DOC

My Feedback: (57)

I got my Corsair about 3 weeks ago and started the build about 2 weeks ago.
I chose an Aerovate 26 gasser for power, Sierra Retracts, and Keleo Muffler.
Having built RC Warbirds for Too long, I knew to Keep everything forward of the CG.
At first I thought the build would be a piece of cake( never is ).
1. I put the engine in with 2.5 deg. rt thrust. and cut the carb recess (a 2.5") round hole using the template provided with the engine.
I used 1/64" ply, 1.5" deep and end capped with same Ply.
Use the onside of a rattle paint can cap to form the circle.

2. Build a platform over the engine, with support sides. This will hold the batteries and tail lightener(weight).
At this point i realized how little room inside I had to work with.[img][/img]

DOC

My Feedback: (57)

I realized I needed a shelf inside to hold 4 servos, a tank and the ignition system.
Since the Kit tank was too big, I opted for a 16 oz, Dubro. Since the carb was a pumper i could place it any where ?
Ended up raising the tank and replacing the shelf to accommodate 4 servos and kept it all forward of the CG.
I'm defining the CG as 4.24" behind the wing LE. The instructions are minimal and the numbers are wrong !
I'll talk about that later.[img][/img]

jddickers

My Feedback: (98)

DOC, Looks good so far. One thing you better make the ign, shelf longer, You are going to have to add a lot of nose weight. Most erery one has had to add at least 2lb. in the nose to balance. Good luck.
JD

DOC

My Feedback: (57)

That deck is as large as it can be. I have 2- 2000mah Nimh batteries and a 1lb block of Tungsten there.
I added a tail wheel retract that was 2 oz more in the tail, that equates to 5.5 oz needed up front to balance the tail wheel.

DOC

My Feedback: (57)

I am also adding a scale engine that attaches to the cowl.
[img][/img]

DOC

My Feedback: (57)

Also added a hatch to access the 2 switches, air system and an Led for the ignition power. The choke is servo operated from the servo mounted below the tank. it also turns on the ignition. 1 channel for both.
The Radio is a Futaba 9C with a 2.4ghz Frsky moduleand 8Ch receiver.
[img][/img]

DOC

My Feedback: (57)

[img][/img]Now working on interior kit and scale 7" engine. Engine is recessed back to the Aero 26 cylinder. Note the cowl weathering. This kit weathers very nicely and with a minimum effort.

ZERO-322

My Feedback: (2)

DOC she's looking really good ! what have you decided on for retracts ?

alanc

i made up on the lathe at work, a stainless steel prop nut,33mmdiam, by 40mm long, now, you cannot get the weight more forward than that, can you? engine does not even know its there it was surprising just how much ballast i could remove from further back with this weight

DOC

My Feedback: (57)

I chose Sierra retracts because of the complaints I saw here about the Gen 5's. They are heavier and more substancial, they are also forward of the CG. The tail mech is an old nose gear from Rhom Air that i had laying around. I searched for a long time trying to find a light TW retract, but nothing was lighter than the Rhom ! It did present a problem for steering. I glued a short length of 1/2" brass tube just above the pull- pull arm on the elev. Then used it as a pully to run forward to the tail wheel steering. then cross the cable to pull in the correct direction. I had to do this on my Skyraider,because it retracts forward. It works very well ! The TW doors will be added when the build is complete, and the CG is established.

SunnyFlyer09

Looking forward to see how she flys on a 26cc

DOC

My Feedback: (57)

One critical warning ! before you assemble the elevator: drill out the hole in the Pull-Pull arm to 1/16". It will then accept a clevis instead of the Loop in the wire, It will eventually fray. Remember if one line brakes the entire elevator stops working. I found this out when I tryed to add clevis's. TOO LATE...........!

DOC

My Feedback: (57)

This morning i was going to install the flaps. What a suprise when i opened the bags. These pictures speak for themselves !
Me thinks VQ has some splanin to do.........

alanc

OH DEAR, THIS IS NOT GOOD ENOUGH, BLOODY ARTFS, I WOULD SEND IT ALL BACK,

OR, just put them on in the right order, the big bit goes against the fuzz, the little bit goes where you have the big bit, AL FLAP PARTS ARE HANDED, make sure you get them right, all angles should meet up, no gaps, if there are gaps, they are still in the wrong order, O.K.?

by the way, just for starters, the big bit thats sticking up belongs against the wing root on the OTHER side, make sure you use the correct short piece next to it, you will know when its right, cos it will all look V nice, and lined up, i used robarts for the hinges, set into brass tube, and very nice they where too, bit of a sod to line up, but worth the effort, and, in case you are wondering, the engine goes at the front

DOC

My Feedback: (57)

Alan, Thanks for the hint. I did complete the puzzle successfully. The English sarcasm however is not appreciated. Perhaps you could rewrite what they refer to as instructions.
They are still a very poor fit. By the by I have provably been building and flying RC aircraft longer than you have been alive.

Thunderbolt47

My Feedback: (8)

Come on Doc, That was funny. We all have a blonde moment from time to time.

alanc

AH COME ON, did you not see the smileys? you boo booed, take it like a warbird flyer, if you send me air tickets, i will fly over, and buy you beer,

TBOLT47, ithankyow

AND DOC, i am 56, just so you know, and i am old school sticks and sheet guy, and, if you have not noticed, although you havnt said anything, i have tried to help, with the noseweight, and the flaps, i thought some past experiance with the kit woud help, BUT, if you dont want to, fine by me

spaul813

My Feedback: (44)

Okay. Question For everyone. I'm curious whether i have the skills to build this airplane. I built a hanger 9 150 size p 51. And a 150 size b 25 that were both ARFS. How much frustration will i have building this bird? I want to decide whether i should build it or sell it.

DOC

My Feedback: (57)

Alan, 56 years ago was close to the time I was transitioning from B-36's to B-52'S- But enough banter. So far I have enjoyed this model and I know its a good flyer. I'm sure the flap thing can be overcome ! So far with the flaps taped in place the model weight is 15.75 Lbs. and the CG is 4.75 inches. I will not fly until the cg is 4.25. I haven't calculated the necessary correction yet but I am planning on a 4 Oz Brass spinner. that should bring the CG very close.
I'm using an Electro Dynamics Duel batter ysystem and an ignition battery eliminator electronics.

alanc

my respects to you sir, if i can be of any assistance, just holler, and, if it makes you feel better, to check the wing out, i had to retrieve the corsair from deep winter storage,dueto a slight slip on the attic ladder,i have a gash on my leg about 3 inches long, but, at least its now on the bench, to get ready for summer flying HONEST, the things you do for our buyers

alanc

just thought i would mention a couple of mods of my own, being a belt and braces kind of guy, i decided to fit Kavan clevises to the elevator horn, and fit the pull pull system to them instead, i also made up some glass fibre hrons, with a dog leg on 8mm wide, 6mm deep, with 2 holes drilled in, this dog leg was glued into a slot i cut into all the control surfaces, and epoxyed in, nice, neat, and nothing showing on the top of the conrtol surface, i also did the rudder pull-pull, with an extra 2 wires to the tailwheel, nice thing about our birds, you dont have to stick to the book, you can do your own thing, out the box, it builds nice enougj, but i have my own time proven tweaks, that i have used long before these models where even thought of, hope this helps in some way, horns can be cut from computer PC board, i used 1/16thicj board, and cut it with an abrafile (tile cutter), does not take long to cut a full set,

LDM

My Feedback: (15)

Doc , just wondering why you added the nose weight before you were done with the plane ?

Also Alanc , do you have any pics of the mods you made ?

spaul813

My Feedback: (44)

I have to agree on the mods alanc...I'm a newbie (and a male to boot) show me some pictures!

DOC

My Feedback: (57)

LDM, To save weight ! I have built many warbirds and know they come out tail heavy. To properly Balance you will have to add weight. If you can put batteries and equipment in front they are what we call useful weight because they are necessary. Lead is called dead weight because it does nothing but add to the wing loading. Each Ounce added behind the CG must be added in front of the CG at an equal distance from the CG in order to balance the equation.

Alan, I'd like to see the pics also.

alanc

nothin much to see on the robart mod,      it just like any other corsair with flaps,   kinverlfyer did it, and took plenty of piccys, and i think they are on the main corsair thread, from eons ago,      but if doc emails me at [email protected], i can email him the horn shape, and if  he wishes, he can put them up here,     i just cannot get the damned things on here, sorry