Gryphon

Moparmyway,

I am very happy to see you moderate this thread. You are a very knowledgeable and technical guy. You have tons and tons of Stryker parts, and TESTEQUIPMENT.

You have very big shoes to fill; Lord Chippedprop was/is an excellent moderator.



THIS THREAD IS FOR BEGINNERS, ALL THE WAY UP TO EXTREME AND/OR EXPERIMENTAL STAGES. OUR FIRST INSTINCT WILL BE THAT EVERYTHING IS DO-ABLE. WHEN TEHRE IS A WILL; THERE IS MOST LIKELY A WAY.



*** Iknow about many of your plans for this thread. It'll be full of pics, charts, Doppler, how to articles, and parts selection etc....


Ihope the folks on this thread will help answer the questions. Chippedprop and Iwill help as well.


Let the fun begin.


The official Dark side series will forever be filled with facts...the verifiable repeatable kind of facts.



Have fun,

Gryphon

moparmyway

Hi everyone, I am Moparmyway.
I have been selected to lead this new thread and have decided to open it up with a custom build. Nothing too drastic, just a little beefing up of the body and some balsa elevons with some CF for strength. Planning on running an E-Flite 60 amp ESC with some different motor combinations. All details coming and all props will have data for every cell count flown on. I am looking forward to getting the "Traveling Motor" idea up and running so everyone can benefit from many different tests, experiences and point of views.

I want to thank Chippedprop for bestowing this great honor on me, and I also want to thank all of the past leaders and elders from these Darkside Threads who have lead and inspired me, as well as countless others


Lets get started with this build
here we have the bare fuse and motor mount, ready for me to have at it.

gotboostedvr6

Mopar,

Have fun with this thread, I hope it brings new pilots into the delta world!

I also hope # 8 bridges the gap between the ultra high power and entry level setups with some low cost good performing powersystems.

- Dave

moparmyway

Lets get the old fiberglass rods out of the way. They are extremely flimsy and wont do us much good keeping them there. We will be replacing it with some .210 CF tubing (hollow not solid). For this build I have decided on using hot glue instead of my ususal Gorilla Glue. I have weighed everything out and believe it or not, the hot glue is within .2oz (thats no typo........0.2oz) of the Gorilla Glue. Best benefit is the fact of less than 5 minutes wait time. Here we go. Lay out the screws and washers for the mount. You will see 4 motor screws and flat washers. 4 short black screws for the rear 4 holes on motor mount to airframe and 4 longer black screws for the front of the motor mount to frame attachments. The reason for the 2 lockwashers.................?????????????? I have no idea!!!!

moparmyway

Remember the flat washers have one side rounded and one side flat. The screw head must come into contact with the rounded side (right) and the flat side (left) goes downand faces or touchesthe motor mount

moparmyway

Lay the motor mount upper half onto the foam and align the back of the mount with the back of the foam. Keep a small gap of foam showing when looking from the rear. Mark the holes with permanent marker (Sharpie) and just leave a dot.I circled the dots to make seeing them much easier.

DONOTALLOWTHEMOUNTTOMOVEUNTILL ALL HOLES ARE MARKED !!!

moparmyway

We will have the "Traveling Motor" idea in full swing very soon.
It is where some motors are mailed out to fellow Darksiders for their own use, testing,and trials.
There are rules that must be adhered to, and when you become part of the program, we simply inform you where to mail the traveling motor that you would currently have and we get you another motor to try.

I know, this looks like a train waiting to wreck....................right????

I feel that if someone is unsure to get a 2200kv or a 2700kv motor, why not try each one out ????
This way you purchase the one you know performs great (your own definition of greatness goes here)

ALSO, you NEVERknow, you might just get to keep it !!!
I have been known to give things away.

All I ask is that you post pictures, test results, and flight feedback.

(OK, there are more rules than that, but you get the drift)

Anyway, I will be adding motors as we go along, and there are already some different motors with different kv's to choose from. Very cost effective motors to very efficient and expensive ones also !!
We already have some "volunteers" to start, but anyone can PM me and I will get the names on my list, very simple!!!!

moparmyway

Lets get out those fiberglass rods !!!!!

I use needle nose pliers and hold the fuse down with my hand. Just pull up straight and out they come

moparmyway

Hold up the CF that will go left to right so that a light will shadow the CF. Place it so that the motor mount screws will not hit the CF when you go to install the motor later

moparmyway

I stack 4 sawzall blades together (24 tooth work great) and tape the end together. Then you can trace your CF lines and begin cutting. You MUST cut the bottom hump to allow you to trace the left to right CF tube.

moparmyway

You must also keep the same distance on left and right sides so that the CF maintains equal distances out to the wing tip.
I measured from the slot in the vertical stabilizers cutouts, keeping the motor mount screw placement out of the way

moparmyway

When you have measured twice, then you can trace out your line.

moparmyway

Now you can cut the groove for the CF. Do NOT go too deep. You want the CF to lay just a smidgeon below the surface when you are done. Trial fit all pieces and do NOT glue anything till you are sure it will fit.

When cutting CF to size, I have found the easiest way to avoid getting a few sharp CF splinters at the end of your cut is to score the cut all of the way around the CF with eithor your hacksaw blade (the more teeth per inch, the better here) or your utility knife, then cut all of the way through.

OK, everything fits

Now, get the hot glue gun...............
**(use low temperature hot glue here, we do not want to melt too much foam. The lower temperature clear sticks will cool just as it starts melting the foam, making a superior joint with the foam)**

moparmyway

Lay in a bead into the cut channell so that it will squish a little as you push the CF deep down into place. Hot glue will get onto your fingers and you will know it !!! It only hurts a little, then you rub your fingers together and the glue comes off.

OK, CF is down and holding now.

Now I use the gun and melt glue all into the channell, all over the CF, encasing it. You will have about 3 minutes to work here before the glue cools enough so that you wont be able to work with it anymore, so plan ahead. Use an old business card to scrape off the excess. Just lay the card on its side, and scrape in one direction in one movement from beginning to end.

moparmyway

When you are done, you should have a super smoothe, flat surface of glue with the Cf embedded into it !!

Next is to size up the leading edge tubes. I lay them so they exit the wing and meet under the battery bay

moparmyway

Last is the front to back CF that runs down the middle of the hump on the bottom. Make sure you center it using the holes and grooves as your guideline to trace and cut, then glue

moparmyway

OK, glue cools and you are done !!!!

I timed it, and it took me just under about 1/2 hour for everything, from pulling out the fiberglass rods to marking the motor mount and cutting and glueing in the CF tubing.

If you have never done any CF strengthening and do not want to use hot glue, Gorilla Glue is very light and super strong also !!!

I just chose hot glue because I have a huge amount of it, and I do not have to wait overnight for it to dry !!!

moparmyway

OK Dudes,
Next up will be the bass trailing edge and balsa elevons.
running out of time now, more pictures soon !!!!!!!!

Strykerstriker

Hi Moparmyway.

Congratulate anf good luck with the fresh start of part 8 of this madnes

I'minthe planning of building another stryker, cf ala Gryphon, hopefully a brand new idea of elevons, metalgear servos, a huge and loud motor, a real lump of a battery and som other small stuff........
Well, if i just could get home form work,....




GOODLUCK,

See you all around here......



Remy

Richard39

My Feedback: (14)

Good luck Moparmyway and thanks for all of your help over the past few months....  I like the direction #8 is going and the detail easy to follow instructions....  Keep up the good work....  Richard

Gryphon

moparmyway

Remy,
I cant wait for your build!!!!
Please post pictures as you build !!!!!!!
Does not matter what you think it looks like, someone somewhere might just get an idea from it !!!!!!!
Thank You for your kindness, and I work too much too !!!! I really need 36 hours in each day !!!!

___________________________________________

Richard,
Thank You !!!!!
If we can make them go very fast, we can make them last also !!!!!
I am here for help anytime.....................just need to post or PM whenever you wish !!!
Hows about getting some pictures posted of that 2700 ?????????

____________________________________________

Gryphon,
That motor is one powerhouse !!!!!!
Check out what just arrived and is going to power something in the very near future !!!!

moparmyway

Well............lets answer this here...........OK ?

The prop numbers face forward (toward the nose of the Stryker) just like on a front mount motor. So if you were looking from the back at the spinner, you will NOT see prop numbers for an APC sport gas or APCEprop. They will be seen when you look from the front of a Stryker.

Easy way to check is to spin the prop in the direction the motor will turn, do you see the prop blades wanting to grab the air ?? It is on correctly then.

joe1

My Feedback: (9)

Hi Moparmyway :=}
Welcome as our newest elder and I think you will do a very good job .
I also want to thank chippedprop for all of his time and knowledge he has shared with everyone.
I have just got done building a new stryker and thanks to Gryphon for all his helpand suggestions on a motor and prop to provide enough power to get my new one into the air and still get me up around 85 to 90 mph.
My plane is covered with duct tape and has 4mm carbon tubes, it's RTF weight is 44 oz's.
I'm using a ARC 28/47/2 the kv is around 2200 rpm and I'm using 4000mah 15c 3 cell lipo's and it is turning 16,800 rpm using a APC 7x5-E at 52 amps and using 580 watts at 11.5 volts static.
It drops to 48 amps with in 5 seconds so I hoping it will drop to around 45 in the air.

nova50073

My Feedback: (1)

Thank you guys for all the info, really beats going out and crashing a plane to see what you need to beef up.
speaking of crashing, here is a little video for your intertainment

vimeo.com/5227610

just fast forward from the 2:10 to about 4:00 while I do the walk of shame to retrive my stryker lawn dart.

BTW could someone get a audio reading off this and tell me how I was going just BEFORE the crash.
I just cant seem to get a program to do doppler that is user friendly.

I bow down to the big thumbs of the darker side.

just glad to be here