F27 STRYKER, WAY PAST THE LIMITS! PART 4...
#1251
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RE: F27 STRYKER, WAY PAST THE LIMITS! PART 4...
Well here are some very rough amp/prop figures for you bonefisher,and maybe Catfish? think I promised these ages ago but didn't deliver,sorry.
First up,tests were conducted in a very rough fashion after nightshift,no responsibility etc.
Bonefish my 3000kv motor is smaller than yours I think,so take as a guide only.
Specification:
â—2 pole brushless motor
â—Input voltage: DC7.4~14.8v
â—KV value: 3000KV
â—Dimension: spindle 2.3x20.1x40.2mm
â—Weight: 61g (prox
Prop:5x5 APC I think,on 3S it drew @22 amps,on 4S @35 amps,both batteries 2100mah 20C.
My prop adaptor was slipping a bit at this stage,as I accidently stripped the set screw,so the amp figures may be a tad conservative.
5.2x5.2(Graupner) was 25 and 40 amps as above,I tried the 5.5x4.5,but she started chewing my aelirons,not enough room on the slinger for any bigger prop,and it actually came off,luckily missing my freshly opened beer.
Righto onto the Stryker,different motor,the classic align 400L 2500kv.(the 3000kv is stuck in the slinger at the moment)
First up the old faithful APC 6x4 with a new prop adaptor recorded a conservative 24 amps.I am sure this figure is low,as I remember pulling 27/28 with the same prop,the battery may have been a bit low,and the mega 16/15/4 pulls around 22/23 @ 2200 kv, so perhaps discard this result.
On 4S the 6x4 pulled a stonking 40 amps,screamed like a mad thing and scared the neighbours cat.Only for the brave at WOT.
I tried a Robbe 6x4 which appears a much less aggressive prop,the results confirmed it with a 20 and 34 amp figure,but a lot quieter for the twitchy cat next door.
Next up was an APC 5.5x4.5,which seemed to be a fairly sweet balance.23 and also a screaming 40 amps or so on 4S....Lotsa thrust.
After a short break to talk to neighbour,I went with the APC 5.7x3,18.5 and 32 amps...nice middle of the road prop.
Last of all,the 5x5,APC as well I think..20 and 36 amps.
Not a huge difference all up in amp draw,but you can hear and feel the difference with different props.
The 6x4 on 4S is ballistic,as is the 5.5x4.5,the 5x5 also seems to be a good option.All are drawing reasonably high amps on the 2500kv motor.
Looking at the 3000kv motor results makes me think that the prop may have been slipping a bit,by rights,they should have been higher than they were.
Both motors got fairly warm,but it is fairly cold here at the moment.If they were in a cowl,I think you would have to be a bit careful.I started with a Phoenix 25 on the testbed,but it started stuttering and farting at the abuse I was giving it,so I replaced it with the old faithful towerpro 60 amp.Nothing wrong with the Phoenix,it was protecting itself.
Conclusions for you bonefisher are a bit hard to draw,you really need to test your own motor....you really need an ampmeter if you want to push your motors and lipos.
My advice is stay with a 5 inch prop with as much pitch as you can get away with,but I think your gonna have to test em.Not all props are the same,some are markedly different for nominally the same pitch.
Sorry cant be any more definate,but think I am going to have a little time with the 5.5x4.5 and 5x5 on 4S...more volts more good.
Cheers,
Bleary.
Edit: from memory I have a 7x4 or 7x5 on the mega 16/15/4 in the Picojet.Think it was pulling low 30's on 3S.Will try to give it a test in the morning to check amps...nothing has smoked yet,but things are getting very warm/hot.
[8D]
maybe time to parallel a coupla packs...love the 400 size screamers though...power vs weight is outstanding...
Cheers,
Melting
First up,tests were conducted in a very rough fashion after nightshift,no responsibility etc.
Bonefish my 3000kv motor is smaller than yours I think,so take as a guide only.
Specification:
â—2 pole brushless motor
â—Input voltage: DC7.4~14.8v
â—KV value: 3000KV
â—Dimension: spindle 2.3x20.1x40.2mm
â—Weight: 61g (prox
Prop:5x5 APC I think,on 3S it drew @22 amps,on 4S @35 amps,both batteries 2100mah 20C.
My prop adaptor was slipping a bit at this stage,as I accidently stripped the set screw,so the amp figures may be a tad conservative.
5.2x5.2(Graupner) was 25 and 40 amps as above,I tried the 5.5x4.5,but she started chewing my aelirons,not enough room on the slinger for any bigger prop,and it actually came off,luckily missing my freshly opened beer.
Righto onto the Stryker,different motor,the classic align 400L 2500kv.(the 3000kv is stuck in the slinger at the moment)
First up the old faithful APC 6x4 with a new prop adaptor recorded a conservative 24 amps.I am sure this figure is low,as I remember pulling 27/28 with the same prop,the battery may have been a bit low,and the mega 16/15/4 pulls around 22/23 @ 2200 kv, so perhaps discard this result.
On 4S the 6x4 pulled a stonking 40 amps,screamed like a mad thing and scared the neighbours cat.Only for the brave at WOT.
I tried a Robbe 6x4 which appears a much less aggressive prop,the results confirmed it with a 20 and 34 amp figure,but a lot quieter for the twitchy cat next door.
Next up was an APC 5.5x4.5,which seemed to be a fairly sweet balance.23 and also a screaming 40 amps or so on 4S....Lotsa thrust.
After a short break to talk to neighbour,I went with the APC 5.7x3,18.5 and 32 amps...nice middle of the road prop.
Last of all,the 5x5,APC as well I think..20 and 36 amps.
Not a huge difference all up in amp draw,but you can hear and feel the difference with different props.
The 6x4 on 4S is ballistic,as is the 5.5x4.5,the 5x5 also seems to be a good option.All are drawing reasonably high amps on the 2500kv motor.
Looking at the 3000kv motor results makes me think that the prop may have been slipping a bit,by rights,they should have been higher than they were.
Both motors got fairly warm,but it is fairly cold here at the moment.If they were in a cowl,I think you would have to be a bit careful.I started with a Phoenix 25 on the testbed,but it started stuttering and farting at the abuse I was giving it,so I replaced it with the old faithful towerpro 60 amp.Nothing wrong with the Phoenix,it was protecting itself.
Conclusions for you bonefisher are a bit hard to draw,you really need to test your own motor....you really need an ampmeter if you want to push your motors and lipos.
My advice is stay with a 5 inch prop with as much pitch as you can get away with,but I think your gonna have to test em.Not all props are the same,some are markedly different for nominally the same pitch.
Sorry cant be any more definate,but think I am going to have a little time with the 5.5x4.5 and 5x5 on 4S...more volts more good.
Cheers,
Bleary.
Edit: from memory I have a 7x4 or 7x5 on the mega 16/15/4 in the Picojet.Think it was pulling low 30's on 3S.Will try to give it a test in the morning to check amps...nothing has smoked yet,but things are getting very warm/hot.
[8D]
maybe time to parallel a coupla packs...love the 400 size screamers though...power vs weight is outstanding...
Cheers,
Melting
#1252
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RE: F27 STRYKER, WAY PAST THE LIMITS! PART 4...
What have people done for nose cones? I know you need a better nose for 120+ mph, but I don't intend to go that fast...yet.
#1253
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RE: F27 STRYKER, WAY PAST THE LIMITS! PART 4...
ORIGINAL: flyingace451
What have people done for nose cones? I know you need a better nose for 120+ mph, but I don't intend to go that fast...yet.
What have people done for nose cones? I know you need a better nose for 120+ mph, but I don't intend to go that fast...yet.
ORIGINAL: MR_TBONE
Seen guys make them out of nerf football foam. Makes a bouncy nose!
I also, long ago when I still often destroyed noses, I dipped a nose in Plasti-Dip for tool handles (bought at most hardware stores). This nose was virtually industructable!
Seen guys make them out of nerf football foam. Makes a bouncy nose!
I also, long ago when I still often destroyed noses, I dipped a nose in Plasti-Dip for tool handles (bought at most hardware stores). This nose was virtually industructable!
http://image.rcuniverse.com/forum/up...86/Fd90664.jpg
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RE: F27 STRYKER, WAY PAST THE LIMITS! PART 4...
Hey all,
OK now I'm caught up with the latest posting. Lots of reading as I got behind.
I am on my way to a brushless stryker. I have all new parts as my last stock had a run with my depth perception (hit a soccer goal). I am just waiting on my new brushless motor and new Lipos.
I want to glass this one and was wondering what people use to brush on the fiber glass. Also is ti necessary to reinforce the bird with CF tubes?
Thanks for the help
Viper
OK now I'm caught up with the latest posting. Lots of reading as I got behind.
I am on my way to a brushless stryker. I have all new parts as my last stock had a run with my depth perception (hit a soccer goal). I am just waiting on my new brushless motor and new Lipos.
I want to glass this one and was wondering what people use to brush on the fiber glass. Also is ti necessary to reinforce the bird with CF tubes?
Thanks for the help
Viper
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RE: F27 STRYKER, WAY PAST THE LIMITS! PART 4...
I don't think fiberglass is really necessary unless you are going to reshape the airfoil. Carbon reinforcement should be enough. I do recommend carbon rods along the top of the wing, all the way to the tip, and along the midline, from the back at least 5 inches in front of the motor mount. Sone lateral carbon strips at the motor mount would be good, too.
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RE: F27 STRYKER, WAY PAST THE LIMITS! PART 4...
Ok I think thats what I will do. I already bought the Fiber glass cloth as I was planning on doing this. I guess I will save it for another use.
I am still waiting on my BP21 and Lipos to come in and getting anxious.
I am still waiting on my BP21 and Lipos to come in and getting anxious.
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RE: F27 STRYKER, WAY PAST THE LIMITS! PART 4...
Hello everyone....new guy here. I'm new to flying and I've been reading info on this thread. Great stuff but "WOW"....lots of information....especially for someone like me who doesn't have a clue as to what I'm doing. Got a Stryker as a starter plane...my first mistake. I've crashed it several times trying to get it airborne. I snapped the motor housing unit so I'm down for maintenance at the moment. I've downloaded the trainer sim and the stryker plane for it to practice on while I wait for parts. I've also ordered a more practical 2 channel trainer aircraft to see if that will help me get the hang of this flying thing. One thing I wanted to know is what is needed right out of the box to get the stryker airborne (besides the basics: battery charging, minor assembly, open field...etc). I believe my hand tosses are to light so I guess I'll have to put some "umph" behind it. Anyway, I'm rambling because I have no idea of what I'm doing. Thanks for the great info and I'll be firing questions off soon.
DeMac
p.s. I've ordered a new motor so I will get that broken in with that water/battery technique. I'm staying strictly stock for now until I figure out what I'm doing. And if you can't already tell...yes, I am very lost.
DeMac
p.s. I've ordered a new motor so I will get that broken in with that water/battery technique. I'm staying strictly stock for now until I figure out what I'm doing. And if you can't already tell...yes, I am very lost.
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RE: F27 STRYKER, WAY PAST THE LIMITS! PART 4...
So I've finally found a bare fuse/parts to add my own gear in. I don't think I have the attention span to read 1255 posts to see what most are using. So, what BL motor/esc/lipo combo is good. I don't want an absolute balltearer just yet, but something that will impress a few of the petrolheads here and will be a stepping stone to faster stuff..
Thanks
Clovus
Thanks
Clovus
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RE: F27 STRYKER, WAY PAST THE LIMITS! PART 4...
quote:
ORIGINAL: flyingace451
What have people done for nose cones? I know you need a better nose for 120+ mph, but I don't intend to go that fast...yet.
You already asked this question, and there were two answers.
quote:
ORIGINAL: MR_TBONE
Seen guys make them out of nerf football foam. Makes a bouncy nose!
I also, long ago when I still often destroyed noses, I dipped a nose in Plasti-Dip for tool handles (bought at most hardware stores). This nose was virtually industructable!
And I posted a picture of mine:
http://image.rcuniverse.com/forum/up...86/Fd90664.jpg
ORIGINAL: flyingace451
What have people done for nose cones? I know you need a better nose for 120+ mph, but I don't intend to go that fast...yet.
You already asked this question, and there were two answers.
quote:
ORIGINAL: MR_TBONE
Seen guys make them out of nerf football foam. Makes a bouncy nose!
I also, long ago when I still often destroyed noses, I dipped a nose in Plasti-Dip for tool handles (bought at most hardware stores). This nose was virtually industructable!
And I posted a picture of mine:
http://image.rcuniverse.com/forum/up...86/Fd90664.jpg
#1260
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RE: F27 STRYKER, WAY PAST THE LIMITS! PART 4...
Clovus,for a nice middle of the road setup,look for a 3S lipo of around 2100mah,able to handle at least 15C.You may not need all of it now,but you may want it in the future.
At least a 30 amp esc.I have used various brands,but like the Jeti 30amp,or if you are on a budget like many of us the 60 amp Towerpro off ebay is a bargain.It's a bit heavier,but handles the amps no drama.(dunno about 60,I never had it that high,but mid 40s no worries)
For a motor,you have many choices.You are going direct drive with about a 6 inch prop,so look for a kv of between 2000 and 3000,and an ability to handle about 25 amps.
The Mega 16/15/4 is nice,Align 400L also,others are using all sorts.
An ammeter is the best thing you can buy,takes the guesswork out of the equation,so you can play with different props to find the best setup.
Cheers,
Bleary.
At least a 30 amp esc.I have used various brands,but like the Jeti 30amp,or if you are on a budget like many of us the 60 amp Towerpro off ebay is a bargain.It's a bit heavier,but handles the amps no drama.(dunno about 60,I never had it that high,but mid 40s no worries)
For a motor,you have many choices.You are going direct drive with about a 6 inch prop,so look for a kv of between 2000 and 3000,and an ability to handle about 25 amps.
The Mega 16/15/4 is nice,Align 400L also,others are using all sorts.
An ammeter is the best thing you can buy,takes the guesswork out of the equation,so you can play with different props to find the best setup.
Cheers,
Bleary.
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RE: F27 STRYKER, WAY PAST THE LIMITS! PART 4...
Clovus,
Read the last few pages of this thread, lots of info on BP-21 or 2409-12T motors from www.aero-nuts.com or other sources.
Get a combo deal with 30A ESC + one of those motors for about USD 45, shipping included.
Also check the blue resource box at the top and bottom of all pages in this thread.
Hagar
Read the last few pages of this thread, lots of info on BP-21 or 2409-12T motors from www.aero-nuts.com or other sources.
Get a combo deal with 30A ESC + one of those motors for about USD 45, shipping included.
Also check the blue resource box at the top and bottom of all pages in this thread.
Hagar
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RE: F27 STRYKER, WAY PAST THE LIMITS! PART 4...
Thanks for the reply Hagar,
I remembered somewhere else GG said to look in the resource box after I posted my message. D'Oh.
How did you find delivery for aero-nuts? I'm just a bit wary of international orders over the internet. I can get AXI BL here from my LHS but they don't fly strykers. I'm off to china in a coupla hours but was hoping to order my stuff before I went so I'd have a nice present when I got home. Looks like I'm outta time so might have a look to see what I can find over there. It should be really, really, really cheap!!!!
I remembered somewhere else GG said to look in the resource box after I posted my message. D'Oh.
How did you find delivery for aero-nuts? I'm just a bit wary of international orders over the internet. I can get AXI BL here from my LHS but they don't fly strykers. I'm off to china in a coupla hours but was hoping to order my stuff before I went so I'd have a nice present when I got home. Looks like I'm outta time so might have a look to see what I can find over there. It should be really, really, really cheap!!!!
#1264
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RE: F27 STRYKER, WAY PAST THE LIMITS! PART 4...
Clovus,
I have been very satisfied with Aero Nuts, package usually arrives in about a week. A couple of times it has taken up to two weeks, but I think that has more to do with norwegian customs. I think I have ordered stuff from him almost ten times the last 6-7 months. E-mail communication is very good. I also got a good discount once for an ESC that got burned when I tried 4S LIPO on it. Once I have gotten the wrong product, but it was rectified quickly.
If you go for the 2409-12T Combo, do get the connectors as well. Also order a few GWS HD props, 8x6 and 9x7.5. 8x6 can be cut down to 7x6 and 9x7.5 can be cut down to 7x7.5. This will put your Stryker on the "Dark side" right away But you need battery capable of 30 amps. The 2408-21 (BP21) draws less current and can use a less expensive battery-pack. This motor is also very good with an 8x6 prop cut down to 7x6.
Have a nice trip to China!
Hagar
I have been very satisfied with Aero Nuts, package usually arrives in about a week. A couple of times it has taken up to two weeks, but I think that has more to do with norwegian customs. I think I have ordered stuff from him almost ten times the last 6-7 months. E-mail communication is very good. I also got a good discount once for an ESC that got burned when I tried 4S LIPO on it. Once I have gotten the wrong product, but it was rectified quickly.
If you go for the 2409-12T Combo, do get the connectors as well. Also order a few GWS HD props, 8x6 and 9x7.5. 8x6 can be cut down to 7x6 and 9x7.5 can be cut down to 7x7.5. This will put your Stryker on the "Dark side" right away But you need battery capable of 30 amps. The 2408-21 (BP21) draws less current and can use a less expensive battery-pack. This motor is also very good with an 8x6 prop cut down to 7x6.
Have a nice trip to China!
Hagar
#1265
RE: F27 STRYKER, WAY PAST THE LIMITS! PART 4...
ORIGINAL: Glacier Girl
Kiwi,
As always nice pics.
So where are the crash photos? You always seem to have the nack for catching them on film.
Kiwi,
As always nice pics.
So where are the crash photos? You always seem to have the nack for catching them on film.
#1266
RE: F27 STRYKER, WAY PAST THE LIMITS! PART 4...
I thought you guys might also like these pics. One of the guys brought along a Stryker on foam floats. Turns out the floats were not quite deep enough as the prop kept hitting the water (as you can see in the second pic). Gave up and launched it with a hand toss to dry it out. Note the rudders that double as water rudders.
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RE: F27 STRYKER, WAY PAST THE LIMITS! PART 4...
ORIGINAL: hornetnz
Hey Bonefisher....what did you use to paint your body yellow? Its lookin real slick!
To the rest of the BP21 owners...how did you mount it? Using critterhunter's method, or something different? Id like to see pics of the mounting jobs
Hey Bonefisher....what did you use to paint your body yellow? Its lookin real slick!
To the rest of the BP21 owners...how did you mount it? Using critterhunter's method, or something different? Id like to see pics of the mounting jobs
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RE: F27 STRYKER, WAY PAST THE LIMITS! PART 4...
Has anyone ever tried adding rudders to their strykers. I think I remember seeing it done a while back on these threads But cant remember how it was done. It sure would add a lot of tricks to the book.
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RE: F27 STRYKER, WAY PAST THE LIMITS! PART 4...
So I went to solder on my bullet connectors last night and ended up feeling like a real n00b. Can someone pleeeeease tell me what the best way to solder these are? The wire just seemed way too big for the size hole. Actually, the female end seemed to fit the esc wires ok, but the male end seemed way too big for the leads off the bp21. I have the 3.5 mm ones, maybe should have gotten the 2mm?
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXJPY2&P=M
What I dont understand is how to solder the male connectors...especially what the large holes on the side are for. Am I sposed to put the wire thru the side hole and bend or wrap it inside?
I suck at soldering, so any tips would be greatly appreciated!!
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXJPY2&P=M
What I dont understand is how to solder the male connectors...especially what the large holes on the side are for. Am I sposed to put the wire thru the side hole and bend or wrap it inside?
I suck at soldering, so any tips would be greatly appreciated!!
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RE: F27 STRYKER, WAY PAST THE LIMITS! PART 4...
Hi :
I have just finished a Stryker setup with a HiMaxx 2815-2000kv running a 6x4 Master Airscrew prop its pulling 20amp wot, I have not run it to see how long a run time I will get at wot, but it will be somewhere between 5 & 7 minutes, so I will need some more 2200mah 3cell 11.v Lipoly packs rated at least 15c continuous, does anyone know where to buy lipoly packs cheap, if so web sites please, etc.
Thanks To All
I have just finished a Stryker setup with a HiMaxx 2815-2000kv running a 6x4 Master Airscrew prop its pulling 20amp wot, I have not run it to see how long a run time I will get at wot, but it will be somewhere between 5 & 7 minutes, so I will need some more 2200mah 3cell 11.v Lipoly packs rated at least 15c continuous, does anyone know where to buy lipoly packs cheap, if so web sites please, etc.
Thanks To All
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RE: F27 STRYKER, WAY PAST THE LIMITS! PART 4...
Kiwi,
You are the man at photography.
Viper, yep did rudders. Dual servos mounted near the tails. Keep the angle on the rudders, just like the original tails are. Will push the tail down on activation, which means the nose stays up on turns. Turns the Stryker into an airboat. Will do sliding unbanked turns, and yes you can knife edge it.
hornetnz,
Tin the wires first, apply the solder paste and solder to the wire ends first. Put a little paste in the end of the bullet. Insert the wire into the bullet, apply a little heat to the bullet, as soon as the paste starts to boil, touch the solder to it. You can use the big side hole for access if needed.
You are the man at photography.
Viper, yep did rudders. Dual servos mounted near the tails. Keep the angle on the rudders, just like the original tails are. Will push the tail down on activation, which means the nose stays up on turns. Turns the Stryker into an airboat. Will do sliding unbanked turns, and yes you can knife edge it.
hornetnz,
Tin the wires first, apply the solder paste and solder to the wire ends first. Put a little paste in the end of the bullet. Insert the wire into the bullet, apply a little heat to the bullet, as soon as the paste starts to boil, touch the solder to it. You can use the big side hole for access if needed.
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RE: F27 STRYKER, WAY PAST THE LIMITS! PART 4...
ORIGINAL: Viper87
Has anyone ever tried adding rudders to their strykers. I think I remember seeing it done a while back on these threads But cant remember how it was done. It sure would add a lot of tricks to the book.
Has anyone ever tried adding rudders to their strykers. I think I remember seeing it done a while back on these threads But cant remember how it was done. It sure would add a lot of tricks to the book.
http://media.putfile.com/StrykerTailview1
http://media.putfile.com/F27Crash
I also did some interesting mixing tricks that let me turn the rudders in opposite directions to give me air brakes.
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RE: F27 STRYKER, WAY PAST THE LIMITS! PART 4...
Hi Everyone :
I have just got this Stryker, and I have Modified it with carbon rods across under the wings , carbon rods in the rear under the mount area, and then I sprayed it with adhesive, when it was dried I used colored duck tape to cover it.
I'm using a Himaxx 2815-2000kv motor with a Master Airsrcew 6x4 Prop, a Thunder Power 2100mah 15c 45amp ESC from G.P.
I did a Static Test its drawing 20amp, and it putting out 255 watts, I have no way of doing a thrust test, but it came in at 35 ozs AUW.
Would like everyones opinion, if this bird will fly at this weight, and if so what type of speed can I expect.
Thanks All
I have just got this Stryker, and I have Modified it with carbon rods across under the wings , carbon rods in the rear under the mount area, and then I sprayed it with adhesive, when it was dried I used colored duck tape to cover it.
I'm using a Himaxx 2815-2000kv motor with a Master Airsrcew 6x4 Prop, a Thunder Power 2100mah 15c 45amp ESC from G.P.
I did a Static Test its drawing 20amp, and it putting out 255 watts, I have no way of doing a thrust test, but it came in at 35 ozs AUW.
Would like everyones opinion, if this bird will fly at this weight, and if so what type of speed can I expect.
Thanks All