RevGQ

Just had to have a P-51 to drop my MLD-28 into. Unfortunately, the engine does not fit the cowl well. I had to make cuts for the carb and muffler, but I think the power of the engine will be a good match for this bird.
I started construction by mounting the engine with the supplied stand-offs and 1-1/8 wood extensions to get the desired 6.2" spacing from firewall.
I had to soft mount the ignition system on top of the fuel tank, as mounting it to firewall would have placed it to close to the engine. I wanted to avoid excess heat. In pictures you'll note the hole cut for spark boot.
Now I am waiting on the delivery of Optical kill switch so that I can find suitable location to mount it. Will also utilize Ignition Battery Eliminator and Buffer-Amplifier Interface to prevent any interference from engine to radio signal.

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RevGQ

Wasn't sure what my $139.00 would get me in the way of retracts, especially after paying some $300.00 for Century Jet rigs. I was quite surprised when they arrive however. The aluminum wheels were most satisfactory.
Just in case anyone was curious about the weight of oleos and wheels, I put them on the scale.

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planebuilder66

My Feedback: (8)

How much clearence you have between your radio equipment and that ignition box?

RevGQ

Currently, I have a bit over six inches to the nearest servo. The Rx will be much farther aft and I plan on using buffer amplifiers and possibly ignition battery eliminators even with separate batteries for Rx and Ignition.

RevGQ

Had some time over the holiday to install the elevator and flap servos followed by the retract and wheel-well covers and retract air-lines. The plastic started to crack during the cut, but a quick blast from the heat gun made the work manageable. The wing was then joined. I usually glass the center-section, but I am debating whether to do so on this model. If I do decide to glass the center-section, I will have to take remnants from the wheel-well covers into Home Depot for a paint color match for repainting the center-section of wing. Note, retracts weighed 1-1/2 lbs.

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RevGQ

In the pictures you'll see the ignition module atop the front end of the fuel tank. Just behind it is the S.M. Engine Kill unit, throttle servo, and retract air-valve and its servo. Finally in the rear is the fill valve (the valve I think is defective as it does not hold air when connection is unscrewed after filling tank) and the air tank. Thanks to Great Planes providing a styro foam plane stand, I use part of that stand to mount the air tank. I chose not to glue it in, rather I secured it by tapping the servo deck for 4-40 cap heads and used a strip of hard wood to hold it in place.

Next, I will begin mounting the wing to the fuse. I have never like this part of building ARFs as it seems to be a hit or miss process even with the use of rulers and calipers. I presume that the most critical aspect would be getting the true center lines of both wing and fuse and then getting one's drill bit guided properly.

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RevGQ

Did not like idea of permanently mounting drop tanks.

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RevGQ

Looks like my removable drop tanks idea might work out. Used 4-40 threaded rods, 4-40 wood inserts tygon fuel tubing and acorn nuts to mount. There is an acorn nut in upper half so that the upper half is between the nut and tubing. I then used CA to glue halves together. I will cut off excess 4-40 rod and lock down tanks with an acorn nut.

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RevGQ

Removable drop tanks worked out fine for me. I had purchased the Dynamic Balsa cockpit, but I was so far along in the build that I felt it would be a hassle to rearrange servos and air canister for cockpit installation. However, I will place order for another P-51D and do up the cockpit prior to mounting the other equipment. The retracts are working great, though I will need to slow them down just a bit. For $139 they are quite a bargain.
This was the first plane where I had to assemble a pull/pull system. I need some practice in crimping as my assembly did not come out looking real pretty, but I did learn something new, and that's what this hobby is all about. The canopy like the other plastic parts was very brittle. Taking the advice of someone in the P-51B forum, I used the dremel to cut away the waste material, and then used a drum sander on the drill press to dress it up properly. RC-56 glue was used to attach canopy to fuse. When I construct the next one, I will mount canopy with screws.
I had also decided to use the quick hinges on elevator and ailerons after see a tutorial that boasted their strength. We'll see how well they work out.


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simpros1

My Feedback: (16)

I'm building one! Did you fly this baby yet?

RevGQ

I have been flying helis, and playing lots of golf. Hope to get nine new planes in air soon.

caseycherish08

Hey Rev

Yhe plane is looking great, Im about a week or two into my build, using a DLE 30cc gas with rear carb, waiting on my retracts to arrive next week. I was thinking of mounting the ignition module to the front side of the formers in front of the fuel tank. I like the idead of the removable drop tanks ....thats great. Here are a few pictures of mine so far. This is my first build so Im excited and worried at the same time. It took me along time to configure the chike and throttle servos and linkage. But Just got them working perfect today, Let me know how it flies.

Thanks

Casey

PS how do you upload photos on here?

rgm762

My Feedback: (4)

click on the "reply" icon, when the new screen pops up, at the bottom of the page you'll see "click here to uplaod images and files"

caseycherish08

ok Im going to try to attach pictures of my build so far....

caseycherish08

sorry this is harder than it should be.... or Im not as smart as I should be.. Trying to get more pics on here

rc34074

My Feedback: (5)

Casey- I have a couple of questions -

1. How far is it from the carb of the dle30 to the firewall? Looks like less than 1/2 inch? Does that engine location put the prop att he correct location for the cowl design?

2. What muffler will you be using?

Just wondered.

By the way I live in Little Elm not far from you. Where do you fly?

Ed

caseycherish08

Ed

There is 10mm between the firewall and the carb, it backs up tp the predrilled hole from the factory so there should be plenty of air flow. I am still looking at exhaust, I was first considering seeing if Kelvin at Keleo creations had a scale exhuast for DLE30 but after looking at the prices it was a little more than I wanted to spend so I will most likly go with a JTec Pitts wrap around. This way it will not disturb the cowl and the beautiful lines of this warbird will be kept. As far as the correct location of the prop..... I attached a picture of the gap, I ordered my spinner yesterday, with the backing plate there will be a little gap but tell me what you thinik, This is my first build. I think it will be OK it looks good to me but like I said This is my first. By the way I fly over in Kennedale right now at the Seven Towers RC club field. I have flown in grapevine a few times.
Thanks for any input.

Casey

caseycherish08

Help???
I am currently testing my servos just for travel and function using an a 6ch radio system. But for some reason my flaps are moving opposite of each other. I am using a why harnesss into the flap port of the receiver. I know this is probably a simple fix but it has me stumped. Please let me know what Im doing wrong.

Casey

Lifer

My Feedback: (1)

Get a "reversing" Y harness.

caseycherish08

Thank you! I did not know they made such a thing but I figured it was simple.....Thanks again.

Lifer

My Feedback: (1)

Any Horizon Hobbies dealer can get it for you.

fockewulf37

My Feedback: (102)

He Guys. I have had the one sitting on the back burner for a while. I finally got around to it and got a cockpit done for it......

Ty

caseycherish08

Ty

That looks great.... a couple of questions. How much room does it take up on interior of the fuselage? Where did you get that canopy ? it looks much nicer than the stock canopy that the plane comes with.

Thanks

Casey

fockewulf37

My Feedback: (102)

Thanks.
The cockpit takes up most of the servo Tray. But you can easily make a new one just behind the front cockpit area. I'll have some install vid'sup later today or tomorrow. I make molds off of the original canopies because they are soo Fragile. I pull them out of .040 PETG and they are alot more flexable. You just have to paint them. The tend to be alot clearer that the ones from china...

Ty

fockewulf37

My Feedback: (102)

Well here are my cockpit installation vids.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zizw235lUdk
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QWf7_Gnvf88
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YMEkkE2xssw
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xHJpeBSD-ZU

I did not originally put in the canopy Brace but I went back in and made a resin piece for it...Final pic's...

Ty