mvvs 58 limited edition
Thanks in advance
Steve
Just use the short header. If you have good non-sagging power without 1/2 power "jump", your setup is ready. If throttle response is jumpy, or the power sags when the pipe gets hot, use the extra length.
Thanks again
Steve
Let the engine idle (1400-1600 rpm) for 5 minutes, then apply throttle smoothly but without hesitation (no throttle goosing please). The engine should accelerate without lagging, hickups or need to clear it's lungs. That is the measure of a properly tuned carb idle section. Further final adjustments to be done with the H needle.
It is running inverted the header lengh from piston face to plate in the ks1060 is 750mm long, i have programmed it for long pipe.
i have to have the bottom end to rich other wise it won't pick up, it all seems to point to the top end being to lean but it won't richen up any more. Am i doing something wrong.
Do not go leaner than factory settings. If that does not work well, check the fuel line right up to the carb for leaks. Also check the crankcase to carb pump pulse line for leaks.
I quote from the manual:
Carburetor adjustment:
adjusting needle ( H ) for high revolutions range 1 turn and 10 min
(the values are derived from the position of clock-hands)
The new engine comes adjusted to the basic setting. This setting
should be kept during running the engine in!
Thanks
Steve
Thanks again
Steve
My engine has developed another problem in that it has a misfire, it was running good then the prop came loose so I landed, when I retrieved the plane the prop was quite loose on the crankshaft but after a while I went to tighten it up but it had gone snug so I screwed the nut back on and tightened all nuts and bolts, I had another flight and all was ok. Now the next time I flew it (different day) I was in about 5-6 minutes of the flight when the engine went rich or so I thought in the mid range alright at top and bottom but anywhere in between very rich so I took the cowl off and tried to retune but to no avail now it's getting worse because the top is misfireing as well now. I can see that there's a woodruff key sticking out between hub and crankshaft housing locating the hub, is this normal as I don't recall seeing it before but then I never looked that close before.
Your thoughts/advice would be appreciated.
Steve
What prop do you run (size, wood or carbon) Still on Xoar 24x10 wood?
are the M5 bolts tight (not bottomed out) Torque to at least 3 Nm, check torques every day!
Is the central bolt nut snug (not too tight please or you will ruin the prop and prop drive)
The woodruff key should not be visible. Something may have happened when the prop was loose, or the central bolt has been overtightened.
Midrange misfiring also leads me to think you have a loose ignition power connection somewhere, that acts up due to vibration in certain ranges. The fact that it now spreads to full throttle supports that thought.
Take out the engine, and thoroughly check the prop drive and ignition leads. Also check your ignition switch and all leads. If in doubt, exchange.
Prop still the Xoar 24x10 (wood).
M5 bolts are not bottomed out though now i know the torque setting they will always be torqued.
Central bolt is more tight than snug, the only time i did it snug was when the nut came off in flight, heared it rattling around in the carbon spinner and land straight away.
Do you think i should take the hub off to check all is ok as i can clearly see part of the wooddruff key, though the gap between hub and crankcase is still the same, if so could you tell me the best way of getting the hub off.
I will check all igntion and battery connections and wires for damage/loose.
Thanks
Steve
My mistake. The LE engine does not have the steel insert in the prop drive, and you indeed can see the woodruff key between the crankcase and the prop drive.
If the ignition fires a few (5) degrees before top dead center, there is no need to remove the drive.
This leaves wiring to be checked, engine mount integrity and needle settings.
Are your plug caps pushed down all the way? They need a real hard push. When done well, the shielding does not gap. I tie-wrap the shields for extra insurance, especially the black earth wire has a hard time in there. (you did connect it to engine mass did you?)
Hi Pe,
The plug cap is pushed all the way down (on) and yes the earth is connected to one of the mounting bolts, I did zip tie (loosely) the sensor wire to another mounting bolt to stop it touching the crankcase.
I replaced the switch with a new one, checked all leads all seem to be fine, balanced charged the 2s 2200ma battery, started the motor all ok yeah.
Went out this morning put plane together fuelled up started no problem warm up fine I just tried full throttle one more time before letting model go and the misfire is back, I changed the plug for a new one (cm 6 gap correct) still the same misfire. The needle settings are in the same place when the engine was running well before. It seems that it might be heat related as when the engine is warming up all fine but as soon as it gets up to operating temperature the misfire is back.
Steve
Is the ignition kept cool? If the ignition works well on cold engine, it also should work well when the engine heats up.
Is your engine cooled well? Pictures please.
Lean the top end (H) needle to best rpm. Then turn the screw a hair (1/16 th turn) counterclockwise. This must be done with hot engine.
Hi Pe, <o></o>
<o></o>
sorry but I can’t seem to upload the photo's but there is good cooling (baffled with good exist) and the ignition has been in the same position all the time, it started misfiring in mid flight where the time before all ok.The needles were set ok before, though after I moved them the other day I did put them back to factory and had to richen top end about 5-10min (would not hold revs).
<o>hope this has worked</o>
Use standard needle setting systems.
First adjust idle to best rpm, and back off till rpm drop so you will have good transition. Then adjust H needle for best rpm and back off just slightly (no rpm drop). After that, fly and adjust as needed.
Uploading images is not difficult. You must have the images ready on your computer. It will not work on quick reply, but any of your own posts or quoted posts will work when edited. Then choose "upload more files"
Electronics like Ignitions that are kept in a hot space have a greatly reduced life span. So what was OK yesterday does not have to stay the same today. Be sure to get some cool air over the unit. (small chamber or similar)