unloco2

re NiCd versus NiMm versus LiPo. I believe the original model came with NiMh technology, but the basic issue is that NiCd have a lower internal resistance which allow higher drain currents for the same voltage. The main advantages of NiMh was less weight, and no discharge memory. For any given battery count and voltage, the NiCd would provide higher current ergo more available juice for the motor. In terms of LiPo, the advantages are lower weight, and for equal voltage, low internal resistance and in most cases, longer flight times. The main disadvantage to LiPos, is the inflexabilty re voltage selection, ie: 4.2, 8.4, 12.6, stc. and the inherent problems relative to discharge voltage. I like LiPos. I am using them almost exclusively, and have had no problems using the 3 cell units with the original SD motors. The damage to the motors is not so much the voltage but the heat generated by running the motors full out. I have found that after take-off, I always reduce the throttle for general flying. I also have cut in more air draft for the motors, which help to remove the high temp from the motors.

Leo L

Another brushed motor you can try with the LiPo is the replacement Speed370 for the E-flite CX heli. The motor is an exact match in size to the original SD motor, including the mounting holes, but is wound to handle a 3-cell LiPo.

My own preference was to switch to brushless. I decided to use my Typhoon Tx, so I bought a replacement Typhoon Rx and 2 Typhoon replacement servos. I installed a TowerPro outrunner, a cheap ESC that came in a deal wioth the motor on e-bay, and a 3-cell 800mah LiPo that fits the battery compartment like it was made for it. The plane will take off at 1/2 throttle and cruises at 1/3 throttle.

unloco2

Sounds like you found one of my favorite sellers, heads up rc. I have some of their brushless motors and ESC's, and they work well. One of the motors is in an old Carl Goldberg Mirage, circa 1990. I am using a 3 cell lipo in my SD and have had no problem with the original motor. I did change the radio gear because of problems with the original radio and a subsequent replacement from ParkZone. I am using a radio from FlyZone, from an old plane that died, and it works like a charm. It's possible that using LiPos with the original receiver could cause a problem although a couple of fellow fliers are flying a J3 cub with the original everything except for the 3 cell LiPos, and haven't experienced any problems, so far.

reaperofsoulz

I got everything figured out with the Fireball motor and the wiring, i extended the wires from rx to motor using a premade wire setup with different size wires and it seems that was a problem (maybe resitence?). So I fixed that and all was working good, i even added a micro steerable wheel to the rudder > http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXMRK6&P=M worked like a champ. I tryed to stick with my stock nicd battery but it wasn't fully charged due to motor testing. It was just enough to steer the plane around, it wouldnt take off. So my only choice when out in the field with a newly fixed plane was to go lipo WOW..this venom motor is powerful, I hit full throttle and the plane leaped into the air from where it was sitting. Shortly after takeoff I think the simple velcro battery setup i made (since i wasnt planning to run this battery) came loose and she was flopping around in the air like a fish. I noticed right away and went for an emergency landing but the slightest turn suddenly became a big turn when the battery flopped to that side of the plane and she had her first crash of the day, loosing my new micro wheel [&o] to shorten the story she went up again but again shortly came down hard with sudden power loss. Field test revealed my new venom was dead but bench tests at home show a capasitor that became unsoldered so im hoping that is the problem.

ferglaw

Anyone know the balance point on the ParkZone Super Decathlon? I changed motor and battery and radio equipment.