rye

My Feedback: (10)

hi
ok i got the engine apart waiting for my new bearings from rc-bearings.com going with the s-s ones, am i going to heat the engine block back up to put them in? and i need new screws for the carb had to cut slot in them to remove they were frozen, what size are they or where can i get new ones thanks rye

Elwood

My Feedback: (2)

Yes, heat it back up to reinstall the bearings.

BarracudaHockey

My Feedback: (11)

You might find this useful....
http://www.raptortechnique.com/enginebearing.htm

Gray Beard

My Feedback: (-1)

Size I forget but you can order the correct screws from Tower. My local hobby shop stocks a lot of the OS parts so I have been lucky to just be able to walk in and buy what I need.

sledge_78

My Feedback: (24)

Rye,

Yes, you will need to heat up the crankcase again to install the bearings. I also place the new bearings in a plastic bag and place them in the freezer overnight. Be prepared to place the rear bearing into the the crancase evenly, otherwise it can become difficult to seat properly. Actually, both berings can be difficult to instal if not started evenly. I use a large socket from my tool box to place around the outside edge of the bearing to evenly tap it into place. Make sure you have a wooden work surface to place the block on while you tap on the bearing. Some slide into place easily others may take a little effort.Wear gloves to protect your hands = the block is hot. After you have the bearings installed place the crankshaft into position and spin it. If the bearings are all seated properly the crankshaft will rotate and spin freely as if riding on air. Any slow turning or difficulty inserting the crankshaft means the bearings are not seated perfectly. Good luck and let us know how you make out.

Gerry

sscherin

My Feedback: (1)

THe carb screws are 3.5x6mm, .6mm pitch

OS part #4D4C2H

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXCF08&P=ML

a JIS screw driver is the key to getting them out without stripping.

I have this set.. They work great on engines, servos, and may other electronics.
http://www.ikaswebshop.com/hojisscset4d.html

BarracudaHockey

My Feedback: (11)

I respectfully disagree with freezing the bearings, just an invitation for moisture and I really doubt it has much effect on steel bearings, heating the aluminum crankcase evenly is more than enough clearance to install engine bearings and trust me, chopper dudes change bearings fairly frequently

Follow the directions in the link I sent you and you wont have any issues.

RC_Fanatic

My Feedback: (1)

Great description. The only thing I have found is that it takes more like half an hour for the engine to heat up so the bearings will drop out.

Gray Beard

My Feedback: (-1)

So much has been written about rebuilding engines and replacing bearings over the years. Freezing the bearings?? It can help, how much I don't have a clue. Moisture?? I use a lot of Marvel Mystery oil so I wouldn't worry about it too much but rust could happen.
I use a pot of boiling water to heat the complete case, crank and yes, even the bearings when I'm taking it apart. When it's time to assemble the engine I still use boiling water to heat the case. When I pull the case out of the water it evaporates instantly. The boiling water heats the case evenly. It's just how I do it, others like the oven and I know some that use a torch. The torch I don't like, it can warp the case but some people swear by it. A lot of ways to do the same thing.

BarracudaHockey

My Feedback: (11)

The biggest thing is to heat the case evenly so that it doesn't get distorted or then you have troubles.

rye

My Feedback: (10)

hi
ok i have my bearing should i coat every thing in oil like 3-1 oil and what can i use to clean off the black carbon on the pistion head and cly head thanks rye

BarracudaHockey

My Feedback: (11)

ATF makes a great and cheap assembly oil

rye

My Feedback: (10)

hi
ok just got out and ran the 2 46 fx's that i put new bearings in, they ran great,now i want to do my satio 56 is the same way ,any thing i need to do for the four stroke motor? thanks rye

Gray Beard

My Feedback: (-1)

Four stroke and two stroke are about the same except for the parts count. Chances are good the cam bearings will be OK unless there is rust in them. Cam bearings almost never require replacing due to wear.

matadco

My Feedback: (1)

This was a bad week end for flying. Have 2 46OS AX engines in two different planes. In the first it is making noise meaning the bearings are about to go and in the second it froze up completely. Checked Tower and price for OS bearings is about $45 per set (front & rear) plus shipping, if Tower has them. However, with bearning number number they can be purchased locally for about $10 a set. I haven't pulled either to get the number off the bearning but would appreciate someone favoring me with the number from each bearning. I'm going to replace front and rear on both engines just as soon as I get the table cleared. In fact I have a third OS46 AX so might as well go ahead and buy the three sets. Seems like it is just a matter of time before the third one goes also. Thanks guys.

rye

My Feedback: (10)

this guy is very good

http://www.rc-bearings.com/catalog/

Gray Beard

My Feedback: (-1)

Almost no one uses Tower for a lot after they have been in the hobby for a little while. Tower is where I send students after I get them past solo. It's a good one stop shopping place but after a short while you will start finding better and cheaper places to buy things. RC Bearing is a good place to shop with good prices. I haven't gotten a bad set of bearings from them. I have had problems with BOCA though, that when I gave RCB a try and haven't looked back.

RC_Fanatic

My Feedback: (1)

He's great!

matadco

My Feedback: (1)

Thanks guys for the info, I am ordering 3 sets of stainless. Now all I have to do is figure out how to get the rear bearing out. I was able to get the front out by heating with my monokote gun and slight tap out it came. However, heating the rearwith the gun and slaping it on the bench, nothing. Going to try to warm it up around the rear bearing with propain torch and see if that works. Of course any instructions would be greatly appreciated. Seems like the older I get the more helpless and dumber I get!

BarracudaHockey

My Feedback: (11)

I'd remove everything and put the case in an oven, then slap it on a 2x4 250 to 275 for 10 minutes is enough.

A torch, if you do it wrong will distort the case.

matadco

My Feedback: (1)

Well I got it out by heating the case with the tourch. Hope I did not damage the case. Kept heating a little until I could knock the bearing out by pounding it on a board. Thanks anyway for the suggestion. May try the oven method when replacing the bearing.

matadco

My Feedback: (1)

I ordered three (3) sets of bearings for the 46AX's yesterday from RC Bearings. They arrived today. I have never had such EXCELLANT service from any mail order. Not only was the service outstanding, the price was under $13.00 per set vs $40+ from Tower and $27 from local bearing supplier. Also postage was only $5.00 and that was air mail. In my opinion you can't beat them.

Gray Beard

My Feedback: (-1)

Either the over or a pot of boiling water. The idea is to always heat the case evenly. Using a torch can distort the case. Not that I haven't used a torch a time or two.