GorillaToast

Acrylic Enamel, Urethane, Duplicolor, Klass Kote?

I'm at the glassing stage of my first 2M pattern plane and it's time to start thinking about what type / brand of paint I will use for finishing. I will be spraying and all surfaces will be painted.
I've looked at a lot of build threads and youtube videos, but I haven't seen anyone be specific about what chemistry / brands they are using, or if they show pictures of the paint cans the words are not in English. I'm following Isaac Najary's method of gluing and filling the cloth.




Thanks for any suggestions.
Bill

speedracerntrixie

My Feedback: (29)

Bill, I’m unaware of Issac’s method but what I have done is glassed the surfaces with 3/4oz cloth applied with epoxy laminating resin thinned 20%. Once cured sand lightly with 320 grit. I prime with Klass Kote white epoxy primer with fast hardener. Sand the first coat with 220. Second coat with 320 and third coat with 400. Typically 3 coats is all it’s going to take, sand about 75% off each coat. I spray a base of white Duplicolor lacquer and then any trim colors. The final step is a 2K clear either gloss or matte finish.

GorillaToast

Thanks speedracertrixie.

Nice looking airplane! Duplicolor seems to be a fairly popular product. Do you find any significant weight gain using the epoxy primer? I'm spraying nitrocellulose sanding sealer thinned with lacquer thinner. The .5oz cloth was glued down with the sanding sealer mixed with talc and the weave filled with the same mix. Next I'll spray two coats of sealer thinned by a third and sanded with 800 grit w/d. I'm supposed to be able to go straight to base coat after that.

speedracerntrixie

My Feedback: (29)

Not much weight gain provided you remove most of it during the sanding process. The primer that is left behind should only be filling the weave and some low spots. The pictured airplane did come out heavy however that was due to a heavy layup and over application of clear. The next one used the same paint prep and came out at 4500 grams RTF.

kenh3497

I agree with Shawn's paint method. Sandpaper is your friend! BUT 800 grit is a bit fine for a final sanding of your primer. The color needs some "tooth" to bite into. I personally never go beyond 400. I've know some go 600 but IMO I think that is pushing the limit.

I've used lacquer, (primer and color) acrylic craft, and various rattle can brands for color. All followed by a 2K automotive clear with good success. "small" quantities seems to be an issue for us modelers. For color, acrylic craft paints, especially yellow and red, do not seem to cover well. But then any yellow or red do not cover well. I will be trying some artist acrylic next time out. They are usually richer in pigment and are water based so cleanup is easy. They are very thick so thinning will be very necessary.

I've heard of using lacquer to attach glass cloth but never adding talc to it. Talc is IMO heavy. I would skip the sanding sealer and go strait to your primer and follow the advice from Shawn. For me I bear in mind to use the absolute minimum to do the job. Sand off almost all the primer, spray color just enough to reach full saturation and clear only enough to seal the color. Paint can be just as light as plastic coat. It just takes a bit more effort.

Ken

GorillaToast

Here is one of his many build threads showing his finishing method for pattern planes.

ARIXTRA Build Thread by ISAAC NAJARY

Post #174 shows a spreadsheet of his steps.