keep in mind, however, that many will still come here and not even click that sticky. They will simply start a thread. I am merely stating that fact may not change much at all. The sticky must be viewed in order to yield results.
I agree it is a good idea, and I also agree on the point regarding convenience.
ORIGINAL: quietnas1
More like a guide line on how to ask the question so that way it makes it easier for us to respond to the new guy with less confusion. I dont think it would be a bad idea.
More like a guide line on how to ask the question so that way it makes it easier for us to respond to the new guy with less confusion. I dont think it would be a bad idea.
12-17-2009, 01:51 PM
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RE: Before you ask what RC you should buy READ THIS
Mmkay. :P
IMO, it's better to have a sticky in place than not have a sticky in place. And THAT, is my $0.02 on that.
IMO, it's better to have a sticky in place than not have a sticky in place. And THAT, is my $0.02 on that.
ORIGINAL: Anomie
Well, remember this is just one person's opinion, mmkay? Just me!
If you find enough support (and we will keep an eye out) I would be happy to make a sticky. Keep in mind, however, that many will still come here and not even click that sticky. They will simply start a thread. I am merely stating that fact may not change much at all. The sticky must be viewed in order to yield results.
I agree it is a good idea, and I also agree on the point regarding convenience.
Good point. We do have guides in other forums, as well as a few in this one.
ORIGINAL: rast4man
Lol resistance on making it a sticky to further help the forum and the person asking the question we get weekly. That's counter-productive.
As mentioned, it's to help those that ask the identical questions day in and day out. So Anomie, you're saying that although it would be convenient, we should continue to ask the same questions and fill up nearly half a page in just asking what the person wants?
Lol resistance on making it a sticky to further help the forum and the person asking the question we get weekly. That's counter-productive.
As mentioned, it's to help those that ask the identical questions day in and day out. So Anomie, you're saying that although it would be convenient, we should continue to ask the same questions and fill up nearly half a page in just asking what the person wants?
If you find enough support (and we will keep an eye out) I would be happy to make a sticky. Keep in mind, however, that many will still come here and not even click that sticky. They will simply start a thread. I am merely stating that fact may not change much at all. The sticky must be viewed in order to yield results.
I agree it is a good idea, and I also agree on the point regarding convenience.
ORIGINAL: quietnas1
More like a guide line on how to ask the question so that way it makes it easier for us to respond to the new guy with less confusion. I dont think it would be a bad idea.
More like a guide line on how to ask the question so that way it makes it easier for us to respond to the new guy with less confusion. I dont think it would be a bad idea.
12-17-2009, 02:12 PM
#12
RE: Before you ask what RC you should buy READ THIS
ORIGINAL: Anomie
If you find enough support (and we will keep an eye out) I would be happy to make a sticky. Keep in mind, however, that many will still come here and not even click that sticky. They will simply start a thread. I am merely stating that fact may not change much at all. The sticky must be viewed in order to yield results.
If you find enough support (and we will keep an eye out) I would be happy to make a sticky. Keep in mind, however, that many will still come here and not even click that sticky. They will simply start a thread. I am merely stating that fact may not change much at all. The sticky must be viewed in order to yield results.
Don't get me wrong its a great idea, but the majority of people will still ignore it.
Now maybe make it a page when you sign up for a account that you have to read through.
Something along the lines of: IF YOU ARE MAKING THIS ACCOUNT TO ASK WHAT RC WOULD BE GOOD PLEASE READ THE FOLLOWING AND MAKE A DETAILED POST WITH YOUR QUESTION
it might have some effect.
12-17-2009, 02:18 PM
#13
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RE: Before you ask what RC you should buy READ THIS
I made a few changes per the posts. We will see how it goes. I just wanted something to help others, nothing more and nothing less. Hopefully a Mod will get onboard with this and we can get it stickied and continue to add to it. Thanks for the help so far.
12-17-2009, 04:26 PM
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RE: Before you ask what RC you should buy READ THIS
Why not make it a sticky like the one Foxy made for the Giant Scale forum?
[link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_7217508/tm.htm]CLICK[/link]
I found that very helpful as a newbie.
Not that this really concerns me as I'm not in to RTR's or anything, but I agree that having the same questions pop up every week in a new thread can get a bit repetitive and in the end people can't be bothered to answer the same questions over and over again.
If everything is covered well - and it has to be detailed to answer most questions straight away - it helps everyone.
Any further questions can then be dealt with in the forum.
[link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_7217508/tm.htm]CLICK[/link]
I found that very helpful as a newbie.
Not that this really concerns me as I'm not in to RTR's or anything, but I agree that having the same questions pop up every week in a new thread can get a bit repetitive and in the end people can't be bothered to answer the same questions over and over again.
If everything is covered well - and it has to be detailed to answer most questions straight away - it helps everyone.
Any further questions can then be dealt with in the forum.
12-17-2009, 05:37 PM
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RE: Before you ask what RC you should buy READ THIS
I think its a good idea.
It would serve as a base or guideline for someone asking on which vehicle to get. They can ask a more vivid question, and we could give them a better answer to their question faster and more accurately the first time instead of using half the page trying to figure out what they would like to get.
ie.
1. How much are they willing to spend
2. do they want gas, nitro or electric
3. what scale
4. do they want to race or bash
5. where will they be using the rc
6. truck, buggy, SC, or etc.
It would serve as a base or guideline for someone asking on which vehicle to get. They can ask a more vivid question, and we could give them a better answer to their question faster and more accurately the first time instead of using half the page trying to figure out what they would like to get.
ie.
1. How much are they willing to spend
2. do they want gas, nitro or electric
3. what scale
4. do they want to race or bash
5. where will they be using the rc
6. truck, buggy, SC, or etc.
12-17-2009, 05:56 PM
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RE: Before you ask what RC you should buy READ THIS
ORIGINAL: Dirty_Vinylpusher
Why not make it a sticky like the one Foxy made for the Giant Scale forum?
[link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_7217508/tm.htm]CLICK[/link]
I found that very helpful as a newbie.
Not that this really concerns me as I'm not in to RTR's or anything, but I agree that having the same questions pop up every week in a new thread can get a bit repetitive and in the end people can't be bothered to answer the same questions over and over again.
If everything is covered well - and it has to be detailed to answer most questions straight away - it helps everyone.
Any further questions can then be dealt with in the forum.
Why not make it a sticky like the one Foxy made for the Giant Scale forum?
[link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_7217508/tm.htm]CLICK[/link]
I found that very helpful as a newbie.
Not that this really concerns me as I'm not in to RTR's or anything, but I agree that having the same questions pop up every week in a new thread can get a bit repetitive and in the end people can't be bothered to answer the same questions over and over again.
If everything is covered well - and it has to be detailed to answer most questions straight away - it helps everyone.
Any further questions can then be dealt with in the forum.
I totally forgot about that post!
12-17-2009, 08:58 PM
#18
Senior Member
RE: Before you ask what RC you should buy READ THIS
whether people read it or not I dont know....usually there is more then one thread at a time asking pretty much the same question....as far as asking people what they are looking to do or how much they are willing to spend does it even matter?...alot of times people post they want to spend say $300...then when people start naming of rc's $300 or less someone always comes on and says you dont want them and suggests say a $700 rc...
I try to name rc's that are below the price people post they are willing to spend unless they are in the hobby already and already have the supporting equipment they will need (I should say want) to run their rc (tools, ignitors, chargers, batteries, fluids, oils, etc).... all this costs money and if you dont clarify that more money will need to be spent, the new person to the hobby doesnt know...a good mislead is electric...sure alot of rtr's come with everything but transmitter batteries....but they usually come with one battery (a small one at that) and a charger they will have to wait for like 8 hrs to charge the battery to run 10 min.. wow loads of fun there...
I try to name rc's that are below the price people post they are willing to spend unless they are in the hobby already and already have the supporting equipment they will need (I should say want) to run their rc (tools, ignitors, chargers, batteries, fluids, oils, etc).... all this costs money and if you dont clarify that more money will need to be spent, the new person to the hobby doesnt know...a good mislead is electric...sure alot of rtr's come with everything but transmitter batteries....but they usually come with one battery (a small one at that) and a charger they will have to wait for like 8 hrs to charge the battery to run 10 min.. wow loads of fun there...
12-17-2009, 10:22 PM
#19
RE: Before you ask what RC you should buy READ THIS
Surprisingly the 1st what RC should I get question of the day the guy read the post and answered the questions its already working and its not even a sticky [X(]
12-17-2009, 10:25 PM
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RE: Before you ask what RC you should buy READ THIS
Mission accomplished! Now to get it a sticky and we're in business. This should be a community thread and we can add to it as we see fit. If you have suggestions, shoot 'em over and I'll add to it.
Now to get it a sticky and we're in business. This should be a community thread and we can add to it as we see fit. If you have suggestions, shoot 'em over and I'll add to it.
12-17-2009, 10:32 PM
#21
RE: Before you ask what RC you should buy READ THIS
I think it is a good idea to make this sticky too. We do get an awful lot of threads that ask what car to get and offer no info at all. Not everyone would read them, but some folks would.
The FAQ on the gas cars was extremely well done. We should do one like that for electrics.
rast4man: if they decide this is not worthy of a sticky, we can just keep bumping it or linking to it...
The FAQ on the gas cars was extremely well done. We should do one like that for electrics.
rast4man: if they decide this is not worthy of a sticky, we can just keep bumping it or linking to it...
12-17-2009, 10:41 PM
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RE: Before you ask what RC you should buy READ THIS
Good thinking. I think it's worthy and not because I made it, it's just something that should be done. We'll see.
ORIGINAL: Jeremy Z
I think it is a good idea to make this sticky too. We do get an awful lot of threads that ask what car to get and offer no info at all. Not everyone would read them, but some folks would.
The FAQ on the gas cars was extremely well done. We should do one like that for electrics.
rast4man: if they decide this is not worthy of a sticky, we can just keep bumping it or linking to it...
I think it is a good idea to make this sticky too. We do get an awful lot of threads that ask what car to get and offer no info at all. Not everyone would read them, but some folks would.
The FAQ on the gas cars was extremely well done. We should do one like that for electrics.
rast4man: if they decide this is not worthy of a sticky, we can just keep bumping it or linking to it...
12-17-2009, 10:48 PM
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RE: Before you ask what RC you should buy READ THIS
There's no doubt that it's needed.
I counted 5 "Which car should I get?" threads on the first page of this forum.
I counted 5 "Which car should I get?" threads on the first page of this forum.
12-18-2009, 09:28 AM
#24
RE: Before you ask what RC you should buy READ THIS
ORIGINAL: SyCo_VeNoM
Surprisingly the 1st what RC should I get question of the day the guy read the post and answered the questions its already working and its not even a sticky [X(]
Surprisingly the 1st what RC should I get question of the day the guy read the post and answered the questions its already working and its not even a sticky [X(]
12-18-2009, 09:28 AM
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RE: Before you ask what RC you should buy READ THIS
I have brought this thread up to the forum manager and will promptly report back when the subject is discussed [sm=thumbs_up.gif]