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OMP 50in 10-300 Ultimate - Marty's Build

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OMP 50in 10-300 Ultimate - Marty's Build

Old 01-31-2005, 09:45 PM
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Default RE: OMP 50in 10-300 Ultimate - Marty's Build

After allowing to dry overnight, pins are taken out.

A light sanding to smooth out transition between capstrips and sheeting.
Any irregularities here will show through the covering.
A little filler is used where material needs to be built back up instead of sanded down.
This is a good time to get to this as the structures are still firmly pinned down.

Wing panel structures are now taken off the board and put aside.
Still need to apply trailing edge sheeting and capstrips to opposite side before joining.
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Old 01-31-2005, 09:47 PM
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Default RE: OMP 50in 10-300 Ultimate - Marty's Build

Also need to deal with broken sheeting mentioned earlier.
It’s been a while since I have had to deal with this, so this is sort of an experiment.

Measure an even distance from the spar. Mark using pins.
Tape the straightedge against the pins with masking tape.
Using a new #11 blade, cut the sheeting above the break as straight as possible.
Clean up all goo and globs left of the ribs and leading edge.

Graft a replacement piece of sheeting, making a hinge with masking tape.
Put a bead of glue down on the tape hinge line, rib tops and leading edge.
Pull the whole assembly back down using masking tape strips.

I think this will come out OK.
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Old 01-31-2005, 09:49 PM
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Default RE: OMP 50in 10-300 Ultimate - Marty's Build

Stick structure go together next.
This goes together very quickly. Prefabrication is excellent.
No angle cuts are required on any of the sticks, which saves a lot of time.

An extra part provided for the rudder assembly which I think is no longer required.
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Old 02-01-2005, 10:15 PM
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Default RE: OMP 50in 10-300 Ultimate - Marty's Build

Pin down wings upside down on building board.
1/2sq balsa sticks are used as shims below the spars to elevate above the mounting tabs.
Straight 1x2 sticks are used to support the trailing edge.

Glue on the trailing edges. Above jigging ensures we don’t build in warps.

Capstrips go on while wing is pinned down, as before.
Once glue is dry, blend capstrips into sheeting. Sand high spots, fill low spots.

This completes the basic framing for the wings.
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Old 02-01-2005, 10:17 PM
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Default RE: OMP 50in 10-300 Ultimate - Marty's Build

OK, now we break out the sanding blocks, put on the dust mask.

Chop the excess spar and sheet at the ends of the panels.
Sand the trailing edge straight. Sand in the curvature in the leading edge.

This tool is a big help for this step.
It’s just a piece of 4ft shelving with 100 grit sanding belt glued on with contact cement.

Once that’s complete, the trailing edge bevel and tip ribs go on.
Note glue line is protected with colored tape.
A little more work now, but this pays off later.
No goo to sand off on adjacent wood. Provides a guide to sand flush.
This tip works especially well when using foaming glues like polyurethane.
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Old 02-01-2005, 10:19 PM
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Default RE: OMP 50in 10-300 Ultimate - Marty's Build

Now we start prepping fuselage subassemblies.

The cabane assembly in this kit is balsa sandwiched in lite ply.
Fiddling with gooey parts trying to get them aligned is not my idea of fun.
Especially when you end up getting in a hurry, and end up with a crooked part anyway.

Here’s a good way to get it right the first time.
First, preassemble using double-sided tape.
Get the parts aligned perfect. If they’re off, just pry them apart and try again.

When satisfied with the alignment, drill through the assembly to fit round toothpicks.
That way, once you go back with glue, the pieces just snap together.
Use side cutters to remove the excess toothpicks, and clamp down on a straight surface.
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Old 02-01-2005, 10:22 PM
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Default RE: OMP 50in 10-300 Ultimate - Marty's Build

Now on to the fuselage sheeting.
The instructions do a good job of taking you through this.

If you want a built-in antenna tube, this is the time to plan it.
This is also the time to fine tune the throttle servo placement.
If you need special hard points for mounting tanks, tuned pipes, etc. plan it now.

The skins are very easy to put together in this kit. Just a few seams to tape together.

I like to get as much stuff built up front (under the skins) as possible.
That way, most of the finish work gets done when the outer skins are put on.

I like to vacuum bag these together with polyurethane glue.
Weights as described in the instructions works too.
By the way, this is another place where pre-fitting with toothpicks works well.
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Old 02-02-2005, 01:41 AM
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Default RE: OMP 50in 10-300 Ultimate - Marty's Build

Very nice Marty! Looks like this bipe is not going to be a headache to build. Only headache for me is waiting for South African customs to let mine come home [:@] Keep this speed up and she'll be flying in no time! [sm=thumbup.gif]
Old 02-02-2005, 08:05 AM
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Default RE: OMP 50in 10-300 Ultimate - Marty's Build

Marty, I've got to say I'm very impressed with your talent and sharing of tips! Love the toothpick idea! Maybe I could just have those holes premade with the ole laser beam!
Old 02-02-2005, 07:43 PM
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Default RE: OMP 50in 10-300 Ultimate - Marty's Build

It’s like Christmas morning when you’ve had one of these cooking in the bag overnight.

Cut it open and unwrap it, pull off the tape.
Sand what’s left of the toothpicks flush,
sheeting even, and square with the foam all around, and this is what you get.

See [link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_1806691/anchors_1806851/mpage_1/key_/anchor/tm.htm#1806851]this thread[/link] for a discussion about vacuum bagging these fuselages.

This is a good time to pencil mark the thrust line (nose to tail) on the sheeting.
Do it on both sides, and make sure the lines are placed identically.
This line will be used as reference for
1. Motor box placement
2. Horizontal stab placement/alignment/incidence
3. Horizontal seams in the covering
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Old 02-02-2005, 07:44 PM
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Default RE: OMP 50in 10-300 Ultimate - Marty's Build

Next step is getting the motor box assembled and mounted.

Motor box is fitted to the crankcase size of the motor. (Saito 100 for me)
Everything is epoxyed together on the building board, per the instructions.
Note second spacer on the front. This is just for alignment – It is not glued in!

Once that has set, mark the center line on the box.
Then align this centerline with the thrust line drawn on the fuselage.
The perimeter of the box in this location is what you need to cut out of the fuse.

Then you just epoxy in the box in the resulting cavity.
Pay attention you glue it in the right direction!
Spacer at the front (Guarantees rails stay parallel) is discarded after this operation.

BTW, if you have any doubts about the strength of sheeted foam construction,
spend a few minutes doing some destructive testing on the chunk you just took out.
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Old 02-02-2005, 07:46 PM
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Default RE: OMP 50in 10-300 Ultimate - Marty's Build

Once the motor box has set, the fuselage perimeter can be capped all in one step.
Note green tape around the perimeter (again) to guide sanding back to edges.

Wetting the wood with ammonia works well to soften the wood around contours.
Slicing kerfs into the wood works well too. I did a bit of both.

This is a very straightforward job. Use polyurethane glue like for the sheeting.

Rest of the day was spent sanding all the other parts built so far.
Lots and lots of sanding…

Oh, if you have this kit, watch the videos on the CD!
Watching the prototype fly is really motivating me to get this one in the air!
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Old 02-03-2005, 07:58 AM
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Default RE: OMP 50in 10-300 Ultimate - Marty's Build

Thanks Marty for the compliment on the video. We've had snow on the ground here pretty much for a month now but this weekend looks to be close to 50 and sunshine so guess what? I'm going flying with my Ultimate Bipe! My buddy will be bringing his 79" Yak Profile to test out the new sport pipe we set up on it. Should be a blast.
Old 02-03-2005, 08:00 AM
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Default RE: OMP 50in 10-300 Ultimate - Marty's Build

That's 3D Buddy mister!
Old 02-05-2005, 11:58 AM
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Default RE: OMP 50in 10-300 Ultimate - Marty's Build

Marty:
Thanks for the great tips on building the OMP 50 Ultimate. Before I viewed your posts I posted a request for building tips. Now I have them all plus tips for building other kits.

Are you going to continue withtips for mounting the Rx, battery and other stuff??

Thanks
Again
HotRCair
Old 02-07-2005, 09:07 PM
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Default RE: OMP 50in 10-300 Ultimate - Marty's Build

Flying weather has been pretty good over here for the past few days.
So progress on this plane has slowed a tad.

We pick up with the balsa capped fuselage perimeter.
Once the glue has set, excess capping material needs to be sanded flush with the sheeting.
Masking tape provides a surface to guide the sanding block without damaging sheeting.
Use 60 grit for roughing in. Stop when the green tape starts getting sanded off.
Then take all the tape off, and delicately finish off on the bare wood with 100 grit.

This is a grimy job.
Note old bath towel to catch most of the sawdust.
Also helps prevent finished surfaces from getting marred on the workbench.

Once this is done, the ply doublers go on with epoxy.

Following that, the cavities previously marked on the plans are cut back out.
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Old 02-07-2005, 09:09 PM
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Default RE: OMP 50in 10-300 Ultimate - Marty's Build

The fuselage on this plane is just narrow enough that the servos need to stick through.
(I guess you could elevate them 1/4in on the mounting side too)

To keep grime out of the servo cavities, I capped the bottoms with a little balsa box.
Make a little sanding tool to cut the taper. I first did this on my Yak, and it worked great.
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Old 02-07-2005, 09:11 PM
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Default RE: OMP 50in 10-300 Ultimate - Marty's Build

Fuselage is now basically complete.
Servos are mounted. Extensions are either too long, or just a little short. [:@]

Next step is joining the wings, and fitting them to the fuse.
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Old 02-07-2005, 09:26 PM
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Default RE: OMP 50in 10-300 Ultimate - Marty's Build

Cool thread Marty,

I'm following it since I have one of these hot in the box waiting for a
clean building board. Nice to know and see what to expect.
2 Q please.
1.am i supposed to sand the burnt laser cuts where the glue hits it?
2.why a two piece foamfuse and did you do anything to strengthen it?

a one piece fuse would make more sense to me but i guess there's a reason for that.
thanks, pat
Old 02-07-2005, 10:09 PM
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Default RE: OMP 50in 10-300 Ultimate - Marty's Build

ORIGINAL: miamiflyer

1.am i supposed to sand the burnt laser cuts where the glue hits it?
2.why a two piece foamfuse and did you do anything to strengthen it?
1. I never bother, unless the wood is really charred. It if fits good, I wouldn't mess with it.

2. The fuse is in 2 pieces to keep the size of the box small, and shipping charges down.
No need to strengthen - The strength of the assembly comes from the balsa skin, not the foam core.
Old 02-09-2005, 09:46 PM
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Default RE: OMP 50in 10-300 Ultimate - Marty's Build

Moving along, time to join the wing halves.

I have been putting off this step, scratching my head for the past few days.
I’m uncomfortable with the engineering of this part of the model.
But after it’s all said and done, I just followed the instructions anyway.

We start by gluing the panels together.
I temporarily installed the secondary spars while the glue was wet, to ensure alignment.

Next step is permanently gluing in the secondary spars. This is my first issue.
Note how the secondary spars need to be compressed down to fit properly.
The same thing needs to be done to the sheeting which goes over this area on both sides.
This was especially troublesome for the hardwood spars in the upper wing.
(These double as aileron servo mounting rails)

Once the secondary spars are in, the wing center area is sheeted. (No pics, sorry)

Issue two is all flight stresses are going to be absorbed by these two spars and sheeting.
Something reinforcing the sheeting around the leading edge would make me feel better.
I’m considering adding a strip of fiberglass up there.
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Old 02-09-2005, 09:49 PM
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Default RE: OMP 50in 10-300 Ultimate - Marty's Build

Time to start making these parts look like an airplane.

Bottom wing goes on first.
Alignment dowel in the front, ¼-20 nylon bolt in the rear.
Check for square before drilling. Pretty standard construction.

Top wing goes on next. 10 #4 capscrews are required for assembly.
Even with the narrow wing saddle areas, this whole assembly is remarkably stiff.

Assembly was checked for squareness and appropriate incidences.
According to Mike, everything is supposed to be set to zero degrees.

Everything lined up good for me, first time, without any adjustments. [sm=thumbup.gif]
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Old 02-09-2005, 09:55 PM
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Default RE: OMP 50in 10-300 Ultimate - Marty's Build

Once I have the wing mounted and aligned, I like to fit the saddle to the wing.
This gives the wing mount optimal mechanical structure, and makes it look nice.
(Most people don’t bother with this, but this extra step makes me feel good)

First, tape down the glue perimeter on the fuselage. Helps keep the mess down.
Next, tighten down some plastic wrap on the side of the wing facing the fuselage.
This will be the release layer for the epoxy and micro balloons mix.

Now mix up about 1oz of 30-minute epoxy.
Stir in micro-balloons until the mixture has the consistency of peanut butter.
Smear this stuff evenly on the wing saddle.

Now bolt on the lower wing, upper wing and cabanes too while you are at it.
Check again for squareness and alignment, and set the plane aside until the epoxy sets.
You want to get the glue to the “green” state – NOT a full cure.
The filler will have a rubbery texture (Like thick putty) at this point.
This took 2 hours for me, but there are lots of variables – So keep an eye on it.

Now release the plastic wrap from the wing, and take the wing off the plane.
Do a coarse trim job using a single edge blade, and leave the rest to cure overnight.
Now, the bottom wing will fit “perfect” on the fuselage.

The wing bolt and dowel are discarded and replaced at this point. (Full of glue)
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Old 02-10-2005, 07:44 AM
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Default RE: OMP 50in 10-300 Ultimate - Marty's Build

Marty do you think the incidence meters are really needed to get it right? I don't have one?
Old 02-10-2005, 08:53 AM
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Default RE: OMP 50in 10-300 Ultimate - Marty's Build

Wow Marty you continue to impress me with your skills. Very nice touch on the tail servos and bottom wing fitting. On the center wing joints, remember that not all the flight loads transfer there as you have two outer cabane struts that also help distribute the loads. Thus the whole biplane wing structure is really distributing the loads across both wings which have a separation of quite a few inches. Look at some of the giant scale biplanes and the size of the wing tubes used. My friends 46% Aeroworks Ultimate has really small wingtubes but after thinking about all the rest of the structure it makes sense.

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