JEREMYB

My Feedback: (1)

I need to get some servos for my Scat Cat.. I'm looking for some smaller ones that would work good with no proublems. Some thing good enought that would last awhile.. I perfer Hitech or Jr.. What do you guys think..


THANKS

JEREMY

djlyon

hitec 225s

JEREMYB

My Feedback: (1)

Should I get the metal gear ones or the plastic gear ones.. I guessing the metal ones...


HS-225MG Mighty Mini


Thanks

JEREMY

Bill Vargas

My Feedback: (5)

225mg's are ok but they will wear out faster than plastic geared servos,,, another good servo might be the Jr MN48's,,, or if you got money to burn, like most pylon Racers do, then I would suggest digital servos from Jr or futaba.

BV

ckeene9

My Feedback: (-1)

Haven't been into the racing for very long but I know that JR3421's will last in the conditions of racing. Clear as mud right?

daven

My Feedback: (1)

Yep, the 3421's have worked well for me, as well as the JR 3121, and the Futaba 9650. They are just kinda spendy options when the HItec 225's and/or JR MN-48 will work just fine for the Scat Cat.

What motor are you putting on the bird?

JEREMYB

My Feedback: (1)

OS AX 46 What prop is going to be the best for that.?

daven

My Feedback: (1)

10x7 apc sport prop works great with that motor. A couple other props that work well are:

9 1/2 x 8 N
9 1/2 x 8.25 N
9 1/2 x 8.5 N

JEREMYB

My Feedback: (1)

daven, Thanks again for you help with everything.. I'm looking at these servos http://www.servocity.com/html/hs-225bb_mighty_mini.html , and you think I should go with the nylon gears not the meatal? right?

jeremy

Super Splatter

225's are it ! a bit smaller, a bit lighter. Get 3 of those and an 85 for the throttle, not the 81. get the nylon

Back when Scat Cat's were it, they sold over 4000 kits a year

SSAN

For what it's worth, I used many Hitec 225 in the past and was a big believer back then. However, none of them really center well and left me very frustrated at times. After I decided to spend the money and switch to the JR Mini Digital (for AMA 428) and JR MN48 (for AMA 424) with great results, I've never look back. Now, I've purchased six Futaba 3002 and S9650 and will try these out and see what happens.

I'm a Futaba guy when it comes to radio and a JR guy when it comes to servos. Although, I don't mind Futaba servos, but never had much experience with them to really comment on it. I hope these six new Futaba servos makes me a believer and not disappoint me like the 225 did.

BTW... Any of you Futaba boys have any comments on the new Futaba S3115?
I bought this one for throttle on AMA 428 Q500 and like to know if there's any known issue and will it hold up to vibration.

JB - Take it for what it's worth, but I would recommend the JR MN48 Mini over the 225 any days of the week due to good centering. But only for Sport quickie and not 428 Q500. Hope this helps!

garys

I haven't gotten any 3115 servos, but it's basically a replacement to the 3101 which I had used for quite a while on throttle and fuel shutoff with no issues, so it s hould be fine. I used to use 3102's for V-tail and Q40 rudder, but have since switched to 9650's and 3150's for those (may also put 3150's on the tail of my next NemeQ's), and I've found myself with a bunch of 3102's, so I've been using them for throttle and shutoff.

diggs_74

I've tried a couple 3115's on the throttle for 424 and not had any issues so far.. I'm going to try them for a shut off in Q40 to see how they hold up..

scausey

My Feedback: (2)

Gary,

When you use the S3150 servos in your Q500 .... what battery voltage do you use ... 4.8 or 6.0v ????? I have always used the 6v for more power .... Like Capt. Kirk says .... " We need more power Scotty"

Any do you use them in any of your Q40's ????

Thanks for info ..

Scott

garys

Scott,

I haven't yet used the 3150's in Q500, although I'm pretty sure Gino DelPonte has (not sure what b. The only planes I've had them in so far are on rudder of FAI and Q40. I've been using 4.8V NiMh's exclusively so far. If you're using 6V packs, I'd either use a regulator with the 3150's or try the 3155's (not as much torque, but faster), which Futaba's literature says are ok with 6V packs. I looked into going to LiPos with a regulator, but haven't decided to go that direction yet as the NiMh's have been working for me.

garys

I talked to Mike DelPonte today. He said that Gino's been using 3150's on the tail of his Q500's with 4.8V, 700NiMh battery packs, and they've been great. He's also going to be using them on his new Jerry Small "Swee Vee" Q40 V-tail.

luv to race

My Feedback: (1)

Yo G.... can you PM me Mike's contact info, please. email or phone number. thanks

wc

JEREMYB

My Feedback: (1)

Well I think I found a servo that will work perfect.. What do you guys think about this.. http://www.servocity.com/html/hs-524...ital_mini.html it looks like its simular to the DS3421, but have the price. Its also faster and will handle more touuqe..


Thanks again,, I know I'm asking alot of questions.. I just want to get a good set up..


JEREMY

djlyon

It's the digital version of the 225. Most of my racers have that servo. It's a good precise servo. Much better than the 225. Just don't let them stall. Like stall right at the end of travel because of control binding. They self destruct very quickly when that happens and they fail without smoke or warning. When I first suggested the 225 for the Scat Cat I assumed you weren't planning on racing it above the 424 level. The 225 s will serve you well at that level and cost a lot less. The 5245s come with only metal gears but the nylon gears for the 225 will work in it. Some guys replace the metal gears with the nylon gears after the metal gears wear out.

Denis

daven

My Feedback: (1)

Thankfully, there are a lot of good servos out there for racing, no matter what brand you like and most work just fine.

I've tried just about all of them and to me, the best value to quality servo I use is the futaba 9650. Never a failure, nylon gears, and one of the most economical digital minis available..

JEREMYB

My Feedback: (1)

Where do you find these props.. I ordered a 10 x7, but I can't find any of the others.. What does the N stand for? By the way again these are going to go on a OS AX 46

THANKS
JB

djlyon

http://www.apcprop.com/

This where they are made and where you can buy them. With an on-line search you can find many other places you can buy them. N stands for narrow.

Denis

JEREMYB

My Feedback: (1)

Thanks, I never been on that site.. Looks like a good place to get my props.. Allways in stock


JB

hbutler

Hello djlyon

Can you elaborate more on what you mean by "stall". I've just lost a 225 and a 5245 while I was doing a travel adjustment. I suspect what you are describing as a stall occurred. Yes you are right the 5245 when first with no indication that it was burning out. So much so that I just figured that I got some CA in the servo some how.(I just had harden balsa in the area with a lot of CA) I then moved on to the 225 and started to do the adjustment and that guy went up in a puff of smoke... In both I was toying with the travel adjustment.

So two questions...

1. Is there a servo with the same dimensions that is less susceptible to burning out when stalling? Or is this something that is all servos are likely to do? This is my first mini servo; I usually use standards.
2. What is the best way to set your travel adjustment without burning up these mini's

djlyon

Yup your servos got killed by stall. I've killed 2 225s with stall. They were both killed by a receiver that would drive one elevator to limit when I would collapse my antenna after landing and the receiver would loose signal. The circuit board wiring burned up. After that I left the antenna up until the receiver was turned off. I killed 2 5245s one plane (ailerons). I killed 2 of them because I'm a slow learner. The ailerons were on a new composite wing with a very different airfoil that we were testing. The ailerons were very stiff close to the limit of travel I wanted on high rates. The servo would drive the surface to the limit of travel I wanted and not make any noise so I thought all was OK[:@]. It wasn't. The back force from the aileron kept the servo driving in a stalled condition. It only took a few seconds for a component on the board to fail. No smoke no burned wiring.
Now off course I make sure the surface moves freely well beyond the travel limit I want.

I believe there is a Futaba digital with very close to the same footprint but I don't know which one. I've never heard of any other servo dieing like this but I don't really know.

As I said just make sure you have plenty of free movement past where you want your travel limits. It really doesn't take much to stall one of these little servos but most buzz at you if stalled. The 5245s don't.

Denis