RE: The Snaker
 

craig all that looks great there will be a large trash bag at the start line this year for you and I heheh your planes are to pretty to race ;)

RE: The Snaker
 

Dino, bring your own Hefty bags, I plan to fly ABOVE the pylons, not through them again. As far as our midair, you better just fly higher this year:D Two planes in two heats my first race back was painfull. I figure if I stock up now, maybe I can make it through the season

Here are some pics of my Snaker almost finished. Went together well overall. The minor issues mentioned earlier in the thread were easily overcome

RE: The Snaker
 

Dino, your Hurrikane is all framad up too. All that is left is wingtips and ailerons. I'll bring it too the meeting for you in a couple of weeks. Definitely getting sick of buildin Quickees!!!

Please bring my DA headers if they show up

RE: The Snaker
 

that plane is way to green to go fast, Its GREENIE GREAT and you will turn 1.19s all day long i bet call you later

RE: The Snaker
 

Never to green to go fast :)

Things have slowed here, but I did get the tail glued and shaped, and added the torque rods. I normally buzz tail halves through my band saw with the table tilted to get the proper angle, but didn't have one here. Followed Dan's Hurrikane instructions off the website and it worked great. Using the angle fixtures to bend the perfect angle on the torque rods worked like a charm as well. Just wish I hadn't bent two left elevator torque rods, had to redo one.

RE: The Snaker
 

kinda like gluing on fuse doublers and making two left sides...

RE: The Snaker
 

thats easy fizz, just buy another kit and do two right sides :)

RE: The Snaker
 

FYI,

The second batch of Snaker kits are being produced. Sig has recently gotten a new shipment of wood and these kits should be MUCH better.

I made the following changes per everyone's suggestions.

1. Dimensionally, the bottom sheeting plus the rear triangle plus the front light ply is correct. I am confused at how this ended up so short on Dave's. I didn't make any change to the bottom sheeting. I added approximately .05" to each side of the rear triangle.
2. I have not changed the soft ply issue with regards to blind nuts. I need to do something different here. Still an issue, but I don't have a solution yet.
3. Rear wing bolt hold down block, had the notch opened up to accept torque rods.
4. Made the rear most bulkhead out of 1/16" ply, and added some 1/16" thick parts for increasing the thickness of each of the 3/16" parts, these can be glued to the inside and provides additional thread area when tapped. I don't feel they are required, however, if you want to use them you now have the option.
5. Made a lightening hole in the 1/64th doubler, in an attempt to prevent the cracking caused by the sharp transition at the TE former.

Kits should be shipped the middle to end of next week.

If you could as you build these please let me know if there are any additional issues or any new ones as a result of the changes.

Thanks,

Dan Kane

RE: The Snaker
 

Thanks Dan!

RE: The Snaker
 

Thanks Dan!

Carole was going to send me a new fuse side and doubler to repalce my broken one....any chance you could have her send me a pair so that they are matching??? It sounds like the rest of my parts will still be useable. I'll get it together right away and let you know how it goes. Thanks, Criag Korsen

RE: The Snaker
 

has anyone tried spraying some water from a spray bottle on the outside of the fuselage sides to prevent the cracking at the rear wing holdown former???

RE: The Snaker
 

try straight ammonia, its quicker;)

RE: The Snaker
 

Mine didn't crack but I build in a fixture so things get a more gentle clamp action. I also use gorrila glue for formers.
Prelim comments are that the laser cutting is much looser than what I have been used to and in comparison to the Seeker.
The aft former and doublers are a great addition but the former disintegrated even with the doubler on the former with light pressure when I put it all in the jig. I'm going to remake one out of stiffer wood.

Overall I like it so far.;)

RE: The Snaker
 

OOps I spoke too soon. I commented above because I didn't hear anything pop when I glued it togeather but when I took it out of the jig I noticed this.
I don't think it will cause me any problems after I wick some thin CA and glass over it, but thought Dan and Dave should see what it looks like.;)

RE: The Snaker
 

Thats one hell of a jig Vic, very nice work.

The slight crack is similar to what I saw. Hopefully the new 1/64 lite ply with lightning holes will reduce the stress riser in that area.

Thanks for the feedback.

RE: The Snaker
 

Thanks Dave, It makes a nice square and straight fuse.
You might be right about the relief in the doubler. You can kinda see what I was talking about the with the fit in the pic as well by looking at how much gap the g-glue filled.

Totally not picken on the plane just giving honest feedback cause I know you guys will fix it and continue the tradition of top shelf kits.;)

RE: The Snaker
 

I must have gotten lucky with mine.. It didn't crack at all, must have been a difference in the wood or something..

I might get mine done sometime this winter.. It's still sitting in the shop with the tail on it but no sheeting or anything..

RE: The Snaker
 

finally started on mine today, all the formers are in. everything fit pretty good, former holes were a little loose but not too bad. my fuse didnt crack either might be the humidity level here in the NW. i think i installed the servo tray backwords but not a big deal. i like the firewall setup.

RE: The Snaker
 

Backwards?? or upside down?

I can't imagine it going in backwards, but possibly with the throttle servo on the wrong side.

RE: The Snaker
 

sorry, upside down on oops on my part but not a big oops. wing blocks and landing gear blocks glued in just now, going to round up some 1/8" ply to build the tool for the 1/64 ply that goes in the stab. this is only my second q500 kit so still learning the ropes.

RE: The Snaker
 

Steve, make a trip to Lowe's and get the dremel cut off blade (not the grinding wheel) and put it in your drill press. Lock the quill to where the cut off blade is on CL of your workpiece. I make a magic marker line on mine that I can see while it's spinning to adjust the depth. Then you just run the part around the blade.

It works pretty slick. If your a little concerned use some scrap on the blade to get the CL right. I can take a pic if you need.;)

RE: The Snaker
 

Vicman,

When you put a "cutoff" blade in the drill press is it a metal blade or someother type of "cutoff" blade? The metal blade tends to flex some and come off the center line on the stabalizer that I used this method on.

Thanks,

slim56

RE: The Snaker
 

oh i see for the slot in the stab...ok i will keep that in mind, might just use the tool method just because im not the most cordinated person when it comes to wood working..lol

RE: The Snaker
 

slim56,
the metal blades will flex if you feed too fast, cut too deep in one pass or feed wood in wrong direction. Experiment a little with it and you will find that the metal blade is fast and consistant with practice.....

RE: The Snaker
 

Yep what he said.
Keep in mind we are only going about .18 deep here and into balsa.
I've had them flex too but if I slow down and let the blade do it's thing I don't have a bit of trouble.

The blade should be going wide ***** open on you drill press too.;)