Edge 540T 50cc opinions?
03-31-2009, 09:12 PM
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Edge 540T 50cc opinions?
well i bought the edge 540T 50cc last night, but i should do some searching on the engine, servos, and such. Anyone got any ideas for such a large plane?
03-31-2009, 11:53 PM
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RE: Edge 540T 50cc opinions?
It depends how much you want to spend on the engine?? I got this one and it rocks and I saved about 300 bucks. Servos and stuff like that are up to you. I know you want to atleast run a hitec 645 mg on the rudder. http://www.dlusa.net/
04-01-2009, 01:15 AM
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RE: Edge 540T 50cc opinions?
oh okay. thanks for the help. 
what are most popular brands of 50cc engines? this is my first gaser!
and you said 645mg servo for the rudder, but what about ailerons and elevator as well?
im running a 6 channel airtronics radio, with 8 channel reciever. is that okay for this you think?
what are most popular brands of 50cc engines? this is my first gaser!
and you said 645mg servo for the rudder, but what about ailerons and elevator as well?
im running a 6 channel airtronics radio, with 8 channel reciever. is that okay for this you think?
04-01-2009, 10:50 AM
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RE: Edge 540T 50cc opinions?
I put a ZDZ 50CC on mine.
As you can see it is an impeccably built plane and a real bargain.
I used cheap ( $19.00 ) hiTorque ( 130 oz/in) Metal gear servos all around.
I use the "GEAR" channel as my engine choke channel.
I have each aileron on a separate channel for flaperon and differential aileron controls when I want it.
I also have each servo on a separate channel as well, though the latter is not necessary.
As you can see it is an impeccably built plane and a real bargain.
I used cheap ( $19.00 ) hiTorque ( 130 oz/in) Metal gear servos all around.
I use the "GEAR" channel as my engine choke channel.
I have each aileron on a separate channel for flaperon and differential aileron controls when I want it.
I also have each servo on a separate channel as well, though the latter is not necessary.
04-01-2009, 10:55 AM
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RE: Edge 540T 50cc opinions?
Caveat:
The manual states that the C.G. can be put back to the third tick mark. DO NOT DO THIS!!! The plane will be too tail heavy.
Your C.G. should occur about 1/4 AHEAD of the first tick mark or MORE!
In the pictures above I had the battery packs in the back as you can see.
Subsequently I moved them all the way forward in the fuselage instead.
The manual states that the C.G. can be put back to the third tick mark. DO NOT DO THIS!!! The plane will be too tail heavy.
Your C.G. should occur about 1/4 AHEAD of the first tick mark or MORE!
In the pictures above I had the battery packs in the back as you can see.
Subsequently I moved them all the way forward in the fuselage instead.
04-01-2009, 03:47 PM
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RE: Edge 540T 50cc opinions?
wow! your Edge 540T looks well built and crafted. the way you set everything in the fuse is very well organized, and there is tons of room. i will do the search for the ZDZ 50cc engine. and does this plane have monokote wings, or are they balsa fully painted?
i appreciate your input as this will help me. especially if the book is telling me the CG is wrong!!!
i appreciate your input as this will help me. especially if the book is telling me the CG is wrong!!!
04-01-2009, 04:04 PM
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RE: Edge 540T 50cc opinions?
The wings are covered balsa as is the fuse.
Notice in the picture of the engine that there is spray paint on the fuselage.
It seems they did this along many of the seams, before applying the graphics to act to seal the edges.
It works.
On the second photo above you can see the three circular tick marks on the fuse just behind of the black wing tube cover.
I flew the plane with the C.G. just in front of the third tick mark and it was far too tail heavy. The nose would RISE whether the plane was upright or inverted at any speed above stall.
The first to second tick mark, will make the plane completely neutral but highly responsive.... which is why I recommend you fly the first flights with the C.G. in front of this.
It's a sweet flying plane.
-
There is also space for a single canister muffler on the plane and the firewall and supports come set up for it. You merely need to punch out the pre-drilled areas.
You can also see additional cooling ovals available next to the motor box above. I didn't see the need to open these up...
-
I made the "U" block the engine mounts to, to reduce the size of the standoffs required and to spread out torsional load on the firewall.
You also have to make your own RX tray and tank restraint as I did above, but this is trivial.
There are restraint holes for the battery packs where I have the batteries situated in the second picture, but you'll probably NOT want to use these so you can move the batteries forward.
Notice in the picture of the engine that there is spray paint on the fuselage.
It seems they did this along many of the seams, before applying the graphics to act to seal the edges.
It works.
On the second photo above you can see the three circular tick marks on the fuse just behind of the black wing tube cover.
I flew the plane with the C.G. just in front of the third tick mark and it was far too tail heavy. The nose would RISE whether the plane was upright or inverted at any speed above stall.
The first to second tick mark, will make the plane completely neutral but highly responsive.... which is why I recommend you fly the first flights with the C.G. in front of this.
It's a sweet flying plane.
-
There is also space for a single canister muffler on the plane and the firewall and supports come set up for it. You merely need to punch out the pre-drilled areas.
You can also see additional cooling ovals available next to the motor box above. I didn't see the need to open these up...
-
I made the "U" block the engine mounts to, to reduce the size of the standoffs required and to spread out torsional load on the firewall.
You also have to make your own RX tray and tank restraint as I did above, but this is trivial.
There are restraint holes for the battery packs where I have the batteries situated in the second picture, but you'll probably NOT want to use these so you can move the batteries forward.
04-02-2009, 01:11 AM
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RE: Edge 540T 50cc opinions?
wow thats a lot of useful information. im still kinda confused on where the tick marks are because this is my first scale model that has them. i always went by a measurement from the leading edge if the wing.
are the tick marks those small holes above the black wing tube? and you made the "U" block correct? or it comes pre-installed from factory?
im very paranoid about this plane, because its my first gaser, and its kinda an expensive model
thanks for all the help again. everything and anything is greatly appreciated
are the tick marks those small holes above the black wing tube? and you made the "U" block correct? or it comes pre-installed from factory?
im very paranoid about this plane, because its my first gaser, and its kinda an expensive model
thanks for all the help again. everything and anything is greatly appreciated
04-06-2009, 11:15 AM
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RE: Edge 540T 50cc opinions?
Yes the tick marks are the small holes you are referring to.
You want the plane to balance in front of the first set, preferably about 1/4" or more.
Yes I made the "U" block myself out of hardwood, and then covered it with an epoxy mix.
I prefer this to longer standoffs as it distributes torsional loads over a much bigger area, preventing damage to the support structure.
I've seen guys put very long standoffs on their planes. They do not realize that these long standoffs act as levers with long arms, putting a good bit of strain on the area where they contact the wood. The U block provides a larger contact surface reducing the per-cubic inch loading.
Put a good bit of Expo on your TX with this plane, say about 50,50, 25% for ailerons, elevator & rudder respectively. ( Negative for Futaba, Positive for JR ).
You'll find that the plane flies almost level hands off inverted once it is trimmed out. It is a very sweet flyer.
BTW: I crashed my first one when the engine died just after takeoff one time. I held too much back elevator, and the tail pancaked in HARD, cracking the fuse off about 1/4 the way behind the canopy. While I don't expect to do this again, I threw in a few CF tubes running along the long the fuselage formers.
I just cut them to size and epoxied them in place.... cheap insurance.
Amazingly that and a completely demolished prop was the only damage.
You want the plane to balance in front of the first set, preferably about 1/4" or more.
Yes I made the "U" block myself out of hardwood, and then covered it with an epoxy mix.
I prefer this to longer standoffs as it distributes torsional loads over a much bigger area, preventing damage to the support structure.
I've seen guys put very long standoffs on their planes. They do not realize that these long standoffs act as levers with long arms, putting a good bit of strain on the area where they contact the wood. The U block provides a larger contact surface reducing the per-cubic inch loading.
Put a good bit of Expo on your TX with this plane, say about 50,50, 25% for ailerons, elevator & rudder respectively. ( Negative for Futaba, Positive for JR ).
You'll find that the plane flies almost level hands off inverted once it is trimmed out. It is a very sweet flyer.
BTW: I crashed my first one when the engine died just after takeoff one time. I held too much back elevator, and the tail pancaked in HARD, cracking the fuse off about 1/4 the way behind the canopy. While I don't expect to do this again, I threw in a few CF tubes running along the long the fuselage formers.
I just cut them to size and epoxied them in place.... cheap insurance.
Amazingly that and a completely demolished prop was the only damage.
04-06-2009, 03:47 PM
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RE: Edge 540T 50cc opinions?
oh sweet information.
anything works for me.
now i just have to figure out what kind of servos to use, and finish reading my 8ch cpm transmitter manual.
everything looks very well made.
AND, did you use the wire for tail fin/ horizontal stabilizer?
and i noticed the booklet says for example 180mm, or 130mm for the rudder/ elevator linkages. these however are way too long to fit.
anything works for me.
now i just have to figure out what kind of servos to use, and finish reading my 8ch cpm transmitter manual.
everything looks very well made.
AND, did you use the wire for tail fin/ horizontal stabilizer?
and i noticed the booklet says for example 180mm, or 130mm for the rudder/ elevator linkages. these however are way too long to fit.
04-06-2009, 04:04 PM
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RE: Edge 540T 50cc opinions?
I used cheap 130oz/in Hextronix servos ( about 9.00 ) each, which worked just fine. These are the 5010's which NP sells.
When I rebuilt the plane I put in a metal gear servo for the rudder which was about $14.00 and also around 160oz/in.
I went ahead and used the provided stiffening tail wires, though some have flown the plane without it.
I tend to re-inforce the tail with CF rods on many of my planes, so I went with the wires on this one.
Re: Linkages
I'll have to look at the manual. I don't offhand remember what you are talking about.
When I rebuilt the plane I put in a metal gear servo for the rudder which was about $14.00 and also around 160oz/in.
I went ahead and used the provided stiffening tail wires, though some have flown the plane without it.
I tend to re-inforce the tail with CF rods on many of my planes, so I went with the wires on this one.
Re: Linkages
I'll have to look at the manual. I don't offhand remember what you are talking about.
04-06-2009, 04:35 PM
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RE: Edge 540T 50cc opinions?
okay
because i am always getting confused about the numbers with servos. such as if higher the numbers are better or?
and the manual says for example, Rudder: 2x 130mm rod, Elevator: 2x 280mm rod, and Ailerons: 2x 180mm rod.
However when i measured them to the airplane, they seem way to long, and will have too much extra rod sticking out of the linkage stopper.
because i am always getting confused about the numbers with servos. such as if higher the numbers are better or?
and the manual says for example, Rudder: 2x 130mm rod, Elevator: 2x 280mm rod, and Ailerons: 2x 180mm rod.
However when i measured them to the airplane, they seem way to long, and will have too much extra rod sticking out of the linkage stopper.
04-06-2009, 04:46 PM
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RE: Edge 540T 50cc opinions?
Re: Servos
Typical Standard Servos produce about 30-40oz/in of torque. That means they can hold 2lbs or so on a 1 inch arm without giving way...
The high torque servos I used produce about 130oz/in of torque which I find more than adecuate for this 50cc plane.
I've seen people put much higher torque servos on 50cc gassers as well, but this may be a huge overkill.
Re: Lengths.
Those lengths are NOT how long you LEAVE the rods. Rather they are used to help you identifify which rod is used where.
For instance, when you are looking for the rudder rods, take and measure the included rods until you find one of the 130mm rods. These will be for the rudder... etc.
You then can cut them to the desired size, etc.
Usually the provided rods are purposely overly long so you can do with them as you wish. Some people may put in Z bends, etc. which will require a longer rod, etc.
Typical Standard Servos produce about 30-40oz/in of torque. That means they can hold 2lbs or so on a 1 inch arm without giving way...
The high torque servos I used produce about 130oz/in of torque which I find more than adecuate for this 50cc plane.
I've seen people put much higher torque servos on 50cc gassers as well, but this may be a huge overkill.
Re: Lengths.
Those lengths are NOT how long you LEAVE the rods. Rather they are used to help you identifify which rod is used where.
For instance, when you are looking for the rudder rods, take and measure the included rods until you find one of the 130mm rods. These will be for the rudder... etc.
You then can cut them to the desired size, etc.
Usually the provided rods are purposely overly long so you can do with them as you wish. Some people may put in Z bends, etc. which will require a longer rod, etc.
04-06-2009, 05:26 PM
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RE: Edge 540T 50cc opinions?
Here is an engine for ya to check into. This brand is becoming real popular, just check out the RCGF thread in gas engines.
[link]http://www.zrcgf.com/store/Details.cfm?ProdID=33&category=2[/link]
[link]http://www.zrcgf.com/store/Details.cfm?ProdID=33&category=2[/link]
