Matney's Napier Revisited
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Matney's Napier Revisited
The landing gear legs were shortened to my preference in the following pictures:
Last edited by sahartman21; 06-14-2014 at 08:57 AM.
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Matney's Napier Revisited
In the following pictures the model is being prepped for painting.
The model was lightly sanded with 220 grit sandpaper.
Lightweight spackle was spread over the surface to fill in holes and low spots.
The model was lightly sanded with 220 grit sandpaper.
Lightweight spackle was spread over the surface to fill in holes and low spots.
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Matney's Napier Revisited
I mixed about 6 ounces of KlassKoat white primer for the model.
The directions recommend waiting about 30 minutes prior to thinning and painting.
I used a lacquer thinner and used 1 part thinner for each part of paint.
The directions recommend waiting about 30 minutes prior to thinning and painting.
I used a lacquer thinner and used 1 part thinner for each part of paint.
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Matney's Napier Revisited
The primer was wet sanded until the fuselage was smooth. Allow the surface to dry.
A coat of Acrylic Enamel (with hardener) was sprayed on the surface. Set it out of the way to dry.
A coat of Acrylic Enamel (with hardener) was sprayed on the surface. Set it out of the way to dry.
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Matney's Napier Revisited
The following pictures shows the preparation for the trim.
Several stencils were purchase from the local sign shop.
These were tacked in place and then the rest of the model was masked off.
Several stencils were purchase from the local sign shop.
These were tacked in place and then the rest of the model was masked off.
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Matney's Napier Revisited
Several light coats of Krylon gloss black paint were lightly sprayed on the surface.
Kryron dries fast so I removed the masking tape and stencils a few minutes after painting.
Kryron dries fast so I removed the masking tape and stencils a few minutes after painting.
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Matney's Napier Revisited
The edges of the trim have a ridge after removing the tape.
I followed by lightly wet sanding the trim edges until they blended in.
Decals are an easy way to add some personality. A couple Futaba decals were applied.
I followed by lightly wet sanding the trim edges until they blended in.
Decals are an easy way to add some personality. A couple Futaba decals were applied.
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Matney's Napier Revisited
Tack the model to remove any dust.
Approximately 5 ounces of spot panel clear coat was mixed. I added about 1.5 ounces of fast enamel thinner to make it easier to spray.
An inexpensive spray gun was purchased from Harbor Freight and was used to spray on the clear coat.
Start by lightly spraying a dust coat. Wait a few minutes and continue to spray several more light coats.
Just apply enough clear coat until the surface starts to shine.
At the end I added some thinner to the spray gun. I lightly sprayed the surface to help level out the surface.
Set the parts out of the way to dry.
Approximately 5 ounces of spot panel clear coat was mixed. I added about 1.5 ounces of fast enamel thinner to make it easier to spray.
An inexpensive spray gun was purchased from Harbor Freight and was used to spray on the clear coat.
Start by lightly spraying a dust coat. Wait a few minutes and continue to spray several more light coats.
Just apply enough clear coat until the surface starts to shine.
At the end I added some thinner to the spray gun. I lightly sprayed the surface to help level out the surface.
Set the parts out of the way to dry.
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Matney's Napier Revisited
The following shows the gear setup on the model.
The axel should be approximately 1 3/4" back from the leading edge of the wing.
A swept forward gear is shown in the last picture. This type should also work fine with the suggested axel location.
The axel should be approximately 1 3/4" back from the leading edge of the wing.
A swept forward gear is shown in the last picture. This type should also work fine with the suggested axel location.
Last edited by sahartman21; 10-07-2014 at 09:28 AM.