Bozarth

My Feedback: (15)

Hey Scott,

Nice build thread. Great pictures. What are your thoughts behind the dowel aileron servo mounts as opposed to the typical cutout slot in the wing? I have never done the dowel mounting method so I don’t know the pros/cons. Thanks!

Kurt

sahartman21

the sThe method with dowel aileron servo installation works very well with this model. It has long aileron horns and installing the servo on the dowels connects very well with long horns.

I could have used a cutout. The servo would require raising a little as the wing is relatively thin in the location where the hole would be.

Either way should work fine.

sahartman21

The entire model was lightly sanded with 220 grit sandpaper used dry.

sahartman21

I followed by filling any larger holes with polyester filler (Bondo).

In about 30 minutes the filler is dry enough to sand. Lightly sand as required.

sahartman21

I used the time-proven method of filling the model surface with spackle.

Apply a thin layer and rub it into the surface to fill any pinholes.

Make sure the ailerons and other movable surface is not covered with spackle and set the model out of the way to dry.

sahartman21

The surface of the model was lightly sanded with 220 grit sandpaper used dry.

I followed by wiping and blowing off the surface with an air blower.

sahartman21

I mixed about 5 ounces (by weight) of epoxy primer. I waited 30 minutes and then added an equal volume of lacquer thinner.

Parts were lightly sprayed (outside) with the primer until the surface was sealed.

The airframe was set out of the way to dry.

sahartman21

I dry sanded the surface of the primer with 220 and 400 grit sand paper.

There were a few areas that needed touch up. I will fill, prime, and sand those areas again.

sahartman21

Cold temperatures or not I am running out of time if I want to race this model at Phoenix.

I mixed about 5 ounces of Acrylic Enamel. It was allowed to warm up before spraying.

Several light coats were applied until the surface was covered. This is where I have to tell myself that the model is to race and not show off.

I followed by moving the model inside the garage to dry.

sahartman21

The surface was lightly wet sanded prior to adding the stencils.

I've found that everything that you don't want painted should be covered.

sahartman21

Several very light coats of Krylon rattle can type gloss black paint were applied. Allow to dry between coats.

sahartman21

In just a few minutes the paint is dry enough to remove the tape and stencils.

Remove them and set the model out of the way to dry further.

Let the paint dry several more days before applying clear coat.

yankee samurai

My Feedback: (175)

Great presentation!

sahartman21

Thanks for reviewing and complementing.

This thread is primarily there to help the newcomer.

sahartman21

The wind settled down this evening and so I took the opportunity to spray on the clear coat.

I used a clear coat intended for spot repairs as that type dries fast and works well. I thinned the mix with about 1/3 part thinner per 1 part of clear coat.

A light mist was applied first.

After about 10 minutes another coat was applied.

This continued until there were no dull areas.

Here are some pictures:

sahartman21

This evening the model was wet sanded (800 or 2000 grit sandpaper) to remove any grit present in the finish. I followed by polishing and waxing.

Pictures are shown below:

sahartman21

A cutoff disk was used to gently cut through the inside layer of fiberglass cloth between the foam core and wood.

Take your time and don't cut too deep.

sahartman21

The model is now ready to reinstall the radio, engine, and tank.

With a little luck the first flights will be next week in Phoenix.

fizzwater2

My Feedback: (61)

Good luck out there, Scott! Have fun

sahartman21

Here are some pictures showing the ailerons being cut free and the servo being reinstalled:

The servo works equally as well in this location as in a hole cut on top of the wing.

sahartman21

The elevator was cut free and a small piece of tape (medical tape) was applied at the corners. This reduces the possibility of flutter and hinge damage.

We now must have the FAA number on your model. The last picture shows my number.

sahartman21

Here are more pictures showing radio and engine installation:

sahartman21

Here are a few pictures of the completed model:

sahartman21

These are the approximate throws required on each control surface based upon a model balanced at 3 3/4" to 3 7/8" back from the front of the wing saddle:

• Elevator low rate = 7/64" up and less down Elevator high rate = 1/8" to 3/16" up and more down
• Rudder low rate = 3/16" each way Rudder high rate = 5/16" each way
• Aileron low rate = 1/8" each way Aileron high rate = 3/16" each way

It is OK to start with a little more elevator during the first couple trim flights.

Take off using the low rate settings. During take-off apply full right rudder, full up elevator, and a small amount of right aileron.

sahartman21

My Jett CG tank is located on a piece of firm foam so that the bottom of the tank is about 7/8" above the wing.

A relatively high tank is necessary to insure that the engine does not go lean when going through a high "G" turn.