BRUSHLESS A-10
 

I ordered the brushless A-10. When I received it one of the motors doesnt work properly. How do I get it replaced? I tried to use the online chat, but is un available?

RE: BRUSHLESS A-10
 

What happens with the motor?

RE: BRUSHLESS A-10
 

it only kicks on around half throttle, then pushes about half the air the other one does.

RE: BRUSHLESS A-10
 

I had exactly the same problem at first.

I disconnected one ESC, turned on the plane then did a throttle range calibration, turned off the plane, plugged the other ESC in and did the same thing.

It may have taken a couple of tries or so, but afterwards both ESC's ran fine.

I MAY have also played with the ESC programming a bit too. I think I reset both of them to their defaults first.

RE: BRUSHLESS A-10
 

Can you describe that in newbie talk?

What is an ESC?

How do you do a throttle range calibration?

How do you play with the ESCprograming?

Then, How do you reset the ESC?

Thanks for the help!!!

My son would be extremely happy if we could get this together today. It is his birthday gift.

RE: BRUSHLESS A-10
 

ESC = Electronic Speed Controller

This the thing that on one side connects to the three wires coming from the motor, and on the other has a thin wire connector to the receiver, and a big thick wire connector to the battery pack.

You also need to know about BEC's

BEC = Battery Eliminator Circuits ( not to be confused with UBEC's! ).

A BEC is used to power your low voltage electronics in an RC airplane.

The BEC supplies power to the RECIEVER and SERVOS, but not to the motor directly.

On lower power planes ( less than 35A or so current draw ) the BEC is normally built into the ESC's.

On the A-10 one BEC must be disabled and the other must remain on... this should be how your plane came configured. You may see a disconnected red wire on one of the ESC connectors... that is what is disabling the extra BEC...


You turn on the Transmitter ( TX ) move the throttle stick to mid throttle with the throttle trim in the middle, then turn on the plane.
After the first beep, move the throttle all the way up, then all the way down and immediately move the throttle trim all the way down.

This "teaches" the ESC the range of the throttle signal from the radio.

You need to do this with EACH ESC separately to get the motors in sync...

It depends upon the ESC itself and how the manufacturer set it up for programming.

Each ESC from a company has specific programming instructions and features.

Unfortunately most are written in incomprehensible english.

So even if you have the programming guide ( it's a single sheet page ... ) you really need to have someone experienced with ESC's and electric RC stuff do it for you while you watch and learn.

RE: BRUSHLESS A-10
 

Thanks, I will print this out and try it tonight.

RE: BRUSHLESS A-10
 

The throttle range calibration worked, thanks!

Now I just need to collect the missing parts  ;)

RE: BRUSHLESS A-10
 

Great.

Now take a bit of time to "break in" the EDF's if you have not already done so.

Run them up to about 50% and let them spin that way for about 30 seconds.

Then shut off the plane and check the fan shrouds.

Look for any points the fan blades have worn the plastic shrouds.

If you see some, use a bit of sandpaper between the blades and the shrouds and turn the blades against the sandpaper to remove a bit of plastic.

Remove the plastic flashing you pull up.

Then put a drop of oil on the shroud and use it to LIGHTLY coat the inside of the shroud.

Wipe excess up with a rag... you are using the oild to hide the already scored areas and to reveal other contact points.

Now run up the motor to 100% for about 10-15 seconds.

Look again for any scoring. New scoring will appear light.

Give it similiar attention, and repeat until no new scoring appears.

Recharge the battery and you'll be ready to fly.

I suggest setting your timer for 3 minutes on your first flight, then recharging the battery with a decent computer controlled charger that reports how much energy has been put back into the battery.

For instance: If the charger says it put back 500mA and it's a 1600mAh pack, you can assume that you'll get 9 minute flights... as you cannot really discharge the battery fully.

Take that number and subtract another 20% for safety and you'll know how to set your flight timer... approx 6 minutes in this case.

RE: BRUSHLESS A-10
 

I have not broke them in. I didnt know I was supposed to. I will follow these procedures though.

Why shouldnt the battery be fully discharged?

The only charger I have is the one supplied with the plane.

I still have some time to wait to fly, because their were some pieces missing in the kit. The front landing gear was missing the wheel support and the aleron servo was missing the plastic piece that the control rods connect to the servo with. Not sure of the correct terminology?

RE: BRUSHLESS A-10
 

The fan blades expand due to the relatively high RPM's and centrifugal forces.

This causes them to rub against the shroud, which in turn heats up the motor, potentially causing a motor failure, breaking the blades, or burning out the ESC... This is why it is important to do.

LiPo's must NEVER EVER be fully discharged. Dropping their voltage/capacity below a certain level ruins them, changing their chemistry permanently.

Most ESC's feature an LVC ( Low Voltage Cutoff ) circuit which attempts to stop the motor in flight if the battery level drops too low.

Once the LVC kicks in the motor will shut off, but there will still be current supplied to the electronics to let you continue to control the now engineless plane.

ESC's can also be programmed to more gently lower the motor power instead of a full cut of the motor. However most people miss the event, so it is MUCH better to have the ESC cut the motor altogether.

Once the LVC cuts in, bring the throttle all the way down and try to perform a deadstick landing.

If you find you are short, you can run up the throttle for a second, and the motors will kick in again BRIEFLY to supply a bit of thrust to help you land.