joebob

My Feedback: (14)

I guess I'm too much of a fair-weather flier. It ain't much fun to me when the plane is bouncing all over the sky from the gusts. I pull up into a hover and within 10 seconds, the plane has been blown all the way down the runway. Can't flat spin cause I'll end up in the next county by the time it gets low enough to pull out. And of course, 90% of the time, we're talking dead crosswind, too. Oh well. It's gotta quit some time. I may have to start flying at night! [:-]

joebob

My Feedback: (14)

Sitting here this weekend wishing I was in Memphis, but all was not lost. The wind finally broke today after almost 3 months of 15-20mph gusts. Almost dead calm so I took the Yak out to get in some flying. I've been flying on AFP for about 3 weeks and this was the first time I've been able to try out my new skills. I must say the sim helped tremendously in teachng me to hover. I could hold it for almost a minute, and even managed a torque roll, and I've NEVER been able to pull one of those off.

On the bad side, I'm not too happy with the Magnum 91XLS I have on the Yak. All I have is 20% Pro Pattern fuel anf the Magnum just doesn't like it. I get a LOT of pinging in the mid range, and it always overheats and quits. I didn't have that problem with the Omega 10% I broke it in with. I may have to start saving for a Saito 100 or possibly a YS 110. I have a Saito .91 I want to try on it, but I'm afraid it won't be enough.

SMALLFLY-

My Feedback: (19)

I put a new saito 120 on mine and I would not want any less motor, I dont think you would be happy at all with a 91. I flew my mag 91 on 10% wildcat

joebob

My Feedback: (14)

smallfly,

Did you have to do anything different with the balance when you went to the 120? My .91 is pretty much at the end of the rails now. That's the main reason I haven't tried the Saito yet. I'd have to add about 4 oz to the nose to get it to balance.

Time to start selling some more stuff, I guess.

YS-I-DO

My Feedback: (-1)

I've got some covering questions......

1. To make the trim scheme I have chosen easier, I will have to overlap approx. 200 square inches of Ultracote. Will this add alot of weight?

2. If I choose not to overlap, and cut separate panels for each color, will the two pieces mate correctly if the joint is over an open bay in the wing? In other words, the only bond at the joint will be UC to UC, with no wood involved.

By the way, the scheme I've chosen is the plane on the cover of the new AMA magazine, minus the silver. Thanks.

m.gramling

My Feedback: (8)

this is just a personal thing, I prefer not to join colors together over and open bay. I do it over a cap strip. but opinions very.

but I think overlaying them over an open bay is fine.

jldecarlo

I agree.

If I was going to overlap over an open bay I would use monokote since IMO it sticks to itself much better than ultracote. But a much better plan is just not to do it.

Leonard

YS-I-DO

My Feedback: (-1)

What about the weight issue? Are we talking 10 grams? 5 ounces? People keep telling me to think light while doing this build, but it seems that after a while you would be splitting hairs over a complete non-issue.

Blackie

Yes I Do, go back and look through my post, I believe I mentioned that I did each piece individually, on post #181 I over lapped the strips on the bottom 1/2". All my over laps are lapped at 1/2" the top of the plane all colors are done the same, covering used Ultracote.


Blackie

Constrictor

My Feedback: (46)

I change colors over open areas all the time with great results. I always cover the top of the wing first so you can go under and press on the covering overlaps while ironing, I never have issues with my ultracoat comming apart over open wings. Now if I could just get hinge line seals to stay on![:@]

joebob

My Feedback: (14)

The only problem I had joining over open bays is that the covering, especially Ultrakote, tends to pull away if you heat it up too much. This is probably more me than anything else, though. On my Yak, I tried this technique with the rudder and one side doesn't look all that great because the top color shrunk a little too much. My straight line now has a bow in it. But, I only used about 1/4" overlap. Next time I'll try a lot more overlap and see how it goes.

Constrictor

My Feedback: (46)

Ultrakote, tends to pull away if you heat it up too much.



You hit the nail on the head bro. When you ruin the covering with too much heat ultracoat pulls away and curls up. The solution: Buy an iron like mine that has an adjustable temperature right on top with the little dial knob and turn the heat down and youll never have that problem. Ultracoat is low temp covering but if you really need to get a wrinkle out or smooth out a compound curve you can turn up the heat and get it out, but normal covering should be done at about middle way on the covering temp knob.

SMALLFLY-

My Feedback: (19)

I set the 120 back as far as I could on the mount, removed the intake trumpet (got another 200 rom's doing that) and moved the battery into the rearmost part of the opposite wing panel. only requires a touch of down when inverted, gained around 6+ oz as I remember but fly's absolutely no different except for lots more low end torque. after about a gallon now Im getting around 9200 rpm on a apc 16-6 with 15% nitro. Just readjusting the valves brought it up 400 rpm. It pulls out of a hover pretty well now and TR's much better than the 2 stroke. The YS 110 would be a good choice as well IF you like YS. The saito was about 25 bucks cheaper from chief. 305 shipped. I love the motor, has run great with perfect transition from the first fueling. Save your pennies, you will like it. For very little more weight gain I would consider the 150 If I had to do it again. That would give great punch out power

joebob

My Feedback: (14)

My airplane budget isn't getting replenished much lately. About the only way I can get new toys is to sell some of the other stuff. The only thing I have now I could let go is a UCD .46, but I kind of want to save that for my son who's getting tired of his 4*60. Maybe I could sell it instead. Hmmmm.....

YS-I-DO

My Feedback: (-1)

Thank you all so much for the input. Probably shouldn't have picked such an ambitious scheme for my first covering job, but hey, no guts, no glory.

barto

Hello,

I have a small question,

what would be the best choice for powering this one, an os 90 fx or a 108 fsr?

Blackie

You might want to consider a 4 stroke, the throttle transition is much better then the 2 stroke.

joebob

My Feedback: (14)

I'm using a Magnum .91XLS on mine. I borrowed an Ultrathrust muffler and am turning an APC 16x4 prop at 10500. The vertical is ballistic. Takes a while to spool down, though. That said, if your choice is between the two engines you mentioned, I'd go for the 1.08. A lot of folks have had carb problems with the .91, plus the Yak tends to come out a little tail heavy if you're not careful.

PaulSwany

My Feedback: (45)

NOT!!!!!!!

But then again... I'd have to say that the 4 banger on Constrictor's yak was aweome... My only experience with 4 bangers in on a 40 size profile that is prone to vibration....

barto

The vibration was something I was worried about.

I think I'm going for a that 108, never heard or read any complaint about it, the 90 did have a lot of problems.

I still like the sound of a four stroke better but since I am only 18 and don't have a job (yet) I think I'll go for the cheaper solution. I'll buy it at Bruckner Hobbies, lot's cheaper than here in Belgium. In my LHS it costs about 350 euros if I'm not mistaking. In the states that's only 200 euros so I can use that money on more powerfull servo's. Dunno which ones I'm going to use though, I'm thinking of the futaba S 9405, S 9304 or S 9001.

thanks for the fast reply

Blackie

Without seeing the expression on you face its hard to tell if you just joking around but never the less by your statement following you have no experiance with a 4 stroke so I rest my case. I have both and have experience with both thus leads to the reasoning for my statement.

On my Ucando 3D I'm running a pumped 91FX and on the Yak I'm running the Saito 100, the 4 stroke is by far the best for 3D type flying, due to the promp throttle response over the 2 stroke and that goes for any 4 stroke. As far a vibration I'd check the various items that might cause this. Needle settings, prop balance, shaft and even the fuel mixture, as my 100 runs smooth as a babies bottom.

Barto if $$$ are an issue you might want to consider the Super Tiger G90, I'm breaking in my very first one now and so far its not let me down, pricing on this engine is cheap.

Blackie

PaulSwany

My Feedback: (45)

I wasn't joking..... And I've spent some time with a Saito .82 4 stroke on my Extreme flight edge. It has an inherent vibration problem between 1/4 and mid throttle... Makes it really hard to find the sweet spot in a harrier. I've spent tons of time needling this engine and have had numerous other bro's look at it and witness the problem.... I flatly just don't like this engine very much..... My 2 stroke Webra .50 blows it's doors off.... On the other hand, the YS 110 on Constrictor's Yak was awesome. Throttle great... had excellent power... Maybe it's just the smaller 4 strokes I don't like...

Having said that... I believe this is largely a personal preference.... I stated my opinion as you did yours.

Blackie

Paul have you tried adjusting your valves? One other thing you might do is, send it in to have Saito take a look at it, under warrenty.

Blackie

PaulSwany

My Feedback: (45)

Blackie - yup... I've adjusted them... It was a good running motor, just had this nagging problem with transition.... I've sold the motor.. Most guys would probably love it... But since I've flying with the wing stalled more than half the time, I really need it when I need it....

But thanks for your input. I still have my Saito .91 that I'm going to build a profile for... It seemed to transition much better than the .82. I'm thinking that the .82 might just be a little too much poop stuffed in too small a bag...

barto

Yea I know the st's are good engines. Is the ST a ringed one, and the 108?

At brucker hobbies, shop in NY where I'll be going, the price for the st is 129 dollars (that only 107 euros) so that price is awesome.
Thanks for the tip, I'll compare the two for weight and all.

Cheers