HeliArtist 109 build
02-27-2010 | 09:36 PM
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HeliArtist 109 build
OK guys...If you've been interested in the HeliArtist A-109, I'm in the process of building a photo index and I plan on giving a review on this particular product. I will be posting here shortly. If you've seen Kip Newby's review, it's about like the directions included with the kit....a little short on info and photos. Mine was the white kit because I like the option of applying my own scheme and colors. Keep in mind, I'm not here to praise it or butcher it as a personal agenda. I will give my perspective of what I feel is good or bad about it, and hopefully help anyone who is considering building one. I am a heli hobbiest...not a paid representitive.
Background: I retired from the US Navy as an aircraft structural repairman first class (AMS1/E-6). I know a little something about fiberglass, helicopters, and fixed wing aircraft.
I've been to aircraft maintenance school as well as fiberglass and paint schools in the military, many hours working on E2-B's, P-3 Orions, CH-53, SH2's, and assorted many others as well as assigned to aircraft intermediate maintenace department as a airframes shop supervisor.
OK.....I'll get the ball rolling in a few days...stay tuned.
Background: I retired from the US Navy as an aircraft structural repairman first class (AMS1/E-6). I know a little something about fiberglass, helicopters, and fixed wing aircraft.
I've been to aircraft maintenance school as well as fiberglass and paint schools in the military, many hours working on E2-B's, P-3 Orions, CH-53, SH2's, and assorted many others as well as assigned to aircraft intermediate maintenace department as a airframes shop supervisor.
OK.....I'll get the ball rolling in a few days...stay tuned.
03-01-2010 | 11:52 AM
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RE: HeliArtist 109 build
If you've seen Kip Newby's build or went to Heliartist's website, you already know what comes with it but here's the link:
http://www.heliartist.com/showroom/h...hite-p-27.html
When I opened the box to inspect the unit, I noted cracks at both of the rear retract wells on the forward side, the crack on the right was 3" long going forward, the crack on the left was 1.5" going forward, yes, the paint was cracked as well. On the right side front cabin door post, it was cracked in 3 places, very close together and made the door post very weak. Theres the first thing you gotta do...repair the cracks.
Since I was gonna custom paint it anyway, I wasn't conserned about the paint being cracked. I used 120 and 220 sand paper to take the damaged areas down to bare fiberglass. You can either epoxy the damage from the inside or use thin CA. I chose thin CA and let it soak into the cracks making sure not to use excessive amounts, and let it dry completely, sanded off the excess CA, and the cracks were gone.
Now with the cracks repaired.....onto the next step (to be continued).....
After thought....Had this been a model I didn't want to do a customized paint job, it would have been trouble. Matching up the paint would have been about impossible. The white I found that was closest was Rustoleum high gloss white, and it was about 1 shade off. Dollar store gloss white was NO match at all, it had a yellow tint to it. Another problem was, when painting over the original paint, there was a reaction that cracked and softened the original paint. So....it has to be preped, and primed before paint can be applied, or you end up with a mess....which I did...you'll see it later in some more detailed pictures.
http://www.heliartist.com/showroom/h...hite-p-27.html
When I opened the box to inspect the unit, I noted cracks at both of the rear retract wells on the forward side, the crack on the right was 3" long going forward, the crack on the left was 1.5" going forward, yes, the paint was cracked as well. On the right side front cabin door post, it was cracked in 3 places, very close together and made the door post very weak. Theres the first thing you gotta do...repair the cracks.
Since I was gonna custom paint it anyway, I wasn't conserned about the paint being cracked. I used 120 and 220 sand paper to take the damaged areas down to bare fiberglass. You can either epoxy the damage from the inside or use thin CA. I chose thin CA and let it soak into the cracks making sure not to use excessive amounts, and let it dry completely, sanded off the excess CA, and the cracks were gone.
Now with the cracks repaired.....onto the next step (to be continued).....
After thought....Had this been a model I didn't want to do a customized paint job, it would have been trouble. Matching up the paint would have been about impossible. The white I found that was closest was Rustoleum high gloss white, and it was about 1 shade off. Dollar store gloss white was NO match at all, it had a yellow tint to it. Another problem was, when painting over the original paint, there was a reaction that cracked and softened the original paint. So....it has to be preped, and primed before paint can be applied, or you end up with a mess....which I did...you'll see it later in some more detailed pictures.
03-01-2010 | 04:16 PM
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RE: HeliArtist 109 build
OK guys.....here's the heli mount system:
Making the helicopter frame mount that attaches the helicopter frame to the fuselage:
I bought two pieces of basswood (hardwood):
#1. 1" wide x 1/8" thick x 3ft long
#2. 1" wide x 1/4" thick x 3ft long
You will need four 6-32 blind nuts and four 6-32 pan head screws as well as four rubber washers found at any local hardware store.
Make the following pieces to be assembled:
Base (the piece that attaches to the helicopter) 2-1/2" long x 1" wide x 1/8 thick (make 2 of them)
Stand off pieces. Using the 1/4" thick stuff, 2-1/2" long x 1/2" wide x 1/4" thick (make 5 of them)
Front piece using the 1/8" thick stuff 2-1/2" long x 1/2" wide x 1/8" thick (make one piece)
This is going to be a stack build of the mounts starting with the front mount.
Take one of the 2-1/2 x 1/2 x 1/4 pieces. Measure from the end of the block 5/16 from the end tword the center (do both ends of the block) and mark it in the center of the block. So, that would be from the end 5/16, and 1/4 from edge to center.
Note: You can elect to clamp them together to drill, or drill each block. I recommend making precise measurements and drilling each block because hard wood sometimes likes to split. Use a 1/16 pilot drill bit first, and then drill with a 3/16" drill bit.
Repeat the above and drill the 2-1/2 x 1/2 x 1/8 piece that will be used on the front mount.
Drill all 5 of the 2-1/2 x 1/2 x 1/4 blocks, and then stack them to ensure they're right do the same with the one 1/8" thick block....match 'em up and you can see all the way through on both sets of holes.
Now....while you're thinking about the next step, take the blind nuts and put a drop of oil down the threads...you know why.
Take two of the 2-1/2 x 1/2 x 1/4 blocks, and get the blind nuts together. Using a large drill bit (I used a 23/64" bit) Counter drill the existing holes so the blind nuts will fit flush in the two blocks. Apply a drop or two of epoxy into the counter drilled holes, and press the blind nuts in, and ensure the 3/16" holes are clear, use a Q-Tip to get rid of the excess....let it cure. You should be able to lay one block over the blind nut block and have a perfect flush fit.
Assemble the front mount. Using epoxy sparingly, place the blind nut block (flange tword base block) lining up the forward edge, then add the next 2-1/2 x 1/2 x 1/4, and then add the 2-1/2 x 1/2 x 1/8 block....line them all up. At this point, I clamped it in a vise and allowed it to cure, wiping the squeeze out epoxy with a rag that had alcohol on it before it dried.
After it's cured, mark for the holes to attach it to the heli frame and drill. I have the stand off blocks forward. You build the rear exactly the same way except instead of using two 1/4" pieces and a 1/8 peice like you did on the front, on the rear you use three 1/4" pieces stacked...it gives proper angle.
For the mounts, you could fabricate anything you like....it don't matter. As long as the heli frame sits in the fuselage correctly, and the boom of the heli is centered in the boom of the fuselage...and the heli frame is securely attached to the mount and the fuselage.
See pics of blocks I made. I will cover setting retracts next because you cannot mount the heli to the fuse without allowing clearance for the rear retract servo which needs to be installed first.
Making the helicopter frame mount that attaches the helicopter frame to the fuselage:
I bought two pieces of basswood (hardwood):
#1. 1" wide x 1/8" thick x 3ft long
#2. 1" wide x 1/4" thick x 3ft long
You will need four 6-32 blind nuts and four 6-32 pan head screws as well as four rubber washers found at any local hardware store.
Make the following pieces to be assembled:
Base (the piece that attaches to the helicopter) 2-1/2" long x 1" wide x 1/8 thick (make 2 of them)
Stand off pieces. Using the 1/4" thick stuff, 2-1/2" long x 1/2" wide x 1/4" thick (make 5 of them)
Front piece using the 1/8" thick stuff 2-1/2" long x 1/2" wide x 1/8" thick (make one piece)
This is going to be a stack build of the mounts starting with the front mount.
Take one of the 2-1/2 x 1/2 x 1/4 pieces. Measure from the end of the block 5/16 from the end tword the center (do both ends of the block) and mark it in the center of the block. So, that would be from the end 5/16, and 1/4 from edge to center.
Note: You can elect to clamp them together to drill, or drill each block. I recommend making precise measurements and drilling each block because hard wood sometimes likes to split. Use a 1/16 pilot drill bit first, and then drill with a 3/16" drill bit.
Repeat the above and drill the 2-1/2 x 1/2 x 1/8 piece that will be used on the front mount.
Drill all 5 of the 2-1/2 x 1/2 x 1/4 blocks, and then stack them to ensure they're right do the same with the one 1/8" thick block....match 'em up and you can see all the way through on both sets of holes.
Now....while you're thinking about the next step, take the blind nuts and put a drop of oil down the threads...you know why.
Take two of the 2-1/2 x 1/2 x 1/4 blocks, and get the blind nuts together. Using a large drill bit (I used a 23/64" bit) Counter drill the existing holes so the blind nuts will fit flush in the two blocks. Apply a drop or two of epoxy into the counter drilled holes, and press the blind nuts in, and ensure the 3/16" holes are clear, use a Q-Tip to get rid of the excess....let it cure. You should be able to lay one block over the blind nut block and have a perfect flush fit.
Assemble the front mount. Using epoxy sparingly, place the blind nut block (flange tword base block) lining up the forward edge, then add the next 2-1/2 x 1/2 x 1/4, and then add the 2-1/2 x 1/2 x 1/8 block....line them all up. At this point, I clamped it in a vise and allowed it to cure, wiping the squeeze out epoxy with a rag that had alcohol on it before it dried.
After it's cured, mark for the holes to attach it to the heli frame and drill. I have the stand off blocks forward. You build the rear exactly the same way except instead of using two 1/4" pieces and a 1/8 peice like you did on the front, on the rear you use three 1/4" pieces stacked...it gives proper angle.
For the mounts, you could fabricate anything you like....it don't matter. As long as the heli frame sits in the fuselage correctly, and the boom of the heli is centered in the boom of the fuselage...and the heli frame is securely attached to the mount and the fuselage.
See pics of blocks I made. I will cover setting retracts next because you cannot mount the heli to the fuse without allowing clearance for the rear retract servo which needs to be installed first.
03-02-2010 | 04:56 PM
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RE: HeliArtist 109 build
Retract installation:
Credits...pics come from Kip Newby's build on the retracts and he was spot on with his tutorial on the retracts.
Before you can install the heli into the fuse, you must install the retractable gear system and servos first. Clearance between the rear of the helicopter frame and the rear retracts servo must be addressed when you do mount the heli to the fuse.
I started with the front retract for obvious reasons..it's easy to get to. A standard 9G servo will work on the front but I recommend 10g or bigger like the HS65's, prefrably a digital MG servo with good servo horns that are not brittle and could shatter.
Test fit the front retract unit into the hole. You will note a gap in the front and the retract unit will not slide completely tight against the forward part of the recess for the retract. The fit lines on the retract are 100% square, the front of the recess for the retract unit is rounded. Use a dremmel and clean the recess up so the retract unit fits squarely against the front of the recess with zero gap. The gap situation applys to all three retracts....ensure proper fit on all 3, and installation of the retract units is the same on all 3.
Now you have the gap situation taken care of, time to install them. You'll note on all three retract recesses, there's micro ply inside the fuse for the screws to grab glued to the fiberglass. That's all fine and dandy but my experience was the micro ply delaminated while drilling/installing screws. My advice is to use 5 minuet epoxy and cover those pieces of wood on all three mount places with epoxy and let it cure.
Place the retract assembly into the recess and make sure a proper fit. Mark the holes to be drilled in the bottom of the fuselage using the screw holes in the retract unit as reference and remove the retract unit. Drill the 4 holes with the proper size drill bit for the screws you will be using, then place the retract unit back in the recess to verify being correct. I used small pan head screws from the local hardware store. As you screw the unit into it's place I put a drop of thin CA on each screw, and quickly run it in....DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN. Do this procedure for all three retract units.
Installing the landig gear wire into the retract units....this is TRICKY. As noted in Kip Newby's build, screwing in the gear wire into the retract may break them. I used a #11 exacto knife, and I opened the holes where the wires thread into the retracts and I thought I had them opened enough. As I was threading the wires into the holes, the plastic at the bottom of the hole started to blush (change color). Guess what? Weak spot and it did break off right at the base rendering the one retract unit unrepairable and useless (when I landed after a test flight)....I'll get into that later. So....in my opinion (what I should have done), drill out the holes gently and carefully with a drill bit that allows the gear wire to go in very easily, but not too loose. Try NOT to have the plastic blush while drilling...it means you basically destroyed it. With it drilled out and being able to install the wire easily with no blush at the base, remove the wire, put a couple drops of 5 minuet epoxy down the hole and gibe the wire threads a light coat of epoxy. Place the wires at the proper depth in the hole and make sure the wheels are exactly straight (remove any excess epoxy with alcohol and a rag) and allow the epoxy to cure for an hour or better. This should take care of the breakage problem. After all three have cured and all is well, install the servos as required (see pics). Note: the end where the push rod connects to the retract unit from the servo is ALSO a WEAK spot...expect breakge, and make real sure there's no binding and it's as straight a push/pull movement as possible when the servo operates the retract units. Now you got the retracts in and set up making sure there's no movement of either front or rear retract servo and the well holes are opened up so the wheels do not hit while retracting and everything is nice and smooth....it's now time to fit the heli to the fuselage.
Credits...pics come from Kip Newby's build on the retracts and he was spot on with his tutorial on the retracts.
Before you can install the heli into the fuse, you must install the retractable gear system and servos first. Clearance between the rear of the helicopter frame and the rear retracts servo must be addressed when you do mount the heli to the fuse.
I started with the front retract for obvious reasons..it's easy to get to. A standard 9G servo will work on the front but I recommend 10g or bigger like the HS65's, prefrably a digital MG servo with good servo horns that are not brittle and could shatter.
Test fit the front retract unit into the hole. You will note a gap in the front and the retract unit will not slide completely tight against the forward part of the recess for the retract. The fit lines on the retract are 100% square, the front of the recess for the retract unit is rounded. Use a dremmel and clean the recess up so the retract unit fits squarely against the front of the recess with zero gap. The gap situation applys to all three retracts....ensure proper fit on all 3, and installation of the retract units is the same on all 3.
Now you have the gap situation taken care of, time to install them. You'll note on all three retract recesses, there's micro ply inside the fuse for the screws to grab glued to the fiberglass. That's all fine and dandy but my experience was the micro ply delaminated while drilling/installing screws. My advice is to use 5 minuet epoxy and cover those pieces of wood on all three mount places with epoxy and let it cure.
Place the retract assembly into the recess and make sure a proper fit. Mark the holes to be drilled in the bottom of the fuselage using the screw holes in the retract unit as reference and remove the retract unit. Drill the 4 holes with the proper size drill bit for the screws you will be using, then place the retract unit back in the recess to verify being correct. I used small pan head screws from the local hardware store. As you screw the unit into it's place I put a drop of thin CA on each screw, and quickly run it in....DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN. Do this procedure for all three retract units.
Installing the landig gear wire into the retract units....this is TRICKY. As noted in Kip Newby's build, screwing in the gear wire into the retract may break them. I used a #11 exacto knife, and I opened the holes where the wires thread into the retracts and I thought I had them opened enough. As I was threading the wires into the holes, the plastic at the bottom of the hole started to blush (change color). Guess what? Weak spot and it did break off right at the base rendering the one retract unit unrepairable and useless (when I landed after a test flight)....I'll get into that later. So....in my opinion (what I should have done), drill out the holes gently and carefully with a drill bit that allows the gear wire to go in very easily, but not too loose. Try NOT to have the plastic blush while drilling...it means you basically destroyed it. With it drilled out and being able to install the wire easily with no blush at the base, remove the wire, put a couple drops of 5 minuet epoxy down the hole and gibe the wire threads a light coat of epoxy. Place the wires at the proper depth in the hole and make sure the wheels are exactly straight (remove any excess epoxy with alcohol and a rag) and allow the epoxy to cure for an hour or better. This should take care of the breakage problem. After all three have cured and all is well, install the servos as required (see pics). Note: the end where the push rod connects to the retract unit from the servo is ALSO a WEAK spot...expect breakge, and make real sure there's no binding and it's as straight a push/pull movement as possible when the servo operates the retract units. Now you got the retracts in and set up making sure there's no movement of either front or rear retract servo and the well holes are opened up so the wheels do not hit while retracting and everything is nice and smooth....it's now time to fit the heli to the fuselage.
03-02-2010 | 07:40 PM
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RE: HeliArtist 109 build
Fitting the heli frame into the fuse. I used the same method as Kip Newby making a template to transfer hole marks to the fuselage, everything was done inside the fuse. With the mounts installed on the heli, I installed the heli frame inside the fuse, ensuring the tail boom of the heli was centered in the tail boom of the fuse, and did NOT interfere with the rear retract operation (leave a little gap so the servo can operate without hitting the heli frame). I then marked two lines on the fuse bottom to tell me how deep to put the template. You can see the little dash marks in front of the holes. I laid the template in the fuse, lined it center and put the leading edge of the template on the dash marks, and drilled the holes from the inside using a dremmel.
The screws that mount the heli to the fuse...back screws will be about 3/4", the front screws will be about 1/2"...do not over tighten, they will crack the fuse, I used rubber washers which work real good. On the inside where the screws come through, I recommend putting #10 washers and epoxy them in place as Kip did...it just makes sense. Basically....that's the end of the build with retracts, other than putting the windshield and top glass in which is straight forward...use epoxy and be careful with the windshield...the paint jumps right off it. Of course, then you install the horizontal stab with epoxy, I used masking tape to hold them while they cured, doing one side at a time. Installing the tail skid involved drilling a hole in the lower vertical fin, threading it in with thin CA on the threads.
Next....what happend to my retractable gear system?
The screws that mount the heli to the fuse...back screws will be about 3/4", the front screws will be about 1/2"...do not over tighten, they will crack the fuse, I used rubber washers which work real good. On the inside where the screws come through, I recommend putting #10 washers and epoxy them in place as Kip did...it just makes sense. Basically....that's the end of the build with retracts, other than putting the windshield and top glass in which is straight forward...use epoxy and be careful with the windshield...the paint jumps right off it. Of course, then you install the horizontal stab with epoxy, I used masking tape to hold them while they cured, doing one side at a time. Installing the tail skid involved drilling a hole in the lower vertical fin, threading it in with thin CA on the threads.
Next....what happend to my retractable gear system?
03-02-2010 | 08:26 PM
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RE: HeliArtist 109 build
"What happen to your retract system?" Well, I'm so glad you ask. As you noticed in some of the pictures, I basically removed the retract system and made a fixed gear system (sorry about the crappy pics). I filled in the retract unit wells with hardwood and drilled it out to accept the landing gear wires, and filled in the wheel wells with balsa using thin CA and epoxy. My reason:
The retract units will be subject to failure and breakage because of being weak in design...I can't fix that. I've done a lot of scalers including a 222 with a really trashy retract system that broke on landing and cause total destruction of the fuselage...been there, done that. I've done a Bell Ranger, that is an excellent scaler to build and flys well. I like the A-109, I wanted wheels instead of skids, and this model looks great. Going to a fixed gear system eliminates impending problems and possible damage due to failure....just my logic. The second time I hovered this 109 with retracts, the right gear broke causing a tipover, lucky for me, no damage other than the retract. So here's some pics of it as a fixed gear and a note about the supplied wheels. The supplied wheels are LOW BOUNCE plastic hub which translates to shock directly to the heli. I replaced the stock wheels with Dubro rubber with aluminum hubs. Yeah...it can be a little bouncy, but damage will be a LOT less to the fuselage.
The retract units will be subject to failure and breakage because of being weak in design...I can't fix that. I've done a lot of scalers including a 222 with a really trashy retract system that broke on landing and cause total destruction of the fuselage...been there, done that. I've done a Bell Ranger, that is an excellent scaler to build and flys well. I like the A-109, I wanted wheels instead of skids, and this model looks great. Going to a fixed gear system eliminates impending problems and possible damage due to failure....just my logic. The second time I hovered this 109 with retracts, the right gear broke causing a tipover, lucky for me, no damage other than the retract. So here's some pics of it as a fixed gear and a note about the supplied wheels. The supplied wheels are LOW BOUNCE plastic hub which translates to shock directly to the heli. I replaced the stock wheels with Dubro rubber with aluminum hubs. Yeah...it can be a little bouncy, but damage will be a LOT less to the fuselage.
03-02-2010 | 08:58 PM
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RE: HeliArtist 109 build
What I think of the HeliArtist A-109:
Dislikes:
OK, you know I don't like the retract system because of quality, that's a given. The cutouts for the wheel wells were off by more than tolerable amounts and by the time you opened them up enough where the wheels didn't touch the fuse when they came up...it made it look awkward. Having the fuselage cracked in 6 places when I opened the package didn't make me real happy either. I didn't like how the paint jumped off the windshield when I went to install it either. I think the directions included with the kit were at best....SPARSE. I did like Kip Newby's build thread at HeliArtist website, but I found it to be a little lacking in information, hence the REASON I'm posting this build thread here at RCU.
Likes:
The A-109 by Heliartist (meaning the fuselage it's self) other than the above mentioned is BY FAR the best scaler I've ever owned. It looks great, it hovers good, and not having to face failure of retracts makes this as good as a Bell 206 fuselage...except it has wheels. The quality of the fiberglass job is very good. I can't really make comment on paint, I stripped mine down and re-painted it to what I wanted it.
It was a MASSIVE amount of work, but I think the final results made it worth it...I'm happy with what I have here.
Here's an interesting note conserning CG. Kip Newby, if I read his build correctly stated CG was corrected by just over two ounces of weight. For me to achieve perfect CG, it took eleven 230 grain .45 caliber lead bullets in the nose wrapped with tape to hold them together. Well....that's 5 ounces of weight give or take. To put it in proper perspective for you, a baby at 3 months old takes 6 ounces in a single feeding from a bottle. That is a LOT of weight and I really haven't figured out how to address it as yet. Just something to be aware of.
Dislikes:
OK, you know I don't like the retract system because of quality, that's a given. The cutouts for the wheel wells were off by more than tolerable amounts and by the time you opened them up enough where the wheels didn't touch the fuse when they came up...it made it look awkward. Having the fuselage cracked in 6 places when I opened the package didn't make me real happy either. I didn't like how the paint jumped off the windshield when I went to install it either. I think the directions included with the kit were at best....SPARSE. I did like Kip Newby's build thread at HeliArtist website, but I found it to be a little lacking in information, hence the REASON I'm posting this build thread here at RCU.
Likes:
The A-109 by Heliartist (meaning the fuselage it's self) other than the above mentioned is BY FAR the best scaler I've ever owned. It looks great, it hovers good, and not having to face failure of retracts makes this as good as a Bell 206 fuselage...except it has wheels. The quality of the fiberglass job is very good. I can't really make comment on paint, I stripped mine down and re-painted it to what I wanted it.
It was a MASSIVE amount of work, but I think the final results made it worth it...I'm happy with what I have here.
Here's an interesting note conserning CG. Kip Newby, if I read his build correctly stated CG was corrected by just over two ounces of weight. For me to achieve perfect CG, it took eleven 230 grain .45 caliber lead bullets in the nose wrapped with tape to hold them together. Well....that's 5 ounces of weight give or take. To put it in proper perspective for you, a baby at 3 months old takes 6 ounces in a single feeding from a bottle. That is a LOT of weight and I really haven't figured out how to address it as yet. Just something to be aware of.
03-02-2010 | 10:16 PM
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RE: HeliArtist 109 build
Vic,
An excellent set of photos and write-up. I know I'm not at the stage of scale heli building now, but when I am I'm coming back here. It's a real shame about the retracts, scale is already setting it apart but retracts would have been a nice touch. Thinking of redoing that later with something after market or what not?
Take care,
An excellent set of photos and write-up. I know I'm not at the stage of scale heli building now, but when I am I'm coming back here. It's a real shame about the retracts, scale is already setting it apart but retracts would have been a nice touch. Thinking of redoing that later with something after market or what not?
Take care,
03-02-2010 | 10:30 PM
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RE: HeliArtist 109 build
ORIGINAL: erkrystof
Vic,
An excellent set of photos and write-up. I know I'm not at the stage of scale heli building now, but when I am I'm coming back here. It's a real shame about the retracts, scale is already setting it apart but retracts would have been a nice touch. Thinking of redoing that later with something after market or what not?
Take care,
Vic,
An excellent set of photos and write-up. I know I'm not at the stage of scale heli building now, but when I am I'm coming back here. It's a real shame about the retracts, scale is already setting it apart but retracts would have been a nice touch. Thinking of redoing that later with something after market or what not?
Take care,
03-03-2010 | 08:13 PM
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RE: HeliArtist 109 build
ORIGINAL: theradioflyer
That's the kind of review I like to read. To the point and honest. Your a builders builder.
Well done Vic[8D]
God Bless,
Jay
That's the kind of review I like to read. To the point and honest. Your a builders builder.
Well done Vic[8D]
God Bless,
Jay
03-04-2010 | 10:39 PM
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RE: HeliArtist 109 build
This is a build update. I finally got my 335mm and 325mm blades in. I did 3 test hovers with the 335's adjusting pitch settings etc...I had heat probs and she was a little sloppy in handling. I could not get it where it would fly good with the 335mm blades. Then, I put on the 325mm blades and it was a major improvement in handling and lowering the heat problem. My batteries are about a year old, they're pretty beat up and tired...many uses from them. Anyway...it looks for now like I stick with 325mm because it's like putting 315mm on a stock bird...just a major improvement.....I'll up date as it progresses and I find the sweet spot as well as add pics(still trying to figure out this camera).
03-06-2010 | 04:52 PM
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RE: HeliArtist 109 build
ORIGINAL: Oracus
Looks great Vic
Ill have to catch up and read all of the build later. Nice job
Looks great Vic
Ill have to catch up and read all of the build later. Nice job
03-28-2010 | 10:02 AM
#17
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RE: HeliArtist 109 build
Update:
I haven't been flying this at all. Even with two 2200mAh 20-c's in parallell, it too heavy, and using one 2200, it gets smoking HOT. I just got my 3000mAh 30c Turnigy battery in. That WORKS...nothing gets hot and it's got some guts/power. I need to try the 3000 outside to see how it works out. Tail authority is a little on the sluggish side, I'm thinking 500 sized tail blades, or 4 bladed tail rotor.
I haven't been flying this at all. Even with two 2200mAh 20-c's in parallell, it too heavy, and using one 2200, it gets smoking HOT. I just got my 3000mAh 30c Turnigy battery in. That WORKS...nothing gets hot and it's got some guts/power. I need to try the 3000 outside to see how it works out. Tail authority is a little on the sluggish side, I'm thinking 500 sized tail blades, or 4 bladed tail rotor.
