KW_Counter

Which do you prefer to use and why?
Thanks,
KW_Counter

Gray Beard

My Feedback: (-1)

Neither. If the wood is dust free I haven't ever had a problem getting any type of covering to stick well. If for any reason I think I would like the covering to hold better in any area I have a big can of lacquer hair spray I can give the wood a light misting with. Someone here mentioned the hair spray once so I gave it a try and it works great.

TomCrump

I'm with Gray Beard. I used to use Balsarite, but switched to hair spray.

Gray Beard

My Feedback: (-1)

If you use any of it and need to repair or recover then you will regret using anything, it just makes it that much harder to remove. I sand my models then use a brush to remove any dust, then I use compressed air then a tack cloth to get any of the wood dust off the plane. If for any reason the covering doesn't stick to the wood then there is some type of problem with the covering. It almost never happens but I do have the hair spray in the shop just in case. Covering sticks to wood very well and even better to itself, no reason for using anything else on it. Recover jobs sometimes need a bit of help in spots.

KW_Counter

I have trouble keeping it on the cheeks of the engine compartments, WM Mach I & II.
Especially with recovering because there is usually a bit of fuel in the wood.

Which type of hairspray is preferred?

Thanks,
KW_Counter

foodstick

I use sig stix-it to apply ultra light fullscale fabric to large models...

TFF

Stick IT for Koverall, but if it has adhesive on the covering then nothing.

FlyingPilgrim

My Feedback: (26)

I've used both, and prefer Balsarite. Stixit is thicker and while it works, it is easy to get a buildup of it which shows as a little lumpy under the covering. This is not as noticable under 21st Century fabric as it is under high gloss Monokote. I still use Balsarite on hardwood or plywood which does not hold the covering as well as balsa. It is also ideal on "cheeks" like mentioned to hold the covering fast at edges exposed to fuel and exhaust.

Oberst

I use 4 coats of Balsarite Conditioner when I want to stiffen thin balsa and or fuel proof area's that might be exposed to glow fuel. But for tacking down Solartex, Mono,Ultra or China-Kote, I just use a white clean towl and rub down the area that's going to be covered until I don't see any more residue on the towl. Then I know the balsa is clean enough to cover. So far I haven't had a main problem of the covering wanting to come off.

There were times I do hit the edges once or twice a year to make sure she stays down out of precaution. I did once last week have Solartex insignia's on Solartex covering start to come loose after a flight, but that was my fault for not checking it before I flew that day. It was a easy fix, when I got home I just hit it quickly with the trim iron.


Pete

ARUP

I'm a dope fan so use Koverall which has no adhesive. To attach Koverall to structure I use Stix-It but Balsa Rite works, too. The Koverall has no glue so is lighter than the other 'tex' type coverings.

stevenmax50

My Feedback: (1)

I have used both for Koverall and I prefer the Stix-it. 

gene6029

Stix-it with Koverall. I thin elmers white glue 50% w water for use with Monokote.....Gene

JollyPopper

My Feedback: (6)

I wonder if KW Counter was referring to coverings with adhesive on it (MonoKote, UltraCote) or fabric types with no adhesive (Koverall).