RCU Forums - After Run Oil

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- O.S. Engines Support (https://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/o-s-engines-support-133/)

- - After Run Oil (https://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/o-s-engines-support-133/205178-after-run-oil.html)

After-run oil in any model engine will help preserve its life. When O.S. states to not put any oil in the carburetor, we take it to mean that it should not be run through the fuel inlet. It's OK to add oil through the venturi of the carb.

Open the throttle to full, squirt the oil in, and turn the engine over several times to work it in.

Please remember that with many engines, a few drops is as useful as using no oil at all. We use healthy squirts to really flood the engine. We also hold the model nose down to make sure the oil gets to the bearings.

A lot of after-run oil may make the engine a bit harder to start the first time at your next flying session, but protection is worth it.

You can use any of the commercial after-run products on the market, or almost any kind of good-quality coating oil. Machine tool oil, non-graphite gun oil, air tool oils, even automatic transmission fluid are all good.

Light oils, such as "3-N-1" are OK if you're using your engine in the next 1-2 days, but it's too light for longer terms.

Don't use products such as "WD-40" or "Liquid Wrench" because they will loosen any rust on the steel parts. The rust will travel throughout the engine and erode the clearances. Iron oxide is a dandy abrasive. Of course, if you use those products from the day you purchase your engine, you'll be OK. Just don't use them if there's any corrosion buildup at all.

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Dear Mr. Baxter,
I liked yr recommendations about after run oil. I have stopped flying my J3 Cub w/ an FS 90 for an unfortunate reason 5 years ago . Before I hang up the model I did squirt after run in it and crancked for several times. Untill I hang it up it was running perfectly, always started with only one kick back.

I have recently decided to go back to R/C world again and first took my model out of the garage, tried to torn the cranck but could not succeeded. Seems like it's locked.

Do you have any recommendation, do I have to dismantle it or just dip in a recommended liquid, or methanol or what..

Thank you very much for yr advise and very best regards

Feyzan Erel

Though most people blame the methanol for attracting moisture I suspect that condensation is the major reason for water in the crankcase. Reason is that I have removed the backplate from engines right after running, even when not run dry much of the fuel had evaporated prior to removing the backplate. Without the methanol even the oil in our fuel will not dissolve with water, the water sinks to the bottom of the crankcase, if the engine is pointed up the water will stay on the backplate without much corrosion, if the plane is pointed down the water will go toward the bearings causing them to rust.

Just an observation that many people who have problems with rust store there planes or engines with the front pointing down.

Thanks for the clarification!

I've only been using a few drops as instructed by the owner's manual of one of my engines. I'll start using more!

I posted a question about this on 7/3 in this forum but never got a reply.

Quote:

Originally posted by Sport_Pilot
Though most people blame the methanol for attracting moisture I suspect that condensation is the major reason for water in the crankcase. Reason is that I have removed the backplate from engines right after running, even when not run dry much of the fuel had evaporated prior to removing the backplate. Without the methanol even the oil in our fuel will not dissolve with water, the water sinks to the bottom of the crankcase, if the engine is pointed up the water will stay on the backplate without much corrosion, if the plane is pointed down the water will go toward the bearings causing them to rust.

Just an observation that many people who have problems with rust store there planes or engines with the front pointing down.

Perhaps this may answer the question I was just about posting: I have an OS 46FX-H heli engine wihich has not run for about 1½ years, and when I attempted to start it this year it couldn't be turned around. When I opened it there was rust on the rear ball bearing and on the piston ring and pin/clips. At first I thought it was the fuel - 20% moltsyne (sp?) synthetic oil and 12% nitro.

I did store the engine with the front pointing up (as it is mounted in the helicopter).

Is it possible to sand away the rust on the cylinder (there isn't THAT much) or do I have to buy a new engine? :(