I've managed to wreck my Ultra bandit canopy by using CA as the instructions said. The problem is that the ZAP makes the normally flexible canopy very brittle. I have done tests with CA and kicker and just CA on its own and the results are the same, the canopy just snaps instead of bending. I have used that white canopy glue and it really does stick very well but it's a nightmare to work with and does not wipe off well.

So a question for those of you with perfect canopy’s, what glue do you use and how do you do it?!!

Thanks
Jason

I usually tack it in place with thick cyno, then use 30 min epoxy sparingly round it all. Applied with a 2mm rod.

Jason,

I do not have the answer, however I share your grief, it can be a nightmare glueing canopy's in place.

Pacer formula 56 is the best in my opinion. This used to be called RC56. It looks like Elmer’s white glue but dries crystal clear. Only down side is it takes time to dry.....like old school glue. It wipes clean with a water dampened paper towel with no resulting damage. If this was not available I would use (and have) epoxy. CA is just to unpredictable for me. I usually end up with that white fogging that can’t be removed.

Another Alternative (Same Thing as RC 56 but easier to find) is Fabric Glue, which can be purchased just about anywhere.

It's funny you should ask I just happened to be repairing my FB T-45 canopy yesterday and I have a photo,
What you see is the paper pattern that I created to cut out the canopy. I left it on the inside of the canopy to protect it while I was gluing it in place.

E-6000...

V..

Zap-a-dap-a-goo works well; if you tape off the canopy first. The residue will peel off with the tape.

HI, what always works best for me, is to use very , very small tacks with thick cyno ,followed by a pin which was just dipped into kicker to set up. After that, use anyone of the Canopy white glues (RC56).
Rcpete

I use 5 minute epoxy. I start by securing the topmost parts of the canopy. Once I have canopy properly positioned, I tape as much of the canopy and canopy frame as possible with blue masking tape to protect it from sticky fingers and drips of epoxy. I then apply a heavy coat of petroleum jelly to exposed, untaped areas of the canopy and the canopy frame.

I then apply epoxy to a couple of inches of canopy at a time. I work from the middle out, whenever possible I apply epoxy from the inside of the canopy and the affix as many clamps as possible. Once the epoxy starts to gel I clean the joint up and remove the vasoline with small amounts of 91% isopropyl alcohol (too much alcohol weakens epoxy) and the back edge of a hobby knife. 5 minute epoxy remains soluble in alcohol for about 20 minutes.

if you use enough clamps, this method completely fills in the gap between the canopy and frame.

Our UB came out pretty good with this method.

Phil

Jase,

I normally use a contact adhesive - Thixofix is good and I've used Zap a Dap a Goo with good results. Only problem is that (even though they claim you can re-position components before final pressure is applied) you really need to get it right first time to avoid any 'stringy' bits. Another downside with this is that any excess is not easy to get off...but once the parts are stuck, they're stuck!

Cheers,

Dick

Gotta go with Vincent ..... use E 6000 once ! and you'll never use anything else for canopies, or where you need a flexible joint .
Semper Fi
Joe

Goop works well and it's easy to rub off any excess residue.

Joe

I think Phil has the right idea. I tack the midline sections of the canopy with 5 minute epoxy, for and aft. I then mix another lot of 30 minute epoxy , add some filler (milled glass fibre) so that it does not run and then put it in a 10 ml syringe and lay down a uniform bead of material around the periphery of the canopy frame. This is the most critical point of the whole process. If you put the right amount of adhesive then there is no excess to clean up and you can concentrate on positioning. Loads of time to work. I NEVER use zap. If you use the filler, the epoxy is less likely to creep and move into a visible section of the canopy glass. You can even tint it black with epoxy tint if you like.

Hope that helps.

Craig.

I use since a few years Zap formula canopy glue!

http://www.hpvjets.nl/index.php?opti...d=51&Itemid=65

This is a great glue and fingerprints are easy removed with water!

Jason, another worthy candidate is Devweld 530, its a Methacrylate, sets up in 5 mins and bonds anything to anything, a small dab and hold in place with small clamp or peg and slowly work you way around the canopy. Devweld 531 (another product from Devcon) is comparable to Aeropoxy, sets up in around 20 mins to handle with full cure in 12-16hrs, bonds incredibly to almost anything, requires little or no surface preparation (so good when its impossible to get to places to do so). The smell takes some getting used to but great products.

Good luck.

marcs

Pacer 56......I like it the best as you can remove any excess that squirts out along the edges easily with just water on a paper towel......most of the others I have tried, including E-6000 seem to leave a smear unless you very carefully use dilute isopropyl alchohol. P56 Does take upwards of a week to fully dry, but becomes tack-solid in about 48-72 hrs. I just start my canopy first and let it dry while I do the rest of the build.

I also use a combination of clamps and magnets to hold it in place like Henk Visser demonstrates on his website.

I have found some of this E 6000 on EBay so I have ordered some of that and I picked some Pacer 560 from motors and Rotors the other day so I'll experiment with the two.

Thanks for the replies.

Jason

Formula 560 canopy Glue by Pacer. Found this trick out years ago and have used nothing but 560 since. Found a link to it and at $2.67 it's a bargain. I have yet to finish my first bottle, almost like a lifetime supply!

http://www.scalehobbyist.com/catagor...66/product.php

Steve.

[8D]

you can get e6000 at wall mart in craft section if you ever use it you want stop also great for gluing in formers in fuselage

Jason, Here's an image of a Meister Scale P-51 canopy I used on a sport model of mine. The attachment area was scuffed up with 100 grit sand paper on the inside an out. Zpoxy Finishing Resin was used to bond the canopy in place and it was held on with masking tape. A 1/2 inch strip of fiberglass tape was epoxied half on the canopy and half on the fuselage. A mixture of the resin and micro balloons smoothes out the installation. The canopy stayed in place during one devastating crash after a midair with a large bird, the bird flew off, the model did not, and was used again on the replacement fuselage. Dan.

Yep, a buddy of mine - who is an excellent builder, suggested that and I just tried it for the first time. It works great and like Joe said, the excess can be rudded off easily.

Bob

I use hot glue gun.  If you ever need to take the canopy off, just heat it up, wipes clean with some heat as well.

Wrigleys chewing gum - sticks to my clothes good enough
Only kidding!

Laura

I use #2 allen head button screws... First I tape the canopy onto the aircraft and get it perfect with the blue masking tape... then I start putting in the screws.

As I told Jason I always use ZAP Slow to tack it in and then ZAP 560 from the inside, depends who the canopy is from, I use CA (ZAP20) only on the CARF canopies without them cracking, my Bandit ARF (3+) years and BobCat Composite use just CA and both have been fine.

Dw