Well I got a Nitro Jamin X1x CRT a few weeks back off ebay. It looked way better in the ad than it did in real life. The last owner decided to use liberal amounts of red-loctite on EVERYTHING, including the engine mounts, center diff, and other things. Nitro tank had a crack in it, I couldn't locate new engine mounts seeing he royally screwed those up, parts were missing, also I'm not sure if the spare engine I have laying around works (never been tested), and on top of it all my e-converted savages ESC was getting too hot too fast in the savage(1/8th MM is not a good esc in a savage), so I decided it was the perfect candidate for a e-conversion seeing it was the cheapest option.

Heres some pics of before I tore it down and cleaned it up. I swear all the clay and crap on this thing had to add almost a quarter pound to the shipping (there was clay all over everything)

FYI I'm actually almost done just doing this in multiple posts to break the pictures up

After cleaning it up (didn't take a pic of it clean) like I said earlier I found alot of screws were stripped due to the idiot red loctiting them in. I had to use a lighter to remove the center posts, and even that took awhile. Well after that I ordered a conversion bracket off monster RC for $50 http://www.rc-monster.com/proddetail.php?prod=RCMCRT1
That thing gave me a few issues, and had to be modified. One issue is it claims you can install it either way, this is a lie unless you use a Jammin X1x buggy center gear which is around 43 teeth (forgot exactly) vs the stock CRT's 63 tooth spur, or make a spacer. I ended up just slapping in a Jammin X1x CR's center gear I had laying around which I picked up for $4 a few months back (actually got a full diff set as a spare for my x1x for $4 )

Other issue is the radio plate. The thing does not fit without modifications. It actually has an issues which I do not understand how they missed. The main issue I had was actually mounting it cause the plate hits the center gear AND the center drive dogbone. To fix it I had to dremel about 2mm's up to thin the plate out where those 2 things are.
Also when the motors in the position I put it (again they claimed it could be) I had to also cut around 4mm's off the plate cause it was hitting the motor not allowing it to mesh.
I'll be honest I do not see how this would work with the stock spur gear period seeing its ALOT bigger. IMO it is some false advertising, and I'm not as happy with it as my CRT .5 Plate. But anyways I made it work with some effort but for the price it should have been flawless.

Theres a pic with it mounted along with the ESC and radio

Next was rims, wing (I hate the stock look), and battery boxes.

For battery boxes I decided to use stampede chassis's like in most of my conversions due to them being cheap ($7 vs $35 from monster and most other conversion sites), easy to work with, and durable.
I cut the front and rear off of them to leave only the box portion. On the one side I had to cut 2 notches cause the center differential is offset more to one side, and it was hitting the box. I also cut a slit in both sides of the box's so I can use a battery strap to hold the battery down. I was planning on going around the whole box but couldn't due to how the screws lined up on the bottom Ohh well whatever works.


The rims were a bit more interesting I had to find OFNA half offset rims. Glad I remembered my LHS had 1 set so I ran and got them. Unfortunately they were neon yellow...

Also the wing is a HPI Hell fire wing. Unfortunately my LHS was out of black...



No big deal that nothing was in a color I wanted it Rit dye to the rescue (actually did the dying this morning)

Which brings me to its current state. I'm still deciding on a scheme for the bodies paint.
Everything except the tires are mounted on the RC. So hopefully tomorrow I will be able to test it, which I'll try to record and post here.

In the mean time what do ya guys think. So far I'm happy with how it looks just hope its performance matches up

Ok took it out to test it out.
This thing has an INSANE amount of power on 4S. So much it actually broke 3 teeth off the hardened steel pinion gear I used in it.

Said I would take a video sorry for their quality, they were taken with the camera I used for the pics, and held in the hand I had my remote in.


[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1egTGCtZgxE[/youtube]


The crash actually knocked the one lipo's connector off, moved the pinion forward, knocked the motor loose, and knocked one of the wires out of the battery connector on the lipos side. Amazingly nothing broke. I am so sold on jammin's durability only other RC I own that could take a hit like this are my savages I've shattered more on 1/10th RC's hitting cracks in the sidewalk.



[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=expfmgBL9ew[/youtube]

I stopped recording after this cause I didn't want to crack it up again.

Now to find a stronger pinion... Going to have to try my Novak 14t hardened steel pinion on it

awesome write up. i will definetely be doing the same what i see here. what batteries are you running and what motor set up?

batteries are hobbyking 5200mah 2S 30C hard cases they fit the stampede trays perfectly that I use for battery box's
motor/esc is the CC MM 2200kv combo (actually bought the crt 1 for the ESC)

IMO the 2200 (from using it) is a tad too much for it. I never hit top speed on it in all honesty, and even at 70% throttle if I blip it the truggy will take off the ground and wheely or flip. Also my tires at around 60% throttle look like pizza cutters. If I was to buy another motor I'd probably get an 1850kv or something similar. This setup was originally in my savage which was 100% unusable with it, and it was getting too hot in the savage.

Hey SyCo Venom can I have your fuel tank?

Think I mighta chucked it seeing it was in pretty bad shape (like the rest of the roller) cause I haven't seen it for over half a year